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Posted: 8/18/2011 4:07:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/20/2011 7:35:56 PM EDT by _Soggy_]
Maybe we can get a thread where Arfcom's finest and brightest(and maybe cheapest) show of their DIY mods. I've seen some custom sling mounts, cleaning rod mounts, grip enhancers, slings, and more from arfcom.

Recon Wrap. Take a section of bicycle innertube(18" is about what I used) and make it into two pieces(or you could leave it as 1 if you want it more bulky). Tightly wrap a piece around A2 grip to desired thickness and tuck it through it's own wrap to trap it. Easiest way is when there is 1 wrap left, to wrap your finger and a2 grip together with the tube; you can then tuck the innertube where your finger is on the next pass. If you do it tight it will hold or you can add a ranger band(cut intact innertube so it looks like a rubber band) for backup.

Link Posted: 8/18/2011 4:11:32 PM EDT
I am thinking of the rear detent pin mod. That's a DIY
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 7:26:37 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Mr_Black15:
I am thinking of the rear detent pin mod. That's a DIY


Me too.

There's the trigger guard mod to use screws instead of a roll pin.
Trigger return travel mod with a set screw in the grip screw hole.
Long set screw with nylon tip in lower to tighten the upper fit.
Engage bolt stop with mag release, requires some machining skillz.
Replace bolt stop roll pin with custom machined set screw.
Home brew gas buster charging handle.

That's all my brain can think of without more coffee.

Link Posted: 8/19/2011 4:52:08 PM EDT
Your castle nut is on backwards.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 5:08:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/19/2011 5:11:22 PM EDT by iNeXile556]
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Maybe we can get a thread where Arfcom's finest and brightest....

Originally Posted By atlantisman:
Your castle nut is on backwards.

Great first post.
Welcome to the nuthouse.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 5:10:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/19/2011 5:12:43 PM EDT by Russ4777]
Originally Posted By atlantisman:
Your castle nut is on backwards.


So, if he was to turn it around, what material would he deform down into the notches to lock the nut? There is nothing on the back side. Normally, the lock plate is what gets center punched down into the notches.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 5:13:53 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Russ4777:
Originally Posted By atlantisman:
Your castle nut is on backwards.


So, if he was to turn it around, what material would he deform down into the notches to lock the nut? There is nothing on the back side. Normally, the lock plate is what gets center punched down into the notches.
That could be true, doesn't change the fact that it is on backwards.

Link Posted: 8/19/2011 5:15:53 PM EDT
Originally Posted By iNeXile556:

Originally Posted By Russ4777:
Originally Posted By atlantisman:
Your castle nut is on backwards.


So, if he was to turn it around, what material would he deform down into the notches to lock the nut? There is nothing on the back side. Normally, the lock plate is what gets center punched down into the notches.
That could be true, doesn't change the fact that it is on backwards.



You are correct. I just had a brain fart. It is on backwards.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 5:23:43 PM EDT
the staking notches are clearly visible in the photo.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 5:27:26 PM EDT

Originally Posted By atlantisman:
the staking notches are clearly visible in the photo.

Now don't go ruining Russ's whole night! He had a self admitted brain fart, it undoubtedly effected his eyesight, let's just let it go at that.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 6:08:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/19/2011 6:10:00 PM EDT by diaz_aa]
We had one that died.... Good luck. Stair tape cut to fit.

"
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 6:19:24 PM EDT
Originally Posted By atlantisman:
Your castle nut is on backwards.


It's the Les Baer way to install a castle nut.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 6:25:05 PM EDT
Originally Posted By diaz_aa:
We had one that died.... Good luck. Stair tape cut to fit.

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h456/diazaa1/2010-12-09151647.jpg"


i started doing that once... took FOREVER. so i gave up.

Link Posted: 8/19/2011 6:28:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/19/2011 6:29:08 PM EDT by InfiniteGrim]
I still love my modded trigger. Light & smooth.

100% reliable, with 5.56 & .22lr
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 7:28:28 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/19/2011 7:32:37 PM EDT by _Soggy_]
Originally Posted By iNeXile556:
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Maybe we can get a thread where Arfcom's finest and brightest....

Originally Posted By atlantisman:
Your castle nut is on backwards.

Great first post.
Welcome to the nuthouse.


I put it on "backwards" for a reason. I couldn't get it tightened and it kept coming loose. I used loctite to keep it from coming loose, it is much easier to apply loctite with the spaces when putting it on backwards.

Maybe I should add that mod to my first post?

Edit: I was hoping some people would put up some directions and pictures to the mods.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 7:32:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/19/2011 7:33:48 PM EDT by sinlessorrow]
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Originally Posted By iNeXile556:
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Maybe we can get a thread where Arfcom's finest and brightest....

Originally Posted By atlantisman:
Your castle nut is on backwards.

Great first post.
Welcome to the nuthouse.


I put it on "backwards" for a reason. I couldn't get it tightened and it kept coming loose. I used loctite to keep it from coming loose, it is much easier to apply loctite with the spaces when putting it on backwards.

Edit: I was hoping some people would put up some directions and pictures to the mods.


you do know thats why those little divets are on the opposite side? your supposed to stake and displace some metal into those to lock it down

ETA: how did you get the innertube to stay in place, i want to do this to my pressure switch on my grippod, i just dont trust that 3m velcro
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 7:44:15 PM EDT
Originally Posted By sinlessorrow:
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Originally Posted By iNeXile556:
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Maybe we can get a thread where Arfcom's finest and brightest....

Originally Posted By atlantisman:
Your castle nut is on backwards.

Great first post.
Welcome to the nuthouse.


I put it on "backwards" for a reason. I couldn't get it tightened and it kept coming loose. I used loctite to keep it from coming loose, it is much easier to apply loctite with the spaces when putting it on backwards.

Edit: I was hoping some people would put up some directions and pictures to the mods.




you do know thats why those little divets are on the opposite side? your supposed to stake and displace some metal into those to lock it down

ETA: how did you get the innertube to stay in place, i want to do this to my pressure switch on my grippod, i just dont trust that 3m velcro


Yes I know, but then it is more of a hassle(and $) to take it off later if I stake it.

When you have 1 wrap left, wrap it around your finger and A2 grip(or whatever). Come back around and tuck it through where your finger is so the end will stick out of the bottom. Make sure you are pulling it tight when you are wrapping it and it will stay. You can also make a ranger band by cutting a piece off the intact innertube. That way it will be like a very strong rubber band.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 7:47:20 PM EDT
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Originally Posted By sinlessorrow:
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Originally Posted By iNeXile556:
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Maybe we can get a thread where Arfcom's finest and brightest....

Originally Posted By atlantisman:
Your castle nut is on backwards.

Great first post.
Welcome to the nuthouse.


I put it on "backwards" for a reason. I couldn't get it tightened and it kept coming loose. I used loctite to keep it from coming loose, it is much easier to apply loctite with the spaces when putting it on backwards.

Edit: I was hoping some people would put up some directions and pictures to the mods.




you do know thats why those little divets are on the opposite side? your supposed to stake and displace some metal into those to lock it down

ETA: how did you get the innertube to stay in place, i want to do this to my pressure switch on my grippod, i just dont trust that 3m velcro


Yes I know, but then it is more of a hassle(and $) to take it off later if I stake it.

When you have 1 wrap left, wrap it around your finger and A2 grip(or whatever). Come back around and tuck it through where your finger is so the end will stick out of the bottom. Make sure you are pulling it tight when you are wrapping it and it will stay. You can also make a ranger band by cutting a piece off the intact innertube. That way it will be like a very strong rubber band.


awsome idea, this is just the solution to make sure that pressure switch doesnt go anywhere
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 8:19:29 PM EDT
This is why some people don't need to embark on amateur gun-smithing; a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.
Soggy, spend $6 and get a rra buttstock wrench, put the damn castle nut on the right way, and stake it down per the mil-spec. Don't use loc-tite, or otherwise try re-inventing the damn wheel. You won't succeed, and they will all laugh at you. Save the jerry-rigging of critical parts for the airsoft crowd.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 8:22:49 PM EDT
Originally Posted By dissipator556:
This is why some people don't need to embark on amateur gun-smithing; a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.
Soggy, spend $6 and get a rra buttstock wrench, put the damn castle nut on the right way, and stake it down per the mil-spec. Don't use loc-tite, or otherwise try re-inventing the damn wheel. You won't succeed, and they will all laugh at you. Save the jerry-rigging of critical parts for the airsoft crowd.


hey the innertube idea is a pretty good one, but yea i agree on the castle nut, things like that i prefer to be right
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 9:35:45 PM EDT
Originally Posted By dissipator556:
This is why some people don't need to embark on amateur gun-smithing; a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.
Soggy, spend $6 and get a rra buttstock wrench, put the damn castle nut on the right way, and stake it down per the mil-spec. Don't use loc-tite, or otherwise try re-inventing the damn wheel. You won't succeed, and they will all laugh at you. Save the jerry-rigging of critical parts for the airsoft crowd.


It was either not shooting(ie checking it constantly at the range) or fixing it with what I had. I will add the word temporary since some people aren't confident in it. I did this sometime last year and it hasn't been a problem. I will continue to use loctite on this particular AR unless I have a problem. YMMV.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 9:46:34 PM EDT
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Originally Posted By dissipator556:
This is why some people don't need to embark on amateur gun-smithing; a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.
Soggy, spend $6 and get a rra buttstock wrench, put the damn castle nut on the right way, and stake it down per the mil-spec. Don't use loc-tite, or otherwise try re-inventing the damn wheel. You won't succeed, and they will all laugh at you. Save the jerry-rigging of critical parts for the airsoft crowd.


It was either not shooting(ie checking it constantly at the range) or fixing it with what I had. I will add the word temporary since some people aren't confident in it. I did this sometime last year and it hasn't been a problem. I will continue to use loctite on this particular AR unless I have a problem. YMMV.


Which is why you stake it.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 11:20:38 PM EDT
Originally Posted By sinlessorrow:
Originally Posted By dissipator556:
This is why some people don't need to embark on amateur gun-smithing; a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.
Soggy, spend $6 and get a rra buttstock wrench, put the damn castle nut on the right way, and stake it down per the mil-spec. Don't use loc-tite, or otherwise try re-inventing the damn wheel. You won't succeed, and they will all laugh at you. Save the jerry-rigging of critical parts for the airsoft crowd.


hey the innertube idea is a pretty good one, but yea i agree on the castle nut, things like that i prefer to be right


sorry to say it, but the innertube is bubba'd just like the castle nut is bubba'd.
Link Posted: 8/19/2011 11:21:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/19/2011 11:23:27 PM EDT by ColonelHurtz]
Originally Posted By durabo:
Originally Posted By diaz_aa:
We had one that died.... Good luck. Stair tape cut to fit.

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h456/diazaa1/2010-12-09151647.jpg"


i started doing that once... took FOREVER. so i gave up.



Ghetto anti-slip is enamel paint with a handful of coarse sand mixed in.
Just sayin'. Works great on stair treads too.
Link Posted: 8/20/2011 6:02:37 PM EDT

Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Originally Posted By dissipator556:
This is why some people don't need to embark on amateur gun-smithing; a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.
Soggy, spend $6 and get a rra buttstock wrench, put the damn castle nut on the right way, and stake it down per the mil-spec. Don't use loc-tite, or otherwise try re-inventing the damn wheel. You won't succeed, and they will all laugh at you. Save the jerry-rigging of critical parts for the airsoft crowd.


It was either not shooting(ie checking it constantly at the range) or fixing it with what I had. I will add the word temporary since some people aren't confident in it. I did this sometime last year and it hasn't been a problem. I will continue to use loctite on this particular AR unless I have a problem. YMMV.

That is a good backpedal for your mistake. Your explination simply doesn't make any sense either, loctite can be put on with the castle nut on the right way, it works exactly the same.
Link Posted: 8/20/2011 6:28:10 PM EDT
I had a FF tube installed on my Ar10, and Armalite sent me the new ejection port door rod.

I took it to the smith, and we discovered they sent a standard rod (the same length as was already on it), instead of the longer FF tube rod.

The smith cut out a piece of semi-hard rubber and filled the gap between the rod and ff tube with it (friction fit).

It's worked great for two years.

Armalite did send the right part out, but I had to pay shipping. It's the second time they have sent me the wrong part and made me pay shipping for the right one. I'll take it back in and have the right rod put in some day, but I believe the FF tube has to be removed and it's gonna cost me a box of ammo, so I'll most likely shoot it like this til it fails or just run it with no ejection port door.
Link Posted: 8/20/2011 7:50:39 PM EDT
Originally Posted By iNeXile556:

Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Originally Posted By dissipator556:
This is why some people don't need to embark on amateur gun-smithing; a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.
Soggy, spend $6 and get a rra buttstock wrench, put the damn castle nut on the right way, and stake it down per the mil-spec. Don't use loc-tite, or otherwise try re-inventing the damn wheel. You won't succeed, and they will all laugh at you. Save the jerry-rigging of critical parts for the airsoft crowd.


It was either not shooting(ie checking it constantly at the range) or fixing it with what I had. I will add the word temporary since some people aren't confident in it. I did this sometime last year and it hasn't been a problem. I will continue to use loctite on this particular AR unless I have a problem. YMMV.

That is a good backpedal for your mistake. Your explination simply doesn't make any sense either, loctite can be put on with the castle nut on the right way, it works exactly the same.


It makes sense if you think about it or actually tried it yourself.

If you don't have anything to add to DIY Mods, then don't post. Keep on topic. I modified my original post because of it.

Arfcom also owes me a buffer retaining pin, since I decided to switch it; I really don't want to here about my castle nut if somebody closely inspects my rifle when I go shooting.

Please post pictures of the mods you have done.

Link Posted: 8/20/2011 7:56:09 PM EDT
Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Originally Posted By iNeXile556:

Originally Posted By _Soggy_:
Originally Posted By dissipator556:
This is why some people don't need to embark on amateur gun-smithing; a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.
Soggy, spend $6 and get a rra buttstock wrench, put the damn castle nut on the right way, and stake it down per the mil-spec. Don't use loc-tite, or otherwise try re-inventing the damn wheel. You won't succeed, and they will all laugh at you. Save the jerry-rigging of critical parts for the airsoft crowd.


It was either not shooting(ie checking it constantly at the range) or fixing it with what I had. I will add the word temporary since some people aren't confident in it. I did this sometime last year and it hasn't been a problem. I will continue to use loctite on this particular AR unless I have a problem. YMMV.

That is a good backpedal for your mistake. Your explination simply doesn't make any sense either, loctite can be put on with the castle nut on the right way, it works exactly the same.


It makes sense if you think about it or actually tried it yourself.

If you don't have anything to add to DIY Mods, then don't post. Keep on topic. I modified my original post because of it.

Arfcom also owes me a buffer retaining pin, since I decided to switch it; I really don't want to here about my castle nut if somebody closely inspects my rifle when I go shooting.

Please post pictures of the mods you have done.



next time i go to walmart im picking up an innertube and ill post pics after
Link Posted: 8/20/2011 9:48:06 PM EDT
Started a thread on this P-Mag mod, but it has since drifted into the archives.

Dust cover combined with a ranger floor plate: clips on the bottom of the new Rev-M mags








Link Posted: 8/20/2011 10:19:39 PM EDT
All my rifles get inner tube around the grip. Just a preference thing, nothing more.

Link Posted: 8/20/2011 10:53:28 PM EDT
Does painting count, lol.

One thing that is close to DIY is to make an early/mid-90s quick adjust two-point sling. Take the synching half of an ALICE pack shoulder strap and any sling material. I used a SAW sling from a surplus store ($5) with mine. Combine the two, and you have a quick adjust two-point. Someone will come along to explain better than I did, but it's pretty intuitive.

This is the only picture I could find of the gun I had this sling on. Right now it's in a drawer as I'm currently using a Blue Force Gear Vickers sling on my go-to gun.

Link Posted: 8/27/2011 6:57:28 PM EDT
I was thinking of taking my forward assist out and making a little compartment there. I never use the FA anyways, and then the charging handle would be easier to manipulate.
Link Posted: 8/27/2011 7:40:35 PM EDT
Originally Posted By ChickenDaddy:
I was thinking of taking my forward assist out and making a little compartment there. I never use the FA anyways, and then the charging handle would be easier to manipulate.


You're going to need that FA someday when you need to chamber a round quietly.
Leave it on for just such an occasion...
Link Posted: 8/27/2011 11:21:58 PM EDT
If you want some more padding you could try that with the wraps they use for golf clubs or tennis racquets.
Link Posted: 8/27/2011 11:43:45 PM EDT
Barrel fluting
Link Posted: 9/11/2011 1:46:32 PM EDT
There's the one from the DIY faqs about cutting off the front sight post to make a low-pro gas block.
Link Posted: 9/12/2011 5:29:36 AM EDT
Paracord wrap would be DIY i guess. Cheap too.






Link Posted: 9/14/2011 4:51:34 AM EDT
How's that wrap work out? How much heat until it burns off?
Link Posted: 9/14/2011 6:07:01 AM EDT
Originally Posted By ChickenDaddy:
How's that wrap work out? How much heat until it burns off?


The Grendel does not get mag dumps so I see little heat build up. I wrapped it because the aluminum gets damn cold and drains the warmth from my hands in cold weather. I really don't care for gloves either. You do bring up a good point about how paracord well deal with a hot barrel in a tactical situation. I don't think you could get it close to melt temp, but it may stretch or shrink??

Link Posted: 10/2/2011 7:13:42 PM EDT
Originally Posted By ChickenDaddy:
How's that wrap work out? How much heat until it burns off?


people paracord expensive optics to their rails and dont have issues
Link Posted: 10/2/2011 8:31:53 PM EDT
Originally Posted By sinlessorrow:
Originally Posted By ChickenDaddy:
How's that wrap work out? How much heat until it burns off?


people paracord expensive optics to their rails and dont have issues

DO WHAT ?

Link Posted: 10/2/2011 8:35:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/2/2011 8:35:49 PM EDT by sinlessorrow]
Originally Posted By foreman2000:
Originally Posted By sinlessorrow:
Originally Posted By ChickenDaddy:
How's that wrap work out? How much heat until it burns off?


people paracord expensive optics to their rails and dont have issues

DO WHAT ?



.mil folks do, if you ever notice they will usually tie down optics and peq's to keep from losing them in the rare case their mounts come loose

pretty sure they use gutted paracord tied to the item and then tied to the rail
Link Posted: 10/2/2011 10:45:49 PM EDT
Originally Posted By sinlessorrow:
Originally Posted By foreman2000:
Originally Posted By sinlessorrow:
Originally Posted By ChickenDaddy:
How's that wrap work out? How much heat until it burns off?


people paracord expensive optics to their rails and dont have issues

DO WHAT ?



.mil folks do, if you ever notice they will usually tie down optics and peq's to keep from losing them in the rare case their mounts come loose

pretty sure they use gutted paracord tied to the item and then tied to the rail


Stainless aircraft lock wire baby beats para chord by miles any day
Link Posted: 10/3/2011 9:30:34 AM EDT
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
I still love my modded trigger. Light & smooth.

100% reliable, with 5.56 & .22lr


What is your trigger mod?

Link Posted: 10/3/2011 9:31:45 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Mounger:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
I still love my modded trigger. Light & smooth.

100% reliable, with 5.56 & .22lr


What is your trigger mod?



I believe its referred to as the 15 mintues trigger job. Basically I cut teh one hammer spring leg and I smoothed the surfaces on the trigger assembly.
Link Posted: 10/3/2011 9:46:06 AM EDT
Ah yes! Great modification! I have performed this several times. It rocks!
Link Posted: 10/3/2011 10:27:57 AM EDT
Link to this trigger mod?
Link Posted: 10/3/2011 11:11:02 AM EDT
Originally Posted By ChickenDaddy:
Link to this trigger mod?


Yes, do tell. Interested......
Link Posted: 10/3/2011 3:31:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/3/2011 3:35:30 PM EDT by foursixty]
I don't like the trigger mod. Just preference. It works great for a lot of people, but you can buy a trigger and hammer spring kit from JP that does the same thing, is more reliable, and takes about 3 minutes to put in. They only cost about $9.00. Not knocking the mod, just saying.

trigger spring kit

JP Enterprises site
Link Posted: 10/3/2011 3:59:26 PM EDT
Originally Posted By foursixty:
I don't like the trigger mod. Just preference. It works great for a lot of people, but you can buy a trigger and hammer spring kit from JP that does the same thing, is more reliable, and takes about 3 minutes to put in. They only cost about $9.00. Not knocking the mod, just saying.

trigger spring kit

JP Enterprises site


I wouldn't recommend that in a serious duty gun.

I still remember putting in my first franken AR and thinking I done good. The second time I pulled the trigger, it went "click" instead of bang. Light primer strikes. (i wasn't using Wolf or any of that garbage)
"Click" is the loudest sound you'll ever hear from your gun.

I've seen no reputable carbine course instructor or armorer recommend using lighter springs as a "just as good, cheaper, and more reliable too!" modification. Ever. However, I've heard PLENTY of them say to stick with a quality fire control group, because all manner of lightened whiz bang triggers and setups manage to go tits up.

YMMV.
Link Posted: 10/3/2011 4:24:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/3/2011 4:26:42 PM EDT by foursixty]
Originally Posted By Foxnews_FTW:
Originally Posted By foursixty:
I don't like the trigger mod. Just preference. It works great for a lot of people, but you can buy a trigger and hammer spring kit from JP that does the same thing, is more reliable, and takes about 3 minutes to put in. They only cost about $9.00. Not knocking the mod, just saying.

trigger spring kit

JP Enterprises site


I wouldn't recommend that in a serious duty gun.

I still remember putting in my first franken AR and thinking I done good. The second time I pulled the trigger, it went "click" instead of bang. Light primer strikes. (i wasn't using Wolf or any of that garbage)
"Click" is the loudest sound you'll ever hear from your gun.

I've seen no reputable carbine course instructor or armorer recommend using lighter springs as a "just as good, cheaper, and more reliable too!" modification. Ever. However, I've heard PLENTY of them say to stick with a quality fire control group, because all manner of lightened whiz bang triggers and setups manage to go tits up.

YMMV.


What exactly are you disagreeing with me about? I never said anything about being more reliable than a stock trigger. There is nothing more reliable than a mil-spec trigger. Guess what? Mil-Spec triggers suck. I was just pointing out that the kit is MUCH more reliable than cutting off one leg of your standard hammer spring. It is much more reliable than a "modded stock trigger". I don't know what you put in yours. The JP that I mentioned works flawlessly in mine with every available ammo that I have tried so far.

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