nothing to do w/ the fact its 'polymer'; there are good, quality made polymers (liek Glock, xds, HKs, etc) and shitty ones (like ones posted in this review)P

like there is shitty alumunium and quliaiyt made aluminum used in quality made ARs. made in china shit pot metal knock offs POS products sold in wally world doesnt compare to simliar devices of better qualiyt sold elsewhere; same w polymer in guns

To add to what's already said, the design of a product also relates to it's durability.  Polymer framed pistols are designed from the ground up around the strengths and weaknesses of the polymer used.  If you look at a Cav Arms lower or the SCAR lowers, they are not exact copies of an Ar lower.  Areas of weakness (thin material around rear takedown pin)  have either been redesigned or omitted respectively.

Update: Got the Lower back from ATI. Following is a direct quote, "All ATIGLOW100's have that hole in the mag well. It is a mark from the mold. The hole has no affect on the function of the lower."

ALSO upon further inspection, noticed a hole a little smaller than a BB to the same cavity, but from the well for the trigger/hammer. So basically you can put a piece of wire straight through the mag-well, through the mag-release hole, and into the trigger/hammer area.
Yeah, I'd LOVE to get a bunch of dirt in them. I'm sure it would not "affect the function on the lower."

I understand that dirt can get into these places in other ways, but creating more avenues for malfunction is a bad idea, especially if it already has the deck stacked against it, as polymers do.

So pretty much ATI gets a no go from me.

Update:
Hole from Trigger/Hammer side
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/4993071/AR15/SAM_0086.JPG

View through mag-release lever hole.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/4993071/AR15/SAM_0093.JPG

Hole again from mag-well.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/4993071/AR15/SAM_0087.JPG

While I was at it I got a better view of the frayed threads.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/4993071/AR15/SAM_0096.JPG

Very informative. Thanks for taking the time to review these two. I'm not particularly crazy about the polymer lowers (and no, it's not for the same reasons that Glock went through). I've transfered numerous New Frontier poly lowers, and just don't like the way they feel at all. I'm an active duty Marine full time, and a firearm dealer (Cook's Calibers, LLC) part-time. The polys are new to me, but I've been seeing a lot of them due to the lack of availability of the aluminums. I've noticed with the NFA lowers that a lot of "flash" remains on their lowers around the edges. Apparently the QA for these are going out the window somewhat as they are trying to provide more quantity vice quality. I wouldn't mind a polymer lower if they took the time to be professional with them. If they would put forth the same effort as Glock or Ruger, then that would be great! However, the finishes on NFA (and apparently ATI Omni) are comparable to a public park child's slide, and aside from wiping arses, I'm not sure I'd use these lowers for much more. Overall, a little more effort and attention to detail, and I think these companies might be onto something. Oh, and NFA's logo is horrible. I was thinking that maybe I could just Cerakote over these to make them look halfway decent, but you can't hide that huge friggen sales banner on the side. Pick a kickass company logo, or shrink the "advertisement". And that's my two cents.

I have 3 NFA lowers, and happy with them so far, but your are 100% on with that large logo of theirs - it has got to go.

I picked up one of the stripped ATI lowers when they were $39 with free Shipping last October. Have any of you guys put one together yet? For that price I figured I would get one and worry about it later on.

Small piece of paper included in the box states:

Attention!  Receiver threads are manufactured to military specifications. Use of non mil-spec buffer tubes or stocks may cause severe damage to your OMNI receiver.


I test fitted a mil-spec buffer tube i purchased from BRAVO Company last week, and the tube is very loose until the castle nut is tightened. Not too sure about that. Any suggestions or has anybody else ran into that issue yet ?
Either the threads are not right or the tube I got (was advertised as mil-spec) is not right.

are the threads on the nfa lower mil spec or commercial?

I put one on recently and it was no problem using Magpul MOE milspec tube.  Undid the factory (NFA) buffer tube and put on the new one.  Worked fine  Don't remember it being excessively lose.

Not everyone is that lucky on their transfer fee.  Mine is $20-$25 depending on the dealer's mood that day.

I know they are lighter but I just have no desire to own one.


OP: If $15 is a huge difference to some then how can that same person even afford to shoot the thing?  Back in the day shooting and guns was a cheap(ish) hobby but that is not the case today.  The AR15 in particular has never been a cheap gun to buy or to shoot though.  If cheap is a requirement then money is better spent on an AK.

A rifle is a rifle and a handgun is a handgun.

My Dad told me stories of using M16's as makeshift little bridges that they used to walk across while in the service shortly after the M16 was transitioned to.  I don't think that the NFA or any polymer lower could take that stress at the front pivot pin point or the buffer tube threads (if they have them and aren't a complete assembly like the CavArms) but I could be wrong.  Rifles get abused WAY more than handguns on a daily basis.

In 20 years after I see a polymer lower that is still in service (like a Glock) and has been abused I may come around but until then I am set in my ways

NFA has a torture test posted on YouTube which shows someone standing on a lower to get into a pickup truck bed.  They also throw it a long distance and there are no problems.  I can't decide if this is worth trying for $80 for a 22LR build or just pass and wait for a forged one.