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QUIB
AIR CAV SCOUTS
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Posted: 11/3/2006 4:16:43 PM
[Last Edit: 11/7/2006 3:47:30 PM by QUIB]
The 4WD is inop on my 2001 Ranger Edge 4.0ltr, manual tranny. I’ve been playing around a bit with this thing and have so far found out the following:

On start up when the system is inop, I get both 4WD lights momentarily lit up on the dash as normal. No type of blinking associated with diagnostics, everything seems normal until I try to activate 4WD, then I get nothing.

If I pull the fuse for 4WD on the drivers side dashboard fuse panel, and re-install it, then everything works fine. I did this the other night leaving work and the whole way home I could go into and out of 4WD as normal. I pulled up my street and into the driveway in 4WD and shut the truck off in that condition. The next morning I was still able to engage 4WD, but later after the truck sat at work all day I was back to square one. The 4WD would not engage.

Well now pulling the fuse no longer helps, I get a constant 4LOW light illuminated. I decided to try and cleanup the transfer case motor.

Upon disassembly, the motor had a good amount of water in it as well as corrosion and had that burnt electrical sweet smell. I’ve rebuilt a few DC motors so using an online tutorial I removed the whole assembly and cleaned and reassembled it. I also sprayed out the connector with Pro-Gold contact cleaner.

This did not help and I still get a constant 4LOW light on the dash. I’ve since disconnected, baged and tied back the shift motor connecters, and the 4LOW light eventually went out.

I’ve ordered a new motor, but my question is, how do I adjust the shift motor position switches after the new motor is mounted? During a tear down and build up it is recommended that the switch cover and shift motor gear housing be indexed for realignment during installation.

A new motor switch of course will not be indexed and will require adjusting to send the correct position info to the 4X4 Control Module.
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QUIB
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Posted: 11/3/2006 6:18:43 PM
Nobody knows.
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klinc
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Posted: 11/3/2006 6:20:27 PM
QUIB
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Posted: 11/3/2006 6:34:59 PM

Originally Posted By klinc:
www.automotiveforums.com


Thanks for the link!

Are you simply directing me to the site so that I can join up and search, or do they have a Tech Section I’m not seeing with DIY info?
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klinc
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Posted: 11/3/2006 6:36:50 PM
[Last Edit: 11/3/2006 6:37:42 PM by klinc]
Huge forum there for many different vehicles. I have used it on many times fixing thigns and asking questions about the Jeep.

Just go into the forums section and go to your section for your vehicle.

www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=171 Ford Ranger section.
Flakchak
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Posted: 11/3/2006 6:43:55 PM
Also, check out this site:

The Ranger Station
You seem peevish right now. I hope I have not caused you vexation or any unpleasant conjutations. I wish to.. where does it say.. um, get it on. I don't see that.
QUIB
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Posted: 11/3/2006 6:55:09 PM

Originally Posted By Flakchak:
Also, check out this site:

The Ranger Station



I’m a member there as well as two other Ranger web sites and still can’t find help. I guess car tech forum members are not as willing to help someone out as much as AR tech forum members are!

I thought for sure some ARFCOMMER could help me out.
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recoiljunky
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Posted: 11/3/2006 6:59:41 PM
Free bump
go3
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Posted: 11/3/2006 7:07:14 PM
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qualityhardware:
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NoHarmNoFAL-01
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Posted: 11/3/2006 7:13:14 PM
I have a 2002 4.0L Ranger Edge and I have found that mine will do the exact same thing when it is really cold and snowy out. Freaking great time for the 4X4 to crap out huh? The only solution I have ever seen was to replace the motor. How much was yours?
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QUIB
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Posted: 11/3/2006 10:43:06 PM
I bought a rebuild online for about $72.00.
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cartech
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Posted: 11/3/2006 11:03:55 PM
Having cleaned the contacts on several of these shift motors I have not had a problem with anything not being lined up properly. I don't think you can adjust the switches. We just clean them off with electrical contact cleaner and bolt them back on. (Just put it back in the same place it came off at).The problem you have sounds like the module is FUBARed. Usually when this condition occurs the module will "reset" when the connectors are unplugged and put back.(same as pulling the fuse)
Without actually getting my hands on the truck, My PROFESSIONAL FORD TECH* opinon would be to replace the module. This module is under the right kick panel by the way, and while you are down there make sure the wires to the fuel pump inertia switch are not routed where a passengers foot will pull the connector off and stop you dead on the road.(Seen it happen alot).
Cartech

*does not mean I am always right, only human you know.
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QUIB
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Posted: 11/4/2006 6:38:00 AM

Originally Posted By cartech:
Having cleaned the contacts on several of these shift motors I have not had a problem with anything not being lined up properly. I don't think you can adjust the switches. We just clean them off with electrical contact cleaner and bolt them back on. (Just put it back in the same place it came off at).The problem you have sounds like the module is FUBARed. Usually when this condition occurs the module will "reset" when the connectors are unplugged and put back.(same as pulling the fuse)
Without actually getting my hands on the truck, My PROFESSIONAL FORD TECH* opinon would be to replace the module. This module is under the right kick panel by the way, and while you are down there make sure the wires to the fuel pump inertia switch are not routed where a passengers foot will pull the connector off and stop you dead on the road.(Seen it happen alot).
Cartech

*does not mean I am always right, only human you know.



I pulled the motor apart and cleaned it up. If you go back through my original post you’ll see I already did that. The motor was full of moisture and corroded. This motor had that sweet, burned electrical smell to it. A new shift motor was definitely in order.

As far as the 4X4CM being toast, that is a possibility. Since the motor was shot it might have done damage to the CM as well.

When removing the motor and disassembling for cleaning, it is recommended to scribe or mark the switch covers position in relation to the worm gear housing in order to reassemble the switches in the correct location. If not, then the 4X4CM does not know the location of the motor, and you’ll get 4WD lights illuminating constantly indicating a fault in the 4WD system.

Of course, if your installing a NEW motor then you have no idea where the switches need to be, and they must be adjusted. And yes, they are adjustable. The screw holes in the cover are slotted so that the cover can be rotated to the correct position, and then the screws tightened, locking the switch cover in position.

The procedure for adjusting the switches is what I need. I could fumble my way through it, but I’ve heard it takes time and requires two people, one at the wheel, and one at the transfer case.

Every thing I’ve read online relates to REBUILDING the old motor and installing it in the EXACT position it was removed from. No one has any info on replacement AND adjustment of a NEW motor!
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Quintin
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Posted: 11/4/2006 7:31:59 AM
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AmericanPatriot
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Posted: 11/4/2006 7:51:17 AM
Remove the electric shift motor from the transfer case. With it still connected to the harness, have someone turn the dash selector and watch for the motor rotation. If the module is sending a command I think you can hear a relay click in the dashboard. Most of the time the shift motor needs replaced. Sometimes the 4x4 module is the culprit. If I recall the module is behind the radio in the center of the dash along with that relay I mentioned. Replacing the shift motor is straight forward, some wires will need to be removed from the connector harness and reinstalled. If replacing the module, a dealer scan tool is used to reprogram the information in it so that it will match the vehicle. (i.e. axle ration, tire size etc.)
alive45acp
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Posted: 11/4/2006 7:55:12 AM

Originally Posted By QUIB:

Originally Posted By cartech:
Having cleaned the contacts on several of these shift motors I have not had a problem with anything not being lined up properly. I don't think you can adjust the switches. We just clean them off with electrical contact cleaner and bolt them back on. (Just put it back in the same place it came off at).The problem you have sounds like the module is FUBARed. Usually when this condition occurs the module will "reset" when the connectors are unplugged and put back.(same as pulling the fuse)
Without actually getting my hands on the truck, My PROFESSIONAL FORD TECH* opinon would be to replace the module. This module is under the right kick panel by the way, and while you are down there make sure the wires to the fuel pump inertia switch are not routed where a passengers foot will pull the connector off and stop you dead on the road.(Seen it happen alot).
Cartech

*does not mean I am always right, only human you know.



I pulled the motor apart and cleaned it up. If you go back through my original post you’ll see I already did that. The motor was full of moisture and corroded. This motor had that sweet, burned electrical smell to it. A new shift motor was definitely in order.

As far as the 4X4CM being toast, that is a possibility. Since the motor was shot it might have done damage to the CM as well.

When removing the motor and disassembling for cleaning, it is recommended to scribe or mark the switch covers position in relation to the worm gear housing in order to reassemble the switches in the correct location. If not, then the 4X4CM does not know the location of the motor, and you’ll get 4WD lights illuminating constantly indicating a fault in the 4WD system.

Of course, if your installing a NEW motor then you have no idea where the switches need to be, and they must be adjusted. And yes, they are adjustable. The screw holes in the cover are slotted so that the cover can be rotated to the correct position, and then the screws tightened, locking the switch cover in position.

The procedure for adjusting the switches is what I need. I could fumble my way through it, but I’ve heard it takes time and requires two people, one at the wheel, and one at the transfer case.

Every thing I’ve read online relates to REBUILDING the old motor and installing it in the EXACT position it was removed from. No one has any info on replacement AND adjustment of a NEW motor!


In my past life I worked for a company that built transfer cases using a set-up similar to your Ranger. Most failures relate to the control module or motor and I agree with everything cartech has said above.

If you are installing a new or pro rebuilt motor you should not have to adjust the encoder sensor plate on the back of the motor. I think they are using safety torx screws now to prevent people from tampering with the settings. Yes, you can get a tool, loosen the screws and attempt to adjust the plate, but that should not be needed. Unless you have the t-case open and can see where the forks are located adjusting the encoder motor is just asking for trouble. IF you do attempt it, make sure you mark it and the motor housing so you can put it back to original.

-Luther
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Posted: 11/4/2006 10:06:41 AM
Originally Posted By Flakchak:
Also, check out this site:

The Ranger Station[/quote

They have a lot of info on the ranger systems. There is a fix for the electronic transfer case on their boards.
I use them a lot for my modified ranger.
I clean the electronic actuator on a regular basis
QUIB
AIR CAV SCOUTS
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Posted: 11/7/2006 3:45:49 PM
Well my new transfer case shift motor came in last night. I installed it this morning and reset the 4X4CM. So far all is working as normal. You guys who said the motor position switch required no adjustment were correct. I didn’t think that the motors are set at the factory, this link I used for rebuilding the old motor had me thinking that adjustment would be necessary.

Thanks to all who helped out.



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NoHarmNoFAL-01
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Posted: 11/7/2006 4:39:29 PM

Originally Posted By QUIB:
Well my new transfer case shift motor came in last night. I installed it this morning and reset the 4X4CM. So far all is working as normal. You guys who said the motor position switch required no adjustment were correct. I didn’t think that the motors are set at the factory, this link I used for rebuilding the old motor had me thinking that adjustment would be necessary.

Thanks to all who helped out.


www.hunt101.com/img/447962-big.jpg


How hard was it, I may be needing some moral support in a few weeks.
#1 rule of survival: Sometimes you die.

Interdum vos intereo

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QUIB
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Posted: 11/7/2006 4:49:44 PM

Originally Posted By NoHarmNoFAL-01:

Originally Posted By QUIB:
Well my new transfer case shift motor came in last night. I installed it this morning and reset the 4X4CM. So far all is working as normal. You guys who said the motor position switch required no adjustment were correct. I didn’t think that the motors are set at the factory, this link I used for rebuilding the old motor had me thinking that adjustment would be necessary.

Thanks to all who helped out.


www.hunt101.com/img/447962-big.jpg


How hard was it, I may be needing some moral support in a few weeks.


How hard was the R n’ R of the motor? Not hard at all.

Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the three housing bolts and the motor support bracket bolt and remove the motor!

Before installation of the new motor ensure the transfer case shaft and the motor drive match and install the bolts. Connect the wires and your done.

My 4X4CM’s “4LOW” relay is slow to respond, but I never use "4LOW" anyway. That’s probably why it’s slow to respond to begin with, it doesn’t get used enough!

I highly suggest the link I posted above for cleaning and inspecting the motor before you go out and buy a new motor. It was NECESSARRY that I buy a new motor. My motor was full of moisture and corroded. I’m surprised the water in the motor did not pop the fuse!
OH-58 AERO SCOUTS........"If you ain't CAV, you ain't..........."

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