308 barrel install

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Posted: 3/25/2016 11:28:11 PM EDT

I know this has been discussed before, but

What do you guys like to use?
Any inexpensive option? Don't plan on building more than 1 .308

Posted: 3/26/2016 12:06:20 AM EDT

[#1]

What do guys like to use, or what actually works and comes from a reputable vendor?

Posted: 3/26/2016 2:39:02 AM EDT

[#2]

Geissele reaction rod, moly lube, torque wrench, large bench vise, breaker bar.

Posted: 3/26/2016 10:02:21 PM EDT

[#3]

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Quoted:
Geissele reaction rod, moly lube, torque wrench, large bench vise, breaker bar.

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This

ETA: You could sell the reaction rod on the EE after you're done.

Posted: 4/3/2016 4:28:56 PM EDT

[#4]

I guess I'll represent the anti-reaction rod vote. Plenty of threads here on the not-so-great results of using them. They are also crazy expensive for .308.

Here's an option that has zero downsides and is cheap:

https://www.plastixrevolution.net/products/308-ar-10-lr308-pin-upper-receiver-vise-block

Supports the upper on the top and bottom. Just need a good vice wide enough to take it, which they say is only 3.5".

-Stooxie

Posted: 4/3/2016 7:04:37 PM EDT

[#5]

Quote History

Quoted:
I guess I'll represent the anti-reaction rod vote. Plenty of threads here on the not-so-great results of using them. They are also crazy expensive for .308.

Here's an option that has zero downsides and is cheap:

https://www.plastixrevolution.net/products/308-ar-10-lr308-pin-upper-receiver-vise-block

Supports the upper on the top and bottom. Just need a good vice wide enough to take it, which they say is only 3.5".

-Stooxie

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I used one of those last week to install a 6.5 creedmoor barrel and also used on of their barrel vice blocks to install a muzzle brake. It worked flawlessly and don't think it can be beat for the price.

Posted: 4/3/2016 7:13:05 PM EDT

[#6]

+1 on the above!
Read no so good things on the reaction rods!
I use the plastx for my 308 builds

Posted: 4/3/2016 10:13:02 PM EDT

[#7]

I've got some delrin blocks from armalite. Works for both ar15 and ar10. Will work with other uppers, but you might need to file a bit on the lower portion. I filed mine and it works on Aero uppers Maten uppers, armalite, tons of ar15 both forged and billet.

I like the ones that sandwich the upper. Have never had an issue with them. A 6" vice is best, or you can get by with a C-clamp, a 2x4, and a sturdy table.

Posted: 4/3/2016 11:02:45 PM EDT

[#8]

Quote History

Quoted:
Geissele reaction rod, moly lube, torque wrench, large bench vise, breaker bar.

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There is no other answer than this. The reaction rod is a great tool.

Edit... This is what Midwest Industries uses in the shop. I trust them to know what they are doing. That's good enough for me.

Posted: 4/3/2016 11:41:01 PM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

Quoted:
I guess I'll represent the anti-reaction rod vote. Plenty of threads here on the not-so-great results of using them. They are also crazy expensive for .308.

Here's an option that has zero downsides and is cheap:

https://www.plastixrevolution.net/products/308-ar-10-lr308-pin-upper-receiver-vise-block

Supports the upper on the top and bottom. Just need a good vice wide enough to take it, which they say is only 3.5".

-Stooxie

View Quote

Another vote for this setup. I also have their simple barrel retention blocks that work great too. I can't believe how well these blocks works for how simple and inexpensive they are. I've used mine on AR10's and AR15's with perfect results. Not knocking the reaction rod, but price for function is kind of hard to beat for the plastixrevolution products.

Posted: 4/4/2016 10:29:09 AM EDT

[#10]

Don't use the reaction rod to install a muzzle device. It's meant for barrel installation only.

You can make a cheap barrel clamp to use for installing a muzzle device, or you can do the down and dirty method by clamping the upper between your legs

Barrel clamp:

Get a block of wood about 2"x2" 3x3" or somewhere in between and about 2-3" long.

1. Make a pilot hole in the center

2. Drill the pilot hole with a forstner bit, or a large drill bit that is about the same diameter of the barrel diameter near the muzzle threads or wherever you will be clamping.

3. Cut the block in halves.

Now you can clamp your barrel in the vise with the block of wood.

If you need more grip, Brownells sells rosin that will grip the barrel to the wood a bit better for a more secure fit in the block and won't mar the finish.

Posted: 4/4/2016 11:09:47 AM EDT

[#11]

If you're only building 1, then some wood will be fine for you.

Posted: 4/4/2016 11:58:18 AM EDT

[#12]

Brownell's makes a version of the reaction rod that's about half the price. They work great for barrel nut maintenance.

Posted: 4/5/2016 10:01:46 AM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:
Brownell's makes a version of the reaction rod that's about half the price. They work great for barrel nut maintenance.

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I almost bought one of those, but it doesn't have flats to keep it from turning in a vise.

You could just add some hardware to make it work, but I still went with the Geissele for simplicity.

Posted: 4/5/2016 12:19:49 PM EDT

[#14]

Quote History

Quoted:

I almost bought one of those, but it doesn't have flats to keep it from turning in a vise.

You could just add some hardware to make it work, but I still went with the Geissele for simplicity.

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
Brownell's makes a version of the reaction rod that's about half the price. They work great for barrel nut maintenance.

I almost bought one of those, but it doesn't have flats to keep it from turning in a vise.

You could just add some hardware to make it work, but I still went with the Geissele for simplicity.

I ended up buying one. You put the wrench in the vise

Posted: 4/5/2016 10:34:12 PM EDT

[#15]

the Brownell's version doesn't have the vise flats like the Geissele, however, it does have a 1/2" square drive for your breaker bar.

Posted: 4/6/2016 1:42:43 AM EDT

[#16]

I have not run into any issues where I'd need a reaction rod. My receiver blocks have worked great for numerous builds. I just can't imagine the need for it. Maybe if i had one in my hands, but doesn't seem simple enough to warrant s new +60$ tool. One that is specific for the small and large frame ARs. I already have specific barrel nut wrenches, why add to it unnecessarily?

Posted: 4/8/2016 4:46:43 PM EDT

[#17]

Quote History

Quoted:

I ended up buying one. You put the wrench in the vise

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
Brownell's makes a version of the reaction rod that's about half the price. They work great for barrel nut maintenance.

I almost bought one of those, but it doesn't have flats to keep it from turning in a vise.

You could just add some hardware to make it work, but I still went with the Geissele for simplicity.

I ended up buying one. You put the wrench in the vise

You could buy a piece of 1/2" key stock and put in the end for the vice.

Posted: 4/8/2016 6:46:56 PM EDT

[#18]

Quote History

Quoted:

I ended up buying one. You put the wrench in the vise

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
Brownell's makes a version of the reaction rod that's about half the price. They work great for barrel nut maintenance.

I almost bought one of those, but it doesn't have flats to keep it from turning in a vise.

You could just add some hardware to make it work, but I still went with the Geissele for simplicity.

I ended up buying one. You put the wrench in the vise

Either of these solutions work.

I made the red thing out of steel tube scraps and the socket adapter can be had at Harbor Freight for cheap. Either one clamps in the vise to hold the Brownell's tool.

Posted: 4/8/2016 7:00:23 PM EDT

[#19]

Ok, now we're really off the deep end. You could just pay 17 bucks for the guaranteed to work solution. No welding necessary.

-Stooxie

Posted: 4/9/2016 11:12:26 AM EDT

[#20]

Quote History

Quoted:
Ok, now we're really off the deep end. You could just pay 17 bucks for the guaranteed to work solution. No welding necessary.

-Stooxie

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LOL!...still, I do love human ingenuity when it comes to solving problems...even when it becomes more complex. Stooxie, I think I've said it before, one of the problems with the sub-$20 Plastixrevolution tools is that they're too inexpensive. There's no way the reasonable person could believe that something so simple and inexpensive could work effectively...until you try it...LOL! Now, on the other hand, a big price tag, whiz-bang claims, and cool name...who wouldn't love and respect tools like those.

Posted: 4/26/2016 3:19:04 PM EDT

[#21]

They also sell this one which does both AR-15 and AR-10. It's the one I bought for my Aero Precision M5E1 build and it worked fine. They sell them on ebay also.

https://www.plastixrevolution.net/collections/ar15-vise-blocks/products/223-ar-15-308-ar-10-upper-receiver-vise-block

Quote History

Quoted:
I guess I'll represent the anti-reaction rod vote. Plenty of threads here on the not-so-great results of using them. They are also crazy expensive for .308.

Here's an option that has zero downsides and is cheap:

https://www.plastixrevolution.net/products/308-ar-10-lr308-pin-upper-receiver-vise-block

Supports the upper on the top and bottom. Just need a good vice wide enough to take it, which they say is only 3.5".

-Stooxie

View Quote

Posted: 4/30/2016 5:29:57 PM EDT

[#22]

Quote History

Quoted:
I guess I'll represent the anti-reaction rod vote. Plenty of threads here on the not-so-great results of using them. They are also crazy expensive for .308.

Here's an option that has zero downsides and is cheap:

https://www.plastixrevolution.net/products/308-ar-10-lr308-pin-upper-receiver-vise-block

Supports the upper on the top and bottom. Just need a good vice wide enough to take it, which they say is only 3.5".

-Stooxie

View Quote

I made a vice block out of 2x4 with cut out areas for the top rail and bottom of the upper to fit.

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