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Posted: 11/3/2006 12:16:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/7/2006 11:47:30 AM EDT by QUIB]
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 2:18:43 PM EDT
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 2:20:27 PM EDT
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 2:34:59 PM EDT
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 2:36:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/3/2006 2:37:42 PM EDT by klinc]
Huge forum there for many different vehicles. I have used it on many times fixing thigns and asking questions about the Jeep.

Just go into the forums section and go to your section for your vehicle.

www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=171 Ford Ranger section.
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 2:43:55 PM EDT
Also, check out this site:

The Ranger Station
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 2:55:09 PM EDT
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 2:59:41 PM EDT
Free bump
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 3:07:14 PM EDT
The Ford guys are walking back home.
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 3:13:14 PM EDT
I have a 2002 4.0L Ranger Edge and I have found that mine will do the exact same thing when it is really cold and snowy out. Freaking great time for the 4X4 to crap out huh? The only solution I have ever seen was to replace the motor. How much was yours?
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 6:43:06 PM EDT
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 7:03:55 PM EDT
Having cleaned the contacts on several of these shift motors I have not had a problem with anything not being lined up properly. I don't think you can adjust the switches. We just clean them off with electrical contact cleaner and bolt them back on. (Just put it back in the same place it came off at).The problem you have sounds like the module is FUBARed. Usually when this condition occurs the module will "reset" when the connectors are unplugged and put back.(same as pulling the fuse)
Without actually getting my hands on the truck, My PROFESSIONAL FORD TECH* opinon would be to replace the module. This module is under the right kick panel by the way, and while you are down there make sure the wires to the fuel pump inertia switch are not routed where a passengers foot will pull the connector off and stop you dead on the road.(Seen it happen alot).
Cartech

*does not mean I am always right, only human you know.
Link Posted: 11/4/2006 2:38:00 AM EDT
Link Posted: 11/4/2006 3:31:59 AM EDT
Tagged for later...
Link Posted: 11/4/2006 3:51:17 AM EDT
Remove the electric shift motor from the transfer case. With it still connected to the harness, have someone turn the dash selector and watch for the motor rotation. If the module is sending a command I think you can hear a relay click in the dashboard. Most of the time the shift motor needs replaced. Sometimes the 4x4 module is the culprit. If I recall the module is behind the radio in the center of the dash along with that relay I mentioned. Replacing the shift motor is straight forward, some wires will need to be removed from the connector harness and reinstalled. If replacing the module, a dealer scan tool is used to reprogram the information in it so that it will match the vehicle. (i.e. axle ration, tire size etc.)
Link Posted: 11/4/2006 3:55:12 AM EDT

Originally Posted By QUIB:

Originally Posted By cartech:
Having cleaned the contacts on several of these shift motors I have not had a problem with anything not being lined up properly. I don't think you can adjust the switches. We just clean them off with electrical contact cleaner and bolt them back on. (Just put it back in the same place it came off at).The problem you have sounds like the module is FUBARed. Usually when this condition occurs the module will "reset" when the connectors are unplugged and put back.(same as pulling the fuse)
Without actually getting my hands on the truck, My PROFESSIONAL FORD TECH* opinon would be to replace the module. This module is under the right kick panel by the way, and while you are down there make sure the wires to the fuel pump inertia switch are not routed where a passengers foot will pull the connector off and stop you dead on the road.(Seen it happen alot).
Cartech

*does not mean I am always right, only human you know.



I pulled the motor apart and cleaned it up. If you go back through my original post you’ll see I already did that. The motor was full of moisture and corroded. This motor had that sweet, burned electrical smell to it. A new shift motor was definitely in order.

As far as the 4X4CM being toast, that is a possibility. Since the motor was shot it might have done damage to the CM as well.

When removing the motor and disassembling for cleaning, it is recommended to scribe or mark the switch covers position in relation to the worm gear housing in order to reassemble the switches in the correct location. If not, then the 4X4CM does not know the location of the motor, and you’ll get 4WD lights illuminating constantly indicating a fault in the 4WD system.

Of course, if your installing a NEW motor then you have no idea where the switches need to be, and they must be adjusted. And yes, they are adjustable. The screw holes in the cover are slotted so that the cover can be rotated to the correct position, and then the screws tightened, locking the switch cover in position.

The procedure for adjusting the switches is what I need. I could fumble my way through it, but I’ve heard it takes time and requires two people, one at the wheel, and one at the transfer case.

Every thing I’ve read online relates to REBUILDING the old motor and installing it in the EXACT position it was removed from. No one has any info on replacement AND adjustment of a NEW motor!


In my past life I worked for a company that built transfer cases using a set-up similar to your Ranger. Most failures relate to the control module or motor and I agree with everything cartech has said above.

If you are installing a new or pro rebuilt motor you should not have to adjust the encoder sensor plate on the back of the motor. I think they are using safety torx screws now to prevent people from tampering with the settings. Yes, you can get a tool, loosen the screws and attempt to adjust the plate, but that should not be needed. Unless you have the t-case open and can see where the forks are located adjusting the encoder motor is just asking for trouble. IF you do attempt it, make sure you mark it and the motor housing so you can put it back to original.

-Luther
Link Posted: 11/4/2006 6:06:41 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Flakchak:
Also, check out this site:

The Ranger Station[/quote

They have a lot of info on the ranger systems. There is a fix for the electronic transfer case on their boards.
I use them a lot for my modified ranger.
I clean the electronic actuator on a regular basis
Link Posted: 11/7/2006 11:45:49 AM EDT
Link Posted: 11/7/2006 12:39:29 PM EDT

Originally Posted By QUIB:
Well my new transfer case shift motor came in last night. I installed it this morning and reset the 4X4CM. So far all is working as normal. You guys who said the motor position switch required no adjustment were correct. I didn’t think that the motors are set at the factory, this link I used for rebuilding the old motor had me thinking that adjustment would be necessary.

Thanks to all who helped out.


www.hunt101.com/img/447962-big.jpg


How hard was it, I may be needing some moral support in a few weeks.
Link Posted: 11/7/2006 12:49:44 PM EDT
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