So here is what I'm thinking about....chopping my FSB and putting a longer HG on my rifle.  This is how she looks right now but for some reason I have this urge to extend the rail. I don't need more rail space but I would like to extend my support hand further out.



I'm thinking a 12" rail...?
What rail did you use?
How does it handle with the extra weight out on the barrel?


ETA:Great info thus far...thanks.  No budget really.  I'd like to not waste money but I also don't mind paying for quality.

ETA: So after reading and looking, I've narrowed it down a bit.  I don't really like the FSB or cut out rails.
I do however think I want to keep my factory barrell nut so that further narrowed it down to the following:
- Not big on the Samson Evo
- Centurion C4 looks nice but not for an extra $100
- Midwest Industries 2-piece FF quad rail appears to be a good option to go rails all around
- Fortis REV although I'm not sure about the whole keymod thing.  Does the rail get hot so that you need the keymod pieces thus negating the weight savings?

MOre thoughts?

Some handguards have gotten so light that you may end up losing weight over your current setup.

It's all going to depend on what you want to do with it.  

You yourself said you didn't really need the extra rail space, so why not look at some of the "tubular" handguard style options.  Personally, I'd recommend something with a Keymod attachment system if you're going to go that route.  It simplifies the mounting systems and doesn't relegate you to the proprietary mounting systems most manufacturers use on rails not utilizing keymod (troy alpha for example.)

I personally have a 13.5" Noveske NSR which I have grown pretty fond of and as a previous user said, you'll probably lose weight instead of gaining it with an option like this.  Also take a look at the BCM KMR, I'm pretty sure it's lighter weight than the NSR and has a pretty good following around here.  Another honorable mention would be the KAC URX 4.

If you are going to stick with the quad rail option, you're probably right that you'll be gaining weight rather than losing it.  If I were to go this route, I'd take a look at the Centurion C4 which eliminates the needs to remove the FSB and change the barrel nut (you'll have to cut off the delta ring).  It comes in a 12" length and is relatively light weight for what it is.

Anyway, with all these options it's going to come down to what your budget is.  If you're looking to keep it under $200, you're probably not going to be able to go with any of the options I just suggested.  Give us a heads up as to what price range you're looking at and we can probably give you a little bit more of a specific answer.

Couldn't have said it any better. Only other rail suggestion I'd add would be the Geissele Mk4 or Mk5. I personally have a KAC URX 3.1, URX3, and Geissele Mk1 on my 16"/14.5" rifles.

The top two have 16" barrels with Midwest Industries 12" handguards





This one has a 14.5" barrel with Geissele 10" handguards


This one has a 14.5" barrel with Midwest Industries  SS G2 12" handguards.

Have you considered keeping the FSB and running a longer rail with the cut out?  Examples:

Centurion Arms C4 rail 12 FSP

Centurion Arms C4 Carbine Cut Out 12

Daniel Defense AR-15 Lite Rail 12 FSP

Daniel Defense Omega x rail 12 FSB

Daniel Defense M4A1 RIS ll

Daniel Defense M4 Rail 9.5 FSP

Daniel Defense M4 rail 12

Troy Battlerail Charlie  (I know they are assholes, but it's an option)

Troy Battlerail Delta   (I know they are assholes, but it's an option)

Vltor case el

Samson Star CXR

Samson Star CX-EBR

Samson Star ex p

Samson Evolution 7 EX

Samson Evoution 7 EX Add 4” Rail Extension /B]

Midwest industries fsp 12

Apex carbine gator grip cut out

I picked up a Delta Rail before Troy made a ton of shitty decisions.  it does it's job.  I would look on the EE for a Centurion or DD rail myself if I really wanted another cut out rail.

My Carbine with troy rail (my barrel is a 14.5" pinned to 16") :

" />

Midlength but with a 13" rail so you get the idea.  I would do the rail with the cutout and keep your FSB.

Otherwise, just change the gas block to a lo pro and put whatever you want on it.

But go light.  I have the YHM lightweight and it's anything but.  It's a good rail but heavy and bulky.

If you're not overtly concerned about immediate budget, you might try either the Centurion or Troy Drop-In/semi-drop in extended rails/handguards that others have pointed out that allow you add handguard length without chopping the FSB, and really without making permanent modifications to the rifle that cannot be reversed.

You could do it "incrementally," and see if the extra handguard space actually does make sense for you and suits your needs, kind of a "proof of concept."  If it works out for you in that configuration, great.  Hold what you've got.  

If you decide you like the length, but want lighter, or want to remove the FSB, or just want a different style of handguard - you can unload the handguard you have on the EE, and swap into another handguard, while still allowing you to "go back" if you find that the hypothetical need doesn't correspond with an actual one.  

~Augee

A Daniel Defense M4A1 RIS ll would be sexy as hell on that...

Top is a 14.5 bottom is a 16, both are 12" rails one is a Midwest two piece free float the other is a fortis.

Both under $200 and both rock

Snag a 12" centurion off the EE.

Usually found for $180-200.

Outstanding and LW rail.

I did a 15" and like it alot.  Also under 6# as pictured.

So after reading and looking, I've narrowed it down a bit.  I don't really like the FSB or cut out rails.
I do however think I want to keep my factory barrell nut so that further narrowed it down to the following:
- Not big on the Samson Evo
- Centurion C4 looks nice but not for an extra $100
- Midwest Industries 2-piece FF quad rail appears to be a good option to go rails all around
- Fortis REV although I'm not sure about the whole keymod thing.  Does the rail get hot so that you need the keymod pieces thus negating the weight savings?

More thoughts?

My REV has never gotten hot on me, even after a few mag dumps. I dont however like the feel of it in my hand, and wouldn't buy one again.

I'm running a Midwest Industries 20XG2 (free float extended carbine rail) on my 6920.  Sorry for the shitty pic.

Topic Moved

I'd go KMR13 or KMR15 on a 16" barrel

To the part in red, be advised, while the MI rails are stout, there is a reason they are a lower cost option.  You pay for the cost savings in weight gain.  They are great rails, don't get me wrong, but it feels like you've hung a cinder block off the muzzle of your rifle when compared to a lot of the other lighter weight options.  It's extra noticeable for me because I absolutely despise nose heavy guns.

As to the part in blue, it's really going to depend on what you're using the rifle for and what your rates or courses of fire are.  My NSR is very lightweight and extremely thin (the barrel is super close to the handguard) and it isn't what I'd call too bad in the heat department.  Personally, I added the polymer keymod panels, and believe me, they don't add up to as much weight as to negate the weight savings.  They're polymer and they're super light, just use them only where you need them.

Pictured example of my keymod polymer panel placement:




I can tell you, even with the polymer panels and two extra rail sections I added to the keymod handguard pictured above, it is still lighter weight than my 14.5" SOPMOD Phased Replacement clone which sports a FSB and 7" KAC RAS.

15" SLR hand guard on a 16" barrel...

Since I have no need for anything on my rail, I went with the tube option. Lightweight and no frills.

15" HG over a 16" barrel.


This is obviously purpose built, but it tips the scales at 6.5lb with the micro red dot I normally run.

This thread and the Rainier Arms sale made it impossible for me to keep my BCM stock. Now I have to install a Rainier Arms 12'' EVO Keymod

16 inch .458 SOCOM with 15 inch MI SSK Keymod, 7.0 pounds as pictured.

I've used a multitude of rails across my builds.  YHM, MI (gen2 SS and T series), Geisselle, Troy, Samson/Rainier, BCM, Noveske, etc...

12" is a good length, for me and my wingspan 10" is about minimum for how i like to hold the firearm.  It's OK to go longer, but longer also entails more weight.  Some like the look and some need the real estate on those long rails.  

Most rails (all that i mentioned above) are free floated and handle weight fine....though i wouldn't recommend hanging a 25 lb dumbell off the front of it.  The only place the contact the firearm is on the barrel nut so your gun will be theoretically more accurate than your current setup.  

Keymod is intended as a license free standard for mounting accessories.  The idea is that what you buy (grips, light mounts, rail sections) will work across any MFGs rail, as long as it's keymod.  It's not the case with non keymod rails.  MI panels that are not keymod will not fit a samson, centurion, etc...I haven't had the need to use panels due to heat on any of my keymod rails, but i don't dump mags very often either.  

I'd think the Fortis is GTG but i don't have experience with it.  BY FAR, my favorite rail i've used is the BCM KMR.  Magnesium aluminum allow so the 10" rail only weights 5.5oz with barrel nut, 7.7 iirc on the 13".  3 of my 4 ARs wear the KMR.  The one that doesn't is because BCM does not make a 7" for my 8" SBR...it wears a Noveske, and while the Noveske is good, it's not as good as the KMR.  

If i was to go cheaper, i'd likely go with another MI.  I used the Gen2 SS in the past.  The SSK would be a good option as well.  

The bottom is a 16" with 13" KMR.  Top is 11.5" SBR with 10" KMR.  


This one's a 14.5" with 10" KMR.  

I personally think your rifle looks great as is.

Daniel Defense Modular Float Rail (MFR) 12.0.

Double tap.