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Posted: 5/2/2016 10:38:10 AM EDT
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make sure your check headspace, id dia and the index pin for looseness. I never seen those markings.
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He doesn't think so. He won't actually take possession of them till
Tomorrow |
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I'm wondering H&R or GM possibly. Think if price was right I'd have to leap.
For big coins, probably not personally but would depend on if I wanted to mount FSB's and could find something decent original if actually Colt, H&R or GM stripped pieces. Would make great replacements for worn out originals too using shot out barrel pieces. If I was going to mixmaster price would have to be right. Are they chrome chamber? Chrome lined barrel? Sometimes hard to tell on chrome lined barrel. Is extension chromed like some of the early C MP C Colts? Thanks for sharing. Very cool find. Think Citadel is only stamped with C as far as I know. Good luck! |
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He pics them up tomorrow , so I should get some new pics.
Apparently they were just sitting in a crate For years. He paid 10$ each!!! |
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He pics them up tomorrow , so I should get some new pics. Apparently they were just sitting in a crate For years. He paid 10$ each!!! I hope he got them all. He got two, and I was wrong, he got them for 5$ each .... |
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Weird. Are you sure 1:14?
If those cardboard wraps are original to the barrels and any indication of age, I'd say they are old. Do you/does he have any Colt/USGI M16 barrels with which to compare machining profiles side by side? But hey, for $5 ea, WTF, that's just basically free. ETA, are both identically marked? Are they both marked '3' at the muzzle? |
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The maybe 222 Remington and not 223 barrels. Colt made export guns in 222 Remington for a while to those countries that did not allow their peasants to own military calibers.
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Every (three) 1/14 I've seen was marked 14. Do a chamber cast to see what the caliber is then drill the gas port an FSB.
Or sell me one for $50 |
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It's a longshot but..... isn't there something in TBR V1 about re-testing the 1:14 ballistics again in the late 60's ? maybe these are Test barrels of some sort.
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I thought that too, but that was still before bore's were chromelined View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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It's a longshot but..... isn't there something in TBR V1 about re-testing the 1:14 ballistics again in the late 60's ? maybe these are Test barrels of some sort. I thought that too, but that was still before bore's were chromelined Late '60's is not too far off from standardized chrome bores. It could be plausible that they are test barrels. Testing both 1:14 ballistics and chrome chamber/bore. MP - Magnetic Particle C - Colt T - Test/Trial 3 - Batch # 100% speculation, but that's what comes to mind. ETA: Any indication of where these might have come from, any backstory at all, or just an estate find? |
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Late '60's is not too far off from standardized chrome bores. It could be plausible that they are test barrels. Testing both 1:14 ballistics and chrome chamber/bore. MP - Magnetic Particle C - Colt T - Test/Trial 3 - Batch # 100% speculation, but that's what comes to mind. ETA: Any indication of where these might have come from, any backstory at all, or just an estate find? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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It's a longshot but..... isn't there something in TBR V1 about re-testing the 1:14 ballistics again in the late 60's ? maybe these are Test barrels of some sort. I thought that too, but that was still before bore's were chromelined Late '60's is not too far off from standardized chrome bores. It could be plausible that they are test barrels. Testing both 1:14 ballistics and chrome chamber/bore. MP - Magnetic Particle C - Colt T - Test/Trial 3 - Batch # 100% speculation, but that's what comes to mind. ETA: Any indication of where these might have come from, any backstory at all, or just an estate find? Unfortunately no. Only they had been sitting in a trunk for many years. |
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How does one determine the twist rate if it's not marked? View Quote Shove a cleaning rod through it with a bore brush, and pull it a short distance. Put a piece of tape on the brush, mark it with a pencil line, and then pull it until it's rotated one time. Measure the distance the cleaning rod has moved when it's rotated once and you have the rifling twist. 1 rotation that comes out 14 inches is 1-14" |
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Shove a cleaning rod through it with a bore brush, and pull it a short distance. Put a piece of tape on the brush, mark it with a pencil line, and then pull it until it's rotated one time. Measure the distance the cleaning rod has moved when it's rotated once and you have the rifling twist. 1 rotation that comes out 14 inches is 1-14" View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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How does one determine the twist rate if it's not marked? Shove a cleaning rod through it with a bore brush, and pull it a short distance. Put a piece of tape on the brush, mark it with a pencil line, and then pull it until it's rotated one time. Measure the distance the cleaning rod has moved when it's rotated once and you have the rifling twist. 1 rotation that comes out 14 inches is 1-14" This won't work with most cheap cleaning rods. It needs to be a high quality, preferably ball bearing, cleaning rod for this to work. |
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This won't work with most cheap cleaning rods. It needs to be a high quality, preferably ball bearing, cleaning rod for this to work. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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How does one determine the twist rate if it's not marked? Shove a cleaning rod through it with a bore brush, and pull it a short distance. Put a piece of tape on the brush, mark it with a pencil line, and then pull it until it's rotated one time. Measure the distance the cleaning rod has moved when it's rotated once and you have the rifling twist. 1 rotation that comes out 14 inches is 1-14" This won't work with most cheap cleaning rods. It needs to be a high quality, preferably ball bearing, cleaning rod for this to work. I use a wooden dowel with a couple patches on the end. I can't stand stuffing a steel rod down my barrels. |
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Shove a cleaning rod through it with a bore brush, and pull it a short distance. Put a piece of tape on the brush, mark it with a pencil line, and then pull it until it's rotated one time. Measure the distance the cleaning rod has moved when it's rotated once and you have the rifling twist. 1 rotation that comes out 14 inches is 1-14" View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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How does one determine the twist rate if it's not marked? Shove a cleaning rod through it with a bore brush, and pull it a short distance. Put a piece of tape on the brush, mark it with a pencil line, and then pull it until it's rotated one time. Measure the distance the cleaning rod has moved when it's rotated once and you have the rifling twist. 1 rotation that comes out 14 inches is 1-14" This is exactly how he did it |
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Maybe this is some kind of 22cal training barrel that works
With those air force training kits? |
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Aaawwwww snap. This is goona be my life's mission to figure these out.
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Aaawwwww snap. This is goona be my life's mission to figure these out. Let me know what you find out lol I just picked mine up from the PO box. It was a third he got and has the the taper pin cuts welded up and it looks like the gas port side too. Thing is there is almost zero heat signature from it but just a hair of porosity. The bore and chamber are brand new and both chromed. If there was a gas port ever drilled in it I sure as heck can't see it and I spent a bit looking for it. When I get home I will gauge it, straightness, throat, headspace etc. I need to build a jig to mount the FSB so I can range test this sucker!!! I really want to know what to buid around this?? |
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I haven't found out anything new. Mine is still in the wrap, haven't really made time to investigate it further.
Did you confirm the 1:14 twist rate? |
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Easiest way to check for chrome is from the chamber end. It spreads out from the chamber on the breech face.
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So I got into mine. I did the rod pull and visually compared the bore to my 1/14 & 1/12. I do believe it to be a legit 1/14.
Mine is new minus the welded FSB taper pin holes. All gauges in spec, minus the straightness gauge binds at the FSB local. Mine is Chrome chamber and appears to be chrome bore as well KKid. I still plan to test fire, I may do it from a vise with out a gas system just to see before I waste any time on mounting a FSB. |
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Cool, thanks for confirmation these are probably all the same.
Ive got nothing else definitive. I read back through TBR, and on page 222 when its discussing the 1967 re-test of 1x14 accuracy it mentions the barrels were marked as to the internal twist. I dont know if that specifically means they were marked "12" and "14" or in some other way. At first I suspected these barrels might be from those tests, but I kind of have my doubts to it now. I dont know.... Ill keep trying to figure it out. |
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So Ill post a pic of my markings later, but Id like to compare them. the "T" on mine appears to be two straight stamps and not one T. It looks a lot like the method used on my 601 M1 marked barrel. (Not saying same vintage, just similar method)
The "C" also rolls in like the some off the M4 upper stamps do. It appears to be a different font than the off the shelf letter stamps I've seen. IMO its a unique letter. |
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To test for chrome....use a q-tip and cold blue.... if chrome nothing will happen . If polished steel then it will change colors.
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