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Link Posted: 4/27/2022 7:23:26 PM EDT
[#1]
Link Posted: 4/27/2022 9:56:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Washpipe] [#2]
I have a question for everyone with the ARMS #40 rear sight, #22 M rings and a Mark 4 3.5-10. Just took my new build to the range yesterday to sight it in and was testing the eye relief. You can see in the photo below, I’m running the scope further back with the PRI rear sight and it’s very comfortable there while shooting from a bench. I’m also running an A1 stock. With the #40 inbound from Hunterex, the scope will be ahead of the rear sight and I found the eye relief to be too short, without going to a more unnatural position with the scope that far forward in order to eliminate some serious scope shadow. Just curious how everyone is working with this setup and the answer is just nose to the charging handle, or go with high rings.
By the way, very impressed with the accuracy when shooting the right ammo. It seemed to really like the 69gr IMI more than the 77gr Federal, but shot both well.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 4/27/2022 10:21:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: teamjawbox] [#3]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Washpipe:
I have a question for everyone with the ARMS #40 rear sight, #22 M rings and a Mark 4 3.5-10. Just took my new build to the range yesterday to sight it in and was testing the eye relief. You can see in the photo below, I’m running the scope further back with the PRI rear sight and it’s very comfortable there while shooting from a bench. I’m also running an A1 stock. With the #40 inbound from Hunterex, the scope will be ahead of the rear sight and I found the eye box to be too short, without going to a more unnatural position with the scope that far forward in order to eliminate some serious scope shadow. Just curious how everyone is working with this setup and the answer is just nose to the charging handle, or go with high rings.
By the way, very impressed with the accuracy when shooting the right ammo. It seemed to really like the 69gr IMI more than the 77gr Federal, but shot both well.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/557527/DFC088B4-7328-4D25-A095-12AA62C4A69F_jpe-2364356.JPG
View Quote


NTCH or use an adjustable stock.  High rings on that rifle would be heresy.  The 3.5-10 has very good eye relief in my experience, pretty forgiving.  I haven't had any probs on my gen 3 build.  Though every person's eyes are different.  I'd def give it a try before you change anything.  You may find it's not as bad as envisioned.  No pun intended.  

The Emperor protects.
Link Posted: 4/27/2022 10:55:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By teamjawbox:


NTCH or use an adjustable stock.  High rings on that rifle would be heresy.  The 3.5-10 has very good eye relief in my experience, pretty forgiving.  I haven't had any probs on my gen 3 build.  Though every person's eyes are different.  I'd def give it a try before you change anything.  You may find it's not as bad as envisioned.  No pun intended.  

The Emperor protects.
View Quote


This seems to be a very similar spot for my cheek weld, but no way that eye relief would work for me at 10x.
Hard to tell, but maybe he’s at low power.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 4/28/2022 1:13:01 AM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Washpipe:


This seems to be a very similar spot for my cheek weld, but no way that eye relief would work for me at 10x.
Hard to tell, but maybe he’s at low power.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/557527/FB09FA3F-97D9-4A5D-913C-39A3F1B0AB1B_jpe-2364454.JPG
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Washpipe:
Originally Posted By teamjawbox:


NTCH or use an adjustable stock.  High rings on that rifle would be heresy.  The 3.5-10 has very good eye relief in my experience, pretty forgiving.  I haven't had any probs on my gen 3 build.  Though every person's eyes are different.  I'd def give it a try before you change anything.  You may find it's not as bad as envisioned.  No pun intended.  

The Emperor protects.


This seems to be a very similar spot for my cheek weld, but no way that eye relief would work for me at 10x.
Hard to tell, but maybe he’s at low power.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/557527/FB09FA3F-97D9-4A5D-913C-39A3F1B0AB1B_jpe-2364454.JPG


I run 3.5-10 as far back as I can. The butler creek lens cap I have on it actually rubs the ARMS #40, but it worked well for me.  Thankfully the 3.5-10's are pretty forgiving relative to other MK12 correct scopes.  But may be worth trying once your sight comes in.  Have a 3.5-10 on my H with a Socom stock that's Jerry rigged/locked into place and with the back of the scope aligned with the back edge of the receiver it works well.  

Here's how I'm running mine on my gen 3 mod 0.  My scope is a little further back than the one in the pic you referenced for your cheek placement.  Obviously my cheek placement may be different than yours.  But I would def recommend trying it out before swapping out rings and stuff.  Maybe you'll find a sweet spot!  Best of luck!

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 4/28/2022 12:20:07 PM EDT
[#6]
Yeah, planning to do what is reasonable to make it work.
Was just wondering how everyone was dealing with it.

I usually run my adjustable stocks in the first hole from fully collapsed anyway, which matches up almost exactly with the A1 stock length.
Nose to the charging handle it is.
Link Posted: 4/28/2022 2:27:53 PM EDT
[#7]
Just a heads up, what will probably be my last batch of Mk12 ballisticards is going to be available tomorrow at 5pm CST. The industrial printer that these get made on broke, and repairs are probably worth more than he's made doing these last few batches. Not to mention he's also retired and it sounds like enjoying it. If it gets fixed, I may be able to get more but it seems uncertain as to whether that'll happen or not.
Link Posted: 4/28/2022 2:34:15 PM EDT
[#8]
Yay, I need to get a set of those cards! Any foam inserts on the horizon?
Link Posted: 4/28/2022 3:54:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Markius-Fox] [#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Washpipe:
Yeah, planning to do what is reasonable to make it work.
Was just wondering how everyone was dealing with it.

I usually run my adjustable stocks in the first hole from fully collapsed anyway, which matches up almost exactly with the A1 stock length.
Nose to the charging handle it is.
View Quote

The fully extended length of the M4 stock, at least with a Colt 4 position receiver extension, is 0.25" longer than A1. One position in from full extension is 0.50" shorter than A1. One position away from collapsed on a 4 position is 1.25" shorter than A1. So, fully extended with a 4 position receiver extension would be closest to A1 length. A newer 6 position might be closer to A1 at one position away from full extension, I do not know.
Link Posted: 4/28/2022 4:41:40 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Markius-Fox:

The fully extended length of the M4 stock, at least with a Colt 4 position receiver extension, is 0.25" longer than A1. One position in from full extension is 0.50" shorter than A1. One position away from collapsed on a 4 position is 1.25" shorter than A1. So, fully extended with a 4 position receiver extension would be closest to A1 length. A newer 6 position might be closer to A1 at one position away from full extension, I do not know.
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Will check that when I return home.
It could be the second hole, but no further out.
Measured a B5 sopmod stock on a Colt receiver extension.
I think the B5 is longer than a CAR from pin to the end of the butt pad and I didn’t specify.
I used the measurement to decide if I wanted an A1 or A2.
The A1 fits perfectly.
Link Posted: 4/28/2022 5:39:05 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BravoSierra:
Yay, I need to get a set of those cards! Any foam inserts on the horizon?
View Quote


Not in the short term. Looking to spool down for a little bit. If demand is there in the fall I may look into another run.
Link Posted: 4/28/2022 5:57:19 PM EDT
[#12]
Hopefully some other ya-hoos with a specific  "need" will help with that demand by then.
Link Posted: 4/30/2022 3:43:49 PM EDT
[#13]
Dad came by to shoot his air rifle in the yard and when he broke it out I noticed the rings…..apparently I got them for him several years back. Needless to say I am getting him replacements and these are going to the Mod1 build..they are highs but it should work out!Attachment Attached File
Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 4/30/2022 5:47:18 PM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By flashooter:
Dad came by to shoot his air rifle in the yard and when he broke it out I noticed the rings…..apparently I got them for him several years back. Needless to say I am getting him replacements and these are going to the Mod1 build..they are highs but it should work out!https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1077/79D2848F-46CF-43BE-878A-123723915672_jpe-2367451.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1077/4401E96A-9A69-4EDF-AA6B-E2C536D001F1_jpe-2367452.JPG
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That's awesome and a cool story.  And since they are Highs they are exactly what you need for a mod 1 (assuming clone correct is what you were going for).  

Congrats!
Link Posted: 5/1/2022 7:30:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: thatdtmsguy] [#15]
Does anyone else's OCM5 / AEM5 come loose when firing? I took my OCM5 out for the first time yesterday and noticed the suppressor coming loose after every shot, even when i cinch the fuck out of it... Im getting 7 rotations when tightening it down. Not 100% on what brake im running, though i believe it to be an AE (preinstalled before i bought upper); but i do know the collar is an AE because i put it on. Are my threads too clean or something lol. When i got home from the range i did a little experiment. Even after tightening the OCM5 down, the force of the BCG slamming into the chamber after depressing the bolt release causes it to come loose after about 3 x releases...I guess my next plan of action should be switching the brake out for an otter creek one?  
Link Posted: 5/1/2022 8:23:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: edwin907] [#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By thatdtmsguy:
Does anyone else's OCM5 / AEM5 come loose when firing? I took my OCM5 out for the first time yesterday and noticed the suppressor coming loose after every shot, even when i cinch the fuck out of it... Im getting 7 rotations when tightening it down. Not 100% on what brake im running, though i believe it to be an AE (preinstalled before i bought upper); but i do know the collar is an AE because i put it on. Are my threads too clean or something lol. When i got home from the range i did a little experiment. Even after tightening the OCM5 down, the force of the BCG slamming into the chamber after depressing the bolt release causes it to come loose after about 3 x releases...I guess my next plan of action should be switching the brake out for an otter creek one?  

https://i.postimg.cc/zfDPyrXf/IMG-1666.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/VvHzVRGq/IMG-1667.jpg
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I have 18" Douglas and CLE Krieger and a 16" CLE Krieger all profiled for and installed with original OPS 12th brakes and collars.
I get 4.2 to 5.1 turns on them with original OPS 12th suppressors and have never had one come loose.
That includes some pretty spirited firing with MK262, BHBB 75gr, Hornady #8162, Q3131A, Q3131, Winchester M855 (stupid, penetrators off-center), LC M855, BH 69gr, LC M193, even yellow box Norinco 55gr.

I'd check the collar.  The below pic shows an original OPS collar with a LT gas block, the LT block was shortened at the front so as not to interfere with the collar's setting on the barrel shoulder (I've been asked about it before).

Link Posted: 5/1/2022 8:55:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Gremyashchy1911] [#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By thatdtmsguy:
Does anyone else's OCM5 / AEM5 come loose when firing? I took my OCM5 out for the first time yesterday and noticed the suppressor coming loose after every shot, even when i cinch the fuck out of it... Im getting 7 rotations when tightening it down. Not 100% on what brake im running, though i believe it to be an AE (preinstalled before i bought upper); but i do know the collar is an AE because i put it on. Are my threads too clean or something lol. When i got home from the range i did a little experiment. Even after tightening the OCM5 down, the force of the BCG slamming into the chamber after depressing the bolt release causes it to come loose after about 3 x releases...I guess my next plan of action should be switching the brake out for an otter creek one?  

https://i.postimg.cc/zfDPyrXf/IMG-1666.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/VvHzVRGq/IMG-1667.jpg
View Quote



May be worth looking at the collar taper see if they are matching well. If the angle was off much it wouldn’t allow it to “stick” into the taper.  
My AEM5 has never tried to come loose even after long days at the range. Don’t have a lot of time on it but a light snug and it’s never worked loose.
Link Posted: 5/1/2022 9:34:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Washpipe] [#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By thatdtmsguy:
Does anyone else's OCM5 / AEM5 come loose when firing? I took my OCM5 out for the first time yesterday and noticed the suppressor coming loose after every shot, even when i cinch the fuck out of it... Im getting 7 rotations when tightening it down. Not 100% on what brake im running, though i believe it to be an AE (preinstalled before i bought upper); but i do know the collar is an AE because i put it on. Are my threads too clean or something lol. When i got home from the range i did a little experiment. Even after tightening the OCM5 down, the force of the BCG slamming into the chamber after depressing the bolt release causes it to come loose after about 3 x releases...I guess my next plan of action should be switching the brake out for an otter creek one?  

https://i.postimg.cc/zfDPyrXf/IMG-1666.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/VvHzVRGq/IMG-1667.jpg
View Quote


It’s hard to tell from the photo, but it doesn’t look like there is a lot of surface area mating between the collar and the suppressor taper. This could cause the suppressor to loosen prematurely.
You can check this by applying Prussian Blue to either the collar taper or the suppressor taper and install.
Remove the suppressor and see how much dye was removed and/or transferred to the opposing taper.
That is your contact area. Also check that the two surfaces are mating 100%.
OCL should know how much contact area is required to lock the suppressor on the tapered collar.
It could be that a taper was cut at the wrong angle.
Those would be my first steps if I had the same issue.
Link Posted: 5/1/2022 10:35:21 PM EDT
[#19]
Was at my brother-in-law's today for my nephew's birthday and we were playing army men when I noticed this little guy among the accessories (impressive detail considering the Army guys were just these sort of goofy looking figurines):

Attachment Attached File


Attachment Attached File

Link Posted: 5/1/2022 11:24:26 PM EDT
[#20]
I have a very nice freind.

So I guess I'm in.

Well, it's a start. Everything is basically NOS.

Link Posted: 5/1/2022 11:41:51 PM EDT
[#21]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Toothpicksandkatchup:
I have a very nice freind.

So I guess I'm in.

Well, it's a start. Everything is basically NOS.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52044385600_e5b92ce9d9_h.jpg
View Quote


That's a helluva start for sure!  Grats on that gas buster.
Link Posted: 5/2/2022 5:32:19 AM EDT
[#22]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Toothpicksandkatchup:
I have a very nice freind.

So I guess I'm in.

Well, it's a start. Everything is basically NOS.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52044385600_e5b92ce9d9_h.jpg
View Quote


Now the fun part is matching all the other parts to that 2003 handle.
Link Posted: 5/2/2022 11:16:51 AM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Hunterex:


Now the fun part is matching all the other parts to that 2003 handle.
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Ha! Do fun and expensive mean the same thing? lol I know, I don't know how I'm gonna mange finding all time appropriate parts though! I was really just planning on grabbing a PRI upper but I see some complaints that it's really not all that 'correct'.
Link Posted: 5/2/2022 11:54:14 AM EDT
[#24]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Toothpicksandkatchup:


Ha! Do fun and expensive mean the same thing? lol I know, I don't know how I'm gonna mange finding all time appropriate parts though! I was really just planning on grabbing a PRI upper but I see some complaints that it's really not all that 'correct'.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Originally Posted By Toothpicksandkatchup:
Originally Posted By Hunterex:


Now the fun part is matching all the other parts to that 2003 handle.


Ha! Do fun and expensive mean the same thing? lol I know, I don't know how I'm gonna mange finding all time appropriate parts though! I was really just planning on grabbing a PRI upper but I see some complaints that it's really not all that 'correct'.


If your goal is a clone, and I sincerely hope it is given the charging handle and rings you're using, a current production PRI ain't it

It'll be a fun experience though.  Just know it may be cheaper to skip it and just start a coke habit.
Link Posted: 5/2/2022 12:04:57 PM EDT
[#25]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By teamjawbox:


If your goal is a clone, and I sincerely hope it is given the charging handle and rings you're using, a current production PRI ain't it

It'll be a fun experience though.  Just know it may be cheaper to skip it and just start a coke habit.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Originally Posted By teamjawbox:
Originally Posted By Toothpicksandkatchup:
Originally Posted By Hunterex:


Now the fun part is matching all the other parts to that 2003 handle.


Ha! Do fun and expensive mean the same thing? lol I know, I don't know how I'm gonna mange finding all time appropriate parts though! I was really just planning on grabbing a PRI upper but I see some complaints that it's really not all that 'correct'.


If your goal is a clone, and I sincerely hope it is given the charging handle and rings you're using, a current production PRI ain't it

It'll be a fun experience though.  Just know it may be cheaper to skip it and just start a coke habit.



Yeah...I know lol. Well that's the thing, this stuff was all free. Hence the "I have a very nice friend" But given the correctness of it I really should do it right.
Link Posted: 5/2/2022 2:45:34 PM EDT
[#26]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Toothpicksandkatchup:



Yeah...I know lol. Well that's the thing, this stuff was all free. Hence the "I have a very nice friend" But given the correctness of it I really should do it right.
View Quote


The first taste is free; your friend might be your full time clone dealer soon enough.

But seriously…I need friends like that.
Link Posted: 5/2/2022 3:16:02 PM EDT
[#27]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Svensson:


The first taste is free; your friend might be your full time clone dealer soon enough.

But seriously…I need friends like that.
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Originally Posted By Svensson:
Originally Posted By Toothpicksandkatchup:



Yeah...I know lol. Well that's the thing, this stuff was all free. Hence the "I have a very nice friend" But given the correctness of it I really should do it right.


The first taste is free; your friend might be your full time clone dealer soon enough.

But seriously…I need friends like that.


Link Posted: 5/3/2022 11:04:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Washpipe] [#28]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By teamjawbox:


I run 3.5-10 as far back as I can. The butler creek lens cap I have on it actually rubs the ARMS #40, but it worked well for me.  Thankfully the 3.5-10's are pretty forgiving relative to other MK12 correct scopes.  But may be worth trying once your sight comes in.  Have a 3.5-10 on my H with a Socom stock that's Jerry rigged/locked into place and with the back of the scope aligned with the back edge of the receiver it works well.  

Here's how I'm running mine on my gen 3 mod 0.  My scope is a little further back than the one in the pic you referenced for your cheek placement.  Obviously my cheek placement may be different than yours.  But I would def recommend trying it out before swapping out rings and stuff.  Maybe you'll find a sweet spot!  Best of luck!

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/343681/20220414_194229_jpg-2364527.JPG
View Quote



Installed the Leupy ahead of the rear sight and set the diopter. It’s as far back as possible without contacting the rear sight. Definitely no counter clockwise turns left.  Eye relief isn’t optimal for me at 10x, but manageable while bench shooting.
My suppressor is landing at my FFL today, so looking forward to the test fit and filing for the stamp at the kiosk. Anybody had a form 4 approved lately and can comment on the current time frame for e-file approvals?

Attachment Attached File

Link Posted: 5/3/2022 2:14:57 PM EDT
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Washpipe:



Installed the Leupy ahead of the rear sight and set the diopter. It’s as far back as possible without contacting the rear sight. Definitely no counter clockwise turns left.  Eye relief isn’t optimal for me at 10x, but manageable while bench shooting.
My suppressor is landing at my FFL today, so looking forward to the test fit and filing for the stamp at the kiosk. Anybody had a form 4 approved lately and can comment on the current time frame for e-file approvals?

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/557527/05EAF987-4401-4AAA-ABAF-A776CE690D97_jpe-2370789.JPG
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I typically put it another notch forwards to allow for lens cap. You usually see the same on the issued guns whether a Leupold/Butler cap or even a ghetto one made of 100mph tape.
Link Posted: 5/3/2022 7:38:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Washpipe] [#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By lancecriminal86:


I typically put it another notch forwards to allow for lens cap. You usually see the same on the issued guns whether a Leupold/Butler cap or even a ghetto one made of 100mph tape.
View Quote


Yeah, I agree. I don’t like losing my rear cap either, but I’m trying to stay back on the stock as far as I can, and still avoid scope shadow. My nose is pretty close to the charging handle as is at 10x and I’m trying to stay in a position that’s fairly comfortable and one that feels fairly natural. I’ll play around with it some.
Link Posted: 5/3/2022 8:32:01 PM EDT
[#31]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Toothpicksandkatchup:
I have a very nice freind.

So I guess I'm in.

Well, it's a start. Everything is basically NOS.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52044385600_e5b92ce9d9_h.jpg
View Quote



Very nice score on the Gasbuster and rings. Very nice friend also!
Link Posted: 5/4/2022 8:09:52 AM EDT
[#32]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Washpipe:

Anybody had a form 4 approved lately and can comment on the current time frame for e-file approvals?

View Quote


It's all over the place. I've had customers' stamps come back recently between 56 days and 95 days with about a dozen more over 4 months without an approval yet.
I'm also receiving paper forms back from almost a year ago too.
Link Posted: 5/4/2022 8:47:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Washpipe] [#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ditch-Tiger:


It's all over the place. I've had customers' stamps come back recently between 56 days and 95 days with about a dozen more over 4 months without an approval yet.
I'm also receiving paper forms back from almost a year ago too.
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My can came in and I was surprised to get 8-1/2 turns to the collar on my barrel. Anyway, it’s in jail now, but I did use the kiosk from SilencerShop. It’s all kinda strange to me - I’ve done a few form 1’s, but never used the kiosk and app before. The gun shop owner wasn’t very specific about what comes next, but he said there are a few steps he has to take before I pay for my stamp. I also didn’t buy the can from him or SilencerShop- I transferred it there, so that might change some things. I’m waiting for him to contact me and hoping for a fast approval.
Link Posted: 5/4/2022 9:35:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: kmcale] [#34]
I still have to finish this pig .. @Hunterex forgot to give reply to email, I'm good for now, thanks for keeping me in mind though man!

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Went back to the ol x24 on the Mod Juan, put the F1 on some non-clone atrocity
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Link Posted: 5/5/2022 8:56:25 AM EDT
[#35]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By BravoSierra:
Hopefully some other ya-hoos with a specific  "need" will help with that demand by then.
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Here I am, I'm new to the thread, so forgive my ignorance.

I posted elsewhere about building a Mk12 Mod0 and was directed here.

What kind of cards and foam inserts are we talking about?
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 9:01:41 AM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By teamjawbox:


If your goal is a clone, and I sincerely hope it is given the charging handle and rings you're using, a current production PRI ain't it

It'll be a fun experience though.  Just know it may be cheaper to skip it and just start a coke habit.
View Quote



I was going to hit the easy button on go the PRI route as well. I'm not reading through 1117 pages of posts to find out, so...

What are the differences between the PRI production rifles and uppers versus a true clone? Is it even still possible to source all the parts for an exact replica?
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 9:08:03 AM EDT
[Last Edit: kmcale] [#37]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Saber329:


What are the differences between the PRI production rifles and uppers versus a true clone? Is it even still possible to source all the parts for an exact replica?
View Quote

The current repro shit doesnt look like the original/"correct" stuff, for those that know, it's an eye sore. Ngl, it will be a chore to find the right handguard, as well as the right wingless swan sleeve - that and you'll be paying a hefty penny for it if you found them.
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 9:11:06 AM EDT
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Saber329:


What kind of cards and foam inserts are we talking about?
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@ringer706
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 9:15:14 AM EDT
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Saber329:



I was going to hit the easy button on go the PRI route as well. I'm not reading through 1117 pages of posts to find out, so...

What are the differences between the PRI production rifles and uppers versus a true clone? Is it even still possible to source all the parts for an exact replica?
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A PRI rifle will have their replica of the PEQ-2 Swan Sleeve and possibly their own rear BUIS instead of an A.R.M.S. #40STD. The front sight/gas block will also more than likely be the crossbolt variety. Others can chime in with the other differences.

It is possible to find parts for an exact clone or very close to an exact clone, but it will cost a lot more money than you might be willing to invest into the project. You'll also need to search high and low for very hard to find parts if that is the route you wish to take.
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 9:22:39 AM EDT
[#40]
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Originally Posted By Markius-Fox:


A PRI rifle will have their replica of the PEQ-2 Swan Sleeve and possibly their own rear BUIS instead of an A.R.M.S. #40STD. The front sight/gas block will also more than likely be the crossbolt variety. Others can chime in with the other differences.
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Originally Posted By Markius-Fox:


A PRI rifle will have their replica of the PEQ-2 Swan Sleeve and possibly their own rear BUIS instead of an A.R.M.S. #40STD. The front sight/gas block will also more than likely be the crossbolt variety. Others can chime in with the other differences.


To add, locking collar and barrel nut are wildly different, vent holes in the tube are different size/different placement, the round head screws are in different spots and different size, and the extra smaller holes along the body of the handguard. -this is all assuming you're referring to the early Mod 0. The repro PEQ-2 has a slot milled into the sides that I find to be grossly unappealing compared to the originals.

It is possible to find parts for an exact clone or very close to an exact clone, but it will cost a lot more money than you might be willing to invest into the project. You'll also need to search high and low for very hard to find parts if that is the route you wish to take.

Early Mod 0 I'd say is the most expensive of the variations to take on if you're looking for clone accuracy
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 11:58:35 AM EDT
[#41]
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Originally Posted By kmcale:


To add, locking collar and barrel nut are wildly different, vent holes in the tube are different size/different placement, the round head screws are in different spots and different size, and the extra smaller holes along the body of the handguard. -this is all assuming you're referring to the early Mod 0. The repro PEQ-2 has a slot milled into the sides that I find to be grossly unappealing compared to the originals.


Early Mod 0 I'd say is the most expensive of the variations to take on if you're looking for clone accuracy
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That's why I went late-Mod 0 with my build

Still not cheap, and the PRI upper still needed some work, but far closer out of the box, based on what I've been reading here.
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 12:16:21 PM EDT
[#42]
Thanks guys.

I'll hang in here to learn more.
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 12:18:20 PM EDT
[#43]

Link Posted: 5/5/2022 12:38:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: teamjawbox] [#44]
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Originally Posted By towerofpower94:


That's why I went late-Mod 0 with my build

Still not cheap, and the PRI upper still needed some work, but far closer out of the box, based on what I've been reading here.
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Originally Posted By towerofpower94:
Originally Posted By kmcale:


To add, locking collar and barrel nut are wildly different, vent holes in the tube are different size/different placement, the round head screws are in different spots and different size, and the extra smaller holes along the body of the handguard. -this is all assuming you're referring to the early Mod 0. The repro PEQ-2 has a slot milled into the sides that I find to be grossly unappealing compared to the originals.


Early Mod 0 I'd say is the most expensive of the variations to take on if you're looking for clone accuracy


That's why I went late-Mod 0 with my build

Still not cheap, and the PRI upper still needed some work, but far closer out of the box, based on what I've been reading here.


LOL.  Late mod 0 isn't a lot less expensive.  The current production tubes aren't technically clone - they're sufficient, but it's not exact as the originals.  Comes down to how far you want to take it.  If you want a current production forearm and slap a swan sleeve on it, yes it will look the part.  But to those that have seen the unseeable, it is a curse

Mod 1 and mod H are by far the cheapest, though that FF RAS on the mod 1 had gone up in price, but it's still a cheaper build than a gen 1-3 by far.

If you buy a current production PRI upper, here's everything you'll need to swap:

1. The entire upper

ETA: I'm being facetious, but it's not that far from the truth.  A couple parts on a complete PRI upper will suffice, but you'll need to replace the majority of the parts depending on how far you want to take it.  This is a clone thread after all, so we're all struggling through it together.  We may even be able to share bankruptcy lawyers for a discount.
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 12:48:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: kmcale] [#45]
Yeah, current Gen 3 tubes are different vent holes as well, iirc. Beveled rail sections, "USA" or "PRI" marked too (dont remember which marking)
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 12:51:30 PM EDT
[#46]
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Originally Posted By teamjawbox:


LOL.  Late mod 0 isn't a lot less expensive.  The current production tubes aren't technically clone - they're sufficient, but it's not exact as the originals.  Comes down to how far you want to take it.  If you want a current production forearm and slap a swan sleeve on it, yes it will look the part.  But to those that have seen the unseeable, it is a curse

Mod 1 and mod H are by far the cheapest, though that FF RAS on the mod 1 had gone up in price, but it's still a cheaper build than a gen 1-3 by far.

If you buy a current production PRI upper, here's everything you'll need to swap:

1. The entire upper

ETA: I'm being facetious, but it's not that far from the truth.  A couple parts on a complete PRI upper will suffice, but you'll need to replace the majority of the parts depending on how far you want to take it.  This is a clone thread after all, so we're all struggling through it together.  We may even be able to share bankruptcy lawyers for a discount.
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Originally Posted By teamjawbox:
Originally Posted By towerofpower94:
Originally Posted By kmcale:


To add, locking collar and barrel nut are wildly different, vent holes in the tube are different size/different placement, the round head screws are in different spots and different size, and the extra smaller holes along the body of the handguard. -this is all assuming you're referring to the early Mod 0. The repro PEQ-2 has a slot milled into the sides that I find to be grossly unappealing compared to the originals.


Early Mod 0 I'd say is the most expensive of the variations to take on if you're looking for clone accuracy


That's why I went late-Mod 0 with my build

Still not cheap, and the PRI upper still needed some work, but far closer out of the box, based on what I've been reading here.


LOL.  Late mod 0 isn't a lot less expensive.  The current production tubes aren't technically clone - they're sufficient, but it's not exact as the originals.  Comes down to how far you want to take it.  If you want a current production forearm and slap a swan sleeve on it, yes it will look the part.  But to those that have seen the unseeable, it is a curse

Mod 1 and mod H are by far the cheapest, though that FF RAS on the mod 1 had gone up in price, but it's still a cheaper build than a gen 1-3 by far.

If you buy a current production PRI upper, here's everything you'll need to swap:

1. The entire upper

ETA: I'm being facetious, but it's not that far from the truth.  A couple parts on a complete PRI upper will suffice, but you'll need to replace the majority of the parts depending on how far you want to take it.  This is a clone thread after all, so we're all struggling through it together.  We may even be able to share bankruptcy lawyers for a discount.


Well, god dammit, haha. Thought at least the carbon fiber tube would be legit on it, haha.

Link Posted: 5/5/2022 12:54:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: kmcale] [#47]
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Originally Posted By towerofpower94:


Well, god dammit, haha. Thought at least the carbon fiber tube would be legit on it, haha.

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Bright side is.. not many people know that, or even care. Special few that take notice. I'll take a current Gen 3 tube over an A2 lower in play ANY day
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 1:24:48 PM EDT
[#48]
Well, I guess this as good of a place to ask as any. But if anyone has a spare #38 2-3 sleeve sitting around....get at me. Not sure why I can't post in the WTB in the EE but eh
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 1:27:14 PM EDT
[#49]
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Originally Posted By kmcale:

Bright side is.. not many people know that, or even care. Special few that take notice. I'll take a current Gen 3 tube over an A2 lower in play ANY day
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Originally Posted By kmcale:
Originally Posted By towerofpower94:


Well, god dammit, haha. Thought at least the carbon fiber tube would be legit on it, haha.


Bright side is.. not many people know that, or even care. Special few that take notice. I'll take a current Gen 3 tube over an A2 lower in play ANY day




I'm with you there.  They're very nice handguards and look the part.  Especially if you get rid of the beveled and branded pic rails.  You'd be at 99.995% correctness according to my calculations.
Link Posted: 5/5/2022 3:04:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: towerofpower94] [#50]
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Originally Posted By teamjawbox:




I'm with you there.  They're very nice handguards and look the part.  Especially if you get rid of the beveled and branded pic rails.  You'd be at 99.995% correctness according to my calculations.
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Originally Posted By teamjawbox:
Originally Posted By kmcale:
Originally Posted By towerofpower94:


Well, god dammit, haha. Thought at least the carbon fiber tube would be legit on it, haha.


Bright side is.. not many people know that, or even care. Special few that take notice. I'll take a current Gen 3 tube over an A2 lower in play ANY day




I'm with you there.  They're very nice handguards and look the part.  Especially if you get rid of the beveled and branded pic rails.  You'd be at 99.995% correctness according to my calculations.


Well that makes me feel better; since I had the rails done up by HavBlu83’s brother.

I can live with .005%
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