User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 8/29/2015 9:49:22 PM EDT
I was reparking a few Olympic cast fsbs for repro 01 barrels, anyone else tried reparking cast parts? They came out looking funny.
The one right hasnt been done yet. I did a batch about 2years ago and they came out way better. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/29/2015 10:10:04 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
I was reparking a few Olympic cast fsbs for repro 01 barrels, anyone else tried reparking cast parts? They came out looking funny. <a href="http://s745.photobucket.com/user/sergio762/media/20150829_202411_zps1daa2qp3.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx96/sergio762/20150829_202411_zps1daa2qp3.jpg</a> The one right hasnt been done yet. I did a batch about 2years ago and they came out way better. What solution, what temperature, what did you use to de-grease? Facts man, facts is what we need in order to help ya man |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/29/2015 10:32:01 PM EDT
[#2]
Hmm, I never had that problem. I wonder what goes?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/29/2015 10:34:48 PM EDT
[#3]
It looks like your solution was too hot, or it's time for some new chemicals.
No sling swivel ears? John Thomas |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/29/2015 10:35:27 PM EDT
[#4]
Right what he said...also is your mix right? Ive had no issues doing them however some come out lighter or darker dependent on the amount of alloy in the metal. I have one that I cant get to go gray to save its life...always turn out a dark black no mater if I use Zink or not manganese
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What solution, what temperature, what did you use to de-grease? Facts man, facts is what we need in order to help ya man Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I was reparking a few Olympic cast fsbs for repro 01 barrels, anyone else tried reparking cast parts? They came out looking funny. <a href="http://s745.photobucket.com/user/sergio762/media/20150829_202411_zps1daa2qp3.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/xx96/sergio762/20150829_202411_zps1daa2qp3.jpg</a> The one right hasnt been done yet. I did a batch about 2years ago and they came out way better. What solution, what temperature, what did you use to de-grease? Facts man, facts is what we need in order to help ya man |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/29/2015 11:02:48 PM EDT
[#5]
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/parkerizing/benchtop-parkerizing-kit-prod22737.aspx
Used this kit solution is old, parts were blasted, not degrased and temp was 195 i think.other parts came out great tho. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/29/2015 11:14:17 PM EDT
[#6]
Did you shake up the soultion to remix the crystals that form after sitting a while? Just a thought...
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/30/2015 2:04:39 AM EDT
[#7]
What kind of container do you all use to perform your parkerizing? |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/30/2015 8:33:02 AM EDT
[#8]
I'd strip the sight bases down (bead blast them), then try parkerizing again at 175 degrees F. If you do that, please let us know how it goes.
If the cooler temp doesn't help, your solution may just be too old. It's not uncommon (even with new solution) to get some color variation among different parts. Once the solution is old, this color difference among parts is compounded. So, I'm not overly surprised to see your barrels look good and the base not take the chemical properly. Also, move the sight bases around in the solution every 30 seconds or so, just turn them and shake them around to prevent that flock from settling and sitting on one place for very long. This can help prevent blotches. John Thomas |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/30/2015 8:40:10 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What kind of container do you all use to perform your parkerizing? Stainless steel container. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/30/2015 8:55:05 AM EDT
[#10]
Some Parts just don't cooperate Castings, MIM, and case hardened parts can difficult at time especially if they are not fresh new parts.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/30/2015 11:03:33 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Some Parts just don't cooperate Castings, MIM, and case hardened parts can difficult at time especially if they are not fresh new parts. .........along with heat treated parts. Take almost any tool steel and heat treat it to the 50's or higher and they resist parkerizing. I would think the problem with cast parts is the potential for impurities to "bleed" out of the porous casting. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/30/2015 11:25:20 AM EDT
[#12]
I will have to try lower temp, the first batch we did came out good.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/31/2015 12:19:30 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stainless steel container. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
What kind of container do you all use to perform your parkerizing? Stainless steel container. I guess I should've been more specific, I was really wondering what stainless steel containers people were finding to use. I am currently fabricating two 48 L x 5"H x 4"W stainless troughs for this purpose, sized to be able to handle barreled actions, and one trough made out of 3.5" dia. x 39" long stainless round tubing with a 2" wide slot cut out to form the opening, this one sized for barrels only. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/31/2015 12:37:25 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I will have to try lower temp, the first batch we did came out good. All the parkerizing I have ever done was at 165 degrees. Never failed to produce good finish if properly prepped. |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/31/2015 11:09:42 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I guess I should've been more specific, I was really wondering what stainless steel containers people were finding to use. I am currently fabricating two 48 L x 5"H x 4"W stainless troughs for this purpose, sized to be able to handle barreled actions, and one trough made out of 3.5" dia. x 39" long stainless round tubing with a 2" wide slot cut out to form the opening, this one sized for barrels only. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
What kind of container do you all use to perform your parkerizing? Stainless steel container. I guess I should've been more specific, I was really wondering what stainless steel containers people were finding to use. I am currently fabricating two 48 L x 5"H x 4"W stainless troughs for this purpose, sized to be able to handle barreled actions, and one trough made out of 3.5" dia. x 39" long stainless round tubing with a 2" wide slot cut out to form the opening, this one sized for barrels only. In a thread on propane pipe burners for parkerizing I added what I had made for a friend. Maybe it can give you a hand. Link |
|
|
|
Posted: 8/31/2015 2:26:27 PM EDT
[#16]
what are you guys using to heat the chemicals? same as like whats posted above? or a electric heater.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/31/2015 3:07:39 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
what are you guys using to heat the chemicals? same as like whats posted above? or a electric heater. I use an old Coleman stove....using reg. gasoline for fuel. Gets hot real fast, better than my gas grill that I used to use. Gas grill is hooked to natural gas, which doesn't get as hat as propane.........so it took about a half hour to get up to temp. Coleman stove gets a tank to temp in about 15 minutes or less. I've read, I believe in Brownells instructions, to use an aluminum plate between the flame and your tank........to get more even heat withing the tank. I have a 1" thick plate to use but it makes the heating time much slower. Haven't really noticed any problems with no plate in use, but I haven't done anything longer than a 10" barrel........thinking that if you did something the full length of your tank that even heat might be more of a concern. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
