This build has been very enlightening in learning about the M16A1 and it's accessories. Like you, I am amazed the army never applied the lessons learned from WWII in the Pacific in regards to using cotton and chrome lining. I have found a cotton sling that is advertised as an early M16 sling so I ordered it. We will see. As for the charging handle I was hoping to tint it green to more closely match the upper. It did not work but luckily I did not ruin it. You are right I should tried a beat up one first.

The sling I just ordered was $12.95 but with insurance and shipping it going to run $21.95. Ouch.

Coming along very nicely and looks real good. If your budget would allow it I'd recommend buying from Brownells a set of JP yellow reduced power springs and a set of TTI reduced power red springs unless you can afford a better FCG which I'm not seeing one in the photos. You have done an excellent job so far.

On the FCG don't go overboard but a little finesse will go a long ways to increase potential accuracy and for having more fun. I use a trigger pull guage but it isn't necessary. A dab of polishing compound / jewelers rouge on the wear surfaces and work the trigger to get the gritty feeling out. I mix and match springs until I get a 5 lb pull.

Personally I like a Colt M-16 disconnector spring which helps with any creep, a red hammer spring for using a variety of ammo and a yellow on the trigger for reduced pull. When working in the FCG just put your thumb in front of the hammer so it doesn't strike the bolt catch potentially causing damage and pull-reset-pull. .

When you get it where you want it remove all the polishing compound / jewelers rouge residue and put a nice light coat of quality moly lube on the wear surfaces. Too much and it will attract grit. You're just trying to keep it from wearing down the parts. It should easily come out better than something you pay big bucks for in a single stage trigger and you did it yourself without screwing up the hardened parts. If too light switch the springs around. The reds are heavier than the yellows. Got more than one AR use the left over springs in another. Basic FCG tuning 101. There is a lot more one can do but that should be easy enough and last a very long time in a plinker.

Last tip I used a corporation to set up my Brownells account for a little added discount. Great thing you're doing there. I personally prefer the GP cargo strap slings on my carbines and actually use modified padded M-60 slings on my rifles except for show. It's not uncommon for me to do a few miles in some pretty rugged terrain on a walkabout so I go for comfort and weapon accessibility without breaking the bank.

Got my sling finial. The ad was for a 601 or Sp1 sling and dummy me thought it would be an OD sling. Thoughts?

Good adds, Kendo.
So what all do you still need to finish the rifle? Then what do you need to finish the rest of the tribute? Are you trying to replicate what your dad had in the original photo?

I just waiting for Nodak to do a run of A1 lowers to finish my rifle. At this point I have the upper complete and the head space checked. Really fighting the urge not to put it on a lower and take it out to try it. lol

I am lucky when it comes to the web gear my dad has in his picture. he "borrowed" some web gear when he was in that I think he used in Korea. It is pretty close to the type 1956 gear so I could be wrong. I was just missing the mag pouches since I have just about everything else. I have added pieces over the years for my needs of hunting, hiking, and camping, but at its core it was the stuff my dad used. As you can guess I have plans for this stuff.

Cdenmark, no worries on that. Your advice has been very helpful and insightful. To be honest without people giving me advice or helping with the parts this rifle would not happen as easy or as simple.

As for the sling it is a 1959 dated M1 Garand sling, I think I am at least in the ball park this time. lol

Is that a steel mag? Naval jelly is only recommended for parked steel.

Doing something like 028 for 1928. Thanks.

Wow! One year younger than my dad. Not many of those left around. Naval jelly will remove oxidation/clean most anything metal. Will discolor some monkey metals but unfortunately one doesn't know until they try. Seems like the bases on antique hot wheels cars either love it or hate it. A little on a q-tip sure is cheaper and more time effective than the dremel buffer parts in many instances.

This is the first time I have used Navel Jelly so I trying different things. When I tore down the mag the spring had rust on it. So I tried Jelly to remove the rust.

Considering the cost of vintage magazines I figured if I could make a modern mag look like one I could save a little money for now.

Awesome! I was just thinking of your project last night, wondering how it was coming along. Can't wait to see pics! I'll bet you're pretty excited.

Editid fur spelin.

Very nice build. It turned out good.