i just took my 260 build out to see if it works, it seems to be very accurate but all i have done is break it in. i was conservative with my loading, but thought it would cycle the action. instead it would not cycle it far enough to pick up the next round. it was a single shot. i am wondering whether i need to load it hotter. i found loading data on the web and cut it back not trying to see what i could get out of it but just break it in. i have a 308 spring in the buffer tube and was wondering if the light 6.5 bullet really need the extra heavy spring? do i need to load the rounds with more powder? second question i have is my 50 beowulf extractor busted. i have only found a replacement at alexanders arms for $18 plus they list the 6.5 grendel and the beowulf separately. i took my 6.5 bolt out and ran the beowulf with it with no problem. are they the same and is it the same as the 7.62 x 39 or are there differences? also is there a better place to buy just the extractor from or is that my only choice. i have not been able to find that extractor any place else. thanks for any help.

yup would need to know that to really advise you on your load.
yes, you should be useing the .308 buffer and spring
get a reloading book for the round, better then getting loads off the net. and try not to go below the min load.
in general, the AR system loves its oil anyway, and a new rifle will need about 200 rounds to break in all the parts. during this time they need more then usual
amount of oil in the action. soak it and see if that helps. when I run into a short stroking AR, 9 times out of 10 all it needs more oil

1. Need to know your load info. We can't blindly recommend you load hotter.
1a. The .308 spring should be fine.

2. I'm not positive, but I believe the 6.5G and .50 beo bolts are the same. There may be minor differences, but the headspace should be the same.

3. the 6.5 Grendel (tm) and .50 Beowulf Bolts are NOT the same as an ordinary 7.62x39mm bolt. The bolt face on the Grendel (tm) and Beo bolts is recessed slightly more than the 7.62x39mm. It will cause headspace issues mixing and matching the two.

4. You can try to use another extractor, but Alexandar Arms is your best bet. They're made specifically for the thicker 6.5/.50 beo case rim (both wider diameter and thicker base).

Nothing about this post lends confidence in your ability to safely reload ammunition.

I don't mean to sound harsh, but I highly suggest you slow down, buy at least 2 reloading manuals that have specific information relating to the calibers you intend to reload, read them both in their entirety, and start over. I also very highly suggest you buy a quality scale.

For the .260:
2.120" is impossibly short.
42.5gr of Win760 is approaching maximum book loads with a 120 Nosler. Did you do any testing to get up to 42.5 or just jump in at near max?

You can completely forget about crimping. Especially in the beginning, get something solid and safe that works, then play with crimping. At this point it's an extra variable.

There is no clearer sign to stop than what happened with your beowulf.
Again, please please please get a reloading manual that has .50 Beowulf information in it.

I am not familiar with the .50beo but no case should ever blow out like that, and you should not have to force a round to chamber with the FA. If it was an out-of-battery firing, I can't imagine there NOT being more damage to the rifle, and I suggest you 1) get it inspected by a reputable gunsmith before firing it again, and 2) fire factory ammunition until you get solid reloading data.

NEVER start with anything near maximum loads. For example, the .260.

Start with the book's minimum charge of Win 760 with an OAL of 2.750-2.800. Ensure the bullet is NOT driving into the rifling while chambered. Then work up charges in 0.3 or 0.5gr increments from there until you see pressure signs (flattened primers, extractor/ejector marks on the case head etc... and reloading manual will tell you what the signs are). As soon as you see those signs STOP. Note that as YOUR RIFLE'S maximum, and keep track of it. Then back off and work for accuracy between the starting load and your rifle's max.

I also suggest you get more organized. Keep exacting notes on everything you do so that it's not "maybe about 2.120" OAL", or "around 35.9-36.3gr of powder". You should know to the 0.1gr what your charge is, and have equipment capable of at least that level of precision, no questions asked.

Reloading is one of those things that you do it right, or you don't do it at all.

Again, I'm not trying to be harsh or scare you out of it. Just slow down and do research first, because it sounds like you're flirting with stout loads, you're not sure what is safe and what isn't, you're not sure the level of accuracy of your scale(s), and you've already had a critical failure of a .50 beowulf case.

You don't just look on the internet and end up with someone else s' load and go with it, you need to work your load up. Go to the reloading section here and read up some, put the reloading gear away for now and just read before you get hurt.

yeaaaa......you sure you have a .260rem? i dont think you could possibley load that short

Why not spend a few $$ for a few different boxes or factory loads? It's the best way to see if your handloads are close to spec and your rifle should cycle with them. If you don't have a chronograph it may be a good time to get one or borrow one.

Just my $.02