I would like a more accurate upper for my LE6920. Something in the .5 MOA range. What would be a good upper to do that? Do I need to change anything besides the upper?
How good can I get for something in the $700 range? I'd prefer to buy something pre-built.
Thanks in advance for your help.

5000 rounds threw it,   dime/ washer drills   tell you can do 100 in a row    it will make it a really good weapon .

Honestly to get down to .5 MOA there are a lot of variables, mostly human. If you just want to "increase" the accuracy of your 6920, get a free float rail, better trigger, stainless barrel, better consistent ammo, and then practice. That's just my opinion.

You could buy a LaRue stealth upper but it's going to cost you $1200 and lots of practice.

I hope you realize that even the most mechanically accurate upper in this world won't shoot .5 MOA unless the shooter is doing his (or her) part.

Accuracy like that is a lofty goal that takes lots of practice. Read this thread ARFCOM 1 MOA Challange and start practicing.

Yep. If you were capable of shooting .5 MOA, then you wouldn't be asking this question, OP.

Let me pile on.

OP have you let somebody shoot your rifle off a bench, that knows how to shoot, with match ammo?  It may surprise you.  A colleague of mine just bought a $2800 Noveske, and he shoots worse with that than he did with his Colt.  I hope to go to the range with him next week.  He swears it's the gun

I want to add something here. Please don't take this the wrong way, but when I first read your question I laughed. The question is really kinda silly. Money can't buy everything and this is a good example of that.

My advise (For what it's worth) is to take your 6920 and learn how to shoot. If you want to achieve .5 MOA accuracy you're going to need professional instruction and a whole lot of time on the trigger. The fact that you asked your question in this way proves that you don't have a good grasp of what you are asking.

You're keeping the stock trigger right?  

So, you all think a stock LE6920 is capable of a .5 MOA right out of the box with the right ammo? That I just need to work on my technique? If so, I can do that. I'm just now starting to do my own reloads. Worked up some 69 gr Sierra HPBT Matchking loads this week but haven't had time to try them out yet.
I'll see if I can borrow a Lead Sled and see what it can do....

The stock 6920 is likely Not capable of .5 mos groups. Molon shot an M4 and a Colt SOCOM from a  sled and got 1.20 MOA with the SOCOM. I believe the M4 was between 1.3 & 1.4. He tested a half dozen Noveske barrels and got everything from about .75 to 1.2 MOA. There are ARs capable of better accuracy, but you're chasing your own tail on this platform past 1 MOA unless you're specifically wanting to shoot it in a bench rest competition.

Now to be clear, those were averages of 10 shot groups.. I have taken my own 6920 and shot sub MOA 3 and 5 shot groups with a 2-7 scope, and that was even before I free floated the barrel. If you shoot

You won't be shooting .5 MOA with a stock LE6920. Period.

If you want to shoot .5MOA, then you need to start practicing. A lot. You also need the right equipment, which a stock LE6920 is not.

You can swap out the barrel for a SS one, get a free float rail and an SSA-E or other high end trigger. At this point, you are basically cannibalizing the LE6920 and building an SPR.

If you're rolling your own ammo and you should consider re-barreling or re-chambering the LE6920 to a .223 REM or .223 Wylde,  The 223 Wylde chamber will allow you to still use 5.56 ammo and not worry about the pressures generated.  The stock LE6920 is chambered in 5.56 and has too much leade-out  to give you sub-moa accuracy.  If you plan on just purely shooting your own rolls, then go with the .223 REM chamber with minimal leade-out.  

Secondly, free-float the barrel

Thirdly, change the trigger to the Geissele SSA-E.

Yeah, i have to admit im with the naysayers. What makes you think the accuracy issue is the weapon and not you?

These two components should decrease your group size significantly. The next thing I would pursue would be a new high quality SS barrel and possibly a really nice bolt.

I'm convinced this is a misconception. If you have a rifle capable of 1 MOA, I can make it shoot 1 MOA with a mil spec trigger and GI handguards shooting prone and using the mag as a monopod. FF rail just makes the rifle more consistent across shooting positions, with or without slings attached, and keeps your POI from changing when you rest the handguard on a rest or bipod. It has to do with barrel harmonics, and the type of node you create when an pressure is focused on a single point on the barrel.

As for the trigger, a heavier/less quality trigger will usually just amplify your bad habits. If you have a good pull/fundamentals, a quality mil spec trigger will not dramatically affect your groups.

Considering shooting for groups is a controlled exercise, you can control the components mentioned. I have modified a couple rifles from the M4 configuration to a FF configuration, and added Geissele triggers. There was no discernable difference in accuracy.

I dunno, I'm nothing special and as a kid I could shoot 1 MOA with most decent rifles (CAR A3 Colt, Ruger VT, etc.).  After running 1/2 mile, I could plop down behind a rifle and shoot 1.5 MOA or so after 30 seconds. I just don't think 1/2 MOA is that difficult for a decent shooter. My best group was 1/2 MOA at 415 yards. 7/10 shots. I was shooting Q3131, and 3 of the shots were FEET off target. I'm going to blame the ammo, as the other 7 were in a 2" cluster, and I didn't "pull" any.

Anyway, I'm just saying, OP doesn't have to be anything special to shoot 1/2 MOA on a good day.

IMHO- to be the most accurate, particularly in a S/D mode, which is where it really counts, is get closer to the target. Holes in paper don't mean squat to be honest. Putting holes in a target when the target is trying to put holes in you, is where accuracy counts.