Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Page AR-15 » AR Pistols
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Page / 3
Link Posted: 3/5/2014 5:15:31 AM EDT
[#1]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



It's a nice piece of equipment that could potentially help, but the OP still needs to drop in a heavier buffer.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Wonder if an LMT enhanced bolt carrier would work here.



It's a nice piece of equipment that could potentially help, but the OP still needs to drop in a heavier buffer.


Yes I checked with my local shop but he didnt have any, he's ordering some though.

Link Posted: 3/5/2014 8:03:59 PM EDT
[#2]
--------------------------------------------------------------
Quoted:
Well Tula is about as crappy as you can go on the ammo quality scale, but if that's what you want to blast with then you might need to make some accommodations for it.
Tula seems to use a relatively fast burning powder, so the velocity out of standard barrels is low, but the pressure at the pistol port position is high, so an adjustable gas block may help.
You may consider a heavy buffer if it's a common issue between several uppers, and it would be cheaper to try than several adjustable gas blocks.
This may alleviate the symptoms, but the cause will still be there.
Another thing to try is to clean your chamber thoroughly, maybe a light polish.  It may not be that extraction is very early, just that it's having a hard time getting the case free from the chamber.





--------------------------------------------------------------






Quoted:
It sounds like the polymer was cooking off combined with a slight timing issue as RDTCU suggested. This issue occurs more commonly in non chrome-lined barrels or barrels with rough and/or tight chambers. Spent cases often need to be tapped out due to the polymer acting as an adhesive. What type of barrel are you using, and do you see any tool marks or rough areas in the chamber?
--------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for the very helpful responses.

First of all I apologize to the OP for the thread jack, but since the issue is related to extraction on Pistol and the OP has sorted his issue, I might as well continue.

I went out for 3 hours today, doing some functionality tests on this 5.56/223 pistol as well as another one I have in 7.62x39. I share the same Lower between the two calibers. Ironically, I have the exact same issue on both. Both can shoot Brass all day long. Both can shoot Wolf Steel Case. Both choke on the TULA (or Herters, same thing). Note that I'm using the same Lower.

Both are having serious issues extracting the Tula - which is left wedged in the chamber after detonation, even on just one round. Previously I mentioned that my supplier for the bolt carrier on this 223 suggested I take the O-ring off. I tried it, it works with everything just fine, don't notice a difference, but didn't solve the Tula problems as previously expected. The casing is so tightly wedged in the chamber that the lip of the casing is ripped off by the extractor, I took a pic of a couple of affected rounds:


What happens with the .223 Upper is that the next round is rammed into the one on the chamber. My cleaning rod has been spending more time popping cartridges out of the chamber than cleaning. (By the way, yes I arrived at the range with thoroughly cleaned and lubed firearms).

On my 7.62x39 however, while the spent TULA casings also get wedged after detonation, the bolt has a solid grip on the casing, but is only able to partially extract it from the chamber. This leaves the BCG jammed, like time stopped, holding on to a spent casing partially wedged in the chamber. It's basically the same problem as the 223, except that the lip of the 7.62x39 is not tearing off. I think its because the 7.62x39 casing is larger, stronger and has more space for the extractor to latch on to.

.




While I use a cleaning rod to poke the stuck cartridge out of the 223, I have to mortar the 762 to clear the jam, and the casing just drops out after.




.














Inspecting the spent 762 casing, I notice that it has a bulge at the bottom. I took a pic:

http://i58.tinypic.com/2aeo7de.png




It's a bit hard to notice the bulge from the picture. I'm not experienced enough to know if this is normal, or whether early extraction is allowing the portion of the casing that has left the chamber more room to expand.

Based upon what I've learned on this thread, I think these all point to over gasing. The extraction process is happening too early and my solution would be to get an adjustable Gas Block for both Uppers -OR- Replace the Buffer with a heavier weighted one. The latter being a cheaper/easier/single fix that addresses the problem on both calibers.




.














There are some people that suggest the polymer coating on these rounds leaves a sticky residue on the chamber after a large number of rounds fired. This does not seem to be the issue with mine, because it happens right off the bat, once I load the Tulas.




.














What do you guys think? Your experienced input is most appreciated.

 






 
Link Posted: 3/5/2014 10:46:21 PM EDT
[#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
--------------------------------------------------------------Quoted:
Well Tula is about as crappy as you can go on the ammo quality scale, but if that's what you want to blast with then you might need to make some accommodations for it.
Tula seems to use a relatively fast burning powder, so the velocity out of standard barrels is low, but the pressure at the pistol port position is high, so an adjustable gas block may help.
You may consider a heavy buffer if it's a common issue between several uppers, and it would be cheaper to try than several adjustable gas blocks.
This may alleviate the symptoms, but the cause will still be there.

Another thing to try is to clean your chamber thoroughly, maybe a light polish.  It may not be that extraction is very early, just that it's having a hard time getting the case free from the chamber.
--------------------------------------------------------------

Quoted:

It sounds like the polymer was cooking off combined with a slight timing issue as RDTCU suggested. This issue occurs more commonly in non chrome-lined barrels or barrels with rough and/or tight chambers. Spent cases often need to be tapped out due to the polymer acting as an adhesive. What type of barrel are you using, and do you see any tool marks or rough areas in the chamber?

--------------------------------------------------------------


Thanks for the very helpful responses.

First of all I apologize to the OP for the thread jack, but since the issue is related to extraction on Pistol and the OP has sorted his issue, I might as well continue.

I went out for 3 hours today, doing some functionality tests on this 5.56/223 pistol as well as another one I have in 7.62x39. I share the same Lower between the two calibers. Ironically, I have the exact same issue on both. Both can shoot Brass all day long. Both can shoot Wolf Steel Case. Both choke on the TULA (or Herters, same thing). Note that I'm using the same Lower.

Both are having serious issues extracting the Tula - which is left wedged in the chamber after detonation, even on just one round. Previously I mentioned that my supplier for the bolt carrier on this 223 suggested I take the O-ring off. I tried it, it works with everything just fine, don't notice a difference, but didn't solve the Tula problems as previously expected. The casing is so tightly wedged in the chamber that the lip of the casing is ripped off by the extractor, I took a pic of a couple of affected rounds:

http://i60.tinypic.com/fp6xj6.png

What happens with the .223 Upper is that the next round is rammed into the one on the chamber. My cleaning rod has been spending more time popping cartridges out of the chamber than cleaning. (By the way, yes I arrived at the range with thoroughly cleaned and lubed firearms).

On my 7.62x39 however, while the spent TULA casings also get wedged after detonation, the bolt has a solid grip on the casing, but is only able to partially extract it from the chamber. This leaves the BCG jammed, like time stopped, holding on to a spent casing partially wedged in the chamber. It's basically the same problem as the 223, except that the lip of the 7.62x39 is not tearing off. I think its because the 7.62x39 casing is larger, stronger and has more space for the extractor to latch on to.
.

While I use a cleaning rod to poke the stuck cartridge out of the 223, I have to mortar the 762 to clear the jam, and the casing just drops out after.
.

Inspecting the spent 762 casing, I notice that it has a bulge at the bottom. I took a pic:

http://i58.tinypic.com/2aeo7de.png


It's a bit hard to notice the bulge from the picture. I'm not experienced enough to know if this is normal, or whether early extraction is allowing the portion of the casing that has left the chamber more room to expand.

Based upon what I've learned on this thread, I think these all point to over gasing. The extraction process is happening too early and my solution would be to get an adjustable Gas Block for both Uppers -OR- Replace the Buffer with a heavier weighted one. The latter being a cheaper/easier/single fix that addresses the problem on both calibers.
.

There are some people that suggest the polymer coating on these rounds leaves a sticky residue on the chamber after a large number of rounds fired. This does not seem to be the issue with mine, because it happens right off the bat, once I load the Tulas.
.

What do you guys think? Your experienced input is most appreciated.

   
View Quote


no problem, and yes I agree this does look like an overgas/ and or/ early extraction issue. And yes easiest and cheapest would be a heavier buffer followed by adjustable gas block and try to lower the gasses.  

Unfortunately I'm not much help on the buldged cases issue but It would seem reasonable that it is due to early extraction while its still pressurized from the blast.
Link Posted: 3/5/2014 11:17:39 PM EDT
[#4]









For a Heavier Buffer, what weight would you suggest? There are various Heavy Weight Buffers out there from 4 to 5 ounces. Also, would a stronger Spring be necessary?







 
Link Posted: 3/6/2014 1:49:42 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Great, now with the carbine buffer you have and if you buy the H3 buffer you can make up any weight buffer in between by taking them apart and swaping out the necessary weights.
View Quote



Buy an H3 and adjust as needed.

I kinda like the CS flatwire spring from Superior Shooting Systems as their concept is pretty solid, or a regular carbine spring.  Not a believer in the extra power reciever ext springs.
Link Posted: 3/6/2014 7:29:21 AM EDT
[#6]








To Lastrites -- I must have missed your earlier post... thanks


By being able to swap weights, would it make sense then, that I purchase a simple mil spec weight buffer and adjust accordingly? I can find mil-spec buffers that are less than half the price of Heavy Buffers. Lastly, I've never taken a Buffer apart, what are my risks?












 
Link Posted: 3/6/2014 9:09:01 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
To Lastrites -- I must have missed your earlier post... thanks

By being able to swap weights, would it make sense then, that I purchase a simple mil spec weight buffer and adjust accordingly? I can find mil-spec buffers that are less than half the price of Heavy Buffers. Lastly, I've never taken a Buffer apart, what are my risks?
View Quote

"Mil spec" weight buffer is an H2

Just need to remove and replace a roll pin, but the problem is that the tungsten weights aren't readily available as replacement parts.

If you already have a typical "Carbine" buffer, if you buy an H3, you can then mix and match parts to make an H or H2.  Since there are already malfunctions at work, I'd guestimate that you need to go to H2 or H3.  Springs do not make any practical difference in slowing the unlocking or opening sequence.
Link Posted: 3/6/2014 3:34:54 PM EDT
[#8]

Gamma762 -- thanks, I couldn't find an H3, but did locate an H2. Will report back.








Link Posted: 3/13/2014 9:11:05 PM EDT
[#9]


I have found and installed a 4.5oz buffer.





I'm glad to report the extraction/stuck cases problem is solved on both 5.56 and 7.62x39 Uppers. I shot about 40-50 rounds through each without a single failure to extract on those Tula and Herter's Steel Cases. Previously, I could hardly get through 3 or 4. It's a happy day.





I thought it might be important to note that on both Uppers, I also have the heavier Full Auto Bolt Carriers. I had not previously mentioned this.





A giant thanks to those who offered great advise and solutions.

















 
Link Posted: 3/19/2014 11:57:06 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History


Well as suspected I experienced another failure... Exactly the same as your image. So it is clear the extractor has enough grip as it also ripped the rim off, and the shell itself was not difficult to remove with the rod tell me that I do indeed ALSO need a Heavier Buffer.

Sounds like "mil-spec" is aka H2 weight? and this worked for you caliAR?

on a side note i've fired many more out of my 7.62 without a single issue. And that was with original BCG from sota and upper from hardened. I love how reliable that thing is! http://i61.tinypic.com/v7fgqa.jpg
Link Posted: 3/20/2014 1:26:02 AM EDT
[#11]

Yup if that's what your casings look like, and you have a stock Buffer, the next best bet would be to install the Heavier Buffer.


This is the one I got from eBay, for $17 shipped, it's a merchant I have gotten plenty of parts from. The title says "Rifle" Buffer, but it's not. The item arrived quickly, I popped it in, and I never saw the failures again, on both Calibers (have shot 300+ rounds since, on both the Pistols):




It's nothing fancy, but it did the job superbly.




Link Posted: 3/20/2014 2:54:46 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Yup if that's what your casings look like, and you have a stock Buffer, the next best bet would be to install the Heavier Buffer.

This is the one I got from eBay, for $17 shipped, it's a merchant I have gotten plenty of parts from. The title says "Rifle" Buffer, but it's not. The item arrived quickly, I popped it in, and I never saw the failures again, on both Calibers (have shot 300+ rounds since, on both the Pistols):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271226120430?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

It's nothing fancy, but it did the job superbly.



View Quote


nice thanks! ill report back
Link Posted: 3/20/2014 5:29:26 PM EDT
[#13]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Yup if that's what your casings look like, and you have a stock Buffer, the next best bet would be to install the Heavier Buffer.

This is the one I got from eBay, for $17 shipped, it's a merchant I have gotten plenty of parts from. The title says "Rifle" Buffer, but it's not. The item arrived quickly, I popped it in, and I never saw the failures again, on both Calibers (have shot 300+ rounds since, on both the Pistols):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271226120430?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

It's nothing fancy, but it did the job superbly.
View Quote

since it's so cheap, is it solid one piece (with lead) or it's filled with tungsten parts (and rattles)?
thanks
Link Posted: 3/21/2014 3:17:23 PM EDT
[#14]


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
since it's so cheap, is it solid one piece (with lead) or it's filled with tungsten parts (and rattles)?


thanks
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:





Quoted:


Yup if that's what your casings look like, and you have a stock Buffer, the next best bet would be to install the Heavier Buffer.





This is the one I got from eBay, for $17 shipped, it's a merchant I have gotten plenty of parts from. The title says "Rifle" Buffer, but it's not. The item arrived quickly, I popped it in, and I never saw the failures again, on both Calibers (have shot 300+ rounds since, on both the Pistols):





http://www.ebay.com/itm/271226120430?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649





It's nothing fancy, but it did the job superbly.





since it's so cheap, is it solid one piece (with lead) or it's filled with tungsten parts (and rattles)?


thanks








On my previous regular Buffer, I definitely heard a rattle from that buffer all the time. I would hear it by just picking up the rifle. On this new one I purchased from the vendor above, I never noticed anything.





So, to be double sure, I picked up the rifle a few minutes ago and gave it a good shake - no rattle from the Buffer. The only thing I hear is some other sounds from the rest of the rifle (mostly from the magazine well area).


To be triple sure, I pulled the buffer out and gave it a shake. There definitely is a light rattle, but once it's on the rifle, you won't even notice it anymore.






Hope that helps.

Link Posted: 3/21/2014 4:54:16 PM EDT
[#15]
An o-ring, that the military only added because it helps a little bit (over time I think?), as already said is not the answer. The weapon should work flawless without adding an o-ring or another weight of buffer.

If it's unreliable, you go from a 3oz buffer to a heavy buffer and it fixes, and it's 100% from then on; it still means you're borderline. Parts will break in and then you're back to cycling too fast? Etc.

Spring stretching weakens the spring, and you will be stretching it again in less and less time.

I'd start considering scrapping the BCG if it's already giving issues like that.

Whose parts are these?
Link Posted: 3/21/2014 4:58:58 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Thanks for all the help everyone! And yes I agree this doesn't sound like an undergas issue to me.

And FYI I'm glad to report that a o-ring under the extractor spring SOLVED THE ISSUE. (So far), I just fired 60 flawless rounds of steel case ammo with 40 of them all in one extended steel mag without any issues!! :):)

Just grabbed one from a hardware store for now to tesf until the full kit comes in. Will probably order a heavier buffer too. I checked mine out and they were all steel inserts totalling 2.9 ounces all together.
View Quote



Lol that's not "solved"

Fix it or scrap the weapon
Link Posted: 3/21/2014 5:02:54 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Well as suspected I experienced another failure... Exactly the same as your image. So it is clear the extractor has enough grip as it also ripped the rim off, and the shell itself was not difficult to remove with the rod tell me that I do indeed ALSO need a Heavier Buffer.

Sounds like "mil-spec" is aka H2 weight? and this worked for you caliAR?

on a side note i've fired many more out of my 7.62 without a single issue. And that was with original BCG from sota and upper from hardened. I love how reliable that thing is! http://i61.tinypic.com/v7fgqa.jpg
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Well as suspected I experienced another failure... Exactly the same as your image. So it is clear the extractor has enough grip as it also ripped the rim off, and the shell itself was not difficult to remove with the rod tell me that I do indeed ALSO need a Heavier Buffer.

Sounds like "mil-spec" is aka H2 weight? and this worked for you caliAR?

on a side note i've fired many more out of my 7.62 without a single issue. And that was with original BCG from sota and upper from hardened. I love how reliable that thing is! http://i61.tinypic.com/v7fgqa.jpg


See? I posted the second time before I even looked at page 3. (couldn't control myself)

You need to get the gas system figured out. Leave the buffer alone.
Link Posted: 3/21/2014 8:25:20 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Do you have ANY experience with a pistol gas system? I'm guessing no.

A 10" barrel with a carbine gas port needs a larger than standard port due to the short dwell.

A 7.5" with a pistol gas port does not.

This from someone who has built several short barrel AR's with zero functional issues.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
well i told him how to fix it , if he doesnt want to do it thats up to him

if you dont like my advice you can give him your own.

shorter barrels need more gas thats been proven


Do you have ANY experience with a pistol gas system? I'm guessing no.

A 10" barrel with a carbine gas port needs a larger than standard port due to the short dwell.

A 7.5" with a pistol gas port does not.

This from someone who has built several short barrel AR's with zero functional issues.


Listen to engineers please...
Bolts speeds are higher in 7.5s... more psi... less dwell... hence why they lose traction on casings during ejection.

Link Posted: 3/21/2014 11:49:54 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
An o-ring, that the military only added because it helps a little bit (over time I think?), as already said is not the answer. The weapon should work flawless without adding an o-ring or another weight of buffer.

If it's unreliable, you go from a 3oz buffer to a heavy buffer and it fixes, and it's 100% from then on; it still means you're borderline. Parts will break in and then you're back to cycling too fast? Etc.

Spring stretching weakens the spring, and you will be stretching it again in less and less time.

I'd start considering scrapping the BCG if it's already giving issues like that.

Whose parts are these?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
An o-ring, that the military only added because it helps a little bit (over time I think?), as already said is not the answer. The weapon should work flawless without adding an o-ring or another weight of buffer.

If it's unreliable, you go from a 3oz buffer to a heavy buffer and it fixes, and it's 100% from then on; it still means you're borderline. Parts will break in and then you're back to cycling too fast? Etc.

Spring stretching weakens the spring, and you will be stretching it again in less and less time.

I'd start considering scrapping the BCG if it's already giving issues like that.

Whose parts are these?


Lol what are you talking about? its a custom "weapon" being put together by a noob. Obviously it's gonna take a little trial and error to see what the correct parts to the build will need to be since its quite different from the "Standard" ar15. Scrap the BCG? Why on earth would I do that? at the MOST it would just need a stiffer extractor spring. which i already have and just need to install.  Why would I "scrap" the rest of it if it isn't out of spec? That's nonsense.  It's a brand new standard BCG from SOTA arms. The failure due to the short barrel is an extremely plausible reason that would cause failure in an otherwise fine BCG.  

Quoted:
Quoted:


Well as suspected I experienced another failure... Exactly the same as your image. So it is clear the extractor has enough grip as it also ripped the rim off, and the shell itself was not difficult to remove with the rod tell me that I do indeed ALSO need a Heavier Buffer.

Sounds like "mil-spec" is aka H2 weight? and this worked for you caliAR?

on a side note i've fired many more out of my 7.62 without a single issue. And that was with original BCG from sota and upper from hardened. I love how reliable that thing is! http://i61.tinypic.com/v7fgqa.jpg


See? I posted the second time before I even looked at page 3. (couldn't control myself)

You need to get the gas system figured out. Leave the buffer alone.


So what are you saying? more gas? less gas? It seems like its getting plenty to me. If anything maybe turned down a little. And considering the military uses H2 buffers and o-rings I don't see what the problem is. Especially if the signs point that direction anyways.
Link Posted: 3/22/2014 3:10:32 AM EDT
[#20]
So have you really cleaned it well by using a chamber brush and a good cleaning solution yet to the chamber yet?  Another thought also would be to inspect the bore closely and possibly polish the chamber with some JB Paste or similar product.
Link Posted: 3/22/2014 4:42:24 AM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
So have you really cleaned it well by using a chamber brush and a good cleaning solution yet to the chamber yet?  Another thought also would be to inspect the bore closely and possibly polish the chamber with some JB Paste or similar product.
View Quote


since the shell was so easy to remove with the rod I do not think this is due to a dirty chamber. I'm almost certain a heavier buffer will fix it. I'll test it when it arrives.
Link Posted: 3/22/2014 6:55:09 AM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


On my previous regular Buffer, I definitely heard a rattle from that buffer all the time. I would hear it by just picking up the rifle. On this new one I purchased from the vendor above, I never noticed anything.

So, to be double sure, I picked up the rifle a few minutes ago and gave it a good shake - no rattle from the Buffer. The only thing I hear is some other sounds from the rest of the rifle (mostly from the magazine well area).

To be triple sure, I pulled the buffer out and gave it a shake. There definitely is a light rattle, but once it's on the rifle, you won't even notice it anymore.

Hope that helps.

View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Yup if that's what your casings look like, and you have a stock Buffer, the next best bet would be to install the Heavier Buffer.

This is the one I got from eBay, for $17 shipped, it's a merchant I have gotten plenty of parts from. The title says "Rifle" Buffer, but it's not. The item arrived quickly, I popped it in, and I never saw the failures again, on both Calibers (have shot 300+ rounds since, on both the Pistols):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271226120430?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

It's nothing fancy, but it did the job superbly.

since it's so cheap, is it solid one piece (with lead) or it's filled with tungsten parts (and rattles)?
thanks


On my previous regular Buffer, I definitely heard a rattle from that buffer all the time. I would hear it by just picking up the rifle. On this new one I purchased from the vendor above, I never noticed anything.

So, to be double sure, I picked up the rifle a few minutes ago and gave it a good shake - no rattle from the Buffer. The only thing I hear is some other sounds from the rest of the rifle (mostly from the magazine well area).

To be triple sure, I pulled the buffer out and gave it a shake. There definitely is a light rattle, but once it's on the rifle, you won't even notice it anymore.

Hope that helps.


thanks
the reason i asked is there was a buffer sold on amazon that's about the same price, but it was filled with one cheap lead, not tungsten weights with spacers, problem with that is it may cause bolt bounce, the right design is with tungsten weights with spacers so it will rattle and won't cause bolt bounce since weights in there kind of "cancel" each other
Link Posted: 3/22/2014 1:09:07 PM EDT
[#23]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:





thanks

the reason i asked is there was a buffer sold on amazon that's about the same price, but it was filled with one cheap lead, not tungsten weights with spacers, problem with that is it may cause bolt bounce, the right design is with tungsten weights with spacers so it will rattle and won't cause bolt bounce since weights in there kind of "cancel" each other
View Quote




That's good to know, thanks ...






 

Link Posted: 3/24/2014 10:39:10 AM EDT
[#24]
im having a similar issue as the op. my 7.5 pistol build is as follows

aero upper and lower, dont remember what lpk i used on this build

voodoo 7.5 barrel

kak flash can

spikes f/a bcg

troy 9.2" rail

i swapped the phase 5 pistol tube for the thordsen with their adapter and caa saddle

i first built it with an ice lo pro gas block and the carbine buffer

when i started having fte issues i dropped in a heavier buffer 4.5 or 4.8oz and still had problems. i then changed the gas block to an adjustable one but that didnt fix it either. im starting to get pissed with it but do you think an extractor spring upgrade or adding an o-ring would help?

thanks

almost forgot, i was shooting different ammo, 193, 855, and 223 federal bulk
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 11:25:49 AM EDT
[#25]
I'll through my 2 cents into the mix here.  First drilling the gas port out maybe necessary, but there are many other options which should be reviewed first.  Sure you can add an adjustable gas block to "fix" any over pressure issues, but that may limit handguard options and you should always start simple.  Why do I say this....I did even after a local reputable class 2 looked at the gun.  Still did not work.  I got my hands on another lower and it ran great.  I put the lpk into my lower and it worked great.  I called the original manufacturer of the upper and the asked to have the whole gun....hammer was a modified m16 hammer and not in spec.   Now my gun was WAY over gassed.  I bought a new barrel and used the old one for a 22 lr conversion.  That was back in 1998 and since that one hang up I have never had a problem fisin short barrel problems.

Back to the gas port....it does need to be a proportional diameter and it's location on the barrel.  These will vary depending on barrel length and gas system length.  I don't know the number....there are a couple discussions about this here on ARFCOM.  Don't hesitate to check yours.

I find the extractor and ejector springs are the number one (#1) wear item on shorter barreled AR uppers.  Get good ones...I like Colt and Wolf.  Also try the o-ring or D-fender ring.  Be warned that when you do increase the spring tension the extractor has to ride over the cartridge rim.  This can cause other wear and possible broken extractors.

To check my extractor spring I like to have little to no movement with my finger pressing on the rear and a feeling of a lot of tension when prying with my finger.  

To check my ejector spring I use my finger nails to push the ejector into the bolt.  If my nail bends before the ejector moves...time for a spring change.  Slight movement of the nail is ok.

NEXT UP...Buffer  look at getting a H2 or Spike's ST2.  This change helped me and seems to be the way to go for 300 blk setups (again worked for me).

NEXT....buffer spring.....when I put a KX3 on my 7.5 upper (I used for my patrol rifle) I started having short stroking on every round.  I did the extractor/ejector spring change with a new D-fender ring.  Still had problems.   I used the H2 and a Colt buffer spring.  Clearly the buffer spring was an improvement over my old one.....gun ran like a champ.

In the end on my guns I replaced the extractor spring and insert annually.  I inspect the ejector spring at every cleaning.  I also check the buffer spring every cleaning.  After several thousand rounds (a good rifle course) I will replace the buffer spring.  Cheap insurance.

One more area to look is your magazine spring.  The spring needs to fully advance your next round during the cycling for the bolt to pick it up properly.  There are more mag spring failures in handguns...but it happens in rifles too.  

Feel free to PM me with any specific questions and I'll try to get them answered for you.  

Good luck,

Mike
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 11:28:57 AM EDT
[#26]
Go get an O-ring from your local mom and pop hardware store and install it around the extractor spring for a grand sum of $0.05c. That and a heavy buffer will solve the problem.
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 12:44:14 PM EDT
[#27]
If it's already almost ripping the rim off the case... IT DOES NOT NEED THE GAS PORT DRILLED FOR MORE GAS.

Sheesh.

You need less gas, more weight/buffering to slow extraction, maybe an LMT enhanced bolt carrier to allow a little more time during the opening/extraction process, and/or you might have a dirty, rough or improperly cut chamber that is not allowing the cases to extract.

You're also well into the realm where the differences between steel and brass cases becomes apparent.  Unlike the "x39" cartridges, the 223/5.56 cartridge was not designed to use steel cases, and the more demanding the configuration, the more the differences in cases can impose itself.
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 12:57:51 PM EDT
[#28]
Just get one of these...
 
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 4:38:36 PM EDT
[#29]
i have an adjustable gas block and heavier buffer. i scrubbed the chamber with a chamber brush and solvent. my bcg is a spikes f/a. sometimes it will partially pull the spent case from the chamber but another rnd gets jammed into it. other times the fired brass is still in the chamber. i only shoot brass in my pistol and the very first mag ran fine but after that i started getting problems. sometimes i can get off a few shots before it jams.

that being said i think ill try the o-ring
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 5:21:42 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
i have an adjustable gas block and heavier buffer. i scrubbed the chamber with a chamber brush and solvent. my bcg is a spikes f/a. sometimes it will partially pull the spent case from the chamber but another rnd gets jammed into it. other times the fired brass is still in the chamber. i only shoot brass in my pistol and the very first mag ran fine but after that i started getting problems. sometimes i can get off a few shots before it jams.

that being said i think ill try the o-ring
View Quote


If you already have everything else then yes. That's what I would try. Made a significant difference for me. I think the heavier buffer will take care of the rest... If not I will try an adjustable block to lower the pressure.

I was going to say.. you post says you already put in an adjustable block but it didn't mention if you had actually ADJUSTED it.... Just curious... If not I would close it down until the bolt no longer locks back with 1 round in the mag. Open up a touch from there and see what happens.
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 5:51:55 PM EDT
[#31]
Yhea I adjusted it and did so every rnd for over 60 rounds
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 5:56:01 PM EDT
[#32]
Ok well if you still have rims on your cases and your bolt is locking back as it should then yes absolutely. get the o-ring/spring kit. I found a #60 o-ring as mentioned and it made a huge improvement.... Now mine has plenty of gripping power but the timing is off and its extracting too early and ripping the rims off. I hope this heavier buffer is the final mod necessary. Ill report back after testing.


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

thanks
the reason i asked is there was a buffer sold on amazon that's about the same price, but it was filled with one cheap lead, not tungsten weights with spacers, problem with that is it may cause bolt bounce, the right design is with tungsten weights with spacers so it will rattle and won't cause bolt bounce since weights in there kind of "cancel" each other
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Yup if that's what your casings look like, and you have a stock Buffer, the next best bet would be to install the Heavier Buffer.

This is the one I got from eBay, for $17 shipped, it's a merchant I have gotten plenty of parts from. The title says "Rifle" Buffer, but it's not. The item arrived quickly, I popped it in, and I never saw the failures again, on both Calibers (have shot 300+ rounds since, on both the Pistols):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271226120430?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

It's nothing fancy, but it did the job superbly.

since it's so cheap, is it solid one piece (with lead) or it's filled with tungsten parts (and rattles)?
thanks


On my previous regular Buffer, I definitely heard a rattle from that buffer all the time. I would hear it by just picking up the rifle. On this new one I purchased from the vendor above, I never noticed anything.

So, to be double sure, I picked up the rifle a few minutes ago and gave it a good shake - no rattle from the Buffer. The only thing I hear is some other sounds from the rest of the rifle (mostly from the magazine well area).

To be triple sure, I pulled the buffer out and gave it a shake. There definitely is a light rattle, but once it's on the rifle, you won't even notice it anymore.

Hope that helps.


thanks
the reason i asked is there was a buffer sold on amazon that's about the same price, but it was filled with one cheap lead, not tungsten weights with spacers, problem with that is it may cause bolt bounce, the right design is with tungsten weights with spacers so it will rattle and won't cause bolt bounce since weights in there kind of "cancel" each other


Well here are a few pictures of the Buffer I purchased through the ebay link above... Came to me labeled from AXC same brand as some of the buffers on amazon for the same price. Cracked it open and this is what it looks like. The disks are like a clear plastic/rubbery substance.

http://i58.tinypic.com/2nq4jg5.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/10fom13.jpg
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 9:02:07 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Ok well if you still have rims on your cases and your bolt is locking back as it should then yes absolutely. get the o-ring/spring kit. I found a #60 o-ring as mentioned and it made a huge improvement.... Now mine has plenty of gripping power but the timing is off and its extracting too early and ripping the rims off. I hope this heavier buffer is the final mod necessary. Ill report back after testing.




Well here are a few pictures of the Buffer I purchased through the ebay link above... Came to me labeled from AXC same brand as some of the buffers on amazon for the same price. Cracked it open and this is what it looks like. The disks are like a clear plastic/rubbery substance.

http://i58.tinypic.com/2nq4jg5.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/10fom13.jpg
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Ok well if you still have rims on your cases and your bolt is locking back as it should then yes absolutely. get the o-ring/spring kit. I found a #60 o-ring as mentioned and it made a huge improvement.... Now mine has plenty of gripping power but the timing is off and its extracting too early and ripping the rims off. I hope this heavier buffer is the final mod necessary. Ill report back after testing.


Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Yup if that's what your casings look like, and you have a stock Buffer, the next best bet would be to install the Heavier Buffer.

This is the one I got from eBay, for $17 shipped, it's a merchant I have gotten plenty of parts from. The title says "Rifle" Buffer, but it's not. The item arrived quickly, I popped it in, and I never saw the failures again, on both Calibers (have shot 300+ rounds since, on both the Pistols):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271226120430?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

It's nothing fancy, but it did the job superbly.

since it's so cheap, is it solid one piece (with lead) or it's filled with tungsten parts (and rattles)?
thanks


On my previous regular Buffer, I definitely heard a rattle from that buffer all the time. I would hear it by just picking up the rifle. On this new one I purchased from the vendor above, I never noticed anything.

So, to be double sure, I picked up the rifle a few minutes ago and gave it a good shake - no rattle from the Buffer. The only thing I hear is some other sounds from the rest of the rifle (mostly from the magazine well area).

To be triple sure, I pulled the buffer out and gave it a shake. There definitely is a light rattle, but once it's on the rifle, you won't even notice it anymore.

Hope that helps.


thanks
the reason i asked is there was a buffer sold on amazon that's about the same price, but it was filled with one cheap lead, not tungsten weights with spacers, problem with that is it may cause bolt bounce, the right design is with tungsten weights with spacers so it will rattle and won't cause bolt bounce since weights in there kind of "cancel" each other


Well here are a few pictures of the Buffer I purchased through the ebay link above... Came to me labeled from AXC same brand as some of the buffers on amazon for the same price. Cracked it open and this is what it looks like. The disks are like a clear plastic/rubbery substance.

http://i58.tinypic.com/2nq4jg5.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/10fom13.jpg

thanks for the pictures, I don't know if these are tungsten weights, it looks good though at least not a single lead piece, does it rattle? since if it's tightly fit like one piece, it MAY cause bolt bounce, it may function just fine shooting semi-auto though
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 9:11:12 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History

thanks for the pictures, I don't know if these are tungsten weights, it looks good though at least not a single lead piece, does it rattle? since if it's tightly fit like one piece, it MAY cause bolt bounce, it may function just fine shooting semi-auto though
View Quote


yes it rattles slightly. not as much as the original though. And yes relieved to see multiple weights after reading that and yes no idea if they're tungsten or whatnot.
Link Posted: 3/24/2014 9:38:47 PM EDT
[#35]
To figure out what the material is... easy... weight it, then divide by the volume.

density  = weight / ( piR2 x H )

Tungsten = .708 lb.in3
Lead = .410 lb/in3
Steel =   .283 lb/in3
Al = .098 lb/in3
Link Posted: 3/25/2014 9:17:26 PM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
To figure out what the material is... easy... weight it, then divide by the volume.

density  = weight / ( piR2 x H )

Tungsten = .708 lb.in3
Lead = .410 lb/in3
Steel =   .283 lb/in3
Al = .098 lb/in3
View Quote


Hmm.. good idea.

FYI I put it on a scale today and it weighed 4.51 ounces =)

Haven't had a chance to test fire yet though. Hopefully friday.
Link Posted: 3/26/2014 7:46:30 AM EDT
[#37]
found this, looks like H2 should rattle just as much as the standard
OP, maybe you can try remove the spacers to create more empty space? (in this case we need more space, not less)


Link Posted: 3/28/2014 5:39:38 PM EDT
[#38]

Supermario80 - that's the exact one that got my problem fixed for under $20... got my fingers crossed that you will be as lucky. Looking forward to your update.





Link Posted: 3/29/2014 8:34:12 PM EDT
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Supermario80 - that's the exact one that got my problem fixed for under $20... got my fingers crossed that you will be as lucky. Looking forward to your update.



View Quote


Well, I ordered 2 of those AXC buffers... one was from ebay the other amazon, only later did I realize they were the same. Oh well....

Anyways I installed the BCM springs and 4.5oz Buffers in both pistol lowers and headed to the range today.

I fired a full 40 round straight mag without a single issue. Perfect.

My gf however is always unlucky for some reason. lol. She had some sort of jam so I cleared it and shot it but it again jammed. I think there was a failure to lock forward on an unfired round and I wasn't thinking and dropped the bolt on it which made it worse and ended the session.

Since a new unfired round jammed I'm fairly certain it was due to the dirty chamber that I hadn't cleaned and the steel ammo. Do people "rough up" their chambers at all to help them stop sticking?

Also... the H2 buffer allowed the 7.62x39x7.5" pistol to go though several 30 rd acs mags without a single issue.
Link Posted: 3/29/2014 11:19:19 PM EDT
[#40]




Real happy to hear that dude.




As to the jam on the 556, it could be a dirty chamber. As with yours, although the Buffer has been a very good solution, my next move would be to go with I think is the "best" solution by switching to an adjustable gas block, as it provides a lot more flexibility and other crucial benefits. I just learned yesterday a key advantage with the adjustable... since the pistols often suffer from over-gassing, the reduction of pressure using the adjustable also means a cleaner rifle - easier cleaning and less chance of caking the chamber.




Back to eBay now, lol. ($34)










How do you plan to extricate that live round?


















 
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 3:53:59 AM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Real happy to hear that dude.

As to the jam on the 556, it could be a dirty chamber. As with yours, although the Buffer has been a very good solution, my next move would be to go with I think is the "best" solution by switching to an adjustable gas block, as it provides a lot more flexibility and other crucial benefits. I just learned yesterday a key advantage with the adjustable... since the pistols often suffer from over-gassing, the reduction of pressure using the adjustable also means a cleaner rifle - easier cleaning and less chance of caking the chamber.

Back to eBay now, lol. ($34)



How do you plan to extricate that live round?



 
View Quote


Thanks, and yes I forgot to mention an Adjustable gas block seemed like the next logical step. Ripped off a rim again so either overgassed or dirty chamber. But since the live round got stuck with no combustion pressure it points to dirty chamber for sure as well.

And yes the live round jammed with the bolt partially open, and refused to fully close. (i think right at the point the bolt rotates) and yes that was a little tricky, obviously didn't want to ram a cleaning rod down there. And with the bolt not closed I couldn't break it down either. I wound up waiting until I got home then got really comfortable with it wrapped under my leg and just pull as hard as I could on the charging handle and it finally popped out. Walls were all sticky.
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 4:42:25 AM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Do people "rough up" their chambers at all to help them stop sticking?
.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Supermario80 - that's the exact one that got my problem fixed for under $20... got my fingers crossed that you will be as lucky. Looking forward to your update.





Do people "rough up" their chambers at all to help them stop sticking?
.



NO, if anything polish it!
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 5:27:52 AM EDT
[#43]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



NO, if anything polish it!
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Supermario80 - that's the exact one that got my problem fixed for under $20... got my fingers crossed that you will be as lucky. Looking forward to your update.





Do people "rough up" their chambers at all to help them stop sticking?
.



NO, if anything polish it!


See. I'm curious about this... at work things stick too much when they're TOO polished... we wind up taking scotchbrite and micron paper / sandblasting to create a golf ball effect which greatly helps the friction since there's less surface area... Has anyone tried anything like this?
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 5:55:04 AM EDT
[#44]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


See. I'm curious about this... at work things stick too much when they're TOO polished... we wind up taking scotchbrite and micron paper / sandblasting to create a golf ball effect which greatly helps the friction since there's less surface area... Has anyone tried anything like this?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Supermario80 - that's the exact one that got my problem fixed for under $20... got my fingers crossed that you will be as lucky. Looking forward to your update.





Do people "rough up" their chambers at all to help them stop sticking?
.



NO, if anything polish it!


See. I'm curious about this... at work things stick too much when they're TOO polished... we wind up taking scotchbrite and micron paper / sandblasting to create a golf ball effect which greatly helps the friction since there's less surface area... Has anyone tried anything like this?

Negative. Roughing the chamber is definitely not a good thing.
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 6:10:12 AM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

Negative. Roughing the chamber is definitely not a good thing.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Supermario80 - that's the exact one that got my problem fixed for under $20... got my fingers crossed that you will be as lucky. Looking forward to your update.





Do people "rough up" their chambers at all to help them stop sticking?
.



NO, if anything polish it!


See. I'm curious about this... at work things stick too much when they're TOO polished... we wind up taking scotchbrite and micron paper / sandblasting to create a golf ball effect which greatly helps the friction since there's less surface area... Has anyone tried anything like this?

Negative. Roughing the chamber is definitely not a good thing.


Trying reading up on what actually happens with a round when it is touched off, what happens to the brass in those moments and it should become clear.
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 9:02:02 AM EDT
[#46]
damn, i am thinking about trying some cheap steel case ammo to save some $, this gives me 2nd thoughts
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 10:14:49 AM EDT
[#47]


Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



damn, i am thinking about trying some cheap steel case ammo to save some $, this gives me 2nd thoughts
View Quote



It's a little bit of troubleshooting for years of benefit. I just consider it part of owning an AR - you dial it in, so that it does what you want it do. I wanted a flexible AR that can shoot many kinds of ammo, so I realize I gotta put the work in to make that happen.















 
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 5:08:28 PM EDT
[#48]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

It's a little bit of troubleshooting for years of benefit. I just consider it part of owning an AR - you dial it in, so that it does what you want it do. I wanted a flexible AR that can shoot many kinds of ammo, so I realize I gotta put the work in to make that happen.




 
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
damn, i am thinking about trying some cheap steel case ammo to save some $, this gives me 2nd thoughts

It's a little bit of troubleshooting for years of benefit. I just consider it part of owning an AR - you dial it in, so that it does what you want it do. I wanted a flexible AR that can shoot many kinds of ammo, so I realize I gotta put the work in to make that happen.




 

I guess I'm lucky. Even my 7" eats steel like candy.

There's nothing a little spring or buffer tuning can't fix...and if that doesn't it wasn't right to begin with. Most guns/barrels/uppers come over gassed, not under.

Both of my pistols needed a little slowing down.

The 10.5" worked great but was a jackhammer and beat up brass. It got a FA carrier and H3 buffer. It's been as smooth and pleasant to shoot as my 16" rifle gas dissipator.

The 7" was easier on the brass but was also a jackhammer and slung brass a ways. An H3 buffer and Wolff XP spring helped out a bit, but that may benefit from even more buffer and/or a FA carrier. It has a combo brake/booster/FH, and it really doesn't need the extra push.

Both got the extractor O-ring from the start.

Many assert that an adjustable gas block is the best remedy, but my gas blocks are pinned and are staying just as they are.
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 7:17:14 PM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

It's a little bit of troubleshooting for years of benefit. I just consider it part of owning an AR - you dial it in, so that it does what you want it do. I wanted a flexible AR that can shoot many kinds of ammo, so I realize I gotta put the work in to make that happen.
 
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
damn, i am thinking about trying some cheap steel case ammo to save some $, this gives me 2nd thoughts

It's a little bit of troubleshooting for years of benefit. I just consider it part of owning an AR - you dial it in, so that it does what you want it do. I wanted a flexible AR that can shoot many kinds of ammo, so I realize I gotta put the work in to make that happen.
 

i don't want to damage the gun during the debugging process or shooting of steel ammo
Link Posted: 3/30/2014 7:29:48 PM EDT
[#50]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

i don't want to damage the gun during the debugging process or shooting of steel ammo
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
damn, i am thinking about trying some cheap steel case ammo to save some $, this gives me 2nd thoughts

It's a little bit of troubleshooting for years of benefit. I just consider it part of owning an AR - you dial it in, so that it does what you want it do. I wanted a flexible AR that can shoot many kinds of ammo, so I realize I gotta put the work in to make that happen.
 

i don't want to damage the gun during the debugging process or shooting of steel ammo


A gun that won't run both steel and brass is already broken IMNSHO.

- OS
Page / 3
Page AR-15 » AR Pistols
AR Sponsor: bravocompany
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top