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AZ, USA
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Posted: 11/13/2020 9:37:32 PM EDT
[#1]
RC2 finally got approved at 360 days. Big Oof
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Posted: 11/13/2020 9:41:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 100roundclipazine]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rcfallen: RC2 finally got approved at 360 days. Big Oof https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50598356293_06f8eb17c5_b.jpg Very nice I dont give a damn if people think cloning is boring sometimes, like "every gun looks the same" type of thing. Every time I see one of these I get a hard on, the 1st time and the 1000th time. They are like boobs, no matter how many you see they never lose their allure. |
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Posted: 11/13/2020 10:11:31 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rcfallen: RC2 finally got approved at 360 days. Big Oof https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50598356293_06f8eb17c5_b.jpg Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rcfallen: RC2 finally got approved at 360 days. Big Oof https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50598356293_06f8eb17c5_b.jpg Quicker than mine. 393 on my last one... Nsn marked? Cant wait to see it all together. Originally Posted By 100roundclipazine: Very nice I dont give a damn if people think cloning is boring sometimes, like "every gun looks the same" type of thing. Every time I see one of these I get a hard on, the 1st time and the 1000th time. They are like boobs, no matter how many you see they never lose their allure. Lol I don't think I could have said it better. 
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Posted: 11/13/2020 11:16:33 PM EDT
[#4]
Originally Posted By krdt: It either shouldn't matter or be the exact opposite of what you're describing. When you run the 99051 in reverse, the clamp isn't over the relief cut-out in the RIS II unless you use the most forward slot and that causes it to skew to the right. Conversely, if you use the most forward slot, orientation shouldn't matter. Look at it from above when reversed further back on the rail and you can visibly see the overhang on the right. Naturally, windage will need to skew even further to the right to compensate. I run one of mine reversed and one standard orientation--the standard is dead center and the reverse is nearly maxed to the right. High probably of an off-center rail as mentioned. If you're not using something to bridge the rail to the receiver during installation, that's the most likely culprit. Also, make sure you're keeping moderate forward pressure on the 99051 as you tighten the clamp to keep it centered. Originally Posted By JLAudio: Interesting. I have a pre 2000's RIS, new old stock, and it's dated 1997 Most of the AF forged uppers do not have T markings, i think that's pretty standard Now I'm really curious about the RIS. I can't remember off the top of my head, is the date etched in the pocket where mine has the Kac shield and logo? Also, assuming yours is Vero Beach marked based on the year, does yours have the same phone number on it as mine? |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 12:32:30 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rcfallen: RC2 finally got approved at 360 days. Big Oof https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50598356293_06f8eb17c5_b.jpg |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 5:03:11 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: The locking/clamping nut crossed my mind too. I was unaware of any difference between running it forward or reverse. Is that only a factor on the last rail slot like you were saying? I just assumed the front sight post was centered to the rail regardless. My thought was maybe his sight was pieced together to where he has an older sight body with a newer clamping nut, or vice-versa an older clamp with a newer sight body. Let me know if that makes sense. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: Originally Posted By krdt: It either shouldn't matter or be the exact opposite of what you're describing. When you run the 99051 in reverse, the clamp isn't over the relief cut-out in the RIS II unless you use the most forward slot and that causes it to skew to the right. Conversely, if you use the most forward slot, orientation shouldn't matter. Look at it from above when reversed further back on the rail and you can visibly see the overhang on the right. Naturally, windage will need to skew even further to the right to compensate. I run one of mine reversed and one standard orientation--the standard is dead center and the reverse is nearly maxed to the right. High probably of an off-center rail as mentioned. If you're not using something to bridge the rail to the receiver during installation, that's the most likely culprit. Also, make sure you're keeping moderate forward pressure on the 99051 as you tighten the clamp to keep it centered. I don't think an older wide clamp would be an issue as they still cut the clamp relief area the same width on the 99051 (the 300m rear definitely changed and the newer slim clamp bodies probably aren't interchangeable with the older wide clamp; but, the 99051 clamp area is the same). You can see the RIS II relief cut here:  The same as the relief cuts on the RIS/RAS. Without the relief cut, the 99051 isn't able to fully center; assuming everything else is close to true, it doesn't prevent using it outside the relief cut like I'm doing, but it will require a heavy windage adjustment. As long as you're clamped in that relief cut, orientation forward or reverse shouldn't matter as far as it being centered. |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 6:31:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Dyzastr]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krdt: I don't think an older wide clamp would be an issue as they still cut the clamp relief area the same width on the 99051 (the 300m rear definitely changed and the newer slim clamp bodies probably aren't interchangeable with the older wide clamp; but, the 99051 clamp area is the same). You can see the RIS II relief cut here: http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.102120.SFMB.Arises-RS-02.jpg The same as the relief cuts on the RIS/RAS. Without the relief cut, the 99051 isn't able to fully center; assuming everything else is close to true, it doesn't prevent using it outside the relief cut like I'm doing, but it will require a heavy windage adjustment. As long as you're clamped in that relief cut, orientation forward or reverse shouldn't matter as far as it being centered. Edit- where’d you find an nsn marked muzzle break? |
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USA
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Posted: 11/14/2020 11:43:26 AM EDT
[#8]
TRADE REQUEST: Hey all, planning on throwing up a WTT in the EE but I'm looking for the older Wilcox mount that does not have the '®' or ':' after CAGE. I'd be willing to buy outright but would rather trade proper parts for proper parts. That said, I have an old CQD rear sling mount with a flat back that has never been staked I can work as part of a trade (+/- cash). Email me if you have what I need and are interested. I can setup an EE ad for feedback purposes, etc. Thank you!
 
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Posted: 11/14/2020 12:34:14 PM EDT
[#9]
I've found KAC sights to not sit in the center of Colt/DD rails. They are always off to one side.
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Posted: 11/14/2020 1:29:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SMFdarkangel]
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By allensaldi: Did you guys miss me? Duh!  When are those vise jaws dropping man? I'm having a hell of a time with a demil RIS II...damn thing won't go on straight. Is there some sort of trick to getting it to center??  |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 1:57:35 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SMFdarkangel: Duh! When are those vise jaws dropping man? I'm having a hell of a time with a demil RIS II...damn thing won't go on straight. Is there some sort of trick to getting it to center?? Are you talking about centering the rail with the upper receiver? As mentioned before, any quality optics mount that will bridge the gap between the two works great. I have an old usgi Carry handle that I use specifically for building up Ris'ed uppers. |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 2:07:20 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 2Keylows: Are you talking about centering the rail with the upper receiver? As mentioned before, any quality optics mount that will bridge the gap between the two works great. I have an old usgi Carry handle that I use specifically for building up Ris'ed uppers. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 2Keylows: Originally Posted By SMFdarkangel: Duh! When are those vise jaws dropping man? I'm having a hell of a time with a demil RIS II...damn thing won't go on straight. Is there some sort of trick to getting it to center?? Are you talking about centering the rail with the upper receiver? As mentioned before, any quality optics mount that will bridge the gap between the two works great. I have an old usgi Carry handle that I use specifically for building up Ris'ed uppers. |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 2:11:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Dyzastr]
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DStepec: TRADE REQUEST: Hey all, planning on throwing up a WTT in the EE but I'm looking for the older Wilcox mount that does not have the '' or ':' after CAGE. I'd be willing to buy outright but would rather trade proper parts for proper parts. That said, I have an old CQD rear sling mount with a flat back that has never been staked I can work as part of a trade (+/- cash). Email me if you have what I need and are interested. I can setup an EE ad for feedback purposes, etc. Thank you! https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50601095256_a0e80e2ff2_b.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50601215257_80976a4de4_b.jpg edit- couldn't tell from the pic, but do you have the tab on the front of the RIS outside of the hg retainer clamping down? |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 2:24:16 PM EDT
[#14]
Originally Posted By 2Keylows: Are you talking about centering the rail with the upper receiver? As mentioned before, any quality optics mount that will bridge the gap between the two works great. I have an old usgi Carry handle that I use specifically for building up Ris'ed uppers. Originally Posted By Dyzastr: This is good advise. Anything with length that will span the upper and rail will work. I've used the carry handle method with success. Yup, using Geissele scope mount...no dice. Did the whole tightening pattern like DD recommends...didn't work either. Probably spent 2+ hrs beating my head against the wall LOL |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 2:27:33 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SMFdarkangel: Yup, using Geissele scope mount...no dice. Did the whole tightening pattern like DD recommends...didn't work either. Probably spent 2+ hrs beating my head against the wall LOL I'm not sure what you're going to get from a vice jaw that you won't from carry handle or one piece scope mount. |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 2:36:00 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: Are you referring to the relief cut for the Kac panels to snap in place? Does that really affect the mouthing? I'll have to look closer on mine. If we are talking about the same relief cut, I didn't think it affected anything but the Kac and Kac type rail panels. The relief is so deep in the picatinny slot that I didn't think it would affect the sight, in which the clamp straddles the two outer edges of the picatinny slots. I'll still have to take a closer look, Ive never really checked it out. Edit- where’d you find an nsn marked muzzle break? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: Originally Posted By krdt: I don't think an older wide clamp would be an issue as they still cut the clamp relief area the same width on the 99051 (the 300m rear definitely changed and the newer slim clamp bodies probably aren't interchangeable with the older wide clamp; but, the 99051 clamp area is the same). You can see the RIS II relief cut here: http://wkd.site.nfoservers.com/CQBR/CQBR.102120.SFMB.Arises-RS-02.jpg The same as the relief cuts on the RIS/RAS. Without the relief cut, the 99051 isn't able to fully center; assuming everything else is close to true, it doesn't prevent using it outside the relief cut like I'm doing, but it will require a heavy windage adjustment. As long as you're clamped in that relief cut, orientation forward or reverse shouldn't matter as far as it being centered. Edit- where’d you find an nsn marked muzzle break? Yep, where the KAC panels snap-in. You know, truth be told, I've never analyzed it too closely; I just know when I mount in the relief slot, it's centered (i.e. rear windage is near or at zero dead center) and when I'm outside the relief cut slot (as when reversed and not at the end of the rail), it's off-center. I always sorta took it for granted from then on that it was something to do with the relief cut slot. Now I'm kinda curious--I'll have to play around with it both ways later and verify that's correct. Always possible the theory is entirely fucked. A bunch of SF accessories received NSN markings a while back. |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 2:59:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Dyzastr]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krdt: Yep, where the KAC panels snap-in. You know, truth be told, I've never analyzed it too closely; I just know when I mount in the relief slot, it's centered (i.e. rear windage is near or at zero dead center) and when I'm outside the relief cut slot (as when reversed and not at the end of the rail), it's off-center. I always sorta took it for granted from then on that it was something to do with the relief cut slot. Now I'm kinda curious--I'll have to play around with it both ways later and verify that's correct. Always possible the theory is entirely fucked. A bunch of SF accessories received NSN markings a while back. I think the clamping nut on the 99051 rides the part of the rail that is consistent all the way down the rail. At least on mine it doesn't appear to do anything different when in the front slot or not. |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 5:23:19 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: I just got got my 4p delivered to me a little bit ago. I remember back when they all got the NSN's assigned, I just haven't seen too many pop up, but then again I haven't really searched. I'll have to check it out. I think the clamping nut on the 99051 rides the part of the rail that is consistent all the way down the rail. At least on mine it doesn't appear to do anything different when in the front slot or not. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: Originally Posted By krdt: Yep, where the KAC panels snap-in. You know, truth be told, I've never analyzed it too closely; I just know when I mount in the relief slot, it's centered (i.e. rear windage is near or at zero dead center) and when I'm outside the relief cut slot (as when reversed and not at the end of the rail), it's off-center. I always sorta took it for granted from then on that it was something to do with the relief cut slot. Now I'm kinda curious--I'll have to play around with it both ways later and verify that's correct. Always possible the theory is entirely fucked. A bunch of SF accessories received NSN markings a while back. I think the clamping nut on the 99051 rides the part of the rail that is consistent all the way down the rail. At least on mine it doesn't appear to do anything different when in the front slot or not. Well, I'll be damned, it seems to purely be dictated by orientation--and there is a small offset regardless of which way you orient it. Reverse offsets it to the right and normal offsets it to the left. Apparently, the rear sight must compensate for it because when in "normal" orientation my windage can be dead center despite the left bias. Never looked closely at the "normal" oriented sight because I always assumed it must be centered if the windage is centered--but it actually isn't. Crazy. Never would've thought they would design it with a directionally dependent offset like that--or any offset at all. Seems like it would make more sense to just have it centered. |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 5:38:23 PM EDT
[#19]
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Posted: 11/14/2020 5:39:03 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SMFdarkangel: Yup, using Geissele scope mount...no dice. Did the whole tightening pattern like DD recommends...didn't work either. Probably spent 2+ hrs beating my head against the wall LOL Something must be up with that rail or the retaining ring with the 6 holes. Post some pix so we can see. Also, I can't discuss anything business related or I'll get the ban hammer again. I had to beg to be let back on. |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 8:49:09 PM EDT
[#21]
Originally Posted By krdt: Well, I'll be damned, it seems to purely be dictated by orientation--and there is a small offset regardless of which way you orient it. Reverse offsets it to the right and normal offsets it to the left. Apparently, the rear sight must compensate for it because when in "normal" orientation my windage can be dead center despite the left bias. Never looked closely at the "normal" oriented sight because I always assumed it must be centered if the windage is centered--but it actually isn't. Crazy. Never would've thought they would design it with a directionally dependent offset like that--or any offset at all. Seems like it would make more sense to just have it centered. Originally Posted By -KentuckyWindage-: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/490874/7B5FA04B-524D-4F08-90CA-D764C392C096_jpe-1684447.JPG |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 8:51:22 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: thinking back, and looking at mine, I do have my rear windage favoring the right side. But nowhere near maxed out. I run mine regular. thats got me puzzled. I wonder if this has been discussed at any length anywhere else before? is he communicating with someone on the moon? Pretty big for portable. Can you hear me now? Lol I was thinking that thing must be working off the old Sprint network... |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 9:07:18 PM EDT
[#23]
some like dp, while others are into 3p. 4p? awwwe yaaa. Its a basically new take-off. Threads look great, and the prongs are clean.
 takin a trip down memory lane. Most of these parts have made their way to ppl that post in here. AZSBR, you still got that pristine m952?  these dd ris ii's are so dark, they almost appear black  I've seen a few Remington socom barrels barrels pop up in the EE. one has been cutdown to 10.3''. anyone know if Remington made any gov contract socom m4 barrels? |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 9:10:55 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -KentuckyWindage-: Lol I was thinking that thing must be working off the old Sprint network... |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 9:21:33 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: its so big, he can talk to the past... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: Originally Posted By -KentuckyWindage-: Lol I was thinking that thing must be working off the old Sprint network...  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/14/2020 10:19:54 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -KentuckyWindage-: /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/B926BC70-2451-4EC1-A889-3A3C070B9F9D-404.gif Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -KentuckyWindage-: Originally Posted By Dyzastr: Originally Posted By -KentuckyWindage-: Lol I was thinking that thing must be working off the old Sprint network... /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/B926BC70-2451-4EC1-A889-3A3C070B9F9D-404.gif are gifs posted in a similar manner to posting pics? |
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IL, USA
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Posted: 11/16/2020 2:06:07 AM EDT
[#27]
I have a new in box DD MK18 FDE rail for sale if anyone is interested in here. PayPal accepted. 440 shipped. PP G&S buyer covers fees.
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Posted: 11/16/2020 10:03:28 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: its so big, he can talk to the past... |
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Posted: 11/16/2020 12:50:41 PM EDT
[#29]
Anyone have photos of black MK18 DD rails in use?
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Posted: 11/16/2020 2:29:13 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Combat_Diver: Couple of points Mk18 Mod 0 and M4A1 CQBR Block 1 is the exact same thing. Both by Crane either using M16A1 or M4A1 lowers. M4A1 CQBR Block 1 Transitional is just that. M4A1 CQBR (URG) and Mk18 Mod 1 is the exact same. Mk18s are Naval nomenclature and M4A1 US Army. Guns will 99% be semi/auto Lower Reciever All: Lowers generally Colt (M16A1 or M4A1) but small number of FN, H&R, GM in system possible. All: Buffer tube, all USGI 4 position All: Recoil spring, standard carbine. Buffer either H (phased out) or H2 Selector: Standard USGI single or ambi All: Pistol Grip A2 with a very small % using M16A1 lowers will have a A1. All others are individual purchased. All: Stock: CAR, Waffle or SOPMOD Rear sling plate, Only on Navy guns have I've seen the CQD plate. Army standard end plate Upper Reciever All: Uppers generally Colt but FN or other contractor upper in system. All: Charging Handle USGI standard. Block 2 PRI M84 Gas Buster in addition to All: Gas tube, USGI carbine All: Gas Port .070" All: Barrels, those with a FSB are Colt Govt Profile 10.3" cut down by Crane. Mk12 (several manufactures but same spec) Low Profile Gas Block uses either Colt 10.3" Govt Profile cut down with FSB removed or 10.3" FN SOCOM dimipled. All: Flash hinders either A2, NT4 or SF 4P Handguards. Chart correct Rear BUIS: Add KAC 600m BUIS after 14' Front Sight: Chart correct ie either FSB or KAC 99051 Front Sling Attachment: either standard under FSB, Standard M4A1 side sling swivel, CQD or KAC QD mount Suppressors: two standard KAC NT4 or Surefire Socom RC Light: Chart correct Optics: Add Aimpoint T1 and T2 in smaller numbers CD  |
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Posted: 11/16/2020 3:27:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wissota4]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Theodoric: Thank you so much for all of the help. This should reflect all of your changes. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/124774/MK18_Parts_List-1686980.jpg Think of PR gun as a block 1 base with block 2 accessories. A block 1 would run a peq2 and can also use matech rear etc. A block 1 and PR use FSB not low pro gas blocks. Block 1 and PR can have RAS not just RIS. Front cqd mounts aren't navy only. Low pro gasblocks are set screw. Not pinned. More light and optic options for all. |
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Posted: 11/16/2020 5:18:32 PM EDT
[#32]
Yeah, the standard non-FF KAC RAS needs to be on the Mk18/Block 1 list for the later period guns.
It also might be helpful to break accessories into two categories: "As Issued" and "Common/In The Wild Alternatives." Something like that. Perhaps separate the Mk18/Block 1 into "Early Period" (RIS, LMT BUIS) and "Late Period" (RAS, Matech, KAC 300m, etc.); then follow with the Block 1.5/PR. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 11/16/2020 6:38:38 PM EDT
[#33]
still only about 65% gay, 35% left to go
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Posted: 11/16/2020 11:33:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Dyzastr]
[#34]
Update: earlier on this page or last page I stated that the closed tine and the 4 prong had the same dimensions for the extension that butts up against the shims/ barrel, but here you can see the closed tine has a longer dimension. I do believe the muzzle brake has the same dimension as the 4 prong. Krytrons could probably confirm or deny this.
 Pile o' mod 0 goodies. Received the correct lower rail for the RIS. Waiting on the barrel to arrive. I can't decide if I should put the closed tine on this build, or if I should use the kac m4qd? Im also planning on swapping out the old school aim point mount for a Wilcox comp m. 
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Posted: 11/17/2020 11:48:22 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: Update: earlier on this page or last page I stated that the closed tine and the 4 prong had the same dimensions for the extension that butts up against the shims/ barrel, but here you can see the closed tine has a longer dimension. I do believe the muzzle brake has the same dimension as the 4 prong. Krytrons could probably confirm or deny this. https://i.imgur.com/xpW9HjE.jpg Pile o' mod 0 goodies. Received the correct lower rail for the RIS. Waiting on the barrel to arrive. I can't decide if I should put the closed tine on this build, or if I should use the kac m4qd? Im also planning on swapping out the old school aim point mount for a Wilcox comp m. https://i.imgur.com/qSw8F2K.jpg FH-556-RC .170 SF3P-556-1/2-28 .170 SFCT-556-1/2-28 .210 WARCOMP-556-1/2-28 .220 WARCOMP-556-CTN-1/2-28 .360 SFMB-556-1/2-28 .170 |
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Posted: 11/17/2020 4:14:16 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: Update: earlier on this page or last page I stated that the closed tine and the 4 prong had the same dimensions for the extension that butts up against the shims/ barrel, but here you can see the closed tine has a longer dimension. I do believe the muzzle brake has the same dimension as the 4 prong. Krytrons could probably confirm or deny this. https://i.imgur.com/xpW9HjE.jpg Pile o' mod 0 goodies. Received the correct lower rail for the RIS. Waiting on the barrel to arrive. I can't decide if I should put the closed tine on this build, or if I should use the kac m4qd? Im also planning on swapping out the old school aim point mount for a Wilcox comp m. https://i.imgur.com/qSw8F2K.jpg Looks like if you dropped the beveled spacer shim (not strictly necessary anyway) that'd give you about the same suppressor/rail gap. Yeah, the SFMB is the same. My gap actually ended up slightly less with the MB just due to its timing with fewer shims. |
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Posted: 11/17/2020 5:04:20 PM EDT
[#37]
Originally Posted By pezboytate: FH-556-RC .170 SF3P-556-1/2-28 .170 SFCT-556-1/2-28 .210 WARCOMP-556-1/2-28 .220 WARCOMP-556-CTN-1/2-28 .360 SFMB-556-1/2-28 .170 Originally Posted By krdt: Looks like if you dropped the beveled spacer shim (not strictly necessary anyway) that'd give you about the same suppressor/rail gap. Yeah, the SFMB is the same. My gap actually ended up slightly less with the MB just due to its timing with fewer shims. |
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Posted: 11/17/2020 5:39:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: krdt]
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: thank you, I'll have to save this. Good to know. I've read both sides, where some say if you use shims you must use the beveled spacer, some say not necessary. It says it's for correct alignment. Either way, I'm going to use the 4p on my block2, since my barrel is already on the long side of 10.3.(close to 10.4). Will run the ct on one of the block1 uppers. Can't decide which at this point between mod0, devgru currently with b.e. Meyers 4p, or eod with vltor casv. I'm considering putting the m4qd on the mod0, leaving the b.e. meyers on the devgru, and installing the ct on the eod build. I'd like to have block1 and a block2 capable of running the rc. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: Originally Posted By pezboytate: FH-556-RC .170 SF3P-556-1/2-28 .170 SFCT-556-1/2-28 .210 WARCOMP-556-1/2-28 .220 WARCOMP-556-CTN-1/2-28 .360 SFMB-556-1/2-28 .170 Originally Posted By krdt: Looks like if you dropped the beveled spacer shim (not strictly necessary anyway) that'd give you about the same suppressor/rail gap. Yeah, the SFMB is the same. My gap actually ended up slightly less with the MB just due to its timing with fewer shims. Aside from acting as a spacer (which is basically required when using a short base device like the 4P/SFMB/etc. on a 10.3/RIS II to give the RC locking collar clearance), the only other purpose of the beveled spacer is to assure a flat mounting surface in the event your barrel shoulder isn't perfectly flat from the thread base to the edge. Some barrels aren't undercut and have a taper at the thread base. On the majority of quality barrels this isn't a concern, and plenty of suppressor mounts don't even come with a beveled spacer (M4QD, for example). The beveled spacer just assures no-brainer mounting across the widest selection of barrels, even those without a true 90 degree shoulder. As long as your shoulder face is flat, it isn't required (unless you need it for clearance). |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 3:58:28 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By krdt: Yeah, the standard non-FF KAC RAS needs to be on the Mk18/Block 1 list for the later period guns. It also might be helpful to break accessories into two categories: "As Issued" and "Common/In The Wild Alternatives." Something like that. Perhaps separate the Mk18/Block 1 into "Early Period" (RIS, LMT BUIS) and "Late Period" (RAS, Matech, KAC 300m, etc.); then follow with the Block 1.5/PR.  |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 4:12:47 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Theodoric: Like this? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/124774/Screen_Shot_2020-11-18_at_1_57_29_PM-1690193.png Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Theodoric: Originally Posted By krdt: Yeah, the standard non-FF KAC RAS needs to be on the Mk18/Block 1 list for the later period guns. It also might be helpful to break accessories into two categories: "As Issued" and "Common/In The Wild Alternatives." Something like that. Perhaps separate the Mk18/Block 1 into "Early Period" (RIS, LMT BUIS) and "Late Period" (RAS, Matech, KAC 300m, etc.); then follow with the Block 1.5/PR. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/124774/Screen_Shot_2020-11-18_at_1_57_29_PM-1690193.png I appreciate the effort but it seems like there needs to be way more columns for this to be very useful. Depends how correct you want to be but the Mk18 Mod 0 and CQBR should each be their own thing. For instance, the CQBR would typically have an M4A1 LRG and a KAC 300m rear while the Mk18 Mod 0 would typically have a converted M16A1 LRG and an LMT rear. Then you have parts that change over time like muzzle device, rail, accessories, etc. There's just a ton of nuance that I don't know can be covered in a single chart if that makes sense. I've been considering making a list of dates of production of upper receivers, SureFires, RASs, RIS IIs, etc. and just tackling the one thing at a time pretty daunting. |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 4:25:48 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pezboytate: I appreciate the effort but it seems like there needs to be way more columns for this to be very useful. Depends how correct you want to be but the Mk18 Mod 0 and CQBR should each be their own thing. For instance, the CQBR would typically have an M4A1 LRG and a KAC 300m rear while the Mk18 Mod 0 would typically have a converted M16A1 LRG and an LMT rear. Then you have parts that change over time like muzzle device, rail, accessories, etc. There's just a ton of nuance that I don't know can be covered in a single chart if that makes sense. I've been considering making a list of dates of production of upper receivers, SureFires, RASs, RIS IIs, etc. and just tackling the one thing at a time pretty daunting. |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 4:39:51 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Theodoric: Like this? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/124774/Screen_Shot_2020-11-18_at_1_57_29_PM-1690193.png It's almost like you haven't taken in any of the points people have been giving you. |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 4:41:26 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wissota4: It's almost like you haven't taken in any of the points people have been giving you. |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 5:56:41 PM EDT
[#44]
My m4 colt cut down showed up today. Barrel dates back to '07. Bore is still sharp and shiny.
EE pro-tip: just because a barrel is listed as 10.5", it doesn't hurt to ask questions. This is my 3rd "10.5'"' barrel. Its a perfectly cut 10.3" with correct gas port etc...   Hypothetical question: is it possible to own a barrel or other accessories that came from/ through NSWC Crane through proper channels? Just wondering how close to actual items from Crane one could get. Do they ever make items possible for civilian purchase? I know I've seen a lot of things like contract over run, mil surplus, or de-milled rifles and optics and such, just haven't seen anything specifically cqbr or Crane come up for sale. |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 5:57:04 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: Update: earlier on this page or last page I stated that the closed tine and the 4 prong had the same dimensions for the extension that butts up against the shims/ barrel, but here you can see the closed tine has a longer dimension. I do believe the muzzle brake has the same dimension as the 4 prong. Krytrons could probably confirm or deny this. https://i.imgur.com/xpW9HjE.jpg Pile o' mod 0 goodies. Received the correct lower rail for the RIS. Waiting on the barrel to arrive. I can't decide if I should put the closed tine on this build, or if I should use the kac m4qd? Im also planning on swapping out the old school aim point mount for a Wilcox comp m. https://i.imgur.com/qSw8F2K.jpg Thank you for the update. Have you installed the surefire closed tine flash hider yet? If you have, do you have a pic of it with a socom RC/RC2 mounted? |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 6:11:29 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rothperson87]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By StowaNewb: Thank you for the update. Have you installed the surefire closed tine flash hider yet? If you have, do you have a pic of it with a socom RC/RC2 mounted? The closed tine has the smaller shoulder, as opposed to the closed tine warcomp, so it should sit pretty flush to the RIS depending on how it times up to your barrel.  Attached FileHere’s how my CT sits with my RC on my 14.5" block II to give you some kind of idea...  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 6:35:21 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rothperson87: The closed tine has the smaller shoulder, as opposed to the closed tine warcomp, so it should sit pretty flush to the RIS depending on how it times up to your barrel. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/462226/1E3B3309-FD5E-4A71-A267-4D023D38EA27_jpe-1690354.JPG Here’s how my CT sits with my RC on my 14.5" block II to give you some kind of idea... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/462226/AEBA54DE-6AAC-4957-9FA6-082AA6AFA2B2_jpe-1690358.JPG Great. Thank you. So it seems a suppressor mounted on a CT will sit just slightly further from the rail than a 3/4 prong? |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 7:02:22 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Theodoric: Well, thats not good. What did I miss? |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 7:23:22 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LsuJon: Mk18 mod 0 doesn't = cqbr block 1. It's a very subtle difference but a difference non the less. The line gets even more blurred once you start talking about navy remarked 18-1 lowers. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By LsuJon: Originally Posted By Theodoric: Well, thats not good. What did I miss? |
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Posted: 11/18/2020 7:39:49 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Dyzastr: This is mainly why an updated/ current chart hasn't been done. It's not impossible, but there are a lot of subtleties/ variations to consider. A broader more general table with categories mk18 mod0, cqbr block1, cqbr block1.5, and cqbr block2 would prob produce decent results. There will be a lot of overlapping from one category to the next. Plus unless you're really into it and go above and beyond to find and a1 profile lower, you most likely know the ins and out. So every lower should obviously be a forged a2 sbrd |
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