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In just a couple of years (or less?) that gun will be C&R eligible. if owned as a C&R it can be transported without having to notify atf.
Just think of antelope hunting or hog blasting in a free state. |
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Wtf man some guys get all the chics and $$$$! Wow i like that.
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Damn I wanna MG! The real deal commando lower is awesome. Congratulations!
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yes! They are the pinnacle of my collection. I implore everyone who is trying to find something uber rare to save every penny, after all cash is king and no matter how big or small ones collection is, there is always a favorite in each!
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Someone needs to start a retro nfa thread. Genuine and reproduction
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Quoted:
Me Too! OK brennon272 gives us the details on that upper. I haven't seen one like that. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: I wanna copy that upper . Me Too! OK brennon272 gives us the details on that upper. I haven't seen one like that. Yes. Lots of details. |
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Been a long time since I saw an upper like that!
Have you shot it and how well does it work? Very nice collection for sure! |
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Looks like a very interesting science project!
- What is the length of the barrel? - How is the HG cap attached to the FSB? |
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Quoted:
The threading begins at the end of the end cap. I am able to hit soda cans at 100yds no problem with iron sights with this setup. <a href="http://s1323.photobucket.com/user/brennon272/media/DSCN3402_zpsiv75hwxz.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/u591/brennon272/DSCN3402_zpsiv75hwxz.jpg</a> View Quote I was way off how does its stay in center? |
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Dam thing has a catalytic converter! LOL.
That is the most awesome thing I have seen in years. I never knew it existed. I have to find one now.. Thank you so KINDLY for sharing that with us. |
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As i alluded to before, you cannot use a pistol length gas tube to make a setup this short function. Even if you can iron out the reliability, the gun will literally eat conventional gas tubes, the erosion is very bad. Essentially what must be done is a blasting chamber created/milled out of steel, this will give the gas a chance to build up pressure to cycle the bolt evenly EVERY time and is much more durable than the conventional stainless tubes. More details and pictures to follow regarding the design and dimensions of the "short shorty" upper.
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Why are the auto sear springs all installed behind the selector? They should be on the front side in the slot.
Wpns Man |
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Quoted:
I have never had a problem with it in the back of the selector but having the sear pins in front of the selector will wear out the actual sear spring because of the constant movement of the selector. Also, having the sear spring in front of the selector will cause too much tension on the contact point of the actually slot of the auto sear pin where training students to dismantle the trigger group, selector, and auto sear itself. Pushing the auto sear pin out with the auto sear spring in the front positing will cause damage to the upper part of the auto sear sear spring it you don't remove the actual selector. View Quote In front of the selector is the correct place for it, behind does not always provide the correct tension to ensure positive operation. The leg of the sear spring sitting in the slot of the selector will not wear it out. Yes, sometimes the sear pins can be rather stiff to remove but, that tension is what prevents it from walking out. If you put the selector in the safe position it makes it easier to remove the pin. They will come out with a little finesse and a light tap. There is no reason to disassemble the sear itself, it only causes unneeded wear. If it needs replacing, they come as an assembly. Ham handed students using brute force can damage anything. No offense but if you're going to teach students, teach them correct assembly. When I see the auto sear spring behind the selector or, the hammer spring under the trigger pin it is a sure sign someone has done unauthorized disassembly of the lower and didn't know how to put it back together correctly. Not trying to be an asshole but, I've been doing this for over three decades so, take it for what its worth, YMMV, etc, etc. I do like the barrel work though, Wpns Man |
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That one lower with the .357 round for scale needs some JBWeld or something. Doesn't look quite right.
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.In MY experience, the "correct" or preferred way provides to much tension when firing different calibers (45, 9mm, etc) and causes unneeded stress, this is my experience only. However i will say that i run my guns hard, as they are primarily designed as tools and I often let friends shoot them (and they never bring 100 rds, they usually bring 1000) so they routinely get shot until the gas tube melts in some cases. If you have access to the ammunition and can put a M16 under significant stress, the current location of my sear actually outlasts the recommended service life prescribed by the army. Remember, when you have students qualifying, they arent doing mag dump after mag dump, and in this scenario any m16 should hold up if its worth its salt regardless of orientation of auto sear spring. When you are really testing any weapon system through hard sustained fire in adverse environments, what works and what doesnt can be determined very quickly.
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Our experiences obviously differ,
I work on high round count weapons which are .mil issued "tools" and have been at this long enough to determine what does and doesn't work. There is no prescribed service life or replacement schedule for the auto sear in any TM. You simply replace it when it becomes unserviceable. While I am all for people being able to perform detailed maintenance on their weapons, there is no reason to routinely remove the auto sear from the lower. Even if the hammer and trigger are removed to clean and lube, the sear can be adequately serviced remaining in the lower. If your students are primarily shooters, my original comments apply and probably account for some of the failures you are seeing. If your system works for you, enjoy. Wpns Man |
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Changing the focus- What type bayonet is that in the first couple pix?
Looks like a K-bar shaped blade and M1 carbine type leather hilt/ handle? Never seen one like that for the M16. thanks. |
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Well that's just plain silly right there. Display piece or working mini?
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The blade is a Rock Island Prototype "Sniper" bayonet. I had a link to some info on it some moons ago I will try and find it again. The mini was at the creek this year.
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Item 4328A: http://www.ljmilitaria.com/geargeneral/weapons__sheaths__holsters__and_etc_.htm
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How did I miss this thread?
That shorty is pretty damn cool. Eagerly awaiting more info on the gas tube. It reminds me of the kind of stuff LaFrance used to do but simpler. You sir have me wanting to do a retro PDW now. |
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Aww com'on brennon272!
Anxiously awaiting more details on that gas tube. |
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I was looking at the pictures that brennon272 posted and got to thinking - - - Heck I think I can sort of make that with some of the stuff in my spare parts bin.
I used a pistol gas system along with a 8 inch barrel. It must be a 8 incher, 7.5 inch won't work. KAK makes a pistol one in their value-line that is only $95.00. https://www.kakindustry.com/ar-15-parts/upper-parts/barrels/5-56-mm/8-0-inch/contract-556-8-inch-pistol-melonite-barrel I have about 200 rounds through it right now without any issues. Used one of my SBR lowers. Started with a H3 buffer, but found that it works fine with a H2. Fun little blaster. Reminds me of some of the strange science projects I saw running around Bragg early on during the GWOT. |
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