From speaking with customers, it seems BCM FSB taper pins are harder to remove than some others. When we do it here, we can knock the pins free in under 60 seconds.
Here are some basic pointers on the way we remove them.

1) It takes Two. You will need a buddy to hold the upper group stable as you pound out the pins. You will not be able to get a good concentrated force on the pins if the upper is wobbling around (even a little bit).

2) Action Jackson. You will need a couple of action blocks (see Brownells for a good selection). These will be great platforms to stabilize the barrel. Also get the Brownells FSB block. You may have to mod the shape of the FSB block if using a free float.

3) Installed from starboard side. Milspec FSB are drill and the reamed for taper pins. The reamer runs from the right to the left (pointing the muzzle at the bad guy). So BCM pins need to be removed from left to right. Cannot be done the opposite way.

4) Secure that carbine. Using action blocks and the buddy system secure the upper group so the left side is facing up.

5) Get a fat one. We do not use those small radius head punches to break the pins free. We use a much fatter punch (5/16”). It’s a meaty sucker. Lots to hang on to, and enables you to put some force on the hammer. Using a 5/16” punch and a 12oz hammer, give her a smack. Anywhere between 1 and 6 smacks, and the pin moves. All you want to do is to get it to move to about flush.

6) Grab a skinny one. Now get the tiny little 1/8” punch to push the pins out of the FSB. They are already broken free, this just drives the fully out. Tap, tap, tap.

7) Celebrate. You are done. Do the banana dance.


Hope this info helps...
Thanks!
Paul

I had to figure this out on my own. I had a bear of a time getting those pins out. Next time I order an upper Ill be all set.

I have found that the best surface to support the FSB is my vice...here is how it works-

You aren't pinching the FSB, just using the jaws in place of a block to support the FSB. Open it so that the Bayonet lug and sling mount are resting solidly on the bottom and the upper portionof the FSB is on the other jaw. Pins are in the open. While a buddy holds it solidly, whack it...done.

Note- You want to cover the tops of the jaws with some tape or you will get marks on your FSB. Nothing a little cold blue won't fix though...

nvmd

What happens if they're so tight all you do is flatten the pin so it's now wider than the hole? Then you're in real trouble. What you need is a good nail punch with the cupped tip so it won't flatten the pins.

LOL, I get pissed just thinking about messing with it. They ARE too tight. They're more like seized up. Are these more "hard core" than regular tight pins? The tighter your pins are the more high speed you are?

You won't flatten the pins. They are uber hard...much harder than the FSB.

Paul is right in his steps to removing them. Once I did it his way, I had pins out in short order. It really isn' t that hard once you figure out how. You just have to get them moving and then they slide out. The BFH, Solid Surface, partner to hold the upper steady, and big faced pin are the keys.

It just isn't something you can improvise. You can't kitchen table gunshith those pins...you have to do it right.

They are too tight though. You can work them...but they shouldn't be that tight.

I had the same problem with my middy. flattened a few punches and did the whole deal on a concrete floor with help. Moved up to a small sledge and still no go. I worked for years slinging a sledge on tracks and heavy machinery, so I knew when to give. I emailed Bravo and they replied in a few HOURS and had me send it off to them. They cleaned up all my goobers to the point I thought they sent me a new upper and packaged everything up and sent me another hat. I was happy with their work and it turned out fine. I can't get the taper pins as far in as they originally were, but they are still tighter than any other AR I've worked on.

I flattened one of those on my bcm

Negative, I contacted BCM and asked that question about leaving the pins out. Was told no, they can't do that.

Update. Upper arrived today. Not only were the taper pins removed, the front site base, pins and flash hider were all packaged seporately. And I even like my free hat.


Thank you BCM for your attention to detail. Many orders to follow.

Agree - I have a brownells, and it sucks. I still was able to get the pins out of my BCM uppers (by myself), but god it was painful.

Working on mine as we speak. Can't seem to get it to bulge. It's in the freezer right now and then I'll try again.

So if the pins are peening my punches and heating did squat, I should just give up right?

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