Does anyone run a full size buffer tube on their AR Pistol?  Also, with a full size buffer tube on a pistol with a 7.5" barrel can I use a standard AR buffer?

Yes and yes.

One other question. Is there a pitol buffer tube that is the same length as the carbine buffer tube?

The RRA and the Spike pistol tubes appear to be the same length as a carbine tube but since I've only seen pics I can't say for sure.

Internally, they are all pretty much the same if they must function with a carbine spring and carbine buffer.  Externally, if they use a carbine spring and carbine buffer, they're going to be real close because why wouldn't they be.

The better question would be, is there a pistol receiver extension (buffer tube) the same length as a rifle receiver extension.  That answer is no.  Can't find anyone to make one.  Seems no one has a boring bar that long that's willing to make one that can utilize a rifle buffer and spring.  

I've worked with and tested a whole bunch of different buffer tubes from Spikes to Phase5...the best ones I've found and worked with so far (and the best priced) are from Exile Machine.

Exile doesn't make any but they sell most of them.  I like Rock River's and Quentin Defense.  But I still prefer rifle tubes with the rifle buffers for pistols.  Works for me.  

Thanks guys,

I'm thinking hard about buying the Sig pistol brace and I'm trying to figure out if there's a buffer tube that's a little longer than my current buffer tube that I can put the brace on and not have my face crammed up against the upper receiver.  I would like to have just long enough that it's compact and yet I could use iron sights.

I haven't seen anyone claim the Sig brace is worth a durn as actual shoulder braced device.

And if you stiffen it up, well, you know, you've probably made an actual stock from it.

- OS

Just use a rifle tube.    I've done those twice .    Not a big deal,

There's a reason they are called peep sights.  If you're peeping through a keyhole, is your face against the door or back a foot.  

Nose against the charging handle, there, boy!

NOSE ON CHARGING HANDLE SON...THAT IS HOW AN AR IS MEANT TO BE SHOT...YES I'M SHOUTING...I've still got carbon, LSA. Parris Island sand and grit in the corner of my nose from 1976...

On a serious note...I am running a RRA pistol tube on mine...great piece, carbine length...

lol

Photo updated.

Length, top to bottom

A2 with spacer, 10"
A1 without spacer, 9.5"
RRA Pistol , recoil buffer tube, 7"
Commercial carbine, recoil buffer tube, 7.25"

All lengths approximate, from point of joining lower receiver to the end of the buffer tube.

I couldn't get a pistol tube because of the panic.

Got an A2 tube and buffer.

I like how it balances when shooting one handed with a CAA grip.

This pistol upper and rifle extension has a short tube with a modified bolt carrier.
The buffer is gone and the buffer spring surrounds the lower half of the bolt carrier.
This can always be switched out later with a standard bolt carrier and rifle extension.

Modified bolt carrier, short buffer tube

http://www.gunsmokeenterprises.net/images/1357251458120-493013881.jpeg
This assembly has been engineered and tested on an upper with a 7" barrel.

I've ordered the kit minus stripped lower. It should arrive next week.

I purchased an 80% stripped lower from EPLowers EP Lowers
EP Lowers is a different approach to home build; the fire control group is white. All other holes are relieved.
All you have to do is remove the white, selector hole, drill the hammer  and trigger holes, cut the trigger slot and tap the pistol grip hole (pre-drilled).
White material
It is polycarbonate (proprietary). Has been tested with lots of rounds.
You could always get another 80% if this one doesn't work out.

I worked on an EP Lower last month.
Great concept for people like me with average Joe tools. and Polymer is a lot easier to handle than aluminum.
Just remove the white stuff.
Floor standing drill press and XY vice a must. They claim some people have used Dremmel tools and jokingly a Bowie knife.
I had to work very slow as it was with end mill bits on the XY vice.
I sent the lower back to them; the bottom of the fire control pocket fractured and thinned out.
My end mill chattered on the polycarbonate. The end mill is solid in the chuck so I suspect it's the plastic chipping a little instead of cutting/grinding.
I don't think I grasped the millwork 100%.
I take full responsibility for not having machining skills or costly tools but am very disappointed it didn't work out.
I cut the receiver in half - as per their instructions - for shipping and placed the correspondence with EP in the box and shipped it back.
I would like to see them replace it without cost. This is a new method and people are going to brake them.
It would be good customer courtesy and people will be less reluctant to try one.
We'll see what happens.

FYI, standard buffer (H) almost always cause bolt bounce and feeding problems. I would go H2, which seems to be the best average for everyone, including myself.

FYI,

A standard buffer is not an H. H is a heavy buffer.

Bolt bounce is only a concern in full auto. The problem is that the bolt is out of battery, due to the bounce, when the auto sear is tripped which results in the weapon not firing.

SA does not fire fast enough, regardless of how fast you pull the trigger, to have bolt bounce interfere with the firing cycle.



 

The pistols I've owned which is a small grouping all worked flawlessly with regular buffers and H buffers, with H2's and heavier I couldn't get ultra cheap ammo to always work reliably.  Yup cheap ammo, I personally like my guns to be able to shoot anything if possible.