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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
I have M3x8 written down. I ended up finding the needed screws in a baseball card case believe it or not, so I never got to find out if M3x8 was the correct size or not, but that's what I found when I spent hours and hours trying to find the correct Docter screw size online. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By jparish62:
Anyone here run a Docter or an Insight MRDS? I need to know what the diameter of the mounting screws are. I have M3x8 written down. I ended up finding the needed screws in a baseball card case believe it or not, so I never got to find out if M3x8 was the correct size or not, but that's what I found when I spent hours and hours trying to find the correct Docter screw size online. Interesting.... I wonder if the mrds uses standard screws. The insight mrds mount I got for my ACOG doesn't with the screws for my Docter |
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Keep California out of Arizona
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It's not just the threads either. The diameter on the screws for my Docter are much too large for the mount holes
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Keep California out of Arizona
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Originally Posted By jparish62: It's not just the threads either. The diameter on the screws for my Docter are much too large for the mount holes View Quote |
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Cool article comparing the Son Tay raid carbines with the modern CQBR. I didn't know Son Tay was the first time red dot optics where used in the mil.
Part 1 |
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That top M4 rail color though.
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Originally Posted By azoutdoorsman:
I have an MRDS, but not sure how to measure the thread pitch. I know the MRDS takes the same thread pitch as Burris Fastfire among others, if that helps at all. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By azoutdoorsman:
Originally Posted By jparish62:
It's not just the threads either. The diameter on the screws for my Docter are much too large for the mount holes I don't necessarily need the pitch, just the major diameter |
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Keep California out of Arizona
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View Quote Those are pretty badass. |
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Freedom is not Free..
The 2nd Amendment is a RIGHT, not a Privilege... Gun Gallery 4 Life: "Sellng Guns, Changing People's Lives" |
View Quote Nice su231a |
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Can someone explaine to me what the cage code sticker on the lower is meant for?
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Originally Posted By Augee:
For military rifles - inventory control, accountability, and life-cycle maintenance. For "clones" - to look like military rifles. ~Augee View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Augee:
Originally Posted By Vuong0916:
Can someone explaine to me what the cage code sticker on the lower is meant for? For military rifles - inventory control, accountability, and life-cycle maintenance. For "clones" - to look like military rifles. ~Augee Thanks for the info |
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Originally Posted By jparish62: I don't necessarily need the pitch, just the major diameter View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jparish62: Originally Posted By azoutdoorsman: Originally Posted By jparish62: It's not just the threads either. The diameter on the screws for my Docter are much too large for the mount holes I don't necessarily need the pitch, just the major diameter |
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What are you gonna do brother? When 72oz of Cola runs wild on you!
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Originally Posted By jparish62:
Anyone here run a Docter or an Insight MRDS? I need to know what the diameter of the mounting screws are. View Quote The MRDS screws are M3 x .5 thread pitch, they are either 8mm or 10mm long depending on mount used Edit: Adding that they are countersunk SHCS's (Socket Head Cap Screws) |
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" Clone threads are full of dudes with sharp wit, pleasant demeanor, boyish good looks, and big swinging Richards " StealthGuy
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Originally Posted By Mad4wd:
The MRDS screws are M3 x .5 thread pitch, they are either 8mm or 10mm long depending on mount used Edit: Adding that they are countersunk SHCS's (Socket Head Cap Screws) View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Mad4wd:
Originally Posted By jparish62:
Anyone here run a Docter or an Insight MRDS? I need to know what the diameter of the mounting screws are. The MRDS screws are M3 x .5 thread pitch, they are either 8mm or 10mm long depending on mount used Edit: Adding that they are countersunk SHCS's (Socket Head Cap Screws) Awesome. Thank you |
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Keep California out of Arizona
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Originally Posted By jparish62: Awesome. Thank you View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jparish62: Originally Posted By Mad4wd: Originally Posted By jparish62: Anyone here run a Docter or an Insight MRDS? I need to know what the diameter of the mounting screws are. The MRDS screws are M3 x .5 thread pitch, they are either 8mm or 10mm long depending on mount used Edit: Adding that they are countersunk SHCS's (Socket Head Cap Screws) Awesome. Thank you |
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Originally Posted By jparish62:
Yep, I went and got a few from the hardware store for now. I know, I know.... <a href="http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/jparish62/media/Mobile%20Uploads/65085778_zpsqaez1rmd.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l519/jparish62/Mobile%20Uploads/65085778_zpsqaez1rmd.jpg</a> But its just until I can find some proper ones. Neither Docter or Insight have gotten back to me View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jparish62:
Originally Posted By azoutdoorsman:
Originally Posted By jparish62:
Originally Posted By Mad4wd:
Originally Posted By jparish62:
Anyone here run a Docter or an Insight MRDS? I need to know what the diameter of the mounting screws are. The MRDS screws are M3 x .5 thread pitch, they are either 8mm or 10mm long depending on mount used Edit: Adding that they are countersunk SHCS's (Socket Head Cap Screws) Awesome. Thank you Yep, I went and got a few from the hardware store for now. I know, I know.... <a href="http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/jparish62/media/Mobile%20Uploads/65085778_zpsqaez1rmd.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l519/jparish62/Mobile%20Uploads/65085778_zpsqaez1rmd.jpg</a> But its just until I can find some proper ones. Neither Docter or Insight have gotten back to me Haha that picture is still making the rounds. |
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Love the AK Cleaning Rod Broken Shell Extractor.
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Originally Posted By jparish62: Yep, I went and got a few from the hardware store for now. I know, I know.... http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l519/jparish62/Mobile%20Uploads/65085778_zpsqaez1rmd.jpg But its just until I can find some proper ones. Neither Docter or Insight have gotten back to me View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jparish62: Originally Posted By azoutdoorsman: Originally Posted By jparish62: Originally Posted By Mad4wd: Originally Posted By jparish62: Anyone here run a Docter or an Insight MRDS? I need to know what the diameter of the mounting screws are. The MRDS screws are M3 x .5 thread pitch, they are either 8mm or 10mm long depending on mount used Edit: Adding that they are countersunk SHCS's (Socket Head Cap Screws) Awesome. Thank you Yep, I went and got a few from the hardware store for now. I know, I know.... http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l519/jparish62/Mobile%20Uploads/65085778_zpsqaez1rmd.jpg But its just until I can find some proper ones. Neither Docter or Insight have gotten back to me |
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View Quote Two questions: 1. What kind of straps are they (holding your wires together), and where can I get them? 2. Do your wires not get really hot and melt/deform that close to the ports on the rail? I ask because; I thought I'd be clever and cut out a little notch in the rail covers to fit the wire, so it'd stay out of the way. Like so: LrMobile2011-2015-034268587683690037 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> LrMobile2011-2015-033168757024779242 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> Turns out, not so clever. LrMobile2011-2015-030968495579092909 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> Anyway. While I was at it....(and yes, I know it's not up to code, but it's how I like it, and I would imagine if everyone had the exact same gun/setup you'd eventually start getting tired of seeing it, so...)... LrMobile2011-2015-035568901117390520 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> PSX_20151120_180148 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> PSX_20151120_175933 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> I'm slowly building up the balls to whip out the Krylon... |
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those straps come with the ATPIAL's. i think you can find them seperate on ebay.
what all end plates have been "seen in the wild" ?? |
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In the absence of a plan, move toward the sound of gunfire and kill everything.
Easily bribed with mil rifle parts |
Lots of CQBR porn tomorrow.
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In the absence of a plan, move toward the sound of gunfire and kill everything.
Easily bribed with mil rifle parts |
Looking at some parts... Maybe another upper... Any of you guys know if BCM is doing a Black Friday sale?
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Happy to report my CQBR completed a 40 hours rifle course this week without a hiccup. I lost count of how many rounds about half way through the pallet
ETA: Got my 99051 installed as well. |
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Is there any form of heat insulation I can put on that wire to make it not melt? I don't suppose electrical tape would do jack shit, but a type of tape in general would be ideal.
Also, any tips on keeping the plug on your IR laser systems (DBAL-I² specifically) because mine keeps falling out (or pulling out just enough to make the pressure switch not work), and the last time I went shooting, I found that in transit, the plug actually bent and now no longer works. I guess I need to get an actual case for them, but putting them in my backpack is just, well, slightly easier. At least, right up until it broke the $120 dollar (ballpark guestimate) Surefire dual pressure switch. Anyway, I'd like to prevent that from happening again, and getting a dedicated case is certainly an option, but that still leaves me with the problem of the plug for the pressure switch falling out easily. I guess I could go the ghetto route and go with the electrical tape, but I'd rather not, and I thought about just super glueing the next one in, but if I do that and something happens to the wire (see above example) then I'm pretty much screwed. Thoughts? |
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Maybe the heat insulation covers for spark plug wires? Just to go behind the rail cover just tossin an idea out. Long time reader figured it's about time I try to pist
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*post
Love this thread my wallet not so much |
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Originally Posted By JohnnySasaki20:
Is there any form of heat insulation I can put on that wire to make it not melt? I don't suppose electrical tape would do jack shit, but a type of tape in general would be ideal. Also, any tips on keeping the plug on your IR laser systems (DBAL-I² specifically) because mine keeps falling out (or pulling out just enough to make the pressure switch not work), and the last time I went shooting, I found that in transit, the plug actually bent and now no longer works. I guess I need to get an actual case for them, but putting them in my backpack is just, well, slightly easier. At least, right up until it broke the $120 dollar (ballpark guestimate) Surefire dual pressure switch. Anyway, I'd like to prevent that from happening again, and getting a dedicated case is certainly an option, but that still leaves me with the problem of the plug for the pressure switch falling out easily. I guess I could go the ghetto route and go with the electrical tape, but I'd rather not, and I thought about just super glueing the next one in, but if I do that and something happens to the wire (see above example) then I'm pretty much screwed. Thoughts? View Quote Have you tried contacting Surefire about replacing the tapeswitch? I've never seen one melt that didn't come into direct contact with a heat source, but I suppose it could happen. I've also heard of some people using rubber bands to keep plugs plugged in to IR laser systems. I'm sure asking in the night vision forum would help if you can't find any here. |
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Just another 0311
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Originally Posted By JohnnySasaki20:
Two questions: 1. What kind of straps are they (holding your wires together), and where can I get them? 2. Do your wires not get really hot and melt/deform that close to the ports on the rail? I ask because; I thought I'd be clever and cut out a little notch in the rail covers to fit the wire, so it'd stay out of the way. Like so: http://<a href=https://farm1.staticflickr.com/701/23159024575_4eed9f50c2_b.jpg</a>LrMobile2011-2015-034268587683690037 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> http://<a href=https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5689/22863249840_59e4d01600_b.jpg</a>LrMobile2011-2015-033168757024779242 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> Turns out, not so clever. http://<a href=https://farm1.staticflickr.com/680/22764862957_12c6227220_b.jpg</a>LrMobile2011-2015-030968495579092909 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> Anyway. While I was at it....(and yes, I know it's not up to code, but it's how I like it, and I would imagine if everyone had the exact same gun/setup you'd eventually start getting tired of seeing it, so...)... http://<a href=https://farm1.staticflickr.com/591/22791036569_e33b6d965e_b.jpg</a>LrMobile2011-2015-035568901117390520 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> http://<a href=https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5771/22764850247_cd13bfec63_b.jpg</a>PSX_20151120_180148 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> http://<a href=https://farm1.staticflickr.com/625/22764850227_f1dfeca1ea_b.jpg</a>PSX_20151120_175933 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> I'm slowly building up the balls to whip out the Krylon... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By JohnnySasaki20:
Two questions: 1. What kind of straps are they (holding your wires together), and where can I get them? 2. Do your wires not get really hot and melt/deform that close to the ports on the rail? I ask because; I thought I'd be clever and cut out a little notch in the rail covers to fit the wire, so it'd stay out of the way. Like so: http://<a href=https://farm1.staticflickr.com/701/23159024575_4eed9f50c2_b.jpg</a>LrMobile2011-2015-034268587683690037 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> http://<a href=https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5689/22863249840_59e4d01600_b.jpg</a>LrMobile2011-2015-033168757024779242 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> Turns out, not so clever. http://<a href=https://farm1.staticflickr.com/680/22764862957_12c6227220_b.jpg</a>LrMobile2011-2015-030968495579092909 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> Anyway. While I was at it....(and yes, I know it's not up to code, but it's how I like it, and I would imagine if everyone had the exact same gun/setup you'd eventually start getting tired of seeing it, so...)... http://<a href=https://farm1.staticflickr.com/591/22791036569_e33b6d965e_b.jpg</a>LrMobile2011-2015-035568901117390520 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> http://<a href=https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5771/22764850247_cd13bfec63_b.jpg</a>PSX_20151120_180148 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> http://<a href=https://farm1.staticflickr.com/625/22764850227_f1dfeca1ea_b.jpg</a>PSX_20151120_175933 by Alex Legore, on Flickr" /> I'm slowly building up the balls to whip out the Krylon... I thought those straps were RC car battery hold down straps...lol |
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Originally Posted By TurbineGuy:
Have you tried contacting Surefire about replacing the tapeswitch? I've never seen one melt that didn't come into direct contact with a heat source, but I suppose it could happen. I've also heard of some people using rubber bands to keep plugs plugged in to IR laser systems. I'm sure asking in the night vision forum would help if you can't find any here. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TurbineGuy:
Originally Posted By JohnnySasaki20:
Is there any form of heat insulation I can put on that wire to make it not melt? I don't suppose electrical tape would do jack shit, but a type of tape in general would be ideal. Also, any tips on keeping the plug on your IR laser systems (DBAL-I² specifically) because mine keeps falling out (or pulling out just enough to make the pressure switch not work), and the last time I went shooting, I found that in transit, the plug actually bent and now no longer works. I guess I need to get an actual case for them, but putting them in my backpack is just, well, slightly easier. At least, right up until it broke the $120 dollar (ballpark guestimate) Surefire dual pressure switch. Anyway, I'd like to prevent that from happening again, and getting a dedicated case is certainly an option, but that still leaves me with the problem of the plug for the pressure switch falling out easily. I guess I could go the ghetto route and go with the electrical tape, but I'd rather not, and I thought about just super glueing the next one in, but if I do that and something happens to the wire (see above example) then I'm pretty much screwed. Thoughts? Have you tried contacting Surefire about replacing the tapeswitch? I've never seen one melt that didn't come into direct contact with a heat source, but I suppose it could happen. I've also heard of some people using rubber bands to keep plugs plugged in to IR laser systems. I'm sure asking in the night vision forum would help if you can't find any here. Rubber bands. See, this is why I ask. I don't know why I didn't think of that, lol. Anyway, yeah, I guess I could contact Surefire, and I probably will, if not to just get their opinion on how to fix the issue, but I don't see why a new one wouldn't end up doing the same thing. It is weird though, as you can see, it only melted on the right side, not the left, and there's obviously ports in the rail that allows heat to escape on both sides. The only thing I can think of is that I usually lay my guns down on their left side (even handguns), mostly because I'm a righty, and it's just more natural that way. So I guess I must have shot a lot with it, got the barrel real hot, and then either laid it down, or switched uppers, making the heat rise through the right side of the gun, and therefore melting/deforming only the one side. Still though, you would imagine it would be designed to take a little warmth. |
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Originally Posted By TurbineGuy:
Have you tried contacting Surefire about replacing the tapeswitch? I've never seen one melt that didn't come into direct contact with a heat source, but I suppose it could happen. I've also heard of some people using rubber bands to keep plugs plugged in to IR laser systems. I'm sure asking in the night vision forum would help if you can't find any here. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TurbineGuy:
Originally Posted By JohnnySasaki20:
Is there any form of heat insulation I can put on that wire to make it not melt? I don't suppose electrical tape would do jack shit, but a type of tape in general would be ideal. Also, any tips on keeping the plug on your IR laser systems (DBAL-I² specifically) because mine keeps falling out (or pulling out just enough to make the pressure switch not work), and the last time I went shooting, I found that in transit, the plug actually bent and now no longer works. I guess I need to get an actual case for them, but putting them in my backpack is just, well, slightly easier. At least, right up until it broke the $120 dollar (ballpark guestimate) Surefire dual pressure switch. Anyway, I'd like to prevent that from happening again, and getting a dedicated case is certainly an option, but that still leaves me with the problem of the plug for the pressure switch falling out easily. I guess I could go the ghetto route and go with the electrical tape, but I'd rather not, and I thought about just super glueing the next one in, but if I do that and something happens to the wire (see above example) then I'm pretty much screwed. Thoughts? Have you tried contacting Surefire about replacing the tapeswitch? I've never seen one melt that didn't come into direct contact with a heat source, but I suppose it could happen. I've also heard of some people using rubber bands to keep plugs plugged in to IR laser systems. I'm sure asking in the night vision forum would help if you can't find any here. When will the nice wear off? *plot thickens* |
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In the absence of a plan, move toward the sound of gunfire and kill everything.
Easily bribed with mil rifle parts |
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View Quote I feel bad for your scout's head assembly. Looks good bro! |
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In the absence of a plan, move toward the sound of gunfire and kill everything.
Easily bribed with mil rifle parts |
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
I feel bad for your scout's head assembly. Looks good bro! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
I feel bad for your scout's head assembly. Looks good bro! Thanks. The Scout does take a beating out there but it doesn't appear to do anything beyond aesthetics. Now if my SOCOM would get out of jail i'd be in business. Sucks I won't be able to leave it attached while on duty. |
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Originally Posted By JohnnySasaki20:
Two questions: 1. What kind of straps are they (holding your wires together), and where can I get them? 2. Do your wires not get really hot and melt/deform that close to the ports on the rail? I ask because; I thought I'd be clever and cut out a little notch in the rail covers to fit the wire, so it'd stay out of the way. Like so: View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By JohnnySasaki20:
Two questions: 1. What kind of straps are they (holding your wires together), and where can I get them? 2. Do your wires not get really hot and melt/deform that close to the ports on the rail? I ask because; I thought I'd be clever and cut out a little notch in the rail covers to fit the wire, so it'd stay out of the way. Like so: Sorry for the late reply. As someone already mentioned, the straps are just the ones that come with any insight product like the atpials and WMXs. I think they're meant to hold on the standard single tape switches (in combination with the sticky velcro on them) to either the rail or a VFG but they work great for the dual switch too. I have never had a problem with my wires melting. But I don't use Surefire switches, my setup is all insight, so maybe those wires are more resistant? Dunno. Could also be that by using something like a rail cover you're actually trapping the heat in there. I think with my setup, just using a strap, there's plenty of airflow still in and around the wires which probably prevents too much heat. I don't know if I'd put them under something solid like a rail cover like that - specifically for that reason. |
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Originally Posted By developer:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/gw4k/firearms/IMG_20151121_115500_zpshj1ep9or.jpg View Quote Never thought I'd say this, but that black RIS II looks better on that gun than FDE would. Nice CQBR. |
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In the absence of a plan, move toward the sound of gunfire and kill everything.
Easily bribed with mil rifle parts |
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Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Never thought I'd say this, but that black RIS II looks better on that gun than FDE would. Nice CQBR. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By developer:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/gw4k/firearms/IMG_20151121_115500_zpshj1ep9or.jpg Never thought I'd say this, but that black RIS II looks better on that gun than FDE would. Nice CQBR. But the MRO just looks out of place IMO. |
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Originally Posted By Kph21: But the MRO just looks out of place IMO. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Kph21: Originally Posted By MILSPEC556: Originally Posted By developer: http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/gw4k/firearms/IMG_20151121_115500_zpshj1ep9or.jpg Never thought I'd say this, but that black RIS II looks better on that gun than FDE would. Nice CQBR. But the MRO just looks out of place IMO. |
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You bought rubberfuckingbands while your old lady is being plowed by her brother?....
- needmorebacon |
Originally Posted By Kph21:
But the MRO just looks out of place IMO. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Kph21:
Originally Posted By MILSPEC556:
Originally Posted By developer:
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y218/gw4k/firearms/IMG_20151121_115500_zpshj1ep9or.jpg Never thought I'd say this, but that black RIS II looks better on that gun than FDE would. Nice CQBR. But the MRO just looks out of place IMO. Understandable, but I still see no way that we won't see these in use in the future. I wouldn't put an MRO on my clones as of yet, but it'll be seen eventually. |
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In the absence of a plan, move toward the sound of gunfire and kill everything.
Easily bribed with mil rifle parts |
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