User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
SC, USA
|
Posted: 9/22/2008 9:05:22 PM EDT
[#1]
Glad the manual got to you quickly. It should help a little with basic function...although it didn't help me with the lifter.
The slide lock is a bear. You are correct, the piece with the tail is for the slide safety guns. Yours should have another piece and another spring to provide the upward tenstion on the slide lock. Here's what I learned from fighting with several slide locks and springs. I'll try and state things generally, so that it will apply to both the push button and slide safety models. Pressure is exerted on the slide lock from two springs. One pushes it up, to engage the bolt, while the hook spring on the slide lock itself holds it down, so the bolt can move. A small pin on the left side of the hammer engages the hooked spring when it is in the uncocked position, in such a way that that spring overpowers the other, lowering the slide lock. When the hammer is cocked, that pin disengages, relieving all tension from the hooked spring, such that the other spring holds the lock up, and the bolt locks. To get it to work, the springs have to be ballanced just so, such that the slide lock raises when the hammer is cocked, and lowers when it is released. It's easy to bugger up a spring or two figuring it out (ask me know I know  ). The key for me was to keep the hooked springs tight up against the bottom of the slide lock, with no play in it. I also has to tweak the tip of the hook slightly to improve engagement with the pin. It was a pain, but once you figure out how it's supposed to work, it's not too bad. Also, check and be sure the slide lock isn't too long. I spent way too long fiddling with one, only to realize that nothing I did to the springs was going to matter, because the part was too long and couldn't engage no matter how much upward pressure was on it. As re: the comment above about not taking one of these guns to war...I agree 100%. I spent hours just getting mine to function in a basically correct manner (have not test fired yet). I hate to think what a dirty, wet environment would do, let along dropping it a few times on the pot metal trigger pack. 
|
|
|
SC, USA
|
Posted: 9/22/2008 9:06:42 PM EDT
[#2]
What model is the retro? I know nothing about shotguns...this 67 project is my first one! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/22/2008 9:08:29 PM EDT
[#3]
Ithaca model 37. All original, including the 8rd capacity. It doesn't even look like it's been taken apart. Shoots great. 
|
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 9/22/2008 9:34:11 PM EDT
[#4]
I've always liked the model 37, especially with the additional capacity. Thanks for sharing your pics. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 9/22/2008 9:46:26 PM EDT
[#5]
Thanks for the advice. I've already purchased all the little spring wires used, now I'm waiting for the new slide lock assembly to arrive...should have it next week. Does the hook spring sit on top of the pin on the side of the hammer or does it hook around it??  |
||
|
|
SC, USA
|
Posted: 9/22/2008 10:15:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Malikovski]
[#6]
If the hammer is cocked, the hook does not touch anything. When you drop the hammer, the hook "catches" the pin. It makes contact with the lower part of the spring (the hook), and that pulls the whole assembly down, allowing the slide to move freely. It's one of those things that's hard to put in writing, but should make sense if you have the parts sitting in front of you. Your picture looks like the hook is close to the right position, but it should actually be directly under the slide stop at the hook end. If you get a new original, it has a little bend it in just past the part that snaps around the pin on the slide stop, so that it's directly under the stop at the hook end. Let me know if that makes sense...I can grab a pic of one set up correctly if not. ETA: Spring position may be different on the push safety parts. What I describe above is for slide safety parts, and looking at your pic, that slide stop is a little different from mine. You'll have to experiment and see what works. |
|
|
|
GA, USA
|
Posted: 9/22/2008 11:45:32 PM EDT
[#7]
Sure to show my ignorance here, but is the slide lock even necessary?
I got tired of messing with it, and every thing seems to dry function Ok without it. Just my observation.... |
|
|
SC, USA
|
Posted: 9/23/2008 12:12:08 AM EDT
[#8]
Without it you can open the action with a shell chambered and drop the hammer on it. I think it would be easy to do that unintentionally. I don't know if it's a safety risk, but I wouldn't want to chance it. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/23/2008 4:46:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ar15guy]
[#9]
Gave it a try and assembled mine without the "old" slide lock assembly and everything functioned fine (actually, it worked better). I agree that it's probably not the safest...but that's what the slide safety is for..kinda like my old Winchester model 1897 shotgun...remember, trigger finger to the side, until you're ready to fire. I don't know if I'll leave it this way...I'll wait till my new slide lock assembly arrives. Thanks for all the input. |
|||
|
|
GA, USA
|
Posted: 9/24/2008 10:50:36 AM EDT
[#10]
Somewhere on the 'net' I came across a post that indicated that Sarco had 77E military butt stocks and recoil pads. Called them ...no go...they did a looong time ago. The red pads with the 'T' voids aint avaliable any where I can find. Ron |
||
|
|
AZ, USA
|
Posted: 9/25/2008 10:14:11 PM EDT
[#11]
Gentlemen:
After over two weeks from placing my bid, my Ithaca 20", 8-shot, 12 ga riot came home last night after work. She was in better shape than her auction pictures implied.....so I was VERY happy. I bought this mainly for two reasons, first, the receiver does not have that fugly duck hunting scene stamping/engraving on it, and the 8-shot version is my favorite. I sold the two I had over 20 some years ago.......DOH! But now I have another one.....WOO-HOO! I've owned a 18", 5-shot Ithaca M37 for about 5 years now, but it has the ugly Duck scene on the receiver. all this talk about retro builds got me to thinking about finishing up my retro build, so here's the plan: The 20" barrel, and 8-shot tube, will be coming off the "plain" receiver. The 18" barrel, and 5-shot tube, will be coming off the "duck scene" receiver. The 20" set up will go on the "duck scene" receiver, and become my new home defense shotgun. The 18" barrel set up will go on the "plain" receiver, and will be my new "retro" riot gun. Both weapons have a parkerized finish, so it's just a matter of swapping parts. The barrel for the 18" is currently at my gunsmith being fitted with a front sight bead, it was missing when I bought it. The 18" version with a bead sight, and a "plain" receiver was used by Navy SEALS in 'Nam, I'm building mine to represent that version. I have a Robinson M96 Recon, because it's as close as I'm ever going to get to owning a Stoner M63, The Robinson, my XM177E2 clone, and now the Ithaca, will be my personal Navy SEAL tribute tri-fecta. Anyway that's the plan. Semper Fi Az Deuce |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/25/2008 11:12:39 PM EDT
[#12]
Nice! We expect PICS!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
LA, USA
|
Posted: 9/26/2008 7:55:46 PM EDT
[#13]
Got my two Numrich 77 stocks today. One has a VERY faint RRAD cartouche. The sling swivels are in usable shape. But man, these are SHORT. Obviously they were cut down for our smaller Asian brothers. I may just end up stripping the stock on the 67 I just bought and staining it a much darker brown.
Also spent about ten minutes digging through a pile of recoil pad cast-offs at a local gunsmith's store. Yeah, I admit I was hoping against hope I'd find an old red one with 'T' vents. No such luck. I may just have to get an old red one and have it sanded to fit and call it a day. Interestingly, while explaining what I was looking for, the gunsmith pulled out an old Sears brand 20gauge pump. The buttpad on it was very similar to what we are looking for: red with angular vents. |
|
|
SC, USA
|
Posted: 9/26/2008 10:42:59 PM EDT
[#14]
Yes, they are short. I'm not tall, so it fits me nicely...like an A1 stock, but maybe even shorter. I'll do a family photo soon and compare the Stevens to an A1 and an XM177E2.
I just refinished the wood foreend on mine. If you want to match the original finish, strip the wood, stain it with a dark stain (I used a "dark walnut" alcohol based stain), and then lightly sand the areas you want "wear". I used 600 grit and held it around the shucker to simulate wear from the areas it would be gripped in use. I got a nice mottled look, so it should work on the stock as well. There are plenty of pics in this thread for a reference on the wear pattern. I received the batch of articles from a fellow FALFiler yesterday, and the first one said the stocks were shortened for exactly that reason you mention--shorter Vietnamese soldiers. This begs the question, were these shotguns primarily given to ARVN rather than issued to US troops? Most the pics I've seen are Americans, but that may be just because those are the pics we have here. I've got a pile of articles to read this weekend, so perhaps I'll learn more. More pics and info to come soon... |
|
|
MO, USA
|
Posted: 9/27/2008 1:51:29 AM EDT
[#15]
I seem to remember reading something to the effect that these shotguns were to have been issued to rural farmers & the like for anti VC militia instead of the ARVN. I think Saigon or other higher ups thought better ("Let's leave the peasants empty handed in the face of communist thug terrorists, they might use those arms against us."  ) & the shotguns mostly remained in the warehouse.
|
|
|
|
SC, USA
|
Posted: 9/27/2008 3:02:47 PM EDT
[#16]
I'd say this thread needs to be revitalized with some PICS:
       This one is basically complete. It still needs a bead sight installed, and I have to decide what to do about the finish. I think this one will stay unparked, so I'll just have to rust the barrel band a bit to match. If I can ever outbid the rest of you on another one with the correct button safety, I'll go all the way with that one and do the parking, too. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2008 3:41:11 PM EDT
[#17]
AWESOME!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2008 4:02:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Toiyabe66]
[#18]
Found a Remington Model 11 at a local shop for $159 today.
Waiting for approval from the VSP (Saturday=slow). OK, here are some pics: The top is the new Remington Model 11. Below that is a Winchester 1897 "Brush Gun" I picked up for $300 few weeks ago. And my beloved Ithaca 37.    I am somewhat unfamiliar with dating Rems, but based on what I see, it was manufactured in 1926 with a factory repair/rebuild in October of 1944. All serial numbers match. |
|
|
|
LA, USA
|
Posted: 9/27/2008 8:57:25 PM EDT
[#19]
Suh-weet! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2008 9:19:42 PM EDT
[#20]
Well that sure turned out nice.
I was out searching pawnshops again today and I came accross a winchester 1897 for $155.00 (plus tax). I have been seeing these in other pawn shops for up $600.00. Not sure if I got a good deal or not, but I like this old shotgun, the blue is worn down to the bare metal on most of the gun (much like the one pictured above). What do these normally go for? Why am I seeing them priced so high around here? I did find a Stevens model 67D (20ga) which had a perfect orange T vent but pad on it. I think I'll go back on monday and get it. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2008 9:32:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Toiyabe66]
[#21]
The cowboy action shooters seem to snatch up the '97s pretty quick. I'd say prices have doubled and tripled around here. I didn't overpay on current prices here in Richmond for mine, as it is in pretty good shape. $155 is a very good price on one. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 9/27/2008 9:50:48 PM EDT
[#22]
Also, in more research into this Model 11, it actually is earlier than I thought.
The SN is 602xx, and the barrel is pre-1921. So it was probably built 1913-15 (approx.) and rebuilt in 1926, and again in 1944. Cool. |
|
|
|
MO, USA
|
Posted: 9/28/2008 10:49:02 PM EDT
[#23]
Malikovski
The shotti looks good 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/29/2008 11:04:56 AM EDT
[Last Edit: weptek911]
[#24]
I bought mine at an old pawn shop. The owner told me it had been on his rack for sale since 1996 !
 (A Savage 67H) |
|
|
|
AZ, USA
|
Posted: 9/29/2008 11:34:37 AM EDT
[#25]
Malikovski:
Gentlemen: I seem to have hit a major/minor snag in my Ithaca M37 barrel swap retro plans, as mentioned in previous posts......DOH! I have been unable to determine how the magazine tubes are held in place, and need to find this out before I put a wrench on it it and screw it up. The internet has been NO help :-( all the M37 disassemby sites - even one showing the military manual, shows the weapon fully disassembled, but in every case the magazne tube is still left in place on the receiver. This leads me to believe that the tube is possibly silver soldered, or brazed, in place and not simply a screw in assembly. If it's screwed in, I can swap barrel assemblies myself, but if its soldered/brazed in place I'll have to send them both off to my gunsmith. So my question is....does anybody know how the magazine tube is affixed to the receiver on a Ithaca M37? Thanks in advance to any replies. On another note: Malikovski, your retro Stevens 77 turned out great! I know a gunshop here in town that has a real one on the wall (not for sale), and except for the parkerized finish, they look identical. The one in the gunshop doesn't have the same front swivel band set up however, but I like the looks of the one you got. It definitely turned out nice. Congratulations. Semper Fi Az Deuce |
|
|
GA, USA
|
Posted: 9/29/2008 4:18:08 PM EDT
[#26]
My parts are coming to gather and I am almost there.
I have another stock coming from Numrich just to get the front sling swivel. The one's that came from Bob's gun shop I returned...... couldnt use them. It's a ways from done but starting to to look better. I'm attempting to post a picture. 
|
|
|
SC, USA
|
Posted: 9/29/2008 4:37:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Malikovski]
[#27]
WHERE DID YOU GET THAT T VENT BUTTPAD???
Looks great. A little oil on that wood and it will be pretty indeed. If you sent parts from Bob's back, where did you get the barrel band, or did you just make one? Re: mine, thanks to all for the kind words. I am really pleased with. The buttplate looks fine to me, but I would really like to find an original buttpad someday...maybe for the next build
|
|
|
GA, USA
|
Posted: 9/29/2008 5:21:01 PM EDT
[#28]
The recoil pad was on the 67E. I had to plug the holes on the usgi butt stock to move the screw holes a tad...still not just right, probably needs a redo. I did make the front band and installed a M1Garand front swivel until the other butt stock comes in. No safety, I removed the thumb slide safety from the trigger guard, did'nt want to cut up the stock. Have a push button safety trigger guard comming in, hope it fits. Have other pictures I'll post later. Thank for looking, Ron |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/1/2008 10:33:28 PM EDT
[#29]
Well..... I found a Stevens 77D 20ga with the much sought after butt pad.
$100.00 from a local pawn shop. Here it is on my NUMRICH stock. Not a perfect fit, but close enough for government work.    Here is the roll mark on the 77D     I think I'll stick a new/replacement butt pad on the 77D and keep looking for a 77E shotgun. 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2008 2:36:27 AM EDT
[#30]
Very good find.
I like it.
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2008 2:48:31 AM EDT
[#31]
I like the look of your setup. Why did you return the swivels to Bobs gun parts?....I have NOT received mine yet. Did I waste some money? Here's some pics of my Springfield 77F after cutting the barrel, M1 Carbine sling, Vietnam era buttstock, etc., etc.   Still looking for a "T-vent" recoil pad. |
||
|
|
GA, USA
|
Posted: 10/2/2008 8:09:02 AM EDT
[#32]
The sling swivels from Bob's were not USGI, and very small. I'm not sure that you could use the M1 carbine sling with them. I found a donor metal part in the garage that I made the front swivel band from, then added a M1 Garand swivel until I got a USGI swivel, had to order another stock to get it. Another question.....were these shotguns originally issued blued or parkerized gray? |
||
|
|
GA, USA
|
Posted: 10/2/2008 9:30:00 AM EDT
[#33]
I have no way to thread the front sight bead on properly.
I'm thinking of drilling a hole that will allow the bead sight to be tapped in with some j/b weld. Any comments? Or just leave the sight off? |
|
|
LA, USA
|
Posted: 10/2/2008 10:44:24 AM EDT
[#34]
skychair, why not just take it to a gunsmith? I can't image having him drill and tap a small hole would cost that much. |
|
|
|
LA, USA
|
Posted: 10/2/2008 10:48:27 AM EDT
[#35]
Malikovski,
Let me see if I have this down regarding sling swivels. You used two from the Numrich stocks. One for the rear swivel and the other you cannibalized to replace the swivel portion of the front band attachment from the other vendor? Or, for the front attachment, did you not use the part at all and fabricate your own like skychair did? |
|
|
GA, USA
|
Posted: 10/2/2008 11:21:06 AM EDT
[#36]
skychair wrote: Here is a better picture of the front sling swivel barrel band I pieced together. The barrel band from Bob's guns looked undersized to me, the connecting screw was very small. This sling has been laying around for a least 10 years, and I almost threw it away many times, but it had just enough dirt, rust stains, and duct tape to upgrade the shotgun. Thanks for looking.  |
|
|
|
SC, USA
|
Posted: 10/2/2008 1:09:36 PM EDT
[#37]
The sling attachments from Bob's were way small. I don't think you'd fit anything wider than 1/2" through there. I have no idea why they were so small. I used the band from Bob's, but replaced the sling attachment itself with an extra from one of the Numrich stocks. I took a close-up of mine as well, one page back in this thread. I would have been easy to fabricate something, but I didn't want to bother with a return. The screw was small, but it fit perfectly through the hole in the military sling attachment, so I used it. Here's a total parts list with sources as far as I know: 1x Stevens/Springfield/Savage 67 or 77 shotgun. Most correct would be with push button safey and ribbed fore end capped front and back. 2x USGI buttstocks from Numrich. One to use and one to steal the sling attachment. 1x Sling attachment set from Bob's Gun Shop, OR fabricate your own barrel band. Either way, you'll need to use the attachment from the spare buttstock (or, again, fabricate your own) 1x Buttplate or buttpad. No known source for the red T-vent pads. I think most people are using whatever happens to be on the donor gun. 1x USGI sling. Someone also asked about finish--the originals were parkerized. Our own 45Bravo does top notch park jobs, if you're looking for a source for that. I'll have a range report eventually, but probably not for at least a couple more weeks. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/2/2008 9:59:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Toiyabe66]
[#38]
This thread is very dangerous.
I picked up a Winchester 12 for $300 today, and won a 67E slug gun off Gunbroker on Tuesday ($124 shipped). The Remington 11 is he first project though. Now I need to sell a Model 94 to fund this. So, to recap: 1) Ithaca 37. 2) Winchester 1897. 3) Remington 11. 4) Winchester Model 12. 5) Savage-Stevens 67E. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2008 8:33:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: weptek911]
[#39]
Treadhead sent me some pics of the shotguns in his armory.
   Thanks Treadhead ! 
|
|
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 10/3/2008 9:09:05 PM EDT
[#40]
Uh-oh, one's green-tagged.
So what's the problem with that one?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2008 10:17:17 PM EDT
[#41]
Tread says that the green tag says "for training use only " |
||
|
|
NC, USA
|
Posted: 10/3/2008 10:47:54 PM EDT
[#42]
Hmm, I guess any time I see a green tag it's a sign something is broken or otherwise unserviceable. Then again, come to think of it, an M-4 that is missing the kill-flash honeycomb filter or a broken battery compartment strap or missing the bikini lens cover technically should be green tagged as well as being broken too...by the regs.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/3/2008 11:19:09 PM EDT
[#43]
LOL! Yep. A brand-spankin' new M-4 with-out it's sling is "Deadlined" as well. The new Army "Sams" system (That we've just started to come to grips with has had some wierd "side-effects" as well). Units aren't able to order ANY Class-9 (Repair) parts with-out it being job-ordered through the FMS shop (A SLING is a class-9 repair part! lol) these days. 'course, things weren't ALL that much better under the ULL's system but holy crap ( ) "Sams" is getting ridiculous!
|
||
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2008 5:38:23 PM EDT
[#44]
Brownell's has a shotgun bead installation kit, just make sure to get the 6x48 thread and not the smaller one.
It comes with the bead, tap, and proper tap drill. Then all you need is a drill press and a calibrated eyeball (to get it top-dead-center)
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2008 6:14:37 PM EDT
[#45]
That's good to know. I think before I had tbe barrel cut, I would try to draw a fine line from the front bead to a center point on top of the receiver and mark where the new bead will go. Just a thought.
|
||
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2008 6:29:01 PM EDT
[#46]
Old police Wingmaster.
 My new retro build A5 . 
|
|
|
|
AZ, USA
|
Posted: 10/5/2008 9:36:08 PM EDT
[#47]
Regarding the list of shotguns used in 'Nam don't forget the Stevens 520-30. There were both riotgun, and trenchgun versions. They were orginally blued when built during WWII, but having undergone at least one rebuild in their life (possibly more), before being sent to Vietnam, they were parkerized. I had a parkerized 520-30 trenchgun with the wrong handguard, off of a Winchester 1300. As I was into WWII stuff at the time I sold it off as it wasn't "correct". Now that I'm into the retro 'Nam stuff, I wish i hadn't done that........DOH! Go figure!
Semper Fi Az Deuce |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2008 9:48:58 PM EDT
[#48]
Where did you get the magazine extension for the A5? I'm looking for one for my Model 11. |
||
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2008 10:04:27 PM EDT
[#49]
Choate made it but they dont make it no more.
|
|||
|
|
|
Posted: 10/5/2008 11:08:27 PM EDT
[#50]
Treadhead, are my eyes deceiving me, or is that really an OD green cotton web sling on the green tagged shotgun?
Amazing there are still any of those antique slings in the system after all these years. |
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
