I'm looking at either this or a DSA Voyager 16" FAL to host my 762sd and I can't find much info on either... Does anyone have any range time with the DEF 10 from Armalite?  If so, how do they run suppressed?

The ArmaLite's are solid.  I'm trying to think if I've ever used the carbines suppressed.  I definitely have shot the RLGS suppressed in ArmaLite's without issue, other than broken bolt catch.

The FAL is going to provide you with more options when it comes to suppressed use, for the simple reason that it already has probably the world's best adjustable gas system as part of the design.

I've been shooting the fuck out of mine.

Shoots good
feels good
100% reliable so far





Added
JP trigger
M.I. 15" rail
BCM furniture

This is a thread from the falfiles that discusses the suppressed Fal with pictures.

http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315462&highlight=suppressor

Thanks for all the info guys.  ^^^ that's pretty much the setup I had in mind for a DEF 10.

Here's a good video about the FAL suppressed.  While it has a great adjustable gas system already, there seems to be substantial gas blowback in the face that leaks from the receiver crevice created between the upper and lower.

Suppressed DSA FAL

Armalite all the way. I need to stop posting on here and actually put mine together. I've got a newborn, well not so new born, 2 months now, just got another car i need to get road ready, my mouth is full.

But yeah, the armalite is good to go. Even without an adj block she'll run just fine. But you MUST get the Slash XH buffer if your not gonna go adjustable. I personally like the heavier buffer system to the adj block. But that's really just personal preference.

As with any semi auto, adding a suppressor is going to cause issues. Which are easy to deal with, just can turn into a hassle.

I have a question on the DEF10: Can you install any AR15 collapsible stock as it comes or do you have buy a different tube/buffer/spring combo to do so?

Thanks

You can install any stock, however they won't collapse all the way. Fully collapsed, you'll have about 5/8" gap between the receiver and stock.

If you want it to fully collapse, you'll need to switch to the Vltor A5 tube. It has 7 positions as opposed to 6 for the Armalite tube. But, you'll need a stock that'll collapse all the way on the Vltor tube. The only ones i know for sure are the MagPul ACS, and Vltor stocks. I think the STR as well, but not the MOE or CTR.

Ok, that's not bad then. The gap wouldn't bother me.  I'm guessing the UBR would need a different setup?

The UBR would require a buffer and spring by Slash from heavybuffers.com. Makes great stuff, and i wouldn't recommend anything else if using the UBR.

The UBR would be the perfect stock for 308ARs of it had a better cheek weld. That was my only complaint, other than that, fantastic stock that really balances front heavy guns very well.

Ah, well that sucks, I was hoping it would offer a superior cheek weld than regular stocks.

It is better than an M4 or a2 stock. But not much. The UBR is a stock with a specific purpose. It really is a great stock, and i think it should only go on 308 ARs. It's too heavy for ar15 to me.

I had the UBR on my MaTen build. Had the strike plate, enhanced butt pad, i loved it. But i don't want it on my current build because I'm going a different route.

For a heavy barreled 16" or 18", the UBR is perfect. But not for a 20" like i have now. I'm going with the MOE fixed stock on this build. It too would be better with more of a sloped cheek weld, but still very comfortable and usable like the UBR.

Completely satisfied with the Bravo company cheekweld.

How is the balance of the rifle with that stock?

I'll throw in my +1 for the UBR on a DEF10 with Slash's heavy buffer. It really does pull the weight into your shoulder, so you get good pointability as well as a decent amount of weight to help control recoil. The Armalite KeyMod 15" freefloat handguard is also excellent; you don't need to time the barrel nut, the handguard is lightweight, and it is reasonably priced.

I've owned nearly a dozen AR308s over the course of a decade and this is the one I'm keeping. No problems to report with a variety of new and surplus ammo, other than West German DAG not cycling the action (plenty of other surplus loads around, so no big deal).

What's the weight on that?  Looks good.

Slightly behind the front take-down pin.

If I grab it at the rear of the rail, like you would grab the delta ring ( if it had one ), it feels stock-heavy

The barrel and rail are pretty light.

About 10lbs empty.

9lbs 4oz with the L7 mag (empty)

I am looking at getting the DEF 10 and adding one of the Armalite free float handguards.  In 2nd grade terms, what is involved in installing the handguard?  What tools will I need?  What parts do I need to purchase?
Thanks,

You'll need to buy the Armalite freefloat handguard and a low-profile gas block (set screw type) like this one from Brownells (0.750").

Tools:

- bench vise
- AR10 action block or Reaction Rod-type product
- AR10-size barrel nut wrench to remove the factory DEF10 barrel nut
- gas tube roll pin punch (5/64")
- hammer
- 1/2" wrench to remove the muzzle device
- 1-3/8" wrench or crowfoot wrench with foot-lb torque wrench (recommended)
- set of hex keys or bits
- anti-seize compound (like Aeroshell 33 MS)

You'll need to put your DEF10 upper into the action block/bench vise and use the 1/2" wrench to spin off the flash hider. Pull off the crush washer as well.

The gas block comes off by loosening a couple of hex bolts. Remove the handguard cap as well. Use the gas tube roll pin punch to remove the gas tube roll pin and pull out the gas tube from the gas block.

Use the barrel nut wrench to spin off the DEF10 barrel nut. This may take some effort - make sure you're torqueing exactly perpendicular to the nut or you'll round off some of the nut's teeth. Remove the barrel nut/delta ring assembly from the barrel - it should just slide off the muzzle end.

Spread some anti-seize onto the inside of the Armalite freefloat handguard barrel nut and thread it hand tight onto the receiver over the barrel. Use the 1-3/8" wrench and torque to 50 ft-lb (or about a quarter turn past hand tight if no torque wrench).

Insert the gas tube into the low profile gas block and tap in the roll pin using the roll pin punch. Slide the gas block onto the barrel and line up the gas tube so everything is exactly straight. Make sure the gas block is about 1/16" off the barrel shoulder to account for the width of the (now missing) handguard cap and tighten the set screws with a hex wrench.

Slide the handguard over the barrel nut, follow instructions to tighten the bottom bolts. Should be super-easy. If you want, you can put blue Loctite on the bolts.

Spin the flash hider and crush washer back onto the barrel and tighten using 1/2" wrench. You're not supposed to re-use the crush washer, but it should be fine if you're shooting under non-combat conditions.

That's the whole thing. If you want you can use a jig to dimple your barrel for the low profile gas block set screws, but this is not necessary unless you're looking for that extra reliability.

O.P., my opinion on the FAL is no.
I've had 3 FAL's, one of them a DSA, and have sold them all.

The FAL design has a lot of good features, but compatibility with modern optics is not one of it's features.
You can replace the top cover with an aluminum rail cover, then mount optics on the cover.
But, every time you want to do a thorough cleaning, the top cover comes off and you lose the zero on your optic.
A huge pain in the ass.