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Posted: 6/26/2016 3:05:51 PM EDT
[#1]
Aluma hyde
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Posted: 6/26/2016 3:14:38 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Aluma hyde In the white aluminum needs anodizing, type 3. Or it's too soft Dark park grey ( which happens to be one of the cheaper colors with brownells dealer discount) It's summer. Good painting weather, at least here in ms. Do it outside. If you get cans buy extra nozzles. It dries and ruins them You can do it yourself. And you get to keep the leftover paint for your next retro. 
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Posted: 6/26/2016 3:25:11 PM EDT
[#3]
I did an A1 Style dissipator in Dark Park Gray, turned out really nice.
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Posted: 6/26/2016 3:30:47 PM EDT
[#4]
Why not norrels?
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Posted: 6/26/2016 3:31:29 PM EDT
[#5]
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Posted: 6/26/2016 5:42:32 PM EDT
[#6]
Okay, do I need to take the finish off anything that already has a finish on it?
I have a heat gun (a good heat gun used in bodywork) that I can heat the parts up if I have to. |
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Posted: 6/26/2016 6:07:51 PM EDT
[#7]
I think that upper that you purchased was originally mine, is it a CH M16A1? I remember seeing it for sale on EE. If it is, that is Norrells grayish/black. You can spray over your black anodizing and bare aluminum parts just fine. The bare aluminum should be bead blasted or lightly sanded at least to get good adhesion. Yes the parts need to be heated before spraying. he hotter the parts are the flatter & rougher the resin will lay out and cure. The parts must be as clean as possible of all oil and contaminates. With Norrells you need an airbrush or micro paint sprayer set-up. It's pretty forgiving and lays out real even. The cure time is minimum 1 hour at 300 F, you can go longer and hotter but the gray will start turning greenish, like an old Garand. You can also send your parts to John Norrell Arms for coating.
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Posted: 6/26/2016 6:55:43 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think that upper that you purchased was originally mine, is it a CH M16A1? I remember seeing it for sale on EE. If it is, that is Norrells grayish/black. You can spray over your black anodizing and bare aluminum parts just fine. The bare aluminum should be bead blasted or lightly sanded at least to get good adhesion. Yes the parts need to be heated before spraying. he hotter the parts are the flatter & rougher the resin will lay out and cure. The parts must be as clean as possible of all oil and contaminates. With Norrells you need an airbrush or micro paint sprayer set-up. It's pretty forgiving and lays out real even. The cure time is minimum 1 hour at 300 F, you can go longer and hotter but the gray will start turning greenish, like an old Garand. You can also send your parts to John Norrell Arms for coating. This one does not have any markings on it. I just doubled checked. Also the coating feels like all my other uppers as far as the finish goes. It is from what I can tell the same on the inside of the receiver. I need to check into John Norrell Arms. The one that is grey I would really like to match a lower to it. |
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Posted: 6/26/2016 7:33:35 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This one does not have any markings on it. I just doubled checked. Also the coating feels like all my other uppers as far as the finish goes. It is from what I can tell the same on the inside of the receiver. I need to check into John Norrell Arms. The one that is grey I would really like to match a lower to it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I think that upper that you purchased was originally mine, is it a CH M16A1? I remember seeing it for sale on EE. If it is, that is Norrells grayish/black. You can spray over your black anodizing and bare aluminum parts just fine. The bare aluminum should be bead blasted or lightly sanded at least to get good adhesion. Yes the parts need to be heated before spraying. he hotter the parts are the flatter & rougher the resin will lay out and cure. The parts must be as clean as possible of all oil and contaminates. With Norrells you need an airbrush or micro paint sprayer set-up. It's pretty forgiving and lays out real even. The cure time is minimum 1 hour at 300 F, you can go longer and hotter but the gray will start turning greenish, like an old Garand. You can also send your parts to John Norrell Arms for coating. This one does not have any markings on it. I just doubled checked. Also the coating feels like all my other uppers as far as the finish goes. It is from what I can tell the same on the inside of the receiver. I need to check into John Norrell Arms. The one that is grey I would really like to match a lower to it. If you really want it to match and you are going to use Norrels, when you do your lower, refinish the upper at the same time, just spray it good with brake cleaner and make sure the sights, FA and port door are removed. If it were the original gray anodizing I would not refinish, but since it's already been coated you could do a light re-coat to insure a perfect match. The Norrells is so thin, you could get away with it. It does not build up heavy like spray paint or alumahyde |
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Posted: 6/26/2016 9:15:21 PM EDT
[#10]
For anodizing Victor at US Anodizing is the best , great work. He is in Virginia
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Posted: 6/26/2016 11:30:45 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For anodizing Victor at US Anodizing is the best , great work. He is in Virginia Thank you! I will check into that too. |
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Posted: 6/27/2016 2:47:38 PM EDT
[#12]
I painted my Bushmaster lower in Aluma-hyde 2 dark park gray and it is a close match to Colt gray.
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Posted: 6/27/2016 9:48:04 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I painted my Bushmaster lower in Aluma-hyde 2 dark park gray and it is a close match to Colt gray.http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c366/rickfields/DSCN0950_zps1nxekfn7.jpg That looks great! Did you take the finish off before doing it or just right over the parts? |
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Posted: 6/28/2016 12:36:11 AM EDT
[#14]
If I'm understanding this correctly, you will want to anodize the bare receiver first, then you can match colors using the Norrells.
On aluminum AR receivers, you can get away with using Norrells on small (non-anodized) 'bare' areas, if lightly blasted with fine aluminum oxide media (not BEAD) and de-greased as well as humanly possible (MEK). If the existing anodized piece has Norrells on it, and it's darker than the color you want, I'd give it a very light media blast to remove most of that prior coating, and to roughen the surface slightly. Do not blast thru the existing hard coat anodizing. For those without media blast gear, it's not all that complicated or expensive .... assuming you already have some kind of good air compressor. |
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Posted: 6/28/2016 12:43:46 AM EDT
[#15]
I painted the lower receiver over the existing factory finish, it matches the upper really close that has the Colt gray from the factory.
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Posted: 6/28/2016 1:24:54 AM EDT
[#16]
Can you use Alumahyde or Norrell's over a bare in the white receiver?
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Posted: 6/28/2016 10:11:29 AM EDT
[#17]
Absolutely. It is meant to be a complete firearm finish not just touch up paint.
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Posted: 6/28/2016 1:40:02 PM EDT
[#18]
When it comes to using Norrells on AR receivers, it is meant to be used on one that has been hard coat anodized first.
Doing an entire bare aluminum receiver usually proves problematic, and it doesn't really hold up much better than paint, regardless of prep. If you're wanting a good solid finish that will last, the receiver needs to be anodized, then color match if needed with Norrells. Using Norrells on bare steel works fine, but on bare AR receivers, it just doesn't work well. Norrells was never intended as a replacement for type III anodizing on aluminum firearms. |
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Posted: 6/28/2016 1:47:33 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When it comes to using Norrells on AR receivers, it is meant to be used on one that has been hard coat anodized first. Using it on a totally bare aluminum receiver usually proves problematic, and it doesn't really hold up much better than paint, regardless of prep. If you're wanting a good solid finish that will last, the receiver needs to be anodized, then color match if needed with Norrells. Using Norrells on bare steel works fine, but on AR receivers, it just doesn't work well. Norrells was never intended as a replacement for type III anodizing on aluminum firearms. Alumahyde II and Cerakote are much better finish for raw AR receivers. I had a couple of finished 80% lowers and stripped uppers cerakoted to match and they are holding up well. The Alumahyde II I finished my A1 style dissipator with is new and has not been put to hard use yet, so I cannot comment on that. |
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Posted: 6/28/2016 1:51:27 PM EDT
[#20]
It says right on the Norrels website that the best surface is blasted aluminum. It mentions nothing about adhering better to an already anodized receiver. I have seen quite a few people on here spray 80% lowers in the white, not sand blasted, and they came out great and held up great too.
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Posted: 6/28/2016 3:21:48 PM EDT
[#21]
Dark park grey here also.
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Posted: 6/28/2016 11:02:15 PM EDT
[#22]
i've had good luck with norrells over a receiver that i blasted the anno off of. i resprayed a lower 3 times last week trying to find a good matching color and finish for a colt upper i was using. it took more work getting the norrells off than the factory type 3 anno.
leaving the factory anno is fine and usually will give you a "smoother" finish but i still lightly blast the surface to give it some tooth for the norrells. |
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Posted: 6/28/2016 11:18:27 PM EDT
[#23]
I need to do some more research on how to really coat the upper that is in "the white' and do it right. A lot of info here to research too and I guess just go for it.
I do not have a sandblaster. I do have a good air-compressor. My dad did body work his whole life so I'm sure that he and I can get these lowers and uppers done. He is now legally blind but with his help I am sure the two us can do it and more. |
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Posted: 6/29/2016 9:03:51 PM EDT
[#24]
Sounds like there are differing opinions here. Lol lol
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Posted: 6/29/2016 9:53:16 PM EDT
[#25]
Is there an appropriate rattle can color that is close??
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Posted: 6/30/2016 12:47:12 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is there an appropriate rattle can color that is close?? Interested as well. |
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Posted: 6/30/2016 5:22:14 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Interested as well. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Is there an appropriate rattle can color that is close?? Interested as well. Rustoleum Automotive Gray Primer is close. Several threads on here in past postings showing color results, etc. I used it a few times. I let it cure by painting and letting it sit 24 hours or so then baking it at 200 for 30 min-hour. seems to hold up fine enough. |
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Posted: 6/30/2016 8:32:32 AM EDT
[#28]
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