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Posted: 12/19/2014 1:11:55 PM EDT
[#1]
Scott,
I've done several along the way. I'm not anodizing at this time, though. So, you'd need to take care of the finish work yourself. If you have it anodized, the old anodizing should be stripped clean (which I can do) and the entire piece re-anodized. John Thomas 
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Posted: 12/19/2014 2:14:32 PM EDT
[#2]
John - I cannot tell you how much I love the finish on that BFPU/BTDT 601 clone. I think it's my favorite build you've done, with the possible exception of the LaFrance.
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Posted: 12/19/2014 4:14:32 PM EDT
[#3]
I did it very carefully with a Dremel tool.
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Posted: 12/19/2014 4:44:20 PM EDT
[#4]
I'd MAYBE try it (and below the ejection port cover) if it wasn't for the round forge in front of the ejection port.
Anyone ever reprofile THAT? There's no way I could do it!  |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 4:56:38 PM EDT
[#5]
I cheated and used an SP1 upper for my 601 reprofile project.
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Posted: 12/19/2014 5:08:53 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd MAYBE try it (and below the ejection port cover) if it wasn't for the round forge in front of the ejection port. Anyone ever reprofile THAT? There's no way I could do it!
I have done a few of those, too. It isn't too bad to do. You just have to take your time. John Thomas |
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Posted: 12/19/2014 8:00:43 PM EDT
[#7]
So John,
Ever mill off a Brunton Bump?? 
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Posted: 12/19/2014 8:02:17 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have done a few of those, too. It isn't too bad to do. You just have to take your time. John Thomas Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I'd MAYBE try it (and below the ejection port cover) if it wasn't for the round forge in front of the ejection port. Anyone ever reprofile THAT? There's no way I could do it! I have done a few of those, too. It isn't too bad to do. You just have to take your time. John Thomas Well of COURSE! I should have known Sir. John! It looks like it would be a royal pain. Got an after picture? (Not to hijack the OP's thread but it's SORT OF the same)
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Posted: 12/19/2014 9:02:01 PM EDT
[#9]
If you do a detailed comparison of an early Square-forged Upper to a later Round-forged Upper, there are many detail differences between them.
But removing the manufacturer's marks (C H in this case), putting the notch below the Ejection Port Door, and "squaring up" the edge in front of the Ejection Port Door does address the most obvious differences. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd MAYBE try it (and below the ejection port cover) if it wasn't for the round forge in front of the ejection port. Anyone ever reprofile THAT? There's no way I could do it!
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Posted: 12/21/2014 1:57:27 PM EDT
[#10]
I've done a couple with a dremel. An xm177e2 and an xm16 e1. Some of the purists frown upon it but it's what I had to build with. With a complete original upper, I wouldnt, but as a stripped upper, go for it.
I have thought about squaring them front at port door, but haven't attempted it. |
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Posted: 12/21/2014 2:37:44 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Got an after picture? (Not to hijack the OP's thread but it's SORT OF the same) The 602 replica on the bottom is an example: John Thomas 
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Posted: 12/21/2014 7:12:47 PM EDT
[#12]
Very Nice!
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Posted: 12/21/2014 7:35:13 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The 602 replica on the bottom is an example: John Thomas http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h53/jntmjt1/SP1%20and%20602/P1410207_zpsfcfd0a4c.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Got an after picture? (Not to hijack the OP's thread but it's SORT OF the same) The 602 replica on the bottom is an example: John Thomas http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h53/jntmjt1/SP1%20and%20602/P1410207_zpsfcfd0a4c.jpg Thanks Mr. T! It looks pretty dayum incredible!
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Posted: 12/21/2014 11:17:36 PM EDT
[#14]
I've done it with an LM marked upper. Used a rubber eraser as a backer for 220 and 400 grit sandpaper. It came out pretty nice.
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