User Panel
Originally Posted By Blwxxzy:
Has anyone tried any off the shelf factory hunting loads? I asked a while back, but it was when they first came out. View Quote That's what I'm going to try next. I finally got a scope mounted so I'm going to order one or two boxes of ammo to try. I plan on using my pa10 for deer and elk this fall. |
|
|
|
|
|
I had the same problem (ie. not fully chambering from the magazine and round getting stuck so bad I had to hammer it to get the BCG to unlock). After sending it back to PSA twice, found out it was a tight chamber problem. They replaced the barrel and gas block, so it should be fixed (have yet to fire it at the range). Although I did get a letter back with the upper explaining this and that the upper had been test fired with a 20rd magazine through it and hand cycled with various commercial ammo. Hope this info helps you. I got mine (complete gun) during the "Black Friday" sale last year FWIW. Oh, by the way, this response was for snt505 on his problem specifically.
|
|
|
This may have been answered somewhere, but I've read this whole thread and can't find an answer. I have a PA-10 18" upper with the standard FSB, and would like to shave it down and install a free float handguard. My question is what handguards will work with the barrel nut that is on the upper already? I just want to be able to cut off the delta ring assy, shave the front sight and slip on a handguard. I did see that the barrel nut is a DPMS and low profile, but would like to know which handguards don't require replacing the barrel nut. Thanks for any help!
|
|
|
Originally Posted By EHTactical:
This may have been answered somewhere, but I've read this whole thread and can't find an answer. I have a PA-10 18" upper with the standard FSB, and would like to shave it down and install a free float handguard. My question is what handguards will work with the barrel nut that is on the upper already? I just want to be able to cut off the delta ring assy, shave the front sight and slip on a handguard. I did see that the barrel nut is a DPMS and low profile, but would like to know which handguards don't require replacing the barrel nut. Thanks for any help! View Quote Probably choose your rail then check with their customer service to see if it will work with a dpms Low Pro upper and barrel nut.....Midwest Industries has good CS, send them an email and they will get back to you. |
|
|
Originally Posted By JAG05:
Is anyone else's PA10 still ejecting shells at 1 o'clock? Did anyone find what's causing this? I've tried different spring and heavier buffer combos to no avail. My current setup is the standard "H" buffer with 25 coil spring, but can't get a straight answer from PSA when I call the stores or their main number if that or the 37 coil spring is the correct one. I'm not sure it would even fix the issue though. Called to have another spring sent to me, and I specified to make sure it was the one with more coils so I could do some troubleshooting, but they sent the exact same one I have. I have also tried taking out the rubber o ring around the extractor spring, but that didn't work. My casings aren't getting as torn up as much as they did the first 20-30 rounds, so that is good. I also have not had any malfunctions with it. Only other issue I can think of is its possibly way over gassed, but bcg doesn't show signs of over gassing, so I am at a loss. Anyone still having the same issues/have any insight? One guy mentioned he put an adjustable gas block on and it fixed his issue of kicking the shells out forward, but with the 18" barrel I don't want to limit the gas on it anymore than I have to for longer range shooting, if in fact it isn't over gassed. Am I overthinking it and it isn't a huge deal or am I right in thing kin something still isn't right and just a matter of time and rounds down range till something goes wrong internally? View Quote I don't think 1 o'clock is overgassed, I think overgassed would be slamming it into the shell deflector, denting the case, and throwing brass behind your right shoulder... I think if you are getting 1:00 with mild ammo then you are doing okay...anything between 1 and 5 without case damage is good... |
|
|
Originally Posted By urbanredneck:
Probably choose your rail then check with their customer service to see if it will work with a dpms Low Pro upper and barrel nut.....Midwest Industries has good CS, send them an email and they will get back to you. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By urbanredneck:
Originally Posted By EHTactical:
This may have been answered somewhere, but I've read this whole thread and can't find an answer. I have a PA-10 18" upper with the standard FSB, and would like to shave it down and install a free float handguard. My question is what handguards will work with the barrel nut that is on the upper already? I just want to be able to cut off the delta ring assy, shave the front sight and slip on a handguard. I did see that the barrel nut is a DPMS and low profile, but would like to know which handguards don't require replacing the barrel nut. Thanks for any help! Probably choose your rail then check with their customer service to see if it will work with a dpms Low Pro upper and barrel nut.....Midwest Industries has good CS, send them an email and they will get back to you. Thanks for the reply, was hoping someone had beat me to it and could tell me the rail they used! |
|
|
Originally Posted By EHTactical:
Thanks for the reply, was hoping someone had beat me to it and could tell me the rail they used! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By EHTactical:
Originally Posted By urbanredneck:
Originally Posted By EHTactical:
This may have been answered somewhere, but I've read this whole thread and can't find an answer. I have a PA-10 18" upper with the standard FSB, and would like to shave it down and install a free float handguard. My question is what handguards will work with the barrel nut that is on the upper already? I just want to be able to cut off the delta ring assy, shave the front sight and slip on a handguard. I did see that the barrel nut is a DPMS and low profile, but would like to know which handguards don't require replacing the barrel nut. Thanks for any help! Probably choose your rail then check with their customer service to see if it will work with a dpms Low Pro upper and barrel nut.....Midwest Industries has good CS, send them an email and they will get back to you. Thanks for the reply, was hoping someone had beat me to it and could tell me the rail they used! I would imagine that the product descriptions tell you whether or not they use the factory nut.. Might also check in here..http://www.ar15.com/forums/f_3/12_Rifles__Uppers__Lowers__Barrels__and_more.html |
|
|
Anyone drill and tap the bolt catch bosses to accept a DPMS bolt catch? How about pivot and takedown pins? Any source or fix for those besides giving PSA anymore of my $$. I had no clue these parts were proprietary and now I have a useless DPMS parts kit. Shame on me I guess. I asked if they would send them out of good faith, but I basically got told I should have known they were proprietary and I was an idiot. Ugh. PSA never again.
|
|
|
Originally Posted By FileForge:
Anyone drill and tap the bolt catch bosses to accept a DPMS bolt catch? How about pivot and takedown pins? Any source or fix for those besides giving PSA anymore of my $$. I had no clue these parts were proprietary and now I have a useless DPMS parts kit. Shame on me I guess. I asked if they would send them out of good faith, but I basically got told I should have known they were proprietary and I was an idiot. Ugh. PSA never again. View Quote What's really odd is you blaming PSA for something that has been posted dozens of times here and elsewhere on the Web. This has been posted so many times here that it's almost comical that you didn't see it. The fact is, PA10's are by no means the only AR10 platform with proprietary parts and the list grows every day. Yes, you should have known and it wouldn't have taken much effort to research it. Should you do what you suggest? I'd say no. Just buck up and buy the correct parts you need from PSA. In the end you'll be better off not trying to bubba your way out of it and ruin a perfectly good lower receiver in the process. I suspect that if you contact whoever you bought the DPMS kit from and explained the situation, they'd refund you. A friend of mine was an idiot and did the same as you did. He even opened the LPK he bought from Brownell's. He called, explained and they gladly took the kit back and refunded his money. If your seller won't then you need to buy stuff from someone else too. Lessons learned are knowledge gained. |
|
|
Originally Posted By JAG05:
Is anyone else's PA10 still ejecting shells at 1 o'clock? Did anyone find what's causing this? I've tried different spring and heavier buffer combos to no avail. My current setup is the standard "H" buffer with 25 coil spring, but can't get a straight answer from PSA when I call the stores or their main number if that or the 37 coil spring is the correct one. I'm not sure it would even fix the issue though. Called to have another spring sent to me, and I specified to make sure it was the one with more coils so I could do some troubleshooting, but they sent the exact same one I have. I have also tried taking out the rubber o ring around the extractor spring, but that didn't work. My casings aren't getting as torn up as much as they did the first 20-30 rounds, so that is good. I also have not had any malfunctions with it. Only other issue I can think of is its possibly way over gassed, but bcg doesn't show signs of over gassing, so I am at a loss. Anyone still having the same issues/have any insight? One guy mentioned he put an adjustable gas block on and it fixed his issue of kicking the shells out forward, but with the 18" barrel I don't want to limit the gas on it anymore than I have to for longer range shooting, if in fact it isn't over gassed. Am I overthinking it and it isn't a huge deal or am I right in thing kin something still isn't right and just a matter of time and rounds down range till something goes wrong internally? View Quote Why does that bother you? If it functions reliably, shoots accurately, doesn't tear up brass and isn't short stroking who cares where the brass goes. At least you know where to find it. Much in the direction the brass is ejected is dependent on the ammo your are running through it and the changes in bolt speed due to it. Also, every rifle is different and often what you are describing will change the more rounds you shoot in the rifle. My PA10 ejects around 2 and sometimes to 3...al least that's where I keep finding the brass. Would I care if it were 1 or even 4 or 5? No. It shoots 1.5 MOA all the time with cheap Federal white box M80 crap from PSA and MOA with my reloads (BTW, they both eject in a different angle) so why try and fix what apparently isn't broke. |
|
|
Originally Posted By Synyster06Gates:
Triggers... has anyone found something that works for sure with no modification? I'm between the LaRue MBT, Geissele G2S, and the RRA Varmint trigger. View Quote RRA requires a modification but it's small and easy to do. They are cheap and really decent triggers. All my AR's have RRA's in them. You can buy 2 1/2 of them for what you pay for most of the others. Unless you are a serious competitor with your rifle I see no reason to buy $250 triggers when a $100 trigger will do almost as well. |
|
|
Originally Posted By Blwxxzy:
Has anyone tried any off the shelf factory hunting loads? I asked a while back, but it was when they first came out. View Quote I would avoid the Hornady Super Performance stuff. It's very hot, nothing I've tried in it is very accurate and it uses a very slow powder. I would also avoid the real heavies. In commercial I would stick with loads with bullets 180gr or lower because commercial ammo is loaded to keep velocities as high as possible and the heavies, plus loads to keep velocity up, equal higher pressures and often result in swipes and other pressure signs on your brass. Just watch for pressure signs with the commercial you shoot. No pressure signs and good function and you'll be fine. 308 is generally very forgiving pressure wise and the PA10 has a 308 Winchester chamber not NATO. Shooting commercial ammo in a NATO chamber or reloading commercial brass for use in a NATO chamber is a different story altogether. NATO ammo in a SAMMI chamber is no problem as long as the chamber has the proper throat dimensions. |
|
|
I just picked up an odin works 308 hand guard for this build and was disappointed to find that the gas tube hole in the nut does not line up with the clover cut in the upper. Either the clover is cut too high or the hole too low, but I'm inclined to say that the clover is too high. Any recommendations on what to do, guys?
Can anyone measure from the top of the rail to the center of the clover with their mics please? |
|
|
Just FYI for people looking through this thread...so back in May I got my 18" PA10 kit...the bolt looked like this when I opened it.
damaged bolt Back to Palmetto, appears the same upper came back with some new parts. Bolt look good from the test firing. I've taken it out now myself and still looks good. Here are the results....looking good. target |
|
|
I was looking at threads on the buffer tube. It looks like there are two different spring buffer combos. I have the H marked buffer (3.25") and a spring that is 11" long. I'm seeing pictures with springs that are 13" long...
What is the correct combination for your collapsible stock? |
|
|
If I bought your upper and lower set, along with lpk, would a "dpms" match grade barrel from another manufacturer fit and work ok? I'm just concerned with all of the proprietary stuff on the PA10 would not work with another brand barrel. Thanks.
|
|
|
Yes, I use a Rainier barrel for mine... Had them assemble my pile of parts with their barrel
|
|
|
I just received my PA-10 lower this week and a Magpul Gen 3 P-Mag will not lock into the magazine catch. Is there a recommended magazine for these lowers or a known fix for this issue.
|
|
|
|
Would a PSA PA10 kit fit on a DPMS type lower, like this one? http://www.polymer80.com/Polymer80-308-80-Lower-Receiver-and-Jig-System_p_1780.html
|
|
|
Originally Posted By Crash1976:
I just received my PA-10 lower this week and a Magpul Gen 3 P-Mag will not lock into the magazine catch. Is there a recommended magazine for these lowers or a known fix for this issue. View Quote I use a Gen 3 also and have zero problems |
|
|
Well that's odd then isn't it. I suppose I'll need to check and make sure the mag catch is installed properly.
|
|
|
Originally Posted By Synyster06Gates:
Weird. Mine worked just fine View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Synyster06Gates:
Originally Posted By Crash1976:
I just received my PA-10 lower this week and a Magpul Gen 3 P-Mag will not lock into the magazine catch. Is there a recommended magazine for these lowers or a known fix for this issue. Weird. Mine worked just fine I have the same problem now.. And have adjusted on the catch several times. Any one come up with a fix for this yet?? |
|
|
Originally Posted By Jamiehstanley:
I have the same problem now.. And have adjusted on the catch several times. Any one come up with a fix for this yet?? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Jamiehstanley:
Originally Posted By Synyster06Gates:
Originally Posted By Crash1976:
I just received my PA-10 lower this week and a Magpul Gen 3 P-Mag will not lock into the magazine catch. Is there a recommended magazine for these lowers or a known fix for this issue. Weird. Mine worked just fine I have the same problem now.. And have adjusted on the catch several times. Any one come up with a fix for this yet?? Worked its self out it seems, The more I inserted mags the easier they seated, and actually worked its self out to normal. Quick picture after running some rounds [url=https://flic.kr/p/BkKHFb]IMG_20151121_121733382[1][/url] by jamiehstanley, on Flickr |
|
|
Will a RRA operator A2 stock kit work on the pa10 lower?
Magpul moe hand Gaurds? I have a stripped upper/lower looking to get the parts to finish it. |
|
|
Originally Posted By Crash1976:
I just received my PA-10 lower this week and a Magpul Gen 3 P-Mag will not lock into the magazine catch. Is there a recommended magazine for these lowers or a known fix for this issue. View Quote I'm glad it's not just me. UPS delivered the last of my lower parts today and I discovered that my 10 round PMAG 10 LR/SR Gen M3 won't lock into place. My lower's marked "PA-10 Multi" and the mag catch is from PSA's 'upgrade' set. Mr. Mitutoyo says the dimensions are correct (slot in the mag should match the catch) if the mag can be inserted all the way...but this mag is hanging on the back. It looks like I need almost .040. Large Images: http://imgur.com/RZZZPVq http://imgur.com/LaZ24zx http://imgur.com/a/Q4GoF http://imgur.com/NgX2NZL I prefer metal mags - anyone have a recommendation for a 'known good' steel or (preferably) aluminum 10 round mag? Andy edit...fixed it. Used a file and sharp knife to add a bit more bevel to the mag on both sides of the 'spine', and filed the lower spine to allow the mag to shift to the rear a few thousanths of an inch. Now the mag slides into place and latches easily, has just enough 'slop' to not bind, and the mag release doesn't need superhuman strength to press. http://i.imgur.com/HwyDTKp.jpg Sorry for the links...haven't figured out image embedding yet. /edit |
|
|
Is the pa10 forward assist any different from an ar15?
|
|
|
My PA-10 build seems to be working pretty good. I do have a question if anyone can answer it. I used an 18" Ballistic Advantage Barrel and a JP adjustable gas block. I have the block adjusted 5 full turns out which is pretty much wide open that is using ZQI ammo. Is that normal to have to run wide open for proper round stripping ? My Buffer tube is approx 8 1/4" long, the buffer spring is 11" with 27 coils, buffer is PSA labeled H buffer. Action does not always lock open on an empty MagPul magazine which tells me it is not moving to the rear quit far enough. What needs to be changed ?
|
|
|
Originally Posted By Rugerman21:
My PA-10 build seems to be working pretty good. I do have a question if anyone can answer it. I used an 18" Ballistic Advantage Barrel and a JP adjustable gas block. I have the block adjusted 5 full turns out which is pretty much wide open that is using ZQI ammo. Is that normal to have to run wide open for proper round stripping ? My Buffer tube is approx 8 1/4" long, the buffer spring is 11" with 27 coils, buffer is PSA labeled H buffer. Action does not always lock open on an empty MagPul magazine which tells me it is not moving to the rear quit far enough. What needs to be changed ? View Quote I finally shot my PA10 this afternoon, and also brought ZQI to the range with me. Thankfully I brought other ammo. ;) I'm using a 20 inch heavy barrel and a regular non-adjustable rifle length gas system. I could chamber the first round of ZQI from the tweaked 10 round Magpul mag, but the 2nd round would only strip part way and would jam the bolt. For me, ZQI was single-shot only. One of the four Aquila 7.62x51 150g FMJBT jammed but it fed perfectly the 2nd time as did the subsequent two rounds. Federal 7.62x51 149g XM80CL worked perfectly as did the only actual .308 I brought - Remington 150g CORE-LOKT. TL;DR - change ammo and try again. :) |
|
|
Originally Posted By WinterFun:
I'm glad it's not just me. UPS delivered the last of my lower parts today and I discovered that my 10 round PMAG 10 LR/SR Gen M3 won't lock into place. My lower's marked "PA-10 Multi" .... <snip> ...anyone have a recommendation for a 'known good' steel or (preferably) aluminum 10 round mag? Andy edit...fixed it. Used a file and sharp knife to add a bit more bevel to the mag on both sides of the 'spine', and filed the lower spine to allow the mag to shift to the rear a few thousanths of an inch. Now the mag slides into place and latches easily, has just enough 'slop' to not bind, and the mag release doesn't need superhuman strength to press. http://i.imgur.com/HwyDTKp.jpg /edit View Quote Just a follow-up now that I've finally gotten my PA10 to the range. The modified Magpul 10 round mag worked beautifully - gotta get a few more now. I couldn't find any good info on metal mags, so based on using their little brothers in my AR15 I ordered a pair of Brownell's SR25 aluminum mags.. Unfortunately they're a no-go. They fit perfectly and lock into place as expected, but the bolt won't strip bullets on the way forward - rounds stayed in the mag. I found an on-line comment that mentioned having to reshape one or both feed lips but didn't say how - and frankly after measuring and eyeballing things they look just like the Magpul shape/angles. I have no idea what's up there. I bought a 20 round Magpul and it suffers from the same 'rear ledge angle' challenge as the 10 round. Even after 30 heavy-handed attempted insertions it won't lock into place. The 'nicks' are plain to see, though, so it'll be easy to trim to fit. Magpul it is for the .308. |
|
|
Originally Posted By WinterFun:
Just a follow-up now that I've finally gotten my PA10 to the range. The modified Magpul 10 round mag worked beautifully - gotta get a few more now. I couldn't find any good info on metal mags, so based on using their little brothers in my AR15 I ordered a pair of Brownell's SR25 aluminum mags.. Unfortunately they're a no-go. They fit perfectly and lock into place as expected, but the bolt won't strip bullets on the way forward - rounds stayed in the mag. I found an on-line comment that mentioned having to reshape one or both feed lips but didn't say how - and frankly after measuring and eyeballing things they look just like the Magpul shape/angles. I have no idea what's up there. I bought a 20 round Magpul and it suffers from the same 'rear ledge angle' challenge as the 10 round. Even after 30 heavy-handed attempted insertions it won't lock into place. The 'nicks' are plain to see, though, so it'll be easy to trim to fit. Magpul it is for the .308. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By WinterFun:
Originally Posted By WinterFun:
I'm glad it's not just me. UPS delivered the last of my lower parts today and I discovered that my 10 round PMAG 10 LR/SR Gen M3 won't lock into place. My lower's marked "PA-10 Multi" .... <snip> ...anyone have a recommendation for a 'known good' steel or (preferably) aluminum 10 round mag? Andy edit...fixed it. Used a file and sharp knife to add a bit more bevel to the mag on both sides of the 'spine', and filed the lower spine to allow the mag to shift to the rear a few thousanths of an inch. Now the mag slides into place and latches easily, has just enough 'slop' to not bind, and the mag release doesn't need superhuman strength to press. http://i.imgur.com/HwyDTKp.jpg /edit Just a follow-up now that I've finally gotten my PA10 to the range. The modified Magpul 10 round mag worked beautifully - gotta get a few more now. I couldn't find any good info on metal mags, so based on using their little brothers in my AR15 I ordered a pair of Brownell's SR25 aluminum mags.. Unfortunately they're a no-go. They fit perfectly and lock into place as expected, but the bolt won't strip bullets on the way forward - rounds stayed in the mag. I found an on-line comment that mentioned having to reshape one or both feed lips but didn't say how - and frankly after measuring and eyeballing things they look just like the Magpul shape/angles. I have no idea what's up there. I bought a 20 round Magpul and it suffers from the same 'rear ledge angle' challenge as the 10 round. Even after 30 heavy-handed attempted insertions it won't lock into place. The 'nicks' are plain to see, though, so it'll be easy to trim to fit. Magpul it is for the .308. I've had good luck with ASC mags from 44mag.com. 20 rounders and 5 rounders for hunting.. I think they make 25 rounders too. FYI |
|
|
So what is new with the gen 2 lowers?
|
|
|
Thank you for the inquiry. The Gen2 has some cosmetic changes. It will be compatible with the Gen1 kits.
|
|
Palmetto State Armory
200 Business Park Blvd Columbia, SC 29203 Web Sales: 1-803-724-6950 [email protected] |
“The further a society drifts from truth, the more it will hate those who speak it.” - George Orwell
|
Gen 2 will be available shortly.
|
|
Palmetto State Armory
200 Business Park Blvd Columbia, SC 29203 Web Sales: 1-803-724-6950 [email protected] |
"Stand your ground. Don't Fire unless Fired upon. But if they mean to have a war, Let it begin here." - Capt. John Parker
|
Originally Posted By GamecockOperator:
Photos? :) Please. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By GamecockOperator:
Originally Posted By PalmettoStateArmory:
Gen 2 will be available shortly. Photos? :) Please. Geez, with your sources, I thought you would have your own photos by now... |
|
Palmetto State Armory
200 Business Park Blvd Columbia, SC 29203 Web Sales: 1-803-724-6950 [email protected] |
Finally got all of the pieces to build one, upper in May, lower in the fall and the parts kit just came. Put it all together tonight and for the life of me, I can't figure out why I have a pin left over. Silver pin, .648 inches long. I bought the ACT Lower parts kit, I looked at the picture closely and can't see this pin in the picture. It is not long enough to be a trigger pin (2 came in the ACT kit installed in the trigger assembly). Any idea's. Not a detent pin, not the pin the holds the bolt catch.
Thanks all, looks sharp! |
|
|
Finally got all of the pieces to build one, upper in May, lower in the fall and the parts kit just came. Put it all together tonight and for the life of me, I can't figure out why I have a pin left over. Silver pin, .648 inches long. I bought the ACT Lower parts kit, I looked at the picture closely and can't see this pin in the picture. It is not long enough to be a trigger pin (2 came in the ACT kit installed in the trigger assembly). Any idea's. Not a detent pin, not the pin the holds the bolt catch.
Thanks all, looks sharp! |
|
|
It's a trigger slave pin ALG supplies to help with trigger installation
|
|
|
Originally Posted By PalmettoStateArmory:
Geez, with your sources, I thought you would have your own photos by now... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By PalmettoStateArmory:
Originally Posted By GamecockOperator:
Originally Posted By PalmettoStateArmory:
Gen 2 will be available shortly. Photos? :) Please. Geez, with your sources, I thought you would have your own photos by now... i cannot confirm nor deny. I was hoping however, that you would post them so i dont have to be the "bad guy" to the big boss man. :) |
|
"Stand your ground. Don't Fire unless Fired upon. But if they mean to have a war, Let it begin here." - Capt. John Parker
|
does anyone know if the Midwest industries ssk15 is compatible with a 16" PA10 midlength upper? I would really like to put a rail on it but don't know whats compatible. Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
Originally Posted By andhar1128:
does anyone know if the Midwest industries ssk15 is compatible with a 16" PA10 midlength upper? I would really like to put a rail on it but don't know whats compatible. Thanks in advance. View Quote You need the DPMS 308, low profile rail. MI-308SS15-DLK is the 15" keymod versions. [url]https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=1230[/urk] |
|
|
Experts weight in please!
I finally got my 16" PA10 out to the range this weekend. I could only get 1 round of Hornady Superformance to fire out of 2 rounds from each box of factory fresh Wolf (steel cased), Federal Fusion and Hornady ammo. All the primers have centered dimple strikes that seem deep enough to ignite. The same ammo all worked perfectly in my friend's bolt rifle so I'm pretty confident that it's not bad ammo. Keep in mind that this rifle was a complete PSA build and has already been back to have the chamber reamed as it was too narrow to put any .308 round into battery when I first received it. Could the headspacing/throat be the issue or is the BCG/firing pin the source of my troubles? |
|
|
Thank you for your inquiry.
If the primer is getting dimpled, so it sounds like the rifle is functioning (other than firing). As this was with multiple ammo brands, Field strip and clean the firing pin and bolt cavity in the carrier to make sure there isn't any debris which can keep the firing pin from coming fully forward. It would not take much. We have always recommended using domestic brass cased ammo for break in. This is only to take any variables out of the seat-in process. The 308 can be stiff when first assembled, but is test fired with domestic 308 ammo. Once seated, ammo should not matter other than the usual issues with expansion and contraction rates of steel versus brass case,s and the possible impact on extraction. The chamber reaming you would have had done would have been in the area of the lede, well forward of the shoulder, to compensate for the differences in allowable bullet shapes. There should not have have been any impact on headspace. Please give us a call if you continue to have issues, we will be happy to get it sorted out for you. |
|
Palmetto State Armory
200 Business Park Blvd Columbia, SC 29203 Web Sales: 1-803-724-6950 [email protected] |
Help!
I'm trying to get my PA-10 to run correctly with 7.62x51 NATO and it doesn't want to play nice. edit...ammo used is 2014/2015 ZQI, Aguila, and Federal XM80CL. Multiple trips to the range, fully torn down and cleaned after each shooting session. Symptoms: Most of the time it won't strip and load a 2nd round (>90%). About 1/4 of the time it won't extract and eject a spent round. Sometimes (1/2 of the time?) it'll partially strip a round and jam. When loaded with my light hand-loads (150grain FMJ, 40 grains AR-COMP or RL15, CCI large rifle primer, once fired NATO military brass) it cycles, ejects, and feeds normally. It also runs normally with commercial .308. The gun - all PSA PA-10 parts except where noted PSA upper and lower; PSA BCG, enhanced polished FCG. 20" Anderson barrel with rifle length gas system. YMH Fixed gas block. (I pulled and reinstalled the block - it's aligned correctly and free-flowing.) PSA A2 stock DPMS AR-15 buffer tube Armalite .308 buffer (5.3 ounce; 5 1/4" long) Armalite buffer spring (32 1/2 turns; 3 3/8" long) Pmag 10 round magazines Before shooting today, I swapped the Armalite buffer spring for a DPMS .308 spring - was worse than when shooting with the Armalite spring. DMPS rifle length spring: 36 turns, 12 5/8" long (Primary Arms DP308-BS-10B DPMS .308 RIfle Buffer Spring - 12.75 Inch) In what sounds to be the norm, the ejector is VERY stiff, as is the extractor. Headspace is good, fired brass slides out with pressure from a fingernail, the bolt appears to mate with the barrel extension as it should. The gun has fired 80 rounds so far...mostly as single shots. ;) I emailed PSA to ask for info on the spring they ship with their A2 stock kit but haven't received a response. Thoughts, comments, suggestions? Thanks in advance! Andy |
|
|
S.A.M.M. (Shooter, Ammo, Maintenance, Mechanical)
Check off/eliminate problems in this order. (Free) 1. Anything your doing different from another shooter with the same gun? (sounds silly, but have someone else shoot it to see if problems repeat) 2. Ammo out of spec, old surplus 7.62, DAG ammo, etc? 3. Clean gun, no debri from carbon, dirt, or material from manufacturing in the chamber or bolt/carrier (disassemble and clean to rule out) 4. Triple check your build for issues with barrel, gas tube and alignment, any signs of odd wear marks starting on buffer/tube/spring? Hammer spring installed correctly for light strikes? Still issues, then spend money and Install an adjustable gas block. |
|
|
Originally Posted By Bullfrog24:
S.A.M.M. (Shooter, Ammo, Maintenance, Mechanical) Check off/eliminate problems in this order. (Free) 1. Anything your doing different from another shooter with the same gun? (sounds silly, but have someone else shoot it to see if problems repeat) <snipped> 4. Triple check your build for issues with barrel, gas tube and alignment, any signs of odd wear marks starting on buffer/tube/spring? Hammer spring installed correctly for light strikes? Still issues, then spend money and Install an adjustable gas block. View Quote Thanks Bullfrog. I had an experienced armorer/smith look at the gun yesterday - he confirmed that all looks normal - gas key/tube alignment, open gas system, normal bolt and carrier wear patterns, etc. The gun runs beautifully with my light hand loads, and is consistent regardless of who pulls the trigger. Running your list, I realized two things. First, the earlier range sessions had temps that ran from the low 60s to low 50s, but yesterday's range time was in the mid 80s (winter this ain't...). I shot Aguila and ZQI 7.62 - both current 2015 production - but had deeper primer imprints on all compared with earlier shooting, and 5 of 16 primers had slight ridges around the imprint (just enough to catch a nail on). It appears my 'belief' that 7.62 was loaded lighter than .308 is false, and that the rifle length gas system didn't mellow things as much as I thought it might. The recoil was huge yesterday - I thought the scope was bad because rounds were all over the place. Here are a couple of shots of the primers. The Aguila rounds were consistently hot while only three of 14 ZQI showed slight pressure signs. http://imgur.com/a/xO6RH Thanks for the info - I'll shop for an adjustable block. Andy |
|
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.