Scanning snow-capped Spin Ghar with binoculars revealed a wide range of ravines, crevasses, valleys and dry river beds, so many potential exfiltration routes for bin Laden's Arab fighters. Dressed in khameez shalwar and pie-shaped hats, the UPI party did not attract attention as it moved in local buses through border towns and villages. Bin Laden's picture, inscribed "Father of the Revolution," covered half the rear window of one bus that passed through army and frontier constabulary checkpoints without so much as an ID check of the passengers.
Scores of pickup trucks loaded to the gunwales with civilians similarly drove through unchallenged. Rubber-wheeled donkey carts with three or four passengers also were part of the traffic pattern. UPI was stopped once and when the U.S. passport was produced, the civilian security official made clear Americans were "not welcome." When asked whether that went for Taliban, too, he answered, "Taliban always welcome."
From Kohat, army headquarters for some of the tribal areas, to Parachinar, on the western edge of the frontier under surveillance, rock formations along the road had been daubed with slogans glorifying terrorist organizations and vilifying President Pervez Musharraf as an "American agent." Towns like Dera Adam Khel, Hangu, Doaba and Thall, headquarters for one of the army brigades deployed along the frontier, are identical to towns across the border in Afghanistan. The men look the same because they are the same. The few women spotted --- fewer than six in Thall, a town of 250,000 --- wore head-to-foot burkas. The men were doing the sopping for the four-day Eid holiday that starts Sunday and marks the end of Ramadan.
Bin Laden's poster picture was pinned to shutters and windows. Open air markets also displayed it on the side of stalls. Sipah-e-Sahaba, or Army of the Friends of the Prophet, and Shaish-e-Mohammed, are among the most extreme religious organizations in Pakistan. They are particularly strong in the tribal belt and in Punjab, the country's largest province. One rockface advertisement said, "For Commando Training, Contact Shaish-e-Mohammed." Another one proclaimed, "Shaish-e-Mohammed and Al Qaida are Bubbling Blood Brothers."
"Kill America" was painted on the outer wall of the "Handyside" army fort (named after a prominent colonial during the British Raj) before the narrow road twists and turns alongside an ochre-colored, shrub-pocked limestone mountain one side and a 3,000-foot precipice on the other. Five-ton 10-wheelers manage to squeeze by in both directions, many adorned with bin Laden's face.
- continued -