I put the bolt carrier group parts in this gun.

Submitted my first Form 1 for my BCM lower. Going 9" 300 BLK. Oh hell yea!!

Now, you've gone and done it...

Removed metal.  

Bought a new Stretch 16 barrel and decided I wanted a set set screw gas block rather than the clamp on that came with it.  Problem was that the BCM .750 block wouldn't push onto the shelf.  Picked up a brake cylinder hone and reamed the gas block out slightly, now it fits fine.

Also have an upper that wouldn't fit windowed M2/MOE PMAGs.  I'm not swapping out a couple dozen mags for one lower.  Chalked up one of the offending mags, inserted and removed it a couple times and started carefully filing in the mag well where the chalk showed interference.  Lots of slow filing later the lower now works with all of my magazines.

Put another home made BumpSAW together.

Cool

Shaved the nub on an extra A2. I'm happy with it.

Replaced the A2 stock with the Luth-AR stock.



I'm trying to turn this into a .5MOA shooter.  .68MOA isn't cutting it


I've bedded the barrel and corrected the feed ramps mismatch since the last time I shot the MOA challenge. I still want to tighten the upper to lower fit, but I haven't decided which method to use.

Ordered an ASE Ultra JET-Z Compact BoreLock Suppressor and flash hider for my AR15.

Unfortunately AAC won't ship suppressors outside the US - so I will remove their excellent 51T flash eliminator and replace it with the ASE equivalent.  

Will post a picture when they arrive and I have installed them.

Received my AIM lightweight NIB BCG and finished this upper.

14.5 Spike's midlength pencil barrel
Noveske NSR-11
Anderson CH with Strike Industries extended latch
YHM 5.56 QD FH
Mag Tactical upper with Schuster Plug and Strike Industries Ejection Cover

Sitting on my LMT SBR lower for now until I get the FH pinned and welded, then it will reside on a Mag Tactical lower with either a MOE or CAR stock.




I also finished this gun out for a friend of mine.

I put 1000 or so rounds down range today. Didn't take long

I put my EE-sourced Larue mount on an H1 to replace the eotech that used to be on my 5.56 SBR.

Installed a Magpul RVG onto my CMR and swapped the B5 SOPMOD for a STR.

Yeah! GIT SUM!





Later in the morning, I'm gonna let some Juniors crank the knobs at a full size XTC range for the first time.





 

I always get a kick out of your bump vids

Make's me wonder if they make bump stocks for lefties, then I could pick skilletsUSMC's brain for mods and stuff.

There is a southpaw variant of a Slidefire Stock.

Great. You degenerates are costing me some serious money. I have no more room for any long gun in my safe, but oooooo, a 9x19 shorty SBR will fit

Ooooooo, I can do a Palmetto under $200 assembled upper and try to do a cheap car rifle for as close as I can for $300 give or take and not care about using krylon

But wait, now I can possibly do a bump stock and try to squeeze in one more SBR, I'll just move a .22 bolt gun out

Did I mention I already have a Colt M16A1 finally that took forever to get permission to bring her home, and for the life of me I cannot understand why I want to do a bump fire SBR

I'm glad you enjoy them. This video was a binary trigger though. In the third position it fires on both pull and release.  I'll try and get some more videos posted later. I've got another bump setup that I put a few rounds through. I also shot a lot more on binary.

 


Unfortunately the gas key on my AIM BCG came loose which caused a lot of issues for me. Thankfully I was able to swap my Rhino LW carrier in and get back to shooting once I found the problem.


 

Oh, right on.  I need to get back into the FA thread and check your latest info on that trigger.

Here is another video from yesterday.

I added a Hogan Gold Standard drop in trigger (4.5lb), KNS anti-rotation pins (came free with the trigger) and added a Primary Arms 2.5X ACSS illuminated prism scope.

Loosely assembled some uppers with a minor amount of reconfiguring and will be milling the URX2 like a KAC SR-16 CQB.  The barrel and BCG are KAC SR-15 M4 items, and the Noveske NSR cutout rail I did a year ago is going to becoming a 14.5" pinned and welded upper.  It is currently 16.1 and the FSB that is sitting on it isn't the one that it will end up with.  I have the original one to that barrel---I just did a mock up and played around with it just to make sure I would like it.

Those look pretty nice!

 

I got some more clips from my Binary trigger uploaded.

I did shoot this with my new BumpSAW lower.  Some of the splits were as low as .04 seconds (1500RPM).

 

Successfully tapped another taper pin hole in a FSB and barrel using a 6-32.

I had kept the front pin in to maintain alignment and did the rear pin tonight.  Tomorrow I will get the front pin done and cut off the sling swivel from the FSB.

Examined my failed AIM LW gas key.  AIM has offered to replace it, but I don't want to pay the shipping back, so I will probably do the repair myself.


The staking looked good, but it appears to have missed the ribs in the screws.  The front screw is captured by the staking and won't come out of the key.  Both screws were loose when I found the problem.

I just got this video uploaded of my friend shooting 900RPM with my BumpSAW.

Post some pics of this, please.  I am interested

The reason I did this is because I've previously had a KAC SR-15 M4 barrel that was cut to 11.5" and in order to get this 1 piece rail to work, I had to install the FSB inside the rail first, then put the gas tube in, and slide everything on to the upper.

I stole that 11.5" barrel for a SR-16 CQB clone and picked up another KAC SR-15 M4 barrel with a FSB that is going to become a 14.5 with a pinned and welded brake.

I installed another Ruger 452 FCG and pistol grip on a Black Rain lower.

The gun has a nickel boron coated buffer tube and an ALG EMR MLOK 13" handguard over a Critical Capabilities middy stainless barrel. The Anderson upper receiver is cerakoted and should smooth out even more over time. The CH has a PRI enlarged latch similar to a BCM Mod4.

For now, it will have a MOE stock but I will keep my eyes peeled for a stealth gray, OD, or foliage green ACS.

I'm not sure what optic I'm going with but the gun seems to lean toward a RDS.




ETA:
I also put a bunch of Strike Industries latches on some CHs today.

I ordered some torx head gas key screws. I also received my order of Permatex no3 sealant and high heat thread locker. I just need to get my AIM carrier cleaned up for reinstallation.

I got the gas block in for my 11.5" KAC SR-15 M4 build and it won't allow the URX2 10.75" to fit since the gas block has too much material under it.

I grabbed some shorter screws out of another low profile gas block because I think I'm going to have to mill off some of the bottom of this block for clearance.  I'll do that the same time I take the rail to be milled.

Installed some OD Green MLOK panels on my ALG handguard.

One of the many projects I have going.

Installed some KNS pins and my CMC 3.5 flat bow trigger in this lower.







And then I promptly mocked it up with several different optics just to see how they looked.

I made my mil spec trigger awesome. I didn't expect the results I got. I sanded the surfaces that catch on the trigger and hammer with 600 then 1500 grit sand paper. The sear and sear notch I think. I used the 600 to remove the scratches and the 1500 to bring it to a shine. I was very careful not to round the edges as I hear that can lead to jail. I also bent one leg of the hammer spring up to reduce the pull weight of the trigger. I used a small set screw in the grip screw hole to take up most of the creep. I have seen videos online of people who got better results than I did with the creep but my disconnect was not allowing the hammer to reset so I had to back the set screw off a little. I put a little lube on it all and I really can't believe how smooth and crisp this mil spec trigger is now. I think I will still buy the velocity trigger I want but am really impressed with what you can do with a little time and effort.

Love my Razor.  Wishing she wasn't such a heavy whore!   I am trying to stay away from looking at the new ones!

Looks good

You should give the ALG QMS trigger a try in your next gun, or when this polished one doubles on you

Is it sort of in inevitable that the mill spec polish trigger will eventually let off 2 or more rounds on you? I feel that I was very careful not to remove more material than was absolutely necessary to smooth the surface. I did do this by hand and checked the surface many many times through the process so I didn't go too far. Thanks for the suggestion on the aftermarket trigger. Have you used any others? Does the one you suggested offer any significant improvement over the velocity. Had any experience with the triggertech with the "friction free" setup?

Installed my Monopod today works pretty nice and very solid.

I received my SR-15 M4 upper from geno and proceeded to mock up my 11.5" upper plans without the barrel.

I tested out of my unused Noveske lowers and found the fit and alignment to the upper to be excellent.

Next step for this one is to mill the rail off like a SR-16 CQB so I can put some URX panels to good use.

I installed a Teardrop FA today! Clone goodness!

Ohhhh, yes.  I want me some SR15 11.5" action.  That will likely be my next purchase.  Does Geno sell complete 11.5 KAC uppers?

I'm not sure if he's ever sold one.  I purchased the barrel a while ago and cut it to 11.5 so I could use a Noveske NSR-11 and do a FSB cutout.

When I picked up that URX2 from M4C for $140 I started thinking I'd want to make a Costa type gun but kept bouncing the idea around in my mind that I'd do a SR-16 CQB clone and I started scouring the web for people who had milled their rails.  When I saw what they'd done, I knew that would be the direction I was going to take.

Fast forward to the last couple weeks, geno had listed some SR-15 M4 barrels and I bought them both and was offered a SR-15 M4 upper receiver.  When it arrived I started looking at my lowers that I thought would be a good fit, and this Noveske N4 just nailed it.

Once I have the time to get the rail milled, I'm going to do several barrel threading jobs and a lot of pinning and welding at Snipe Custom Arms in Lexington, Ky.

George and Christian are the partners in the business and do incredibly good work.

Hopefully Thursday this week I will be taking these projects there to get as close to completion as possible:

1. Remove SF brake from this gun and pin and weld one of my YHM brakes


2. Pin and weld above brake on an upper I'm building right now with a Spike's 14.5" barrel, Osprey piston kit, and FDE Aero upper with keymod rail

3. Cut, thread, and pin and weld another brake on this gun----why?  The threads are something coarse, like 1/2-20 and the barrel is presently 16.1" with the closed bolt.  It will be threaded 1/2-28 at 14-14.5" to keep it as compact as possible.  The brakes I'm using are YHM 4302 muzzle brakes and have enough length to be able to be installed on a 14" barrel and pinned and welded to get past 16" OAL.

That gun is very much a mutt in that it has a Colt SR lower I picked up from Copes last year for $100, a genuine Colt slickside carrier (no F/A notches) and is riding in an Anderson upper with the Noveske NSR-11 I cut for a carbine position FSB.  The way the sight tower is installed is via tapped pin holes with a 6-32 tap so I can put setscrews in.



4. Receive another KAC URXIII Rifle Length handguard in the mail (hopefully tomorrow) and get another of my SR-15 M4 barrels cut to 14.5 installed along with some tool steel barrel nuts from dwilsonmfg.

5. Hopefully my payment for another 13.5" URX 3.1 gets delivered quickly because I have a Compass lake barrel and intermediate gas tube coming from Gamma762 which will be a 'LPR' clone of sorts.

6. pin and weld a YHM FH to a Spike's 14.5" middy barrel that is installed on a Mag Tactical receiver.  It'll be a very lightweight rifle with Magpul sights.  I'm pretty sure it will end up right at 5.5 pounds with a BCM KAG and some BCM keymod panels.

Plus I have bolt carrier groups coming for many of the above guns

Yesterday I drilled my barrel for gas block set screws, then assembled the upper for my new rifle.  No pics because I don't have the final optic mounted yet, and the ring setup has been cobbled together in an extremely ghetto fashion with spare parts.

Today I took my new rifle to the range for its maiden flight.  And I experienced some odd FTF.  Ejection was fine, but feeding with an old 20 round straight PMAG was inconsistent.  It would feed first round but then none after, regardless of attempted cycles by hand.  The other mag I tried, an M3 20 rounder fed fine.  I got it sighted in with a 50 yard zero and it was a single ragged hole.  This was from a bench.

So I wandered down to our steel range and fired about 100 rounds pretty quickly.  2 different 30 rounders, 2 different 20 rounders (including the offending mag from the bench session) with no FTF.  I am guessing that this rifle just needed a bit of break-in, as both the upper and lower have had tighter tolerances than I'm used to, and the cerakote finish is rougher than the anodized uppers and lowers I've had in the past.

Also, tried the Magpul MBUS Pro offsets I put on, and was ringing the steel without problem.

When you use sand paper instead of a stone, I think "yes, you'll eventually double" is an accurate statement.  It is virtually impossible to keep sandpaper square and flat on a sear surface, and 600 grit paper WILL remove much of the case hardened sear surface.  That means that the engagement surfaces will wear through the hardened layer and no longer safely engage - leading to doubles or worse.

The only "probably won't send you to jail" technique for smoothing sear surfaces is to use the absolutely finest hone stones you can get and to use them with a jig that aligns both the part and the stone.  You need the jig - it's the only way to ensure that the stone stays flat to the sear surfaces.  If you ONLY do a single stroke at a time with ONLY the pressure of the weight of the stone, you can get away with manually lapping the engagement surfaces.

The safest way to clean up a trigger is to apply extra oil and to dry fire the living crap out of it.  Those hammer blocks that install in the mag we'll help with that.

I find that stock triggers aren't "horrible" if I install them correctly.  First, CLEAN THE NEW PARTS.  They don't come with a gun lube on them, they come with a coating to keep them from corroding, and that needs to be completely removed.  Then, lube the parts liberally. Then, as you install the trigger and disconnector, apply a light grease inside the pin bore, and do the same with the hammer's pin bore.  Once you've done that, the new trigger will have almost none of the legendary "gritty, crappy, heavy" feel everyone has heard about.

You probably did as much to make the trigger feel better by simply bending that hammer spring leg as by sanding your sear surfaces.  Reducing the hammer spring pressure ALWAYS reduces the perceived trigger weight, but in doing so it also reduces the perceived grit and drag.

I highly recommend the ALG ACT trigger.  ALG uses high quality raw parts, and polishes the engagement surfaces precisely.  The ACT also has a fancy low-friction coating that makes it feel really smooth.  Even though the ACT is rated at =5.5 pounds pull, mine "feel" much lighter because of how smooth they are.  Both of my SBRs have ACTs.  A bunch of other vendors have triggers that follow ALG's lead; PSA (Enhanced Polished Trigger)  and Spikes (Enhanced Battle Trigger) both sell well thought of triggers modeled on or similar to the ACT, but both are more expensive than the ACT.

Is that stock a NJ mandated feature?

Is that stock a NJ mandated feature?


NJ mandated rifle stock laws make no sense what so ever.I had this rifle shipped from Texas to my local gun shop for transfer,paid to have the muzzle brake pinned and welded,the adjustable butt stock pinned and told the dealer to remove the 30 round magazine.Well he  only did one item out of the three, when my dealer open the box in his shop he yelled out illegal gun.He confiscated the butt stock and magazine and sold me a Magpul  carbine fixed stock.

The funny part of the law here is that the adjustable stock when fully collapsed to the shortest length is the exact same length as the Magpul fix stock which is legal.The basis of the stock law is so you can't conceal the rifle by collapsing the stock,I guess the lawmakers don't mind the short fixed stocks ????????

That aside I got the XLR stock because of the adjustability and that the  fixed Magpul stock are just to short for a proper length of pull for me.Its a long rifle so the collapsable stock isn't that important to me, again being in NJ we aren't allowed to have those incredibility kool short barrels rifles either where a collapsable stock is a must .

Every now and then we take a car ride to those free states just to feel how it must be to have 2A rights.

Finished assembling the "wifle":





Started with a Troy carbine, installed purple Hogue grip and stock, and purple ALG Defense rail in place of the Troy Alpha Rail (gas block removal was a pita because of how much loctite had spread around between the block and the barrel).  The room lights highlight the color differences, but it's not as apparent in person.

ALG ACT trigger

Holosun red dot and laser combo

Magpul BUIS (the removed Troy Alpha Rail had an integrated front sight, so it and the Troy rear sight are moving to my AR).

Happy wife, happy life. ;)

Bcm makes one as well.