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Posted: 5/18/2010 4:55:51 AM EST
I’ve tried going over it and through it, but long range optics plus a fixed front site just isn’t working for me. Has anyone here ever removed one?
If so, what’s the best / safest way to do this without damaging the barrel?

The only tool I have on hand for the job would be a sawzall, but I can probably rent something better if you have a suggestion. Thanks.

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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 5:03:14 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/18/2010 5:04:43 AM EST by SmokeyJ]
Have you thought about shaving down the FSB?


ETA Pic is from ADCO's site, they offer the service for $30.00 or you can try your hand at it yourself.
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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 5:04:15 AM EST
there are 2 pins under the sight ,, you tube has some vids on how to do it i believe the remove from left side out with a punch

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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 5:06:09 AM EST
LINK

You can scroll about half way down the page. You will find a section on how to remove your
front sight and grind it into a low-profile gas block. I did this myself on the rifle below. It was
born as a Bushy M4A3 Patrolman carbine. I removed the front sight, cut and ground it down,
just as shown in the LINK above. Then replace the hand guards with a 12" Larue rail. I am very
happy with the results.

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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 5:07:12 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/18/2010 5:07:56 AM EST by hellbound]
what magnification is your optic? at 4x or better i can't even see the front sight
what does your AR look like? what is the configuration?

if you never ever want to have a front sight, you can take your sawzall (or preferably a dremel tool and bench grinder) and make your own low profile gas block and use your existing handguards, problem solved.

to remove the FSB, you would simply drive out the two pins (left to right)...

a more elegant solution would be to replace the stock FSB... you have a few options:
- a gas block with folding sight built in
- a railed gas block with brand x folding sight
- a low profile gas block covered with an extended free float rail with a folding front sight mounted on it (which not only alleviates your problem but increases your sight radius)*

*this is my preferred option
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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 5:08:44 AM EST
Once again, Hellbound speaks the truth. Option #3 is best.
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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 5:19:26 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/18/2010 5:26:12 AM EST by cml2501]
Originally Posted By hellbound:
what magnification is your optic? at 4x or better i can't even see the front sight
what does your AR look like? what is the configuration?


Here's a pic. I mainly use this as my long range bench / prone gun becasue its too heavy for anything else.


I like your idea, but I’m hesitant to start messing with the gas block because this barrel is non-standard and I'm only a little familiar with upper construction. It’s a Colt Competition HBAR. I would very much prefer NOT to destroy the front site. Another problem is that this is a "post-ban" upper with a welded on break.

As far as not seeing the front site, I’ve heard people say this before, and it’s semi-true. But the “ghost” of the front site is always there and seems to dull and blur my scope vision. It’s not immediately apparent but seems to cause me eye strain.

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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 5:22:58 AM EST
Originally Posted By cml2501:
Originally Posted By hellbound:
what magnification is your optic? at 4x or better i can't even see the front sight
what does your AR look like? what is the configuration?


Here's a pic.http://www.angryludwig.com/mediacenter/images/ar15a3_small.jpg

I like your idea, but I’m hesitant to start messing with the gas block because this barrel is non-standard. It’s a Colt Competition HBAR. I would very much prefer NOT to destroy the front site.

As far as not seeing the front site, I’ve heard people say this before, and it’s semi-true. But the “ghost” of the front site is always there and seems to dull and blur my scope vision. It’s not immediately apparent but seems to cause me eye strain.


well then, there are clamp-on style after market gas blocks you can use that will not require barrel modification if you're worried about keeping it stock... just remove your stock FSB by driving out the pins, and save it for a rainy day (or if you ever change your mind and what it back to normal)
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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 5:28:38 AM EST


well then, there are clamp-on style after market gas blocks you can use that will not require barrel modification if you're worried about keeping it stock... just remove your stock FSB by driving out the pins, and save it for a rainy day (or if you ever change your mind and what it back to normal)



Thanks, one other question though that may be a problem - The break is welded on (post-ban). I'm not going to be able to remove the old gas block with this break in place am I ?

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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 5:38:13 AM EST
Originally Posted By cml2501:


well then, there are clamp-on style after market gas blocks you can use that will not require barrel modification if you're worried about keeping it stock... just remove your stock FSB by driving out the pins, and save it for a rainy day (or if you ever change your mind and what it back to normal)



Thanks, one other question though that may be a problem - The break is welded on (post-ban). I'm not going to be able to remove the old gas block with this break in place am I ?


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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 5:46:28 AM EST
Damn.

So my only real option is to cut it down (to just the gas block) while its attached to the barrel.


Thats going to be a pain!

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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 6:03:14 AM EST
Originally Posted By cml2501:
Damn.

So my only real option is to cut it down (to just the gas block) while its attached to the barrel.


Thats going to be a pain!


If you are going to do anything to it. PLEASE send it off to ADCO so it can be done correctly and you don't ruin your Colt.

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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 6:19:29 AM EST


If you are going to do anything to it. PLEASE send it off to ADCO so it can be done correctly and you don't ruin your Colt.




Thanks for your concern - I think I may do that


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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 6:32:23 AM EST
fuck it buy a new barrel. fuckin post ban shit.

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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 7:01:56 AM EST
I'd never replace the FSB with a low profile GB because set screws do not hold as well as pins. I've done several FSB to low profile gas block conversions. All you really need is a dremel with cutoff wheel and sanding drums. The only part of the FSB that is operational as a GB is this:











I know you can't remove it from your barrel due to having a welded FH but it can still be done. Just make sure when you start to smell the metal cooking that you replace the wheel on the dremel. It makes life a whole lot easier. And you can still pull the gas tube from it before you start cutting on it. Just remove the roll pin, slide the gas tube out of the FSB and that should give you enough clearance to get it out of the upper receiver. I've done that a few times too. At that point mask off the first few inches of barrel on both sides of the FSB. In case your cutter slips. Go at it slowly and when you get it cut off add the sanding drums to make it look nicer. Hi-temp black paint from Lowes or Home D and reassemble your components. It takes me about 1 hour to do a complete FSB to low pro GB conversion. You'll also want to cut off the sling swivel if you're putting a rail system and usually the bayo-lug needs to be cut down as well.

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Link Posted: 5/18/2010 8:56:03 AM EST
Originally Posted By cml2501:


well then, there are clamp-on style after market gas blocks you can use that will not require barrel modification if you're worried about keeping it stock... just remove your stock FSB by driving out the pins, and save it for a rainy day (or if you ever change your mind and what it back to normal)



Thanks, one other question though that may be a problem - The break is welded on (post-ban). I'm not going to be able to remove the old gas block with this break in place am I ?


ARE YOU 100% SURE THE BRAKE IS WELDED?

your picture looks like the colt style brakes that are held on by two spring pins over a "smooth" threadless muzzle...

my colt MT6400C had that style brake... see those two holes on either side of the brake? one on top of the other?
those should be the spring pins... before you go sending it off to adco and wasting your money for a service you don't need

i'd try tapping out those spring pins and pulling the brake off yourself...
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