Who can drill, tap, and install a rear tension screw in my lower receiver? - Page 1

AR-15 » AR Discussions

AR Sponsor:

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Who can drill, tap, and install a rear tension screw in my lower receiver?

Posted: 7/27/2016 7:15:21 PM EDT

I have an older SBR lower receiver and I want to eliminate the "wobble".

Being that it's an SBR lower, I need a perfect job done.

Who can do me a solid professional job?

Posted: 7/27/2016 7:30:10 PM EDT

[#1]

+1. Interested to hear what people come up with. I wouldn't mind buying a tap and die set if I could do this to all of mine.

Posted: 7/27/2016 7:42:57 PM EDT

[#2]

You being in GA, I would see if Rudy can do it. Hes on here as Mad-Machinist. Or you can google Macon armory and contact him that way. He would be the guy I would have in mind for this project.

Posted: 7/27/2016 10:21:38 PM EDT

[#3]

Why does an accu-wedge not address your concerns? The remove whatever wobble I have noticed quite well.

Posted: 7/27/2016 10:23:51 PM EDT

[#4]

+1, I've got one lower that is just chock full of wobble compared to everything else I have, drives me nuts.

Posted: 7/27/2016 11:55:09 PM EDT

[#5]

It really does not matter if it wobbles or not, that does not effect the accuracy. I guess if it is a personal preference an accuwedge would help take out the wobble or use a foam ear plug between upper and lower and tear off the extra. I did that while in the army to make my weapon less noisy. That thing was a hunk of junk that was a remarked A1 with round handguards installed and a 3-rd burst.

It rattled like a can full of marbles and drove me nuts until we finally got our actual A2's in.

Posted: 7/28/2016 12:28:21 AM EDT

[#6]

Quote History

Quoted:
It really does not matter if it wobbles or not, that does not effect the accuracy. I guess if it is a personal preference an accuwedge would help take out the wobble or use a foam ear plug between upper and lower and tear off the extra. I did that while in the army to make my weapon less noisy. That thing was a hunk of junk that was a remarked A1 with round handguards installed and a 3-rd burst.

It rattled like a can full of marbles and drove me nuts until we finally got our actual A2's in.

View Quote

I'd think by now, that the vast majority of us know that it doesn't truly matter much, but damn, it eats away at me in a fierce way.

Posted: 7/28/2016 12:39:55 AM EDT

[#7]

Quote History

Quoted:

I'd think by now, that the vast majority of us know that it doesn't truly matter much, but damn, it eats away at me in a fierce way.

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
It really does not matter if it wobbles or not, that does not effect the accuracy. I guess if it is a personal preference an accuwedge would help take out the wobble or use a foam ear plug between upper and lower and tear off the extra. I did that while in the army to make my weapon less noisy. That thing was a hunk of junk that was a remarked A1 with round handguards installed and a 3-rd burst.

It rattled like a can full of marbles and drove me nuts until we finally got our actual A2's in.

I'd think by now, that the vast majority of us know that it doesn't truly matter much, but damn, it eats away at me in a fierce way.

Someone makes a shim kit to shim between the frame and upper. The shim boxes the post the rear pin goes through IIRC.

Posted: 7/28/2016 12:50:34 AM EDT

[#8]

OP,
I would talk with ADCO and maybe ping Stickman at Rainier.

My most recent lowers from AeroP have them and it does not look hard. A good drill press with tap would do it.
If you want to keep it close to home but have not seen it , maybe buy a current AeroP lower and use it as a pattern with your local smith.

If I had a loose lower I would probably use an accuwedge or earplug and call it good. Or do what you are doing, maybe be willing to sacrifice it to the Goddess of Learning with a local smith.

Posted: 7/28/2016 1:33:51 AM EDT

[#9]

you can drill a hole in the rear hole of the upper at the bottom and install a set screw. tap hole and install a short allen screw, put some loctite and adjust till the rear pin will go in with a little drag. this will pull the upper tight with the lower.

Posted: 7/28/2016 7:47:16 AM EDT

[#10]

If the Accu-Wedge won't do it for you, in the "olden days" I "glass-bedded" the rear lugs (being careful to treat the rear lug with mold release compound) while holding the upper and lower together just "almost" closed all the way...

Posted: 7/28/2016 8:17:48 AM EDT

[#11]

This is why I bought another Mega Arms ambidextrous billet lower, they will already perfectly machine come with this as standard equipment

Posted: 7/28/2016 8:23:43 AM EDT

[#12]

You can do it yourself fairly easily.

Instead of drilling "up" from the angled grip attachment point, drill "down" from the top. There's plenty of flat space for you to get a good bite with a drill bit without it walking, and then you can follow that up with a tap.

It's a 10 minute job if you're mechanically inclined.

Posted: 7/28/2016 11:11:48 AM EDT

[#13]

Foam earplug or accuwedge does a good job of removing that slop without making modifications to the rifle itself, all my deployed buddies with their beat to shit high round count issue rifles swear by this method. For a really bad wobble you can get a thin o-ring and put it around the front takedown lug as well as using a foam earplug under the rear lug.

Posted: 7/28/2016 2:29:49 PM EDT

[#14]

I understand you trepidation's being its a registered lower. However, this is extremely easy to do with basic mechanical skills. I can send you pictures of my Mega with said screw in it for reference, but all you're doing is drilling a hole and running an appropriate tap into aluminum. Finding polymer tipped allen screws will be harder than the job itself if you have access to a buddies drill press.

Having said all that, I'd try others recommendations first. Accu-wedge, foam and o-rings, and the like.