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Posted: 1/18/2013 12:56:19 PM EDT
I've got a heavy barrel colt 16" upper and I want a different handguard. My ideal handguard is a 15" free float, extremely skinny guard with a tough look and the ability to add something like a Grip-pod. I have found a few, but they are expensive. For now I just want a longer handguard. I have found some factory second rifle handguards for $15, but I can't figure out how to make it fit my gun. I know I can cut my front sight down to clear, but can't figure out how to make the handguard stay in place near the front of the gun. I thought about buying another factory style gas block, but then I would have to notch the barrel for the roll pins so that it doesn't move.
That's why I'm here, what is my easiest/cheapest way to doing this? |
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How bout you give us a budget and see if it can even be done. What you asking to do is not easy and usually not cheap.
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You could try a clamp on front sight. Cheapest would probably be YHM. You would have to ensure that the new location is the correct diameter and not tapered down any.
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I've got a heavy barrel colt 16" upper and I want a different handguard. My ideal handguard is a 15" free float, extremely skinny guard with a tough look and the ability to add something like a Grip-pod. I have found a few, but they are expensive. For now I just want a longer handguard. I have found some factory second rifle handguards for $15, but I can't figure out how to make it fit my gun. I know I can cut my front sight down to clear, but can't figure out how to make the handguard stay in place near the front of the gun. I thought about buying another factory style gas block, but then I would have to notch the barrel for the roll pins so that it doesn't move. That's why I'm here, what is my easiest/cheapest way to doing this? Cheapest way? 1) remove the handguards. 2) cut off the front sight just a bit above the gas tube (you DO NOT want to mess up the gas system - get a gunsmith to do this if you don't know how). round the edges and touch up the bare metal with some cold blue. 3) (this is old school - before it was common to do it right be removing the barrel) using a dremel w/ a cutting wheel and some pliers remove the delta ring, delta ring spring, and the retaining clip on the barrel nut. 4) Puchase a Midwest Industries MCTAR-22G2 (under $200) which is a rifle length 2 piece FREE Floated 4 rail handguard or a Troy 11" Alpha Rail (round with a top rail and mounting points for other rails - under $190), 5) Mount Rail system bought in step #4 to your stock barrel nut. This can be done w/o use of a vice, blocks, or a barrel wrench. |
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How do you know it's ideal? Cause you like the looks? Unless its needed its kinda impractical. Guys that shoot guys for a living have lasers lights and IR goodies as well and a Huge night vision optic Infront of the day optic. They don't use them for looks.
Real door kickers use grip pods on carbine drop in rails all day long. Do you really need all that rail? It's a heck of alot of rail just for a grip pod. How do you hold the thing? Magwell grip or 3 gun style extended? Have a night vision clip on and an IR laser & light suite? You might use it. Just a bolted on g2 or 951? A carbine length rail works fine. On one rifle I have a 13inch alpha rail. I hold the thing pretty extended and have buis and a m600c light a hand stop and a sling mount. I'd have chosen an 12 or 11 inch rail had it not been factory installed. I giggle at guys with super long rails and nothing mounted holding the magwell. |
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How do you know it's ideal? Cause you like the looks? Unless its needed its kinda impractical. Guys that shoot guys for a living have lasers lights and IR goodies as well and a Huge night vision optic Infront of the day optic. They don't use them for looks. Real door kickers use grip pods on carbine drop in rails all day long. Do you really need all that rail? It's a heck of alot of rail just for a grip pod. How do you hold the thing? Magwell grip or 3 gun style extended? Have a night vision clip on and an IR laser & light suite? You might use it. Just a bolted on g2 or 951? A carbine length rail works fine. On one rifle I have a 13inch alpha rail. I hold the thing pretty extended and have buis and a m600c light a hand stop and a sling mount. I'd have chosen an 12 or 11 inch rail had it not been factory installed. I giggle at guys with super long rails and nothing mounted holding the magwell. No offense but, the OP was asking for direction on how to accomplish something, not what your opinion of what it will look like or how it will handle. |
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Thanks for the feedback, I don't want a 15" handguard for rails upon more rails to stack every accesory known to man. I simply like the look of a longer handguard. By ideal free float I was referring to the accuracy that most people seem to gain, but for right now a free float setup is out of the budget.
To be honest since I built my gun I haven't had a chance to shoot it, but it's most comfortable to hold it by the handguard and not by the mag. I mention the Grip-pod accesory for it's bi-pod feature, not for using it to hold while shooting. With the factory second handguards I found, they are a 12" handguard that have a look I can live with for now. (again 15" is what I would like, strictly for the look, but they are expensive) Considering I'm settling for a $15 handguard, I was hoping to get this done for no more than $30 |
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No offense but, the OP was asking for direction on how to accomplish something, not what your opinion of what it will look like or how it will handle. So we can't give out opinions? No guidance at all? Just point blank answers? Go away. |
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OP, the sight/handguard setup you are wanting is called a dissipator.
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Considering I'm settling for a $15 handguard, I was hoping to get this done for no more than $30 You're getting a $15 FREE FLOAT handguard? I don't think so. |
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Considering I'm settling for a $15 handguard, I was hoping to get this done for no more than $30 You're getting a $15 FREE FLOAT handguard? I don't think so. No, it's a standard rifle handguard. I said I would like a free float, but it's out of the budget. |
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No offense but, the OP was asking for direction on how to accomplish something, not what your opinion of what it will look like or how it will handle. So we can't give out opinions? No guidance at all? Just point blank answers? Go away. Your answer was akin to someone asking what relish they want on their Hotdog and you expounding on the virtues of a Labrador Retriever instead of a Poodle for duck hunting. Dogs...yes, Species....not so much. |
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Considering I'm settling for a $15 handguard, I was hoping to get this done for no more than $30 You're getting a $15 FREE FLOAT handguard? I don't think so. No, it's a standard rifle handguard. I said I would like a free float, but it's out of the budget. How do you plan on installing it with not only the front sight base in the way, but no handguard cap at the required location? |
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Considering I'm settling for a $15 handguard, I was hoping to get this done for no more than $30 You're getting a $15 FREE FLOAT handguard? I don't think so. No, it's a standard rifle handguard. I said I would like a free float, but it's out of the budget. How do you plan on installing it with not only the front sight base in the way, but no handguard cap at the required location? That's why I'm here, to see what suggestions you guys have. I know I'll have to cut my front sight to get the handguard to clear, but I'm not sure how to hold the front end of the handguard on or even if it can be done. |
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I'm with you on a clean long hand guard look
I picked up a DPMS on the cheap http://dpmsinc.com/Standard-Length-Free-Float-Tube_p_308.html List price is 54.00 Not some premium brand name but gets the job done Mike |
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Quoted: Yup, but it's not going to happen. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Considering I'm settling for a $15 handguard, I was hoping to get this done for no more than $30 You're getting a $15 FREE FLOAT handguard? I don't think so. No, it's a standard rifle handguard. I said I would like a free float, but it's out of the budget. How do you plan on installing it with not only the front sight base in the way, but no handguard cap at the required location? That's why I'm here, to see what suggestions you guys have. I know I'll have to cut my front sight to get the handguard to clear, but I'm not sure how to hold the front end of the handguard on or even if it can be done. It can be done. But not for $30. |
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its going to cost more than 30.00 . remove the front sight and hand guard cap . install a low profile gas block . then buy a front sight that uses set screws instead of roll pins , install the hand guard cap then the front sight to the proper length for the handguard.
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Cheapest way I would do it is this.
1. Remove front sight and handguard cap. 2. Cut down factory front sight to make a low profile gas block. 3. Go to Brownells and buy this gas block 100-005-339WB Low-Profile, Clamp, Steel $38.07 or any other CLAMP on style gas block. 4. Put the chopped front sight back on. 5. Buy a roll pin to put in the clamp on sty;e gas blocks gas tube hole. 6. Put handguard cap on behind the clamp on gas block and use the roll pin to keep the cap still. 7. Install handguards. You are basically building a no front sight dissapator. You could probably even use a lower quality clamp on style gas block as well, but do use a clamp on an dnot a set screw block. The clamp on will do a better job of staying put and keeping the handguard in place. |
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No offense but, the OP was asking for direction on how to accomplish something, not what your opinion of what it will look like or how it will handle. So we can't give out opinions? No guidance at all? Just point blank answers? Go away. Your answer was akin to someone asking what relish they want on their Hotdog and you expounding on the virtues of a Labrador Retriever instead of a Poodle for duck hunting. Dogs...yes, Species....not so much. It's valid. OP has a perfectly serviceable rifle. He hasn't even shot the thing. He wants looks and that's perfectly fine. he might be better off thinking about what he wants out of this build as far as use and need versus how it looks. Hell with the money available he can't even do it, maybe me pointing out that what he has is just great as is might make him sleep better about it. |
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Really...
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No offense but, the OP was asking for direction on how to accomplish something, not what your opinion of what it will look like or how it will handle. So we can't give out opinions? No guidance at all? Just point blank answers? Go away. Your answer was akin to someone asking what relish they want on their Hotdog and you expounding on the virtues of a Labrador Retriever instead of a Poodle for duck hunting. Dogs...yes, Species....not so much. It's valid. OP has a perfectly serviceable rifle. He hasn't even shot the thing. He wants looks and that's perfectly fine. he might be better off thinking about what he wants out of this build as far as use and need versus how it looks. Hell with the money available he can't even do it, maybe me pointing out that what he has is just great as is might make him sleep better about it. Your first response, although valid was not pertinent to the question. Your second one..... a little rambling. |
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You need to have a professional work on your rifle since you seem to have no idea how they work.
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I've got a heavy barrel colt 16" upper and I want a different handguard. My ideal handguard is a 15" free float, extremely skinny guard with a tough look and the ability to add something like a Grip-pod. I have found a few, but they are expensive. For now I just want a longer handguard. I have found some factory second rifle handguards for $15, but I can't figure out how to make it fit my gun. I know I can cut my front sight down to clear, but can't figure out how to make the handguard stay in place near the front of the gun. I thought about buying another factory style gas block, but then I would have to notch the barrel for the roll pins so that it doesn't move. That's why I'm here, what is my easiest/cheapest way to doing this? for $190, you can do this: Cut down factory front sight to make a low profile gas block. add Troy Alpha Rail 15 inches free float. http://www.predatorarmament.com/troy-alpha-rail-11-13-15-inches-no-sight/ |
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OP, the sight/handguard setup you are wanting is called a dissipator. Yep. (stolen pix by Stickman from here: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?2567-BCM-Dissipator-Yes-or-No) http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/BCM/868W9692-1024-Stick.jpg http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/BCM/868W9695-1024-Stick.jpg This is exactly what I want. |
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You need to have a professional work on your rifle since you seem to have no idea how they work. That's why there's a thing called forums. He's asking questions to learn. |
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OP, the sight/handguard setup you are wanting is called a dissipator. Yep. (stolen pix by Stickman from here: http://www.weaponevolution.com/forum/showthread.php?2567-BCM-Dissipator-Yes-or-No) http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/BCM/868W9692-1024-Stick.jpg http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/BCM/868W9695-1024-Stick.jpg This is exactly what I want. I would recommend the Armalite Clamp on FSB. If you want a flip up type the YHM ones come up on the EE for around $65-70 shipped from time to time. |
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I too like the looks of a long, non-railed handguard. Good thread OP, I had not heard of a dissipator, now I know. If you get it done, please post pics.
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For about a hundred dollars more than the final cost of this project you could outright buy a dissapator upper. If you sold your current upper without a BCG it would probably finance it too. Or find somebody on the EE that hates their dissapator upper and trade with them.
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What I did:
I took a brand new YHM stripped 16" barrel and installed a low profile gas block over the gas port. Then I took an A2 front sight base and tapped two holes into the bottom. The first hole was already drilled to accommodate the gas port, it was the same size as a number 27 drill bit. I drilled the second hole into the bayonet mount with a #26 drill bit and then tapped both holes to 10-24 threads. I added a 10-24 set screw to each newly tapped hole and installed the FSB onto the barrel at 12 3/4", rifle length. There is a pay it forward thread in GD, somebody in there is offering up a free A2 FSB, so grab it and cut down your front sight, dremel off your handguard cap, get a new handguard cap, and go! Total cost? About 30 bucks plus shipping if you have to buy a tap and drill. Or, trade me your carbine length handguards, and I'll send you back two set screws, a tap, and a #26 drill. I can always use trading stock lol. |
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What I did: I took a brand new YHM stripped 16" barrel and installed a low profile gas block over the gas port. Then I took an A2 front sight base and tapped two holes into the bottom. The first hole was already drilled to accommodate the gas port, it was the same size as a number 27 drill bit. I drilled the second hole into the bayonet mount with a #26 drill bit and then tapped both holes to 10-24 threads. I added a 10-24 set screw to each newly tapped hole and installed the FSB onto the barrel at 12 3/4", rifle length. There is a pay it forward thread in GD, somebody in there is offering up a free A2 FSB, so grab it and cut down your front sight, dremel off your handguard cap, get a new handguard cap, and go! Total cost? About 30 bucks plus shipping if you have to buy a tap and drill. Or, trade me your carbine length handguards, and I'll send you back two set screws, a tap, and a #26 drill. I can always use trading stock lol. I knew there were options and yet everybody kept telling me it couldn't be done. THANKS!!! Could someone please point me toward this "pay it forward" thread with the A2 FSB? |
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Quoted: Quoted: What I did: I took a brand new YHM stripped 16" barrel and installed a low profile gas block over the gas port. Then I took an A2 front sight base and tapped two holes into the bottom. The first hole was already drilled to accommodate the gas port, it was the same size as a number 27 drill bit. I drilled the second hole into the bayonet mount with a #26 drill bit and then tapped both holes to 10-24 threads. I added a 10-24 set screw to each newly tapped hole and installed the FSB onto the barrel at 12 3/4", rifle length. There is a pay it forward thread in GD, somebody in there is offering up a free A2 FSB, so grab it and cut down your front sight, dremel off your handguard cap, get a new handguard cap, and go! Total cost? About 30 bucks plus shipping if you have to buy a tap and drill. Or, trade me your carbine length handguards, and I'll send you back two set screws, a tap, and a #26 drill. I can always use trading stock lol. I knew there were options and yet everybody kept telling me it couldn't be done. THANKS!!! Could someone please point me toward this "pay it forward" thread with the A2 FSB? |
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What I did: I took a brand new YHM stripped 16" barrel and installed a low profile gas block over the gas port. Then I took an A2 front sight base and tapped two holes into the bottom. The first hole was already drilled to accommodate the gas port, it was the same size as a number 27 drill bit. I drilled the second hole into the bayonet mount with a #26 drill bit and then tapped both holes to 10-24 threads. I added a 10-24 set screw to each newly tapped hole and installed the FSB onto the barrel at 12 3/4", rifle length. There is a pay it forward thread in GD, somebody in there is offering up a free A2 FSB, so grab it and cut down your front sight, dremel off your handguard cap, get a new handguard cap, and go! Total cost? About 30 bucks plus shipping if you have to buy a tap and drill. Or, trade me your carbine length handguards, and I'll send you back two set screws, a tap, and a #26 drill. I can always use trading stock lol. I knew there were options and yet everybody kept telling me it couldn't be done. THANKS!!! Could someone please point me toward this "pay it forward" thread with the A2 FSB? Fair enough, I might have to go $45, but I'm ok with that. Even if the free one is gone, where would be the cheapest place to buy one? |
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