before I order one , does the threaded portion of the barrel have to extend past the hand guards, sit flush or what  ??

I'm using a KAK 12 inch barrel on a 12 inch Fortis Rev II rail and the threaded portion sits about 1/2  inch inside the end of the HG.

before I pull the trigger on a cookie cutter can anyone tell me if my set up will work or does the end of the barrel have to be flush with the end of the HG's

thanks in advance

crickets.......alrighty then, anyone else make something similar to the cookie cutter ??

I asked this same question over on M4C and it turned into a SI bash ....geesh

Well, I'll take a crack at this... Hopefully, I understand your question. Looking at pictures of both the rail and the comp - obviously the rail would have to come off just to install the Strike so I don't know how you'd get the rail back on without taking off the barrel. If the end of the muzzle threads sit 1/2" inside the rail I doubt the Strike will fit - it's design doesn't give you much room for error. I would say the end of the muzzle would have to protrude at least 1/2" to have a chance.

I recently built a pistol (7.5" bbl) and tossed on a device like the Noveske Flaming Pig (for a third of the price) - no side concussion (well, less than the Strike would have). I suspect my device (Slim Flash Hiding Pig Cone) produces more recoil than the Strike does though. You can find this flash hider at Veriforce Tactical.

Generally speaking...your rail should be approx. 1 inch shorter than your barrel.  The Cookie cutter cannot be recessed into the hand guard.  You risk blowing up your hand guard with the side pressure.

Not familiar with the cookie cutter front mount design, but if a barrel is shorter than any handguard, the escaping gasses that exit the barrel's end will be redirected quickly to somewhere around your finger tips and get warm very quickly.

Now if the cookie cutter end is designed in a way to allow for suppressor usage, then the suppressor being used would extend out past the handguard end and be fine as it will redirect the bullet's gas direction.

I would not want a barrel and a mounted flash hider or compensator with any gas diverter holes that is shorter or at the handguard's front ending. Fired bullet gases and powder flames are very hot in micro seconds and if you have your hands where the flames would shoot out the handguard, you couldn't move fast enough to not get burnt.

You could probably get away with a flush barrel/rail. A crush washer would probably give it just enough clearance to thread on correctly. If theres not enough room to reach the wrench flats (there probably wont he if you go flush) just stick a screwdriver through the large port on the brake and time it that way

success couldn't fins a crush washer that would let it line up, but a split washer worked perfect
.

Nice.  Kiss and tell though.  You like it?

CHAD

That's actually pretty neat

I would consider doing it but I need all my muzzle devices to be suppressor mounts

I'm curious about the finish on your rail. That's a pretty neat look, kind post apocalyptic steam punk lol

it just unscrews and I direct thread any can to the 1/2 x 28 threads

its cerakote FDE as a base coat baked for 30 min then cerakote black, let air cure and spray with brake cleaner and scrub off with a scotch bright pad to desired color., then bake again 30 more min to cure