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Posted: 10/6/2016 4:49:27 PM EDT
Hello,

I'm working on a dedicated 22lr build that will be a total mutt (not really a copy of clone of anything).
It will have a 16" barrel with rifle length handguards, so I don't really want to put a regular carbine stock on it, but, want to do something different than the usual type D or E fixed stocks.I love the look of the 607 stock, but, this build really doesn't warrant the cost of a full blown replica.

I remember hearing about someone making 607 stock replicas using the airsoft parts, but, can't seem to locate anything about it either through the archive search or google.
Anybody have any experience with the airsoft stocks?

Another idea that keeps running through my head is to make a fixed stock by cutting the back end off of a type E, fabricating some type of butt plate (possibly sectioning the trapdoor butt plate), making a strut tube, and attaching it to a rifle length buffer tube.

Anyone ever make a fixed 607 style stock?

Like I said, this build will be a complete mutt, mixing up several different retro influences, so I'm not worried about having a spot on 607 replica stock. Just want something that vaguely looks 607-ish.
Link Posted: 10/6/2016 5:35:01 PM EDT
[#1]
May I suggest the short tactical rifle stock at Brownells. Same length as car15 stock when retracted.
Link Posted: 10/6/2016 6:16:08 PM EDT
[#2]
IIRC someone has welded a rod to the a receiver plate to keep everything aligned and cut off a section of threaded buffer tube to engage the buffer retainer pin while using a rifle length buffer tube.  this was used with a RRA entry stock.  if you need a section of buffer tube w/ threads, lemme know.  i have some demilled sections i can send you for that purpose.
Link Posted: 10/6/2016 6:51:06 PM EDT
[#3]
Link Posted: 10/6/2016 7:00:01 PM EDT
[#4]
Purple head,

I'm aware of the entry length stocks, but, that's really not what I'm looking for.
If I go with the fixed stock idea, I'd like it to be in the extended position. I don't usually wear bulky body armor to the range. I'm not the tacticool type.


BW,

I had thought about using a carbine end plate to hold the strut rod, but, wasn't sure what to do about the buffer retainer pin. I may have to take you up on your offer for the demilled tube.

Instead of the RRA entry stock, I think I'm still going to go with the cut down type E. I'm not overly fond of the shape of those entry stocks (they look like a fat triangle to me) and it would be cheaper to purchase a used type E shell on ebay (I'm going to be painting the furniture anyways, so it doesn't even have to be pretty).



I'm still interested in the idea of adapting an airsoft 607 stock (I know it has been done, just can't find it now).
If anyone has any info on this, or can point me to a webpage/thread about this, please let me know.
Link Posted: 10/6/2016 7:47:53 PM EDT
[#5]
M231 stock



I used a RR entry stock in my mutt "modern 607" and like it ok but prefer a close tight shooting position so the shortness doesn't bother me even though I don't wear armor either.


It would seem that an enterprising person with some skills could make a decent copy of an extended 607 stock with a cut down stock, rifle buffer tube and some tubing and an end plate.
Link Posted: 10/7/2016 10:53:04 AM EDT
[#6]
Airsoft 607 stocks are available as parts if that is the way you want to go. For a .22LR I don't see any strength issues, especially for a range gun; you'd be surprised at some of the beating airsoft stuff takes.

I have the entire rifle that it goes to and the only comment I'd have is that sometimes the lower rod unscrews a tad and rattles some. I should give it some thread lock but I've been too lazy.

I don't know what modifications would be required to fit it to a standard receiver, but I can certainly take measurements if needed.



Link Posted: 10/7/2016 11:25:47 AM EDT
[#7]
I used the buffer tube set up off an entry stock. (fits just fine.)
It takes more time to figure it out than to do the conversion.
I did this a while back and  it worked OK, but I needed the lower for another project.
I will do it again some day with the parts I have.
I have the parts in storage to do it again,





If you think you want to do it, buy the stock while you can, also get the entry stock for the buffer tube.

I had it set up to use the 22LR conversion kit.

Good Luck,
Ron
Link Posted: 10/7/2016 11:42:08 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I used the buffer tube set up off an entry stock. (fits just fine.)
It takes more time to figure it out than to do the conversion.
I did this a while back and  it worked OK, but I needed the lower for another project.
I will do it again some day with the parts I have.
I have the parts in storage to do it again,

<a href="http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/captron73/media/001_zpsyrjyp8rq.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/captron73/001_zpsyrjyp8rq.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s1128.photobucket.com/user/captron73/media/002_zpsmqgtzucm.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m483/captron73/002_zpsmqgtzucm.jpg</a>


I had it set up to use the 22LR conversion kit.
If you think you want to do it, buy the stock while you can, also get the entry stock for the buffer tube.

Good Luck,
Ron
View Quote


Awesome! Thank you Ron!

I've been eyeing the stock set on evike for a while now, contemplating this. I may just have to buy the kit now.
What all did you have to do to get it to work? Just replace the buffer, or is there some modifications that are needed to the stock?
Link Posted: 10/7/2016 7:40:14 PM EDT
[#9]


Shorten a type D.
I used an entry RRA style tube, with an A2 spacer.
You will have to shorten the buttplate lengthwise before re attaching with epoxy. I took a slice out the middle.
I hadn't drilled it out for a swivel in this pic.

You could make it a tas shorter if you leave out the spacer.
Link Posted: 10/7/2016 8:55:13 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Airsoft 607 stocks are available as parts if that is the way you want to go. For a .22LR I don't see any strength issues, especially for a range gun; you'd be surprised at some of the beating airsoft stuff takes.

I have the entire rifle that it goes to and the only comment I'd have is that sometimes the lower rod unscrews a tad and rattles some. I should give it some thread lock but I've been too lazy.

I don't know what modifications would be required to fit it to a standard receiver, but I can certainly take measurements if needed.



View Quote


The latch on the airsoft stock has the lock and open positions reversed. The latch is also spring loaded to hold it in the closed position. The centerlines of the buffer tube and guide rod are .050" closer together than the tube hole and the lower hole in the back of a receiver. The hole in the plate that holds the guide rod in position with the airsoft buffer tube is too small to work with a real buffer tube and will have to be enlarged if this set up is used.
The stock fits on a RRA entry stock buffer tube very well. It also doesn't feel thin or cheap and looks like it will work well. I plan on boring a hole in the right location thru the back of the receiver for the guide rod and making a longer rod that will fit up into the receiver and then cross pinning it in place. I won't use the plate that comes with the stock. This will allow the buffer tube to screw in far enough to hold the buffer detent in position.
Link Posted: 10/7/2016 11:53:17 PM EDT
[#11]
if you block off the buffer hole so the .22 bolt assembly can't fall out you don't need a buffer,spring, or retainer.



you could do it any number of ways,filling the tube with something (a piece of wood, or even a rag) is one.


 
Link Posted: 10/8/2016 12:19:11 AM EDT
[#12]
CNCprogrammer,

Thanks for the info.

I picked up one of the stocks from evike, should be here Monday. Still need to get the RRA entry stock buffer tube.
I plan on using a carbine end plate and drilling a hole in it to accept the screw for the lower lock rod. Having to enlarge the hole in the back of the receiver upwards by .050" to clear the screw head for the lock rod shouldn't be a problem, and as long as I don't widen the hole, I should be able to back to a normal stock.

Link Posted: 10/8/2016 12:40:50 AM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
if you block off the buffer hole so the .22 bolt assembly can't fall out you don't need a buffer,spring, or retainer.

you could do it any number of ways,filling the tube with something (a piece of wood, or even a rag) is one.
 
View Quote


I've been thinking of using piece of pvc pipe.
Link Posted: 10/11/2016 9:58:43 AM EDT
[#14]
Stock showed up today. Took it apart and it wasn't quite what I was expecting. I was expecting a cheapened version of the real deal, but, being that this is an airsoft stock, that is an unrealistic expectation.

First off, this thing is heavy. More than likely, this is due to the majority of the pieces being made out of zinc alloy instead of aluminum. But, It should be more than sturdy enough to go on a gun that will be primarily a range toy, 22lr plinker.
Another surprise is that the stock actually has three positions (closed, opened, and half way opened). One more minor difference, the lock rod is not 1/2", but, closer to 7/16" (since it's metric, roughly 11.5mm in diameter)

Here's some pics of the stock, both apart and together to give folks an idea of how it's made.

Here it is, out of the package..Not too bad looking.



The butt plate. Not a bad looking copy, with the exception of the "O" and "L" positions being reversed, as previously mentioned. The lock lever is held in the locked position by a coil spring. What I was not expecting was that the "buffer tube" is also spring loaded so that when you release the lock, the stock springs into the open position. The extra hole at the top of the plate is where the spring guide is screwed into.



Here's a shot of all the parts disassembled. You can see the way the lock rod assembly works. The rod itself has notches in it, that lock into corresponding lugs in the outer locking rod tube.  The bottom bolt on the rear plate screws into the sling swivel base, much the way a type E stock does. You can also see the buffer tube spring and spring guide in the upper part of the pic.



Here's a shot of the inside of the stock body. It was much more hollow than I expected, with the "buffer tube" not fully supported. I don't yet have my entry stock tube, but, on trying it out on a rifle tube, the fit is snug (may have to sand out the inside of the stock to allow it to slide easier).



Here's how all the internals fit together (minus the spring and spring guide that fits behind the buffer tube).




And just for fun, here's a mockup of how it looks on the retro-ish 22lr abomination it will be going onto. It's a mish-mash of retro, prototype, and A2 styles, just to be different.
I'm thinking of coating the upper, lower, and stock hardware in Norrell's Greyish Black flat and painting the handguards, grip, and stock body a coat of Kona brown with some mottled/speckled accents to give it a prototype/601 type look). Still trying to decide on a muzzle device. Can't decide if I want a 608 type of cone flash hider, or a duckbill. The flared/cone FH that's on it is just something I picked up on ebay.

Open;



Closed;




Once the entry stock buffer tube arrives (couldn't find an RRA tube, so I went with the ACE stock entry tube), I'll be able to start working on the conversion.
My plan so far is to use the entry stock tube and a carbine receiver end plate with a hole drilled in it for the screw that holds the lock rod.
IF someone wanted to make a fixed open version, the whole in the top of the end plate (where the spring guide screws into) exactly lines up with the hole in the end of a rifle buffer tube (just needs to be drilled out a little and countersunk for the A1 stock screw) .
Link Posted: 10/11/2016 12:42:54 PM EDT
[#15]
Awesome k-wad!
Cant wait to see what you come up with.
This is very interesting...
Thanks for sharing...
Link Posted: 10/11/2016 12:50:47 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Awesome k-wad!
Cant wait to see what you come up with.
This is very interesting...
Thanks for sharing...
View Quote


Thank you.
I can't wait to see how this one turns out, too.

Link Posted: 10/13/2016 9:13:27 AM EDT
[#17]
Thanks for sharing k-wad. I,m loving this system! Please keep us posted.
Link Posted: 10/13/2016 11:33:40 AM EDT
[#18]
I have been asked about the entry stock and where I got mine.

I ordered mine from "JSE Surplus."

UTG COMPACT TAC FIXED STOCK ASSY BLACK
Complete with A2 Compact Extension Tube, Recoil Spring, Buffer Assembly, Sling Loop Attachment and Screw.

I only used the buffer tube. Several other vendors have the stocks.
You can fab a tube from a regular rifle buffer tube, but this was much easier to do.

Ron





Link Posted: 10/13/2016 12:58:16 PM EDT
[#19]
I picked up an ACE entry length buffer tube from CTD. It was about $26 after shipping.
Should be here tomorrow so I can start the conversion.
Link Posted: 10/13/2016 1:16:33 PM EDT
[#20]
I've been toying with the idea of an "updated" 607 stock - similar simple sturdy 2 position mechanism, but with a tactical entry stock instead of a cut down original.
Link Posted: 10/13/2016 3:36:12 PM EDT
[#21]
This is what I really enjoy about this site.
The flow of ideas, questions, how to, etc.
With the Retro part drying up and the hunt for something else to use in it place, or having to modify parts to make it work.
When I see this kind of out of the box thinking, I just grin.  
Keep it up.
Way to go, THANKS.

RON
Link Posted: 10/15/2016 2:51:49 AM EDT
[#22]
Buffer tube arrived tonight, so I got to work on the stock.
I used a carbine receiver end plate, filed off the locating "nub" that fits in the groove of a regular carbine buffer tube, and marked where the screw hole for the airsoft lock rod needed to go.
The lock rod for the airsoft stock is smaller in diameter and closer center to center with the buffer tube than the real deal.
I had to notch the end of the lock rod so that it would sit flush with the indention in the end plate, which actually worked to my advantage as it helps keep the lock rod from rotating.

All in all, I think it came out pretty good. It's definitely sturdy enough for a 22lr range toy.

End of lock rod after being notched (I also had to shorten it a little so there wouldn't be a gap between the stock and receiver when it's closed)-


End plate attached, ready to assemble-


Here you can see how the lock rod fits into the indention in the end plate-


Open-


Closed-


I'd like to do all the stock hardware (buttplate, lever, lock rod...etc) in Norrell's, but, I'm not sure if heating the parts to 300 degrees for an hour is going to cause any problems as I'm fairly certain that they are zinc alloy.

Link Posted: 10/15/2016 9:39:01 AM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I'd like to do all the stock hardware (buttplate, lever, lock rod...etc) in Norrell's, but, I'm not sure if heating the parts to 300 degrees for an hour is going to cause any problems as I'm fairly certain that they are zinc alloy.

View Quote

http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/scrap-metal-questions-answers/10848-telling-difference-between-zinc-aluminum.html
Link Posted: 10/15/2016 10:15:57 AM EDT
[#24]
Did the 607 G&P stock happen to have a model number listed on the packaging?  I'm trying to track down a source other than Evike.
Link Posted: 10/15/2016 2:36:52 PM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/scrap-metal-questions-answers/10848-telling-difference-between-zinc-aluminum.html
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I'd like to do all the stock hardware (buttplate, lever, lock rod...etc) in Norrell's, but, I'm not sure if heating the parts to 300 degrees for an hour is going to cause any problems as I'm fairly certain that they are zinc alloy.


http://www.scrapmetalforum.com/scrap-metal-questions-answers/10848-telling-difference-between-zinc-aluminum.html


I'm positive that these pieces are some form of ZAMAK or other zinc alloy by the weight. Zinc alloy is a very common material for airsoft parts.
Looking up the melting point for different metals, I think it should survive a coating of Norrell's. Besides, I've seen where someone used it to coat a Hi-Point, and that is about as close to airsoft as a "real" firearm gets! LOL!

Unfortunately, my stock kit came in a clear plastic ziplock bag and the only information on it was a SKU sticker from evike.
I've looked pretty much everywhere for these things and evike is the only place stateside that I've found them. The only other places that carry these are online stores based in Asia.
I've dealt with evike many times, they are GTG. Great customer service too.



Link Posted: 10/15/2016 4:10:11 PM EDT
[#26]
I took a run at the idea a few years ago.



Link Posted: 10/15/2016 8:09:10 PM EDT
[#27]
Kwad is this sturdy enough for 5.56 and a carbine gas system and buffer?
Link Posted: 10/15/2016 9:41:50 PM EDT
[#28]
It pretty sturdy, but, the lock rod assembly is made out of zinc. I think the recoil from a carbine gassed rifle would end up beating up the locking lugs in the lock rod after it was used for a while.

If I were to convert one of these for centerfire, I think I would make a new lock rod assembly for it.  I'm sure one of the many talented machinists here on the forum could make something up for it without too much trouble.
Link Posted: 10/15/2016 9:43:37 PM EDT
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I took a run at the idea a few years ago.

<a href="http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/58Bisc/media/guns/7531A897-7543-4081-8997-267D988DF146_zpsy0b9ix3j.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag132/58Bisc/guns/7531A897-7543-4081-8997-267D988DF146_zpsy0b9ix3j.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/58Bisc/media/guns/14A7BC63-9820-4995-BF86-5BF0AA1EB91F_zpsjpfdlmi2.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag132/58Bisc/guns/14A7BC63-9820-4995-BF86-5BF0AA1EB91F_zpsjpfdlmi2.jpg</a>
View Quote


Did you use a standard carbine buffer tube on that? That's quite ingenious!
What locks the stock in the open position?

Link Posted: 10/15/2016 9:48:22 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Did you use a standard carbine buffer tube on that? That's quite ingenious!
What locks the stock in the open position?

View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I took a run at the idea a few years ago.

<a href="http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/58Bisc/media/guns/7531A897-7543-4081-8997-267D988DF146_zpsy0b9ix3j.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag132/58Bisc/guns/7531A897-7543-4081-8997-267D988DF146_zpsy0b9ix3j.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/58Bisc/media/guns/14A7BC63-9820-4995-BF86-5BF0AA1EB91F_zpsjpfdlmi2.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag132/58Bisc/guns/14A7BC63-9820-4995-BF86-5BF0AA1EB91F_zpsjpfdlmi2.jpg</a>


Did you use a standard carbine buffer tube on that? That's quite ingenious!
What locks the stock in the open position?



I'm curious as well.  Could you use the sling swivel to pull down or push up on the traditional adjustable locking piece?
Link Posted: 10/15/2016 9:51:47 PM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


I'm curious as well.  Could you use the sling swivel to pull down or push up on the traditional adjustable locking piece?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I took a run at the idea a few years ago.

<a href="http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/58Bisc/media/guns/7531A897-7543-4081-8997-267D988DF146_zpsy0b9ix3j.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag132/58Bisc/guns/7531A897-7543-4081-8997-267D988DF146_zpsy0b9ix3j.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/58Bisc/media/guns/14A7BC63-9820-4995-BF86-5BF0AA1EB91F_zpsjpfdlmi2.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1302.photobucket.com/albums/ag132/58Bisc/guns/14A7BC63-9820-4995-BF86-5BF0AA1EB91F_zpsjpfdlmi2.jpg</a>


Did you use a standard carbine buffer tube on that? That's quite ingenious!
What locks the stock in the open position?



I'm curious as well.  Could you use the sling swivel to pull down or push up on the traditional adjustable locking piece?


IIRC that was my project stock that fit on a carbine tube.  5437 used the sling swivel as the spring loaded plunger like on a CAR stock and required pulling down on it to get it to move.
Link Posted: 10/15/2016 10:41:57 PM EDT
[#32]
Here is the link to how I built it. Guts are M4, with a custom braceman set up I mocked up as a working model.

https://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=3&f=123&t=642813
Link Posted: 10/16/2016 8:37:08 AM EDT
[#33]
Looks GREAT Kevin!
Link Posted: 10/16/2016 10:58:46 AM EDT
[#34]
Not to try to get a plug in for boywonder, but isn't boy wonder making a full tilt 607 stock?

I ask because I'm now considering merging one of the airsoft outer bodies with his butplate/latch and a LWRC ultra compact stock buffer tube:

https://www.mdshooters.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122057&stc=1&d=1402765116




LMT has a similar stock as well but I've yet to see one for sale.

It would be helpful to know what the width of the channel is here:


It looks like it could be wide enough for a notch section of a carbine buffer tube to slide into.

Use an offset cam rod so that as the latch rotates on the butstock end plate it displaces one side of the rod more than the other, pulling the locking latch out of the buffer tube notch and allowing the stock to move rearward.

Problem is, I don't have all of the machine shop equipment to make this thing look pretty!
Link Posted: 10/16/2016 11:44:58 AM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Not to try to get a plug in for boywonder, but isn't boy wonder making a full tilt 607 stock?

I ask because I'm now considering merging one of the airsoft outer bodies with his butplate/latch and a LWRC ultra compact stock buffer tube:
https://www.mdshooters.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122057&stc=1&d=1402765116
https://www.mdshooters.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122057&stc=1&d=1402765116

https://s3.amazonaws.com/mgm-content/sites/armslist/uploads/posts/2014/09/28/3545690_01_lwrc_ultra_compact_stock_640.jpg
http://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-06k6y/products/103/images/7558/361_1__02386.1428451616.1280.1280.jpg

LMT has a similar stock as well but I've yet to see one for sale.

It would be helpful to know what the width of the channel is here:
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee450/kdwaddle/22lr%20Dissipator/DSCF7219_zps7g14piyi.jpg

It looks like it could be wide enough for a notch section of a carbine buffer tube to slide into.

Use an offset cam rod so that as the latch rotates on the butstock end plate it displaces one side of the rod more than the other, pulling the locking latch out of the buffer tube notch and allowing the stock to move rearward.

Problem is, I don't have all of the machine shop equipment to make this thing look pretty!
View Quote


don't have the skill to make anything

i had that type D stock that was modified that 5437 finished out but that was a one of a kind project stock i came across.
Link Posted: 10/17/2016 4:20:32 AM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Looks GREAT Kevin!
View Quote


Thanks Eric.

Make sure to post yours up when it's ready.
Link Posted: 10/17/2016 4:28:06 AM EDT
[#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Not to try to get a plug in for boywonder, but isn't boy wonder making a full tilt 607 stock?

I ask because I'm now considering merging one of the airsoft outer bodies with his butplate/latch and a LWRC ultra compact stock buffer tube:

It would be helpful to know what the width of the channel is here:
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee450/kdwaddle/22lr%20Dissipator/DSCF7219_zps7g14piyi.jpg

It looks like it could be wide enough for a notch section of a carbine buffer tube to slide into.

Use an offset cam rod so that as the latch rotates on the butstock end plate it displaces one side of the rod more than the other, pulling the locking latch out of the buffer tube notch and allowing the stock to move rearward.

Problem is, I don't have all of the machine shop equipment to make this thing look pretty!
View Quote


Liv4Nov is the member who is currently making the very accurate 607 stock replica's.

The width of the channel you were asking about is wider then the bottom rail on a carbine buffer tube. I need to get a new battery for my calipers, so unfortunately, I can't give you an accurate measurement. Just by looking at it, I'd say it is almost 1/4 inch wider than the buffer tube rail.
Link Posted: 10/20/2016 5:50:13 PM EDT
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Buffer tube arrived tonight, so I got to work on the stock.
I used a carbine receiver end plate, filed off the locating "nub" that fits in the groove of a regular carbine buffer tube, and marked where the screw hole for the airsoft lock rod needed to go.
The lock rod for the airsoft stock is smaller in diameter and closer center to center with the buffer tube than the real deal.
I had to notch the end of the lock rod so that it would sit flush with the indention in the end plate, which actually worked to my advantage as it helps keep the lock rod from rotating.

All in all, I think it came out pretty good. It's definitely sturdy enough for a 22lr range toy.

End of lock rod after being notched (I also had to shorten it a little so there wouldn't be a gap between the stock and receiver when it's closed)-
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee450/kdwaddle/22lr%20Dissipator/DSCF7259_zpso8ywolrk.jpg

End plate attached, ready to assemble-
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee450/kdwaddle/22lr%20Dissipator/DSCF7270_zpsmqgptidp.jpg

Here you can see how the lock rod fits into the indention in the end plate-
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee450/kdwaddle/22lr%20Dissipator/DSCF7245_zpst7nslsmp.jpg

Open-
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee450/kdwaddle/22lr%20Dissipator/DSCF7240_zpsvkwxoc5v.jpg

Closed-
http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee450/kdwaddle/22lr%20Dissipator/DSCF7241_zpsd6q4puxz.jpg

I'd like to do all the stock hardware (buttplate, lever, lock rod...etc) in Norrell's, but, I'm not sure if heating the parts to 300 degrees for an hour is going to cause any problems as I'm fairly certain that they are zinc alloy.

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From my research, Aluminum melts at approx 1200F, Zinc 700F. I,m gonna give mine a shot at Norrells tomorrow,,,,,wish me luck!
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