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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:08:39 AM EST
For the hive mind, i've got a '99 Chevy S10 Blazer (4 door) and I apparently need to replace the fuel pump.

Checked fuel pressure, it was way low, replaced fuel filter, didn't help preassure, and all research tells me that the fuel pumps are one of the weaknesses in S10 blazers.

So, has anybody here done this procedure who could offer some tips on the finer points of this job? I already have the basics figured out (drop the gas tank, disconnect all the lines, remove the old pump, install new pump, reconnet the lines, reinstall gas tank).

Is there something I should know about regarding specific ways to drop the tank, removal or reinstallation of the pumps?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:12:02 AM EST
I had to do it on my '89 S-10 pickup. It really sucks depending on alot of things. If there's alot od corrosion (like if they spread lots of salt on the road during winter) it's going to be a real bitch and expect you may have to repair or replace rusted lines.

Either way, don't smoke when you're doing it.

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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:12:03 AM EST
the straps that hold the gas tank will probably be in pretty piss poor shape. you may want to have new ones on hand before starting, if you have no other transportation to the auto parts store. i'm speaking from experiance.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:15:01 AM EST
Disconnect the battery first. Sparks, gas, etc.

It's not really hard, just kind of a hassle.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:19:44 AM EST
I've never done this on an S-10, but I have done it on plenty of other things, this is just some generic advice to make it go a bit easier for you.

First, empty the tank.

Second, use a high pressure sprayer to clean the tank and undercarriage of the area you will be working. This will keep rust, dirt, whatever from falling in your eyes.

Third, there is a seal on top of the tank where the fuel pump is, get a new one. Even if yours is good its cheap insurance.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:27:35 AM EST
Have done it on other cars...it isn't easy if there is a bit of fuel in the tank. Siphoning is ineffective. But since you are replacing the pump, disconnect the fuel line and use the pumps last life to drain it. It won't overheat as there is no circulation, all the fuel leaves the tank and passes through the pump/motor, cooling the motor.

Yes, CLEAN THE UNDERSIDE WELL. And wear goggles, it is dirty.

Replace the pump, fuel sock, hoses and clamps. Replace the gasket too.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:33:43 AM EST
Thanks all for the advice!

For clarification, the pump is one of the larger, semi enclosed systems that is super expensive. Most pump replacements run around $80, the pump for a 99 blazer is around $300...

It comes with all sorts of gaskets, seals, socks, etc., so that should make it easier to deal with.

And I REALLY like the great idea of using the last life of the pump to empty the tank before I start. That and the reminder to clean the underside of the truck before I start are most appreciated!

I'll take even more advice if people have it!

THANKS!!!!
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:38:25 AM EST
make sure the monkey at the parts store gives you the right pump.. I had a "W" vin and had to drop the tank and replace it 3 times before I realized the dumbass had given me a "Z" pump.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:39:20 AM EST
It is pretty easy. If it is a 2 door the tank is in the rear, 4 door the tank is on the left frame side. The left side is a little harder due to the strap type. The fuel line fittings will be quick disconnect so you will need the release tool. The pump should come as a complete module, fuel level sensor, pump, housing and all. After replacing roll the tank on the side to make sure fuel does not come out of the sender seal. If it does you obviously have a leak, and if not fixed will set the check engine light for an evap leak. If you are getting the complete assembly (module) I generally break the plastic fittings off the module when the tank is removed. It is easier to fish the plastic pieces out of the fuel lines than trying to stick your hand up there in the limited space and most of the time the release tool will not fit between the module and the end of the fuel line so breaking is neccasary most of the time and is no big deal since the entire unit is being replaced.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:40:14 AM EST
I've heard of some removing the bed rather than dropping the tank.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:50:14 AM EST

Originally Posted By savage1971:
It is pretty easy. If it is a 2 door the tank is in the rear, 4 door the tank is on the left frame side. The left side is a little harder due to the strap type. The fuel line fittings will be quick disconnect so you will need the release tool. The pump should come as a complete module, fuel level sensor, pump, housing and all. After replacing roll the tank on the side to make sure fuel does not come out of the sender seal. If it does you obviously have a leak, and if not fixed will set the check engine light for an evap leak. If you are getting the complete assembly (module) I generally break the plastic fittings off the module when the tank is removed. It is easier to fish the plastic pieces out of the fuel lines than trying to stick your hand up there in the limited space and most of the time the release tool will not fit between the module and the end of the fuel line so breaking is neccasary most of the time and is no big deal since the entire unit is being replaced.


Perfect!!

So, regarding the release tool, any specifics on what to look for or ask for at the auto parts store, or can this be done with a pair of pliars of similar?

I take it that the tank has to be lifted nearly all the way back in place before the hoses are fitted to the new pump?

Much thanks for the info!
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:50:42 AM EST
A few years ago, I did this job on my '92 S10. I live on a dirt road that gets calcium chloride all summer, so the truck is rusty as hell.
I took my Sawzall and cut out a "flap" in the bed of the truck above the fuel pump on the top of the gas tank-you have to be a bit careful with depth of cut, etc.. then I bent that flap back, and had easy access to the pump. There is a ring which must be loosened to remove the pump. Of course, all the fittings were rusted up, and I ended up twisting one off. My local car parts store had a kit to replace them-must be a common thing to do. Use an air gun to blow all the crap away so it doesn't fall into the tank.
After I replaced the pump, I bent the flap back,painted the raw edges up with rustproofing stuff, cut a patch panel out of galvanized steel, and screwed it over the whole flap area. Done!
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:53:07 AM EST

Originally Posted By fsj_man:
I've heard of some removing the bed rather than dropping the tank.


Unfortunatly its a blazer, not a truck. I'd have to pull the body to get at the top of the tank.

I wish they had made an access hatch on the inside of the blazer. Sure would make this a lot easier.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:54:55 AM EST

Originally Posted By GrumpyM4:

Originally Posted By savage1971:
It is pretty easy. If it is a 2 door the tank is in the rear, 4 door the tank is on the left frame side. The left side is a little harder due to the strap type. The fuel line fittings will be quick disconnect so you will need the release tool. The pump should come as a complete module, fuel level sensor, pump, housing and all. After replacing roll the tank on the side to make sure fuel does not come out of the sender seal. If it does you obviously have a leak, and if not fixed will set the check engine light for an evap leak. If you are getting the complete assembly (module) I generally break the plastic fittings off the module when the tank is removed. It is easier to fish the plastic pieces out of the fuel lines than trying to stick your hand up there in the limited space and most of the time the release tool will not fit between the module and the end of the fuel line so breaking is neccasary most of the time and is no big deal since the entire unit is being replaced.


Perfect!!

So, regarding the release tool, any specifics on what to look for or ask for at the auto parts store, or can this be done with a pair of pliars of similar?

I take it that the tank has to be lifted nearly all the way back in place before the hoses are fitted to the new pump?

Much thanks for the info!


Advance Auto should have what you need. Also the crappy Hayne's manual has a pretty detailed section on it.

Did my 99' Blazer a year ago by myself. Had a full tank of gas when it happened. It will really help if darn near all the fuel is out.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 9:56:15 AM EST
easy job, shouldnt take you long, i did a 99 not to long ago, try to get as much of the gas out as you can, and get a small crate so you can rest it till you gell all the clips undone.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 10:00:38 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/24/2008 10:08:08 AM EST by savage1971]
They are just the quick release tools for 3/8 and 5/16 lines. Not sure if ford/gm/whatever are different, just make sure they are for GM. They also sell plastic ones and aluminum ones. If you can find the aluminum ones, get them, they are a few bucks cheaper but don't distort like the plastic ones and make it easier to remove, especially if you break the lines off.

As for removing the broken lines out of the fuel line, if you find the metal release tool, insert the tool into the line releasing the "bear claw" type of retention device. Then take a pair of channel locks and squeeze the outside of the tool applying pressure to the plastic piece inside the fuel line and then simply work out the plastic piece by pulling with the channel locks.

Eta: I also do not recall which years have the rollover vent valve with a seperate line to them. The valve will be in the front end of the tank (if side mounted) on the top and will easily break if you try to lower the tank without removing the line. Put your hand up there and check to see if there is the line that heads up there and if it is remove the rubber line before dropping the tank.

Also, if your fuel lines have the plastic ears (release tabs) at the module and are not the newwer style (easy way to tell is plastic fuel line or rubber) do not break the nipples off because you will break the fuel line itself. They are brittle. If you have the plastic lines as well you will not need the release tool. I work on too many of them to remember everything year by year.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 10:11:09 AM EST

Originally Posted By GrumpyM4:

Originally Posted By fsj_man:
I've heard of some removing the bed rather than dropping the tank.


Unfortunatly its a blazer, not a truck. I'd have to pull the body to get at the top of the tank.

I wish they had made an access hatch on the inside of the blazer. Sure would make this a lot easier.


Oops didn't read it careful enough. I'm dreading that day myselft with my Blazer. +1 on the access. I cut an access panel into my full-sized Wagoneer to get to the sending unit. I won't do the same with the Blazer though.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 10:27:45 AM EST

Originally Posted By GrumpyM4:

Checked fuel pressure, it was way low, replaced fuel filter, didn't help preassure, and all research tells me that the fuel pumps are one of the weaknesses in S10 blazers.



One of the MANY weaknesses.
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Posted: 6/24/2008 10:31:20 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/24/2008 10:31:50 AM EST by MillerSHO]

Originally Posted By rexydg7:
make sure the monkey at the parts store gives you the right pump.. I had a "W" vin and had to drop the tank and replace it 3 times before I realized the dumbass had given me a "Z" pump.


LOL his 99 only has one 4.3

The earlier models had a TBI injection model (the Z) and a CPI injection model known as the "vortec" and it has a W code.

That sucks it took you 3 times to realize their mistake.
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