Ok, here's the deal.  Have been gathering 604 parts for quite some time.  Wanting to build an early 604 cause I like the chrome bolt and 3-prong flash hider look.  I have everything I'm going to get for now due to financial constraints, but some parts are not correct for an "early" 604.  i.e.  Round forge instead of square forge upper, mp c barrel instead of mvp 12, and regular buffer instead of Edgewater.   Everything is Colt, but I realize that these 3 parts are not correct for an "early " 604. I hope to find these parts in the future.  Here is my question:  I have two partial fence Nodak lowers, one complete and the other an 80% in the white.  Wanting things to look as accurate and real as possible, which one should I use and what steps in what order should I take to get it looking as real as possible?   Thanks in advance for any input.

rifleman11

Build your rifle on the finish Nodak.  Shoot any enjoy.  

In the meantime, there are guys here who can point you in the right direction regarding how to knock your 80% lower out of the ballpark (I haven't taken that plunge, I'd rather pay and wait for a tax stamp… some guys can afford to do both)… it will not be cheap and you will have to be patient.

Is there a reason why you're going with the 604 rather than the 603? Do you already have a 604 upper?

The XM16E1 has the partial fence, the chrome bcg and the 3 prong flash hider, like you want. As for which lower to use, how accurate do you want to go and do you want to spend a little extra for engraving? If so, go with the 80% and get the retro custom engraving done. Then it's just a matter of anodizing. USAnodizing isn't taking any new clients right now, so unless you can find someone else that can do Colt Gray, you may have to wait a while. Either that or get something like Moly Resin and finish it yourself.

As for me, I'm in the beginning stages of an XM16E1. I have the NDS 80% in the white, but nothing else at the moment.

I guess you need to ask yourself if you want a 604 shooter, or a 604 collectible/shooter.  If you just want the shooter, go with the finished receiver.  However, you seem to want to do it "correctly" with all of the proper parts.  If that is the case, and you have the ability, you should send off your 80% receiver to be engraved with the proper period markings, and then finish it out yourself.  I do not understand why the first poster mentioned tax stamps, as there are no taxes or licenses required to build your own 604 - IF you live in a "free" state.

Yeah, the tax stamp confused me a little there too, unless it's going to be an SBR or select fire, I can't see where a tax stamp comes into play.

As far as 603 vs 604, two reasons:
1. I really like the slickside look, and
2. For some reason about 10 years ago I purchased a few A1 uppers with barrels and hand guards (not sure why, was way before I even thought about retro building) and then ran across them again about a year ago.  Lucky me!   But they were all 604 uppers.  

I'm leaning towards using the 80%. What is the proper order?  Engrave, anodize, and then complete?  Who should I get to do the engraving??  And what is the proper magwell engraving for a 604?

For fux sake...... I stated that hooking up your 80% receiver will be expensive and timely.  The statement about the tax stamp was a general statement.  Of course you don't need a tax stamp to build a semi-auto clone of a 603 or 604 rifle.  I find it more rewarding to put the time and $$$ into a tax stamped receiver than to put cool graphics on a retro clone lower.... the reason why I have not engaged in such an endeavor.  

I thought that this would be a tangible analogy considering you are unwilling to invest in a correct barrel, therefor I would assume that spending excess cash and time on receiver asthetics would be redundant.

Considering time to make your "correct clone" (oxymoron?) lower, you will ship and pay someone to engrave it, then you machine it yourself, and then you ship it out to have it anodized (M16Indiana forgot to mention this part.... which is not cheap nor timely).

Normally, it is engrave, finish, then anodize.  However, if you do it in that order you also have to engrave your name, city, & state onto the receiver as the "manufacturer" so the anodizer can log the receiver into his books.  If you engrave, anodize, and finish - then there is no need to engrave your info, AND nobody has record of your serial number (ie; it will not be, and does not need to be, logged into a dealers books). Then, after you finish it, you can paint the bare metal with Norells or duracoat to match your finish.  Here is a photo of the earliest 604 that I have been able to find:

Attached File

Everyone has their preferences and their own priorities/goals. For me, I love the project. Finishing an 80%, is a lot of fun (work) and is rewarding.

I don't mind any extra cost or extra steps, because when it's all done, I'm the 'manufacturer' of my own firearm. Of course, it's just a small part of the whole project, but I enjoy it.

Finishing an 80% properly, is definitely not any cheaper than buying one pre-finished. But for me, it's just that little bit more of a 'personal investment' in the project. When the rifle is complete and I hand it to my brother or my niece, at the range, they have no clue that the serial number is my date of entry, or (if I can locate my old weapon card), the serial number of the M16A1 that I carried while I was in the Army. But I'll know it and that Colt logo won't mean anything to them, but it will to me, and that's worth a little extra to me.

I don't really have a desire to have an SBR, and I did enough full auto while I was in the Army to satisfy my desire for an operational fun switch. So I have no need/desire for the tax stamp. But like I said, everyone has their own preferences, priorities and goals. There's no wrong way in this hobby, only a lot of different right ways.

I understood what you were trying to say, but it's helpful to note that not everyone can afford a real lower.  For many (most), the choice to spend a couple hundred for an engraved, anodized, 80% lower that looks very close to an original is a very valid alternative to spending $20k on an early registered receiver.
No, the engraving doesn't add any intrinsic value or make the rifle shoot better, but that's not the point of it.

Also note the OP didn't say he was "unwilling to invest in a correct barrel" but that current finances require him to use what he already has (for the time being). 
Half the fun of this hobby is due to how long it takes us to acquire all the correct old parts, but there's no reason he can't put it together with what he's got now and enjoy shooting the thing until he finds the other pieces.

For what it's worth, OP, I'd send the finished Nodak lower off for the "Colt" engraving and call it a day.  Sure, it'll have the Nodak info on the side, but it's out of the way and non-descript. 

This is what I initially stated.  

The initial poster stated he had financial constraints, the reason why he cannot afford some of the original parts needed for a 603/604 clone.  

I also have financial constraints.  I'm in a similar boat when it comes to retro builds. I unused the tax stamp comparison, because the cost and time necessary to achieve a tax stamp (SBR, silencer) is comparable to hooking up a retro receiver nicely.  I appreciate the work that goes into a really nice period correct lower.  They are sexy as hell. But I would personally seek the correct parts before going that route, as it is ultimately the better investment in the long run, and the correct parts are more sexy to me than altering a non-original part to look original, if that makes any sense.  

I don't consider paint a viable option for finishing as another posted suggested… it seems silly to me….  after jumping through all the hoops to find/wait for a Nodak receiver, send it off for engraving, and then finishing the machine work…. and then paint it?!  Finish it off and do it right with anodization.  

So just to reiterate, removing the tax stamp comment, as it seems that I confused people, build the rifle with the finished receiver.  Shoot it and enjoy it.  In the meantime, attack the 80% receiver if you like… just understand it will take time and it will not be cheap, and this may be something to consider as the OP originally stated that he has financially constraints.

I agree, anodizing is the best option. That's why I said that he'd either have to find someone to do the Colt Gray or wait a while but Moly Resin would be an option if he doesn't want to wait or can't find someone to anodize it. I certainly wouldn't look down upon someone's build because they used something like Moly Resin. What may seem silly to you, may be the best option for someone else. As I said before, there are no 'wrong' answers, only a lot of different 'right' answers. In a perfect world, a true lower wouldn't require a tax stamp and $20,000.00, but it's far from a perfect world.

So, since US Anodizing isn't taking any additional work for at least the next 6 months (possibly longer), what other option is there for anodizing? Who else can do Colt Gray properly so that it's a match?

If you sent an original Colt receiver, with the Colt name and address on it, they would enter that info, right?

So what's to stop you from making a fake Colt receiver from an 80% lower and putting Colt's name and address on it and passing it off as an original to be anodized?

Presumably this violates some law?

Steve

I appreciate everyone's input on this.  I think I've decided that I'm gonna go ahead and do things the correct way.  I will get the 80% engraved, then wait til Victor can do the anodizing.  If I complete the upper after the anodizing and maybe use Norrell's on the inside after it is completed, will it look ok??   I have never used Norrell's.  
I guess I was getting antsy to get it all done.  I think I knew in the back of my mind what I should do.  Just hard to wait, I guess, when it's this close to getting done.  In the meantime,  I will also continue to keep my eye out for a square forge, an MVP 12, and an Edgewater and hope I can scrounge up funds if I come across them.

That's how I'd do it, (and am doing it for my XM16E1), but I love being that involved in my projects. If I had the ability to take 0% forgings and turn them into a rifle, I'd do it. For some, they just want the finished product (like one of my brothers), for me, I want my fingerprints on as many aspects as is reasonable for me to do. If I thought I could do the anodizing myself, I would. If I had the money for a CNC machine, I'd engrave it myself (and I have looked into that possibility lol).

When you get started, post pictures, I'll be interested in following your progress.

I've personally been down a similar route as you OP and decided it was worth it to take my time to ultimately end up with something I'd truly be happy with. Currently building 2 A1s, a Colt and an H&R. The H&R is currently getting shelved temporarily until some more funds become available as paying for college currently takes priority. However my Colt build is nearing the finish line. Going slow has allowed me to definitely save money as well as I've gotten in on a lot of deals thanks to the great guys here in the retro section. Actually just received a set of "great" condition handguards I scored for $20 thanks to a member here. Soon I'll be sending out some receivers to be anodized in gray.

So far my costs have been $35 for the 80% lower. Got it so cheap cause I picked it up in person from Tactical Machining. $140 for the engraving and reprofiling services thanks to Braceman. And next up $85 for anodizing from a member here. Now this doesn't factor in cost of tooling for finishing your 80% lower. I'm planning on doing quite a few other 80% lowers in the future so it was worth it for me to purchase a nice quality jig for milling. I ended up going with the 5D Tactical jig as after looking at the other options it fit the bill best. Jig with their specialty endmill and bits ran me $250. This doesn't factor in additionally needed tools such as a trim router and drill press or hand drill which I already had. So let's say $260 for all the necessary work to have a clone lower. This of course doesn't factor in shipping or the tooling cost.

Hope this gives you an idea of what you're in for OP.

My progress so far minus small parts and handguards which are sitting in a parts bin.