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Posted: 1/12/2011 4:16:27 PM EDT
[#1]
Apex kit with new barrel
Apex kit with no barrel Or troll the EE, gunbroker, and search google for the bits & pieces... |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 4:25:27 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
I'm looking to start a M16A1 clone build, but have no idea what parts I need or where to look for them, please help What model are you looking to build? Click on model guide and let us know what you want to build.Welcome to retroland. 
http://www.retroblackrifle.com/ |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 4:28:20 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Apex kit with new barrel Apex kit with no barrel Or troll the EE, gunbroker, and search google for the bits & pieces... This^ + NODAK SPUD |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 4:42:31 PM EDT
[#4]
I want to build a 603/M16A1, my dad carried one in Nam and thought it would be cool to have one like he carried
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Posted: 1/12/2011 4:43:48 PM EDT
[#5]
You can also go this route for a barrel that has the FSB mounted already.
http://gunthings.com/ Edit: You will need this lower receiver to go with it to look the best. NDS-16A1 http://nodakspud.com/AR%20Lowers.htm |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 4:48:08 PM EDT
[#6]
Only if I had $600
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Posted: 1/12/2011 4:56:40 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Only if I had $600 How much are you looking to spend? You can always buy a little at a time.Start off with finding an upper. |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 5:04:09 PM EDT
[#8]
the kits + a nodak lower is the easiest way, but if you're on a budget, you could do it in steps.
usually buying the hardest to find items first is best but make a list of parts, keep a eye out (live on) the Equipment Exchange, and be ready to pounce on a deal. lowers and lower parts kit are usually available anytime you want to buy one, but sometimes Nodak runs out,and you have to wait for the next run. the kits won't last forever, though. keep that in mind.plus with the kits you get a lot of genuine Colt parts. either way the journey's a big part of the adventure. |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 5:12:19 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Only if I had $600 How much are you looking to spend? You can always buy a little at a time.Start off with finding an upper. I can spend as much as it takes, just not all at once |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 5:43:15 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Only if I had $600 How much are you looking to spend? You can always buy a little at a time.Start off with finding an upper. I can spend as much as it takes, just not all at once As others have mentioned, you can always hunt for the components piece by piece. For me, it's a lot more fulfilling than buying all (or most) of the correct parts at once. |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 5:48:50 PM EDT
[#11]
Does Nodak offer the 603/M16A1 uppers?
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Posted: 1/12/2011 5:49:19 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
... it's a lot more fulfilling than buying all (or most) of the correct parts at once. Form of Retro-BRF foreplay! 
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Posted: 1/12/2011 5:50:51 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Does Nodak offer the 603/M16A1 uppers? Yes. |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 5:52:55 PM EDT
[#14]
Whats the difference in the A1 and the A2 lowers?
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Posted: 1/12/2011 5:56:20 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Whats the difference in the A1 and the A2 lowers? The areas around the pivot and takedown pins are reinforced on an A2 lower. Looking at side by side pictures, you'll be able to see the differences. |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 5:56:59 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Whats the difference in the A1 and the A2 lowers? Have a look here... towards the bottom. It's easier to see for yourself than trying to understand an explanation. |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 6:04:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Whats the difference in the A1 and the A2 lowers? Have a look here... towards the bottom. It's easier to see for yourself than trying to understand an explanation. Thanks. What parts should I start with? |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 6:09:46 PM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
What parts should I start with? For an A1 build, I'd start with finding a barrel (C MP B, C MP C, C MP CHROME BORE), as they are what's drying up the fastest. I'd then go for the upper (C H or C K marked, but supposedly a no forge code upper could be used for an early A1). Everything after that should be rather easy to come by. Edit for grammar.
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Posted: 1/12/2011 7:05:59 PM EDT
[#19]
Sccop this up.
Buy a Nodak lower. Find a CH/CK or no forge upper. Swap barrel and all parts to small hole upper and assemble the rest. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=119&t=833882 |
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Posted: 1/12/2011 7:38:42 PM EDT
[#20]
Make a list of parts you need & then get whatever is EXACTLY what's on your list in the order you find it. If you get stuff thinking it will be close enough - you'll wind up swapping parts out & next thing you know you're like the rest of us with 27 builds & the first one's not finished.
Seriously, if you can only spend a little along, keep your eyes out & be patient - you'll find everything you need. Patience is the key. |
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Posted: 1/13/2011 8:43:02 AM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Quoted:
What parts should I start with? For an A1 build, I'd start with finding a barrel (C MP B, C MP C, C MP CHROME BORE), as they are what's drying up the fastest. I'd then go for the upper (C H or C K marked, but supposedly a no forge code upper could be used for an early A1). Everything after that should be rather easy to come by. Edit for grammar. ^^^^^+1!^^^^^^ The barrels are getting harder to find, and will be the most expensive single part. CH or CK upper recievers aren't growing on trees either. But a NoDak Spud A1 upper is a fine alternative. It will also match (color-wise) your NDS lower nicely. The CH/CK may or may not. If you want it to look really nice, you'll want to get your slipring, mag button, trigger guard, buffer tube, and charging handle re-finished by USAnodizing. Get a DPMS LRPK and do the "naval jelly" trick on the trigger, bolt stop, pins, etc. Then buy the nicest set of furniture you can find. Any modern BCG will do, as well as modern buffer, spring and tube. Then try to find an A1 ejection port cover in good shape!! Don't forget a set of A1 sights (font and rear). Sling swivels... Are you sure you can't save up/hock something to raise the $600?
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