I just called and the not-particularly-helpful guy on the phone said no lowers, just the gen 1s with no dust cover. I'm not sure if he's accurate, though.

on March 26 i got a note from Brownells saying they were in stock... no idea what might be left...

yep in stock at Brownells

Guys, would a technically capable (I can take apart/put together pistols, no problem) newb be able to assemble a lower + other parts or would I need to take the parts to a pro? I am torn between getting a finished scr or putting one together.

"technically capable" certainly has some latitude in the definition .. but i would def. say yes

The upper is the same as on any AR, the only exception being the carrier, itself.  Many technically capable amateurs (not professional gun smiths) have successfully assembled their own AR uppers for decades, now.  Basically, there are four things that must be done: (1) turn the bolt carrier into a bolt carrier group, (2) attach the barrel to the upper, using your selected handguard's barrel nut, (3) install the gas block/tube, and (4) attach the hanguard.  

Completing a bolt carrier group from the carrier, bolt, cam pin and firing pin (note: the retaining pin on an SCR is actually the pin that holds the "rat tail" onto the carrier) is very simple.  Watch a YouTube video or two on the AR bolt carrier.  You'll need these steps for cleaning it anyway.

The ease of attaching the barrel and handguard depends on two things: the tools that you have and the handguard that you choose.  You'll want a vice/action/reaction block/rod to support the upper, a toque wrench (1/2" drive seems common), a breaker bar (saves your torque wrench on the loosening step) and some grease.  Slide the barrel into the upper receiver (there's a pin at the 12 o'clock to line it up correctly), slide the barrel nut down to the threads, hand tighten, toque to spec with torque wrench, back it off with breaker bar, and re-torque with the torque wrench (repeat a couple of times.)  Some handguards have to be "timed" or shimmed to lineup a hole for the gas tube, but many do not (e.g., Geissele.)

Most gas blocks are easy enough to install.  The gas tube slides into the hole at the back of the block until the small hole for the roll pin lines up with the one in the side of the gas block.  Install the roll pin to lock them together (channel lock pliers really help here.)  Make sure to check if the block needs to be offset from the shoulder on your barrel (if the barrel is dimpled for the set screw, then it's easy, but if it's not, just put it on upside down and see where it needs to be for the rear screw hole to be over the gas port.)  

Handguard installation is generally easy and well described by the manufacturer.

These are all rough steps that will vary based on the parts you choose (and who you ask.)  Again, they're the same as for an AR upper, so watch some videos on building those.

Thx, I have all the tools you mentioned. I will order the lower and go from there.

No problem.  Uppers aren't too bad.  Far fewer things (springs, detentes, etc) to fly off than lowers.  The only other thing that I should mention is a set of Go/No-Go gauges, which are used to check headspace.  A lot of people don't do that step, which with parts (bolt, barrel) from reputable suppliers usually isn't an issue.  However, if you can buy or borrow them (or even just pay a local gunsmith a small fee to check it), it's a good idea.

As it turns out, FFLs in my state (CT) are very reluctant to accept a lower. I may have to wait until the rifles become available again.

Thanks - just ordered a lower! They sure do make it hard to find, though. I had to use google since the search on their website didn't turn up anything.

Does anyone know, do your still need to buy the bolt catch with the new lowers? Also do you need to get your own bolt?

Yes, you still need to buy the bolt catch. I got mine off eBay last year some time and had it sitting in the bottom of the safe. No, they do not come with a bolt. You need to buy one in whatever caliber you decide.

An extra $40 and unavailable right now. Nice job, Fightlite.

Why would you buy your bolt from them?  Buy it from anybody, or preferably, your barrel maker.

I assume that he meant the bolt catch module, which is proprietary (not the actual catch, pin and spring, but the piece that they come in.)  They are $40 on Ebay and at Midwest Gunworks, both of which are currently out of stock.

Edit: back in stock on Ebay.

Thanks guys, didn't wanna buy a bolt catch and not need it. As far as their bolt and getting one I just wanted to see if I should have one, besides most are mil spec and I have go, no go headspacers so no need for a matching bolt. Thanks again, kinda lame no bolt catch included.

hey guys would someone measure and post the height of the CZ sights ... from top of rail to center of peep/ghost ring??

thank you!!!

Kinda tricky to measure, using my digital calipers was roughly 0.60".
I measured by resting one on top of the rail riggt infront of the rear sight, and the other was level with my front sight post looking through the rear aperture. Figured that was the best way to eyeball the center of the ring.

thank you!!

Hmmm.... I wonder how well this would work on a SCR... Thoughts?

http://huntertownarms.com/dolos.php

I've thought about it.  Should work well.  However, the Dolos is a somewhat dated system that has some design limitations.  I believe the War Lock System from Frontier Tactical (edit: or maybe I'm thinking of Cry Havoc's new system) is a newer, better alternative.  In the end, though, you can almost buy a lower for what it costs to buy the kit and adapters for two barrels.

I wasn't aware of those other options, thanks for the heads up. I don't really have a use for a take down version (anymore so than it already is) but variety is the spice of life. 

wow ... in the age of "no customer service" a less than 24hour turn around time on my query to Troy Industries and complete information too ...

Q:
I'm interested in potentially using your folding BUIS Micro Set on a FightLite SCR. Would you please tell me the dimension from the top of the rail to the center of the rear peep/ghost ring? in other words from the top of the pic rail to the tip of the front post??

The SCR requires a very low sight to work with the factory stock ... Thank you!!!

A:
Thank you for your email and your interest in Troy products.
We make three sights; standard, medium and micro. The measurement to the center of the standard aperture is 1.36”. The measurement to the center of the medium aperture is 1.276”. The measurement to the center of the micro aperture is 1.16”. The standard & medium sights are meant for Mil-spec top rails and the Micros are meant for the enhanced weapons such as the IAR, Robinson armament XCR other weapons with raised top rails. Please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns.

Thank you,
Kevin Therrien
Customer Service/Tech. Support



note - "Andromax" (guy on forum) measured his CZ sights at approx. 0.60"...

The MBUS on my pump AR measure about 1.41" from the top of the pic rail to the center of the aperture.  These are "lower 1/3 co-witness" height.  The Vortex Strikefire II, with its supplied cantilever AR mount, measures just under 1.60".  This is the standard AR height and what would be called Extra-High rings (careful, Vortex has two Extra-High and lists their one to put BUIS at "Lower-1/3" as 1.57".)

I have medium rings (30mm; Warne, I think) on the Burris TAC-30 on my straight-stock SCR, which measure around 0.97".  The American Defense RECON-SL (30mm, 0 MOA) that my Vortex PST 2.5-10x32 is mounted in is 1.15" (listed on their website, but also verified with my calipers.)  It's designed for bolt-action rifles, as their AR models (RECON, RECON-S, etc) measure 1.51".

The medium rings work well with the Sporter stock (haven't tried low rings, but they might work, too) and I'm guessing that the RECON-SL would be perfect for a Monte Carlo stock (doable on the Sporter, but not ideal; however, I was planning either putting a wood MC/trap stock on it or adding a cheek rest, so it should be good.)  The latter is a very nice military-grade QD mount option for any decent sized variable scope.

Looks like the Troy Micros would provide an absolute co-witness with the RECON-SL, while the Scorpion sites might be too low for even a 1/3 co-witness on it (or even the medium rings?)

based on your info. i'm thinking the SCR w/ MC stock may work with the TroyMicro .. i'll try and mock it up this week and get a better idea.  All said I'm guilty of always needing a taller cheek rest (aerodynamic face) then most.

Can someone with a set of Ares/Fightlite factory sights measure their height?  

Also, if anyone is looking to sell their factory sights, let me know.

tech sights might work

They just might ...

good call that's worth a closer look

Weird, I was thinking about the Dolos system last night too.

Edit: Double tap

@Hanz
Saw these on Amazon, decided to put one on my SCR too.

How has yours held up? Some of the reviews claim the lip is flimsy.

You like your positioning? Would you put it in the same spot if you did it again?

Thanks

Try Delta in Wallingford.    They are up to speed on most things and helpful.

for what it's worth i have used these and like them ... i find it best to mount them in the stock as close to axis of rotation (polar moment of inertia) when the gun is hanging from the sling. In other words i typically mount them in line with the centerline of the bore or sometime slightly below if the loaded firearm has a lot of mass below the receiver/barrel. basically when you lean forward (ie. to tie your boots) with weapon slung across your chest i don't want it rolling over on itself...  does this help?

as far as for/aft position on the stock 1-2 inches for of the but pad seems to carry well and not bump your cheek when shouldered/firing ...

Thanks for the info. Sounds about what I figured!

Mine's held up just fine so far.  I haven't had troubles with it but I don't think mounting it a bit higher to play it safe wouldn't hurt.

Anyone using a low magnification (2.5x - 4x) fixed-power scope on their SCR like the prism scopes from Vortex, PA, Burris, Steiner, etc?  I want to try one out, but I have two concerns that are specific to the SCR:

1) Height-over-bore - other than the original (not the newer AR model) Vortex Spitfire 3x, they all appear to have a fixed riser to put them up at 1/3 co-witness (for AR iron sights) height.  This is too high for the SCR, as even AR absolute co-witness height is high.  The aforementioned Spitfire has a removable riser between the scope and the mount, itself, so it can be lowered.

2) Eye relief - generally, seems to be on the shorter end (2 1/2" - 3") for this type of scope.  On an AR, I see them mounted further back on the receiver than most variable scopes, which tend to have an inch or so more of eye relief.  On an SCR, you naturally sit back a bit further due to the length of the stock and the location of the trigger, so I'm wondering if it will be all the way back.

Thoughts/experiences?

Very nice. Is that a Bud's stock on there ? When and IF Fightlite starts making these and putting them in the market i'm going for wood furniture look myself.

Thanks.  It's actually a factory Remington stock from their Special Field 1100:



It's beautiful walnut (I took off the cowboy leather because I missed looking at it ) with sharp checkering.  I shortened the length, straightened the pitch (angle of the butt), added a grind-to-fit recoil pad and then fit it to the SCR.  I love that rifle.

Where did you get that?

Very interested to see how that turns out!

Id love a set of open style iron sights.

If you put a right hand side charger on that, you could hardly tell it was an AR.

For anyone thinking about the AR Stoner side charging upper, or just a side charging upper to begin with, the Bear Creek arsenal side charging upper looks to be the AR Stoner side charging upper rebranded. But it is on sale for $160

Bear Creek arsenal side charging upper for sale

Side charging upper without the bolt is only $70

Stripped side charging upper

After looking all over the internet to see if you can just buy the side charging handle in case you buy just the stripped upper, i find out bear creek sells just the handle as well.

I feel a bit dumb.

Side charging upper handle

sweet, who makes that rail?