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niceguymr
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:18:11 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/18/2009 12:52:11 PM EST by niceguymr]
My microwave door handle snapped off. My only two choices are to replace it with a new one ($70 part through GE) or to simply glue it back on where it normally would have been screwed on. Since the microwave is about 12 years old and will probably be replaced within the year or so when we upgrade our kitchen, I'm going to go with glueing it.

I already tried the Loctite brand Super Glue Gel which didn't work well. It pretty much gave after the first pull of the handle (after letting it set/dry/cure/whatever for a few hours).

So before I lay out any more money, I figured I'd check with the hive for some recommendations. I'd like it to be something that I can easily get at a Walgreens/CVS/etc or order through Amazon. Keep in mind that this is for glueing PLASTIC TO PLASTIC. The surfaces are smooth and not porous. Also, the contact surfaces are not so large. I need something that's going to hold STRONG.

Thanks in advance!
cyclone
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:20:10 AM EST
Gorilla Glue
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VacaDuck
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:21:27 AM EST
This happened to me about two years ago. I just used Gorilla Glue to put it back on. Still holding strong.

Clean the surfaces.
Wipe with damp towel.
Apply small amount of gorilla glue.
Duct tape handle in place. Apply twice as much tape as you think it needs. Gorilla glue expands as it dries.
Remove tape after 24 hours
Trim off any glue that is visible
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SUPERSPORT
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:21:35 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/17/2009 9:23:38 AM EST by SUPERSPORT]
Go to a hobby store and buy CA glue. Any brand. Get the thin but be very careful because it flows fast and sets fast.

ETA: After you open it keep it in the fridge. I fly RC planes so I use it a lot.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:22:13 AM EST
Keep in mind that some types of plastic just don't work well with cyanoacrylate (sp?) glues, like the "super glues". I usually just stick with the old standard, though...Krazy Glue. The stuff in the green tube and red cap. The regular liquids normally work better than the gel-types that you tried.
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NotSoSharpShooter
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:23:49 AM EST
JB Weld that shit.
Tekpc007
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:25:40 AM EST
5 minute epoxy
FMJshooter
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:25:51 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/17/2009 9:27:15 AM EST by FMJshooter]
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Chairborne
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:27:12 AM EST
Any two part epoxy will work better than cyanoacrylate (super glue). You have to prep the surface properly though, that means slight sanding/scuffing and degrease the heck out of it.
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fundummy
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:27:51 AM EST
Originally Posted By NotSoSharpShooter:
JB Weld that shit.


+1

Either that or think about an aluminum side brace with rivets.
MACD
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:30:44 AM EST
Don't be a pussy. Just take the door off and jam something in the safety so it'll still work.
Chairborne
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:33:41 AM EST
Originally Posted By MACD:
Don't be a pussy. Just take the door off and jam something in the safety so it'll still work.


Don't forget to wear your tinfoil hat while nuking your dinner though.
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dcs12345
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:52:55 AM EST
Originally Posted By NotSoSharpShooter:
JB Weld that shit.


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Zack3g
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Posted: 9/17/2009 9:56:00 AM EST
Originally Posted By Chairborne:
Any two part epoxy will work better than cyanoacrylate (super glue). You have to prep the surface properly though, that means slight sanding/scuffing and degrease the heck out of it.


I agree.


and even if you are going to use some sort of superglue, a little roughening with some sandpaper would definitely help.
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doggscube
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Posted: 9/17/2009 10:07:30 AM EST
CA's not best for a plastic joint. Plastic glue for model kits might work, but it sounds like epoxy or JB Weld should take care of this problem.
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klutz347
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Posted: 9/17/2009 10:08:31 AM EST

Originally Posted By NotSoSharpShooter:
JB Weld that shit.


This
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California_Kid
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Posted: 9/17/2009 10:08:47 AM EST
Originally Posted By cyclone:
Gorilla Glue


/THREAD
KELBEAST
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Posted: 9/17/2009 10:09:14 AM EST
Originally Posted By SUPERSPORT:
Go to a hobby store and buy CA glue. Any brand. Get the thin but be very careful because it flows fast and sets fast.

ETA: After you open it keep it in the fridge. I fly RC planes so I use it a lot.


This
ChairborneRanger
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Posted: 9/17/2009 10:17:19 AM EST
Exact same thing happened to my GE microwave about a year ago. I JB Welded it––––clamped the handle to the door until it all dried––––has worked fine ever since.
niceguymr
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:11:55 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/17/2009 12:13:59 PM EST by niceguymr]
I've used Gorilla Glue with mixed results and I'm not too crazy about the way (and how much) it expands. I'm willing to give it another try... maybe. Is it recommended that I just use the 'original' Gorilla Glue formula or should I go with the epoxy (2 part system) for my purposes?

I've never used J B Weld before and about the only place I've ever heard of it is here - so if it's good enough for ARFCOM, then it just might be good enough for me.

So right now it's between those 2.

ETA:
Do they sell JBW at Home Depot?
VacaDuck
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:35:44 PM EST

Originally Posted By niceguymr:
I've used Gorilla Glue with mixed results and I'm not too crazy about the way (and how much) it expands. I'm willing to give it another try... maybe. Is it recommended that I just use the 'original' Gorilla Glue formula or should I go with the epoxy (2 part system) for my purposes?

I've never used J B Weld before and about the only place I've ever heard of it is here - so if it's good enough for ARFCOM, then it just might be good enough for me.

So right now it's between those 2.

ETA:
Do they sell JBW at Home Depot?

Use the original formula gorilla glue. The handle on my microwave has held tight now for two years.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:39:45 PM EST
You guys are slipping, Try this
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scottfire1957
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:46:28 PM EST
Just go ahead and get the new microwave. It'll be lot less aggravation than trying to fix the door handle.
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sporter
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:47:28 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/17/2009 12:48:01 PM EST by sporter]
Amateurs..

DEVCON Epoxy (WM carries it).
BallisticTip
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:52:10 PM EST
I fixed mine with JB weld over 2 years ago.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:55:33 PM EST
3M 5200.

It bonds EVERYTHING.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:56:23 PM EST
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Posted: 9/17/2009 12:57:33 PM EST
cyanocrylate adhesive

rhino glue
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Chairborne
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Posted: 9/17/2009 1:01:05 PM EST
Originally Posted By cointelpro:
cyanocrylate adhesive

rhino glue


CA is shit for many applications. I really trust a product when a million dollar company can't get basic spelling and grammar right.




We offer our Rhino Tough One FormulaTM solution that will bond the same or disimuler surfaces like plastics, vinyls, pourus woods, rubber, ceramics, metals, glass, leather, jewlery, fabrics and more. This fantastic bonding agent also has excellent shear strength and is ideal for indoor or outdoor usage. Rhino Glue is used for assembly, manufacturing and production applications. We have customers using their Rhino Glue for two years and more. Our easy dispensing removable Glue Nozzle Tools are designed to direct the perfect amount of adhesive everytime.


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Posted: 9/17/2009 2:04:03 PM EST
My favorite super glue is the ZAP glues, ZAP CA and ZAP-A-GAP CA+ are my picks for super glue, but this doesn't look like something I'd use it for. I use those when bonding plastic to metal, or working with ceramics (ZAP CA is the king of putting together broken ceramic cups and other things like that), but I don't use CA for plastic to plastic, that should be done with PLASTIC CEMENT. Pick some up at your local hobby store.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 2:06:52 PM EST


mighy putty

duh!




Dumpster_Baby
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Posted: 9/17/2009 2:14:59 PM EST
Originally Posted By NotSoSharpShooter:
JB Weld that shit.


A lot of what I own is held together with JB Weld, or constructed of it entirely.

The problem of plate tectonics, earthquakes, and volcanoes could be solved if you could just get enough JB Weld into the right places.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 2:17:37 PM EST
2P-10 FTMFW.
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Posted: 9/17/2009 2:19:22 PM EST
Originally Posted By NineLivez:
You guys are slipping, Try this


My first thought as well...good call 9-lives.
niceguymr
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Posted: 9/18/2009 12:50:57 PM EST
UPDATE:

Went with the JB Weld and some clamps I purchased from Harbor Freight. I'll be sure to post an AAR tomorrow. For now, here are some pics for your viewing pleasure.

Before Pics



Harbor Freight purchases (Clamps were only .99 each)


I'm going to TRY to leave this alone overnight.

thorshammerblow
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Posted: 9/18/2009 2:34:34 PM EST
Originally Posted By cyclone:
Gorilla Glue


+1 One of the door shelves of my fridge broke off and I glued it back on with gorilla glue and it held for about 8 months.
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Posted: 9/18/2009 3:27:10 PM EST
Should have bought yourself an ultrasonic welder. Glue is for pussies.
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Posted: 9/18/2009 3:33:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/18/2009 3:34:35 PM EST by California_Kid]
Good job! Any repair that holds for a decent amount of time beats the living crap out of buying a new microwave or trying to find factory replacement parts.

Now take the tags off of those clamps.

You wouldn't use a pair of 99-cent clamps once and return them to Harbor Freight, would you?

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Posted: 9/18/2009 3:49:31 PM EST
OK that one is solved! Let's talk about a waterproof epoxy! Needs to be thin because it going in a tight place. JB would be perfect but it's too thick.
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niceguymr
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Posted: 9/18/2009 6:35:46 PM EST
I really couldn't wait until tomorrow to remove the clamps and try it out. Only thing is that I don't have the guts to really tug hard on the handle just to see HOW strong it really is. Nonetheless, I will go on the assumption that it's as good as new until/unless it snaps off again, which hopefully doesn't happen. I mean, it really shouldn't break again, right? Let's hope not.

Overally, this has been a net positive experience.

#1 - I learned how to fix something new
#2 - It made me walk into a Harbor Freight for the first time ever which resulted in the purchase of some new stuff
#3 - I saved myself from spending $70 on a stupid part from GE, or even worse, having to buy a new microwave.