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Posted: 9/11/2012 3:47:10 PM EDT
[#1]
Norrells Moly-Resin makes a type that is air dry. I have used the bake on stuff with great success. I have not personally used the air-dry. If I could bottle John Thomas and market that to every one here, I would be a well-off fellow.
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Posted: 9/11/2012 4:45:32 PM EDT
[#2]
Someone suggested Alumahide to me when I asked about painting A1 furniture. Havent tried it yet tho.
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Posted: 9/11/2012 4:59:38 PM EDT
[#3]
I just use the budget Fusion for plastic. Has been pretty durable. Have let dry in 100 F plus, surface was clean and roughed. I'd think the Alumahyde would be better.
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Posted: 9/11/2012 5:23:54 PM EDT
[#4]
Tag for the outcome , I bought a bastard set off GB with fit & finish issues, really wanted to build a quasi 601 carbine.
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Posted: 9/11/2012 5:28:01 PM EDT
[#5]
I used krylon fusion. Prep the plastic good with scotch brite pad, wipe with alcohol, paint and let it sit for a week before use... You can also make heat shields inside with aluminum duct repair tape.
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Posted: 9/11/2012 8:19:03 PM EDT
[#6]
I also used Krylon Fusin and it sat for over a month without being installed or shot. Once it got hot, it became sticky and had a definite paint "odor". I figured a month of curing time should had been enough (especially in my shop where the temp pretty much stays the same – 75/80 degrees)
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Posted: 9/11/2012 10:17:12 PM EDT
[#7]
Sounds like something went wrong in the process. Bad paint possibly, long shelf life and not shaken enough, don't know! Did a set three yrs ago and still holding up fine and thev have been both very hot and very cold. Even actually get pretty abused. Did clear them after they set up and wet sanded. Do wish I hadn't painted a cracked/repaired C stock looking back. Did strip a mottled set I did in black even longer than 3 yrs ago and stuff was actually pretty hard to strip with Safest Strip. They had been waxed.
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Posted: 9/12/2012 6:54:52 AM EDT
[#8]
I used Rustoleum and have not had any of the issues of which you speak.
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Posted: 9/12/2012 7:40:59 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Someone suggested Alumahide to me when I asked about painting A1 furniture. Havent tried it yet tho. ^This. I've used it on a set of HGs some years ago, and they are PERFECT to this day. YMMV, of course. |
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Posted: 9/12/2012 7:49:33 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
I used Rustoleum and have not had any of the issues of which you speak. Mike - did you use standard Rustoleum? I just checked the can I used last time and it is Krylon Fusion Satin black...it went on smooth and it was a month before I could hit the range with it. I thought that gave it enough time to cure. The finish got soft enough that the foam in my case stuck to the hand guards when I got back home. Talk about ugly 
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Posted: 9/12/2012 8:22:50 AM EDT
[#11]
OP, I did have similar results using a very old can of rubberized bumper paint on a fiberlite stock. Stuff seemed fine cured and all but over time it softened and stuck to my GP sling. Stuff has been fine on metal but didn't like the plastic. I did just paint right over an existing paint job so may have been an unlike material paint thing. Are you sure that stuff hadn't been painted before?
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Posted: 9/12/2012 8:45:17 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
OP, I did have similar results using a very old can of rubberized bumper paint on a fiberlite stock. Stuff seemed fine cured and all but over time it softened and stuck to my GP sling. Stuff has been fine on metal but didn't like the plastic. I did just paint right over an existing paint job so may have been an unlike material paint thing. Are you sure that stuff hadn't been painted before? They were brand new NDS 43's that I lightly sanded/prepped with a fine sanding block. Paint was also new that day from my local Home Depot. I just may leave my new set brown - it does not look bad and gives it personality. Here is a picture of what it looked like before i painted the hand guards.  " target="_blank">
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Posted: 9/12/2012 9:48:54 AM EDT
[#13]
I used plain old rustoleum flat primer, the brown stuff, on one pair. And on some other furniture parts used rustoleum Gloss Espresso Brown. No problems with either finish. Others mention Kona Brown too
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Posted: 9/12/2012 10:34:58 AM EDT
[#14]
I've painted dozens of sets of furniture with Alumahyde. That stuff looks great and is even resistant to bore cleaner. You need to either bake it for a couple of hours (probably not a great idea with handguards) or let it set about a week to cure, though. It looks good in either matte or semi-gloss, depending on the look you want.
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Posted: 9/15/2012 12:45:40 PM EDT
[#15]
I received my new hand guards in the mail today and decided to experiment with Hi temp foil duct tape as a heat shield. It was a standard home store product and surprising easy to work with. I cut to length and pressed into the hand guard. All bubbles pressed right out and the finished product looks pretty good. Not sure how well this will block any heat from the barrel, but it was worth the try.
No paint till I see how the heat shields work, then I think I will go with Alumahyde  " target="_blank">
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Posted: 9/15/2012 3:09:51 PM EDT
[#16]
That is a great heat shield idea, fastswift. Let us know how it works out. That is my kind of engineering!
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Posted: 9/15/2012 4:01:34 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
That is a great heat shield idea, fastswift. Let us know how it works out. That is my kind of engineering! Yes please let us know, been trying to figure out something myself. |
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Posted: 9/15/2012 4:17:55 PM EDT
[#18]
Nice job. Experimentation is key. You will know what works for you and what doesn't. Stuff might work on the heat let us know.
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Posted: 9/15/2012 5:33:48 PM EDT
[#19]
It will be a couple of weeks before I can get to the range and test it out - I used my Kitchen pass last week. My wife has some weird idea that I should take care of house and yard first.
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Posted: 9/15/2012 6:57:01 PM EDT
[#20]
Quoted:
It will be a couple of weeks before I can get to the range and test it out - I used my Kitchen pass last week. My wife has some weird idea that I should take care of house and yard first. That's just not right!!! 
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Posted: 9/15/2012 8:03:23 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Quoted:
It will be a couple of weeks before I can get to the range and test it out - I used my Kitchen pass last week. My wife has some weird idea that I should take care of house and yard first. That's just not right!!! Yes, but she does support my shooting habit and even encourges the kids to go with me. I learned long ago not to shoot trap against her - she uses a old beat up field 870 in 20 GA and smokes me with my Browning Citori. I don't mind the yard and house work... 
I just spent some time looking at temp ratings for foil duct tape and in one test it went a month at a constant 200 degrees before failing. I am hoping my handguards do not get that hot...I just spoke to the aforementioned wife (shes a physics professor) and she says it should work to reflect the heat away and keep the handguards cooler. We will see.... |
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Posted: 9/16/2012 7:10:16 AM EDT
[#22]
Im betting a sheet metal person could bend out a heat shield for those with their eyes closed...Use a high temp epoxy or black rtv silicone (probably better in case of flex) to keep them in place.
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Posted: 9/16/2012 6:42:59 PM EDT
[#23]
The foil tape works well. It is one of the first things I did after Mike showed the thread with a2 shields not fitting. You can double it up towards the upper receiver but leave little air gap creases
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Posted: 9/16/2012 7:12:15 PM EDT
[#24]
I was going to use A2 liners, but I like the tape idea a lot.
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Posted: 9/17/2012 8:12:11 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
I was going to use A2 liners, but I like the tape idea a lot. I tried fitting the A2 liners in but there was no way. |
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Posted: 9/17/2012 2:03:53 PM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I used Rustoleum and have not had any of the issues of which you speak. Mike - did you use standard Rustoleum? I just checked the can I used last time and it is Krylon Fusion Satin black...it went on smooth and it was a month before I could hit the range with it. I thought that gave it enough time to cure. The finish got soft enough that the foam in my case stuck to the hand guards when I got back home. Talk about ugly
"Painters Touch" Kona Brown |
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Posted: 9/18/2012 7:49:43 PM EDT
[#27]
I've used the Alumahyde on several sets of furniture, and it holds up well and seems immune to solvents and oils. The one-week cure needs to be observed, and it's harder than waiting for Christmas.
I've tried Krylon, and even with a week's drying, it is not as solvent/handling resistant as the Alumahyde. Moon |
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Posted: 11/8/2012 1:27:47 PM EDT
[#28]
range update on first post
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