Posted: 8/28/2014 10:31:16 PM EDT
[#3]
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I will disagree with you there, Chief. When I got my Stealth Upper, I tried it out on my M&P15's lower. When I managed to scrape up enough milk money to get an LT lower, I installed a Mil-Spec trigger in the LT lower to begin with. Same basic springs, pins, hammer as in the M&P. Later on, little upgrade here and there...
From the start, the Stealth upper wobbled in the M&P lower. Not crazy, minute-of-zip-code wobble, but noticeably more so than in the LT lower, which basically took a mallet to get the upper/lower seated or separated, it was that tight. This was after I'd been regularly switching between the M&P and Stealth upper over the course of a couple or more months. Ever since I got the LT lower, the only times the M&P/M&P and Stealth/LT come apart is for cleaning. The Stealth/LT WAS my tack driver. It's now the backup tack driver to my tOBR.
EDIT: Failed to mention that while I can easily hit minute-of-bad-guy with the M&P, the combination of the Stealth and LT lower are definitely more of a tack driver than the M&P will likely ever be. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quote History Quoted:
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I have a question that I am sure to get a straight answer here. Say take two quality lowers from two different mfgrs. Use one stealth upper. Shoot both lowers with the same upper. Would you expect one to be more accurate. I know the upper is the biggest factor in accuracy.
Let me put it this way, has anyone used their stealth upper on two different lowers and got a huge difference or none worth worrying over.
I would expect or at least assume a LT lower would perform best with a stealth upper than say a, take your pick, RR,CMMG, DD, Bush M, Nov, etc,etc. Or would it.
Or is just that LT Stealth Uppers make all run of the mill (spec) lowers look good..
If the triggers are the same in each lower they would all perform the same.
Accuracy is in the upper and the trigger pull. The rest is just functional.
That being said, LT uppers don't look good on anything but LT lowers
I will disagree with you there, Chief. When I got my Stealth Upper, I tried it out on my M&P15's lower. When I managed to scrape up enough milk money to get an LT lower, I installed a Mil-Spec trigger in the LT lower to begin with. Same basic springs, pins, hammer as in the M&P. Later on, little upgrade here and there...
From the start, the Stealth upper wobbled in the M&P lower. Not crazy, minute-of-zip-code wobble, but noticeably more so than in the LT lower, which basically took a mallet to get the upper/lower seated or separated, it was that tight. This was after I'd been regularly switching between the M&P and Stealth upper over the course of a couple or more months. Ever since I got the LT lower, the only times the M&P/M&P and Stealth/LT come apart is for cleaning. The Stealth/LT WAS my tack driver. It's now the backup tack driver to my tOBR.
EDIT: Failed to mention that while I can easily hit minute-of-bad-guy with the M&P, the combination of the Stealth and LT lower are definitely more of a tack driver than the M&P will likely ever be.
AH64Pilot is correct, why? well...because he is an Attack Pilot! The lower isn't going to make any difference! The difference is as AH64Pilot pointed out is the fire control group, and as you also pointed out the wobble. The wobble was the factor in your case (did you upgrade your fire control group?), which can easily be rectified with one of those dandy little wedges placed in the rear of the receiver. Some lower manufacturers have a tension screw that helps to tighten up the lower to the upper, I think Sun Devil was the first to do this. I have one Sun Devil forged that I got about four years ago and built a 20" A2 for Service Rifle Comps. I have another SunDevil but it is a billet one and it also has the tension screw. I believe I have seen other manufacturers that have the tension screw.
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