User Panel
[#1]
Stick, I don't suppose you have a Vortex Razor 1-6 you could put on your 15" CMR picture? I just pre-ordered one and wanted to see how the razor looks on it.
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"There has never been a sadness that can't be cured by breakfast food" - Ron Swanson
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[#2]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
MLOK Centurion Arms CMR https://41.media.tumblr.com/2f9e1b8fe9a8e7d010865214d78a9c24/tumblr_o1fbbqnMvc1rrcg2fo1_1280.jpg View Quote Stick give us some angles and views of that Mlok rail. I've preordered mine but would love to see some good pics of different angles. |
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[#3]
Originally Posted By GoRebels:
Stick give us some angles and views of that Mlok rail. I've preordered mine but would love to see some good pics of different angles. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By GoRebels:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
MLOK Centurion Arms CMR https://41.media.tumblr.com/2f9e1b8fe9a8e7d010865214d78a9c24/tumblr_o1fbbqnMvc1rrcg2fo1_1280.jpg Stick give us some angles and views of that Mlok rail. I've preordered mine but would love to see some good pics of different angles. Mrs Stick just shot a bunch of stuff, I'll see what is floating around to show other views. |
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[#4]
Are they doing away with the regular version? Can't find any 14" rails in stock anywhere.
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Everything is a dildo if you are brave enough-Tmleadr03
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[#5]
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[#6]
Centurion Arms is NOT getting rid of their standard system.
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[#7]
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[#8]
Good to know. Now if I can find one I'll finish one of my builds.
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Everything is a dildo if you are brave enough-Tmleadr03
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[#9]
Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Centurion Arms is NOT getting rid of their standard system. Nice! The original system, as a whole, is definitely superior and very cost effective when accessories pricing is factored in. With Centurion in-housing some areas of production, they've lowered their prices across the board on their Gen 2 CMRs |
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[email protected]
http://www.weaponoutfitters.com https://www.facebook.com/weaponoutfitters https://instagram.com/weaponoutfitters/ |
[#11]
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[#12]
Just got my shipping notice on my 15" M Lok. Super excited. I'll have that and my receiver set cerakoted by the weekend.
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"There has never been a sadness that can't be cured by breakfast food" - Ron Swanson
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[#14]
Originally Posted By oxbcat:
My .750 SLR gas block is extremely close to the inside of my CMR. http://i.imgur.com/65NwwVB.jpg Here is my 9.5" CMR on a 11.5" Noveske barrel. http://i.imgur.com/sR5Njil.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By oxbcat:
Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
I have used SLR .750 gas blocks without issue on a Spike's 14.5" lightweight profile and on a Daniel Defense 10.3" Gov't profile. I don't think a lightweight profile and a .625 gas block would be an issue My .750 SLR gas block is extremely close to the inside of my CMR. http://i.imgur.com/65NwwVB.jpg Here is my 9.5" CMR on a 11.5" Noveske barrel. http://i.imgur.com/sR5Njil.jpg Yes, mine is too. And correction: it was a.625 SLR block on the Spike's 14.5" lightweight barrel. The SLR on the DD 10.3" is definitely the .750 though |
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[#15]
As to the gas block, I'll use their gas block just like I did on my previous CMR.
I received my 15" m lok CMR on Monday. Sent it with my buddy for cerakote along with my ARF billet set. I'll post a pic when I get them back. |
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"There has never been a sadness that can't be cured by breakfast food" - Ron Swanson
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[#16]
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"There has never been a sadness that can't be cured by breakfast food" - Ron Swanson
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[#17]
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[#18]
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[Last Edit: Stickman]
[#19]
View Quote I need to figure out how to get one of the SW Magpul lowers.... |
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[#20]
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[#21]
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[#22]
I just got mine out to the range today. Perfect rail for the Larue PredatAR barrel. Had to file a little on the Larue .625 gas block to ensure there would be clearance. Also added surefire's new non suppressor comp. Very light, very handy, very accurate.
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[#23]
I just got my 14" CMR with the lightening cutouts, I believe this may be the second generation of the original CMR? It is not key or Mlok.
Anyways I'm looking for a barrel to complete my AR build and really want to go with a Hansen premium barrel from Ballistic Advantage with their pinned low profile gas block, but I don't know if this will clear the CMR. Do you guys know by chance? I guess it would be easy enough to shave down the bottom of the gas block a bit with a belt sander if I need too. I also believe that the second generation of the CMR might have a little more room inside as compared to the first generation? I appreciate any help- Thanks! |
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[#24]
What kind of screws are you supposed to use to connect a Scout light to the Scout mount?
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[#25]
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[#26]
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[#27]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
The screws that were in it don't work? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
What kind of screws are you supposed to use to connect a Scout light to the Scout mount? The screws that were in it don't work? That's what I've always used. |
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Team Ranstad
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[#28]
Originally Posted By Mecha_Loopy:
That's what I've always used. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Mecha_Loopy:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
What kind of screws are you supposed to use to connect a Scout light to the Scout mount? The screws that were in it don't work? That's what I've always used. No, the ones that come with the new M300C don't at least. They are much too small. Any one know the exact size/thread? |
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[#29]
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[#31]
Stick, where was the tutorial on attaching the MOE vert to the rail? I can't find it. Thanks.
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The end of the world isn't in my plan, but circling the wagons is. -Andres Duany.
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[#32]
Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
No, sorry, I have those, they came with the accessories package. On the 300 it comes with 2 screws that attach it to the Surefire mount (green arrow). Those screws are different than the ones you need to mount the light to the light mount (red arrow). They aren't supplied with the light, and the CMR screws don't fit it either. http://i.imgur.com/VdWku1k.jpg View Quote The holes on the underside of Scout lights take 8-32 threaded screws. The CMR also uses 8-32 threaded holes to attach accessories. |
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[Last Edit: Buckeye67]
[#33]
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[#34]
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Stick, where was the tutorial on attaching the MOE vert to the rail? I can't find it. Thanks. View Quote Why must you call me out when you know I'm lazy? I've written it up a few times, but usually just in threads or social media. I need to write it up for RECOIL WEB or something so I can just link to it. I took a regular MOE VFG, heated it up, and crushed it slightly in a vise. This put the slight bend in it which mates up pretty perfect with the CMR rail. When you heat it and slap it in the vise, make sure you give the edges a push upwards before you start tightening it down. The vise does more to hold the shape than anything else as it cools down. Then you tighten an 8/32 CMR screw through the body of the MOE and you are GTG. I haven't got a resupply in awhile, otherwise I would just make one up for you . You've been here a long time, have a low threshold for BS and stupid people, and NB vouches for you. |
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[#35]
View Quote That setup and color looks fantastic!! Color me curious and tell me about it (please). |
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[#36]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Why must you call me out when you know I'm lazy? I've written it up a few times, but usually just in threads or social media. I need to write it up for RECOIL WEB or something so I can just link to it. I took a regular MOE VFG, heated it up, and crushed it slightly in a vise. This put the slight bend in it which mates up pretty perfect with the CMR rail. When you heat it and slap it in the vise, make sure you give the edges a push upwards before you start tightening it down. The vise does more to hold the shape than anything else as it cools down. Then you tighten an 8/32 CMR screw through the body of the MOE and you are GTG. I haven't got a resupply in awhile, otherwise I would just make one up for you . You've been here a long time, have a low threshold for BS and stupid people, and NB vouches for you. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Stick, where was the tutorial on attaching the MOE vert to the rail? I can't find it. Thanks. Why must you call me out when you know I'm lazy? I've written it up a few times, but usually just in threads or social media. I need to write it up for RECOIL WEB or something so I can just link to it. I took a regular MOE VFG, heated it up, and crushed it slightly in a vise. This put the slight bend in it which mates up pretty perfect with the CMR rail. When you heat it and slap it in the vise, make sure you give the edges a push upwards before you start tightening it down. The vise does more to hold the shape than anything else as it cools down. Then you tighten an 8/32 CMR screw through the body of the MOE and you are GTG. I haven't got a resupply in awhile, otherwise I would just make one up for you . You've been here a long time, have a low threshold for BS and stupid people, and NB vouches for you. I think I took pictures of the process when I did it, I'll dig around and see if I can find em. |
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USCG
Proud Member of Team Ranstad |
[#37]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Why must you call me out when you know I'm lazy? I've written it up a few times, but usually just in threads or social media. I need to write it up for RECOIL WEB or something so I can just link to it. I took a regular MOE VFG, heated it up, and crushed it slightly in a vise. This put the slight bend in it which mates up pretty perfect with the CMR rail. When you heat it and slap it in the vise, make sure you give the edges a push upwards before you start tightening it down. The vise does more to hold the shape than anything else as it cools down. Then you tighten an 8/32 CMR screw through the body of the MOE and you are GTG. I haven't got a resupply in awhile, otherwise I would just make one up for you . You've been here a long time, have a low threshold for BS and stupid people, and NB vouches for you. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Stick, where was the tutorial on attaching the MOE vert to the rail? I can't find it. Thanks. Why must you call me out when you know I'm lazy? I've written it up a few times, but usually just in threads or social media. I need to write it up for RECOIL WEB or something so I can just link to it. I took a regular MOE VFG, heated it up, and crushed it slightly in a vise. This put the slight bend in it which mates up pretty perfect with the CMR rail. When you heat it and slap it in the vise, make sure you give the edges a push upwards before you start tightening it down. The vise does more to hold the shape than anything else as it cools down. Then you tighten an 8/32 CMR screw through the body of the MOE and you are GTG. I haven't got a resupply in awhile, otherwise I would just make one up for you . You've been here a long time, have a low threshold for BS and stupid people, and NB vouches for you. Haha you know we've met right? You were taking pics at SHOT08 of NB in his pink shirt with the FMG. I made a comment that was against the COC Off to arrange resupply |
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The end of the world isn't in my plan, but circling the wagons is. -Andres Duany.
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[#38]
Originally Posted By Slippers:
The holes on the underside of Scout lights take 8-32 threaded screws. The CMR also uses 8-32 threaded holes to attach accessories. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Slippers:
Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
No, sorry, I have those, they came with the accessories package. On the 300 it comes with 2 screws that attach it to the Surefire mount (green arrow). Those screws are different than the ones you need to mount the light to the light mount (red arrow). They aren't supplied with the light, and the CMR screws don't fit it either. http://i.imgur.com/VdWku1k.jpg The holes on the underside of Scout lights take 8-32 threaded screws. The CMR also uses 8-32 threaded holes to attach accessories. I've tried those screws and they don't work. They don't tighten enough to keep the light from being loose. |
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[#39]
View Quote That thing is beautiful. Patriot brown? |
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[Last Edit: Buckeye67]
[#40]
Originally Posted By Stickman: That setup and color looks fantastic!! Color me curious and tell me about it (please). View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Stickman: That setup and color looks fantastic!! Color me curious and tell me about it (please). Hi, thanks Stick! I wanted this to be my "in case of complete breakdown of civilization" rifle. Here's the build details: Noveske "Chainsaw" Upper and Lower Centurion 14" CMR Rail Centurion 16" Midlength LW Barrel Centurion C4 BCG Centurion Low Profile Gas Block (Gas Block pinned by Rainier Arms) AXTS Raptor Charging Handle BCM Mod O Comp WMD Melonited Gas Tube Gen 2 Magpul MBUS Geissele ACT Trigger BCM Mod 1 Grip BCM MilSpec Reciever Extenstion Assembly Magpul STR Stock Magpul BAD Vortex Viper HS 1-24 with a Vortex Switchview Lever in a LaRue SPR-E Mount Cerakoted Patriot Brown by Ricco at Black Dove Customs (He's an awesome dude!) I managed to ding it in my overcrowded safe already though. If I can find someone who's doing a really good Ranger Green cerakote, I'll probably have it resprayed. I haven't had a chance to give it a good range test. I was able to function check it at training last month at work though, and it's a smooth shooter. I'm looking forward to seeing how well Monte's barrel shoots. |
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[#41]
Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
I've tried those screws and they don't work. They don't tighten enough to keep the light from being loose. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
Originally Posted By Slippers:
Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
No, sorry, I have those, they came with the accessories package. On the 300 it comes with 2 screws that attach it to the Surefire mount (green arrow). Those screws are different than the ones you need to mount the light to the light mount (red arrow). They aren't supplied with the light, and the CMR screws don't fit it either. http://i.imgur.com/VdWku1k.jpg The holes on the underside of Scout lights take 8-32 threaded screws. The CMR also uses 8-32 threaded holes to attach accessories. I've tried those screws and they don't work. They don't tighten enough to keep the light from being loose. Before I say anything else, this is for the Centurion Scout mount, right? If so, there should be two short screws which are for attaching the light body to the mount, and then two longer screws, which are for attaching the mount to the CMR. The longer screws will not work in the light body for the reasons you have encountered. The short screws are approximately 1/4" from tip to flat head. The longer screws should be around 3/8" from tip to flat head. If all the screws that came with your mount are the same length, then someone messed up while packing the mount and screws up. |
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[#42]
Originally Posted By Stickman: I just picked up a Vortex Razor HD II, I haven't forgotten your request! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Stickman: Originally Posted By Mopseydocks6014: Stick, I don't suppose you have a Vortex Razor 1-6 you could put on your 15" CMR picture? I just pre-ordered one and wanted to see how the razor looks on it. I just picked up a Vortex Razor HD II, I haven't forgotten your request! |
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"There has never been a sadness that can't be cured by breakfast food" - Ron Swanson
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[#43]
Originally Posted By Slippers:
Before I say anything else, this is for the Centurion Scout mount, right? If so, there should be two short screws which are for attaching the light body to the mount, and then two longer screws, which are for attaching the mount to the CMR. The longer screws will not work in the light body for the reasons you have encountered. The short screws are approximately 1/4" from tip to flat head. The longer screws should be around 3/8" from tip to flat head. If all the screws that came with your mount are the same length, then someone messed up while packing the mount and screws up. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Slippers:
Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
Originally Posted By Slippers:
Originally Posted By cjwwd2:
No, sorry, I have those, they came with the accessories package. On the 300 it comes with 2 screws that attach it to the Surefire mount (green arrow). Those screws are different than the ones you need to mount the light to the light mount (red arrow). They aren't supplied with the light, and the CMR screws don't fit it either. http://i.imgur.com/VdWku1k.jpg The holes on the underside of Scout lights take 8-32 threaded screws. The CMR also uses 8-32 threaded holes to attach accessories. I've tried those screws and they don't work. They don't tighten enough to keep the light from being loose. Before I say anything else, this is for the Centurion Scout mount, right? If so, there should be two short screws which are for attaching the light body to the mount, and then two longer screws, which are for attaching the mount to the CMR. The longer screws will not work in the light body for the reasons you have encountered. The short screws are approximately 1/4" from tip to flat head. The longer screws should be around 3/8" from tip to flat head. If all the screws that came with your mount are the same length, then someone messed up while packing the mount and screws up. Ahh..this makes sense. Will need to dig through the screws that came with and see if they are there somewhere. Thanks! |
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[#44]
@Stickman, what gas blocks do you use for all your builds with the Centurion CMR? Thanks!
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[#45]
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[#46]
Originally Posted By sscr:
@Stickman, what gas blocks do you use for all your builds with the Centurion CMR? Thanks! View Quote I like the ones from Centurion Arms, but otherwise, I tend to use whatever I have laying around. Evidently everything I get is low profile, because I've not had any of the issues others claim to have had with the GB touching. |
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[#47]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
I like the ones from Centurion Arms, but otherwise, I tend to use whatever I have laying around. Evidently everything I get is low profile, because I've not had any of the issues others claim to have had with the GB touching. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By sscr:
@Stickman, what gas blocks do you use for all your builds with the Centurion CMR? Thanks! I like the ones from Centurion Arms, but otherwise, I tend to use whatever I have laying around. Evidently everything I get is low profile, because I've not had any of the issues others claim to have had with the GB touching. Great to know, thanks! Im planning on getting a Ballistic Advantage Hansen barrel with a pinned low profile block on it and wanted to make sure it would fit. Im considering getting a pencil barrel because of one of your previous posts Stickman, decisions decisions..... |
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[#48]
I would agree that any pencil barrel will more than likely be fine. I was pushing it using a .750 Noveske barrel and a SLR Rifleworks set screw gas block. The gas block cleared on the top and bottom but the blue colored side and the screw that holds that plate on is what got extremely close to the hand guard and was touching it for a bit until i realigned everything.
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[#49]
Originally Posted By Mopseydocks6014:
I'm in no hurry. I almost have my proof research barrel paid for. It'll take some time to afford the razor then. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Mopseydocks6014:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Mopseydocks6014:
Stick, I don't suppose you have a Vortex Razor 1-6 you could put on your 15" CMR picture? I just pre-ordered one and wanted to see how the razor looks on it. I just picked up a Vortex Razor HD II, I haven't forgotten your request! If you are buying a Proof barrel, you will probably end up going through ERATHR3. Make sure you use the discount code "STICKMAN" for 10% off. That code works for I think everything but FFL items. |
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[#50]
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