Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel

Log In

A valid email is required.
Password is required.
Posted: 10/15/2001 5:04:10 AM EST
I managed to install a new CV assembly on my S10 4*4 this weekend. (I am about 90% complete actually) But, I may have a problem. The shaft spins freely and easily. The wheel hub spins with medium force when I spin it in my hands. When all is assembled back on the truck, it becomes dificult to spin everything with with one hand grabbing the lug bolts. I had imagined that it would spin with only slightly more force than the hub assimbly itself. It has new grease and seals. Perhaps that is a part of the extra drag. How freely should this be turning? Once I have everything back together, I bet that a good spin of the tire (by hand), would only coast 1-2 seconds. Your thoughts?
Link Posted: 10/15/2001 5:36:51 AM EST
With out being there, its hard to say. Your brakes are not dragging? Did you take the CV apart completely? Some times the cage, inner part that hold the bearings, has to be installed in a peticular direction. I know you've bought the kit, but when I do this kind of job, I buy the whole shaft, you get both cv's and the price of these are cheeper than rebuilding both joints. I think I pay about 60$ for a halve shaft. with that said, the wheel assembly will not spin very freely, I'd say at this point, drive it with sharp turns, if theres a problem, It'll let you know, click, etc..I'll watch your post, if you have any further info.
Link Posted: 10/15/2001 5:36:56 AM EST
Did you do both sides,if not compare to the other side. It will have a lot of drag. Sounds normal to me. VM
Link Posted: 10/15/2001 6:09:09 AM EST
I concour with the varmit, good Idea!
Link Posted: 10/15/2001 6:34:47 AM EST
You've got this truck on stands right? Look at the angle of the "A" arms.. You'll notice that the halfshaft forms a "Z" shape. Your front suspension is at maximum downward travel, and "Constant Velocity" does not always mean constant friction. Were you to now support the vehicle on the lower "A" arms, simulating it's normal ride position, it'd then feel normal.. Also, make SURE you have the nut that pulls the splines through the hub drawn down and torqued correctly. Meplat
Link Posted: 10/15/2001 6:36:41 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/15/2001 6:33:44 AM EST by DriftPunch]
I replaced the whole shaft. I'll have to jack up the other side to test it, but that one has 175,000 miles on it. I have been spinning it without the rotor on yet, so it's definately not dragging. Once I add that, it may get really hard to turn. Perhaps all this is a figment of my imagination as once the tire gets put back on, I'll have more leverage, and a little inertia to work with rather than just grabbing the wheel hub and spinning it. I hear you Meplat. I don't yet have it properly torqued, as I need to buy the socket, but I have it on with probably about 50 ft/pounds that I got with an enormous crescent wrench. Once I get that socket (where can I buy one), I'll put the required 174 ft/pounds on... I had to cut the original nut to get it off.
Link Posted: 10/15/2001 8:03:11 AM EST
Just about any auto parts store can get you the socket, and they can look up the size you need also, don't go to snap on or mac, they are very good, the best, but the price will scare the hell out of you! You only need it for your truck, maybe borrow one. I don't think you have a problem, just button it up and drive it, good luck.
Link Posted: 10/15/2001 8:19:10 AM EST
I agrere tht you really need to have the A arms in a somewhat "normal" position. If you have too much "z" to it it will be tough to turn. If you ran your vehicle in this 'fully extended' position, it would not be long before the joints tore themselves apart.
Top Top