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Posted: 6/27/2017 7:02:33 AM EDT
Would be nice to have a boat section

So I bought a small aluminum boat and it came with an outboard

No numbers anywhere on the engine/tranny/lower unit etc.

Posted on Iboats and got some good help

TL;DR crowd, question is at bottom in bold letters

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

I picked up a 13ft aluminum boat and it came with this mounted to the back, I took it off to fix the transom and decided to look at it today

No numbers on engine anywhere, id with decals and the Tohatsu website


1)Good bright spark
2)Plug looked good
3)Cylinder looking through plug hole looked good
4)good compression (no gage just felt good with throttle closed and plug in)

It turns over so my reason for the thread

The fuel line is a "stepped" rubber fuel line with a small and big end (which is cracked and not long enough or pliable to cut back)



it needs to be replaced, where to buy?

The small end goes to fuel regulator?



and gas tank on back side

What fits here, beside the line going to carb?



Also this is not connected to anything and it looks like it has been cut



I haven't had luck finding pictures online

Paul from NY posted this response

John from NYThe M3.5A was originally designed for gravity feed fuel to the carb. That clear fuel line must go, it hardens and is unsafe when used with gasoline. Your motor has been setup to use an external fuel tank in addition to the internal tank (not typically necessary, since they use so little fuel). That device on the side of the motor is not a regulator, it's a vacuum-operated fuel pump. The connector below the pump is where the external tank used to connect. The hose on the front of the motor is the vacuum pulse to the pump. You can take all that stuff off the motor (cap or plug the front vacuum port), get new fuel line from any dealer, and you can just run on gravity feed. You may also want a new internal fuel tank, which is shaped and mounts quite differently than the one on your motor, and uses a fuel shutoff cock with strainer..

Based on age and appearance, you will also probably want a new water impeller, which is located on the prop shaft between the prop and the LU gears.
View Quote
Sorry for picture quality, the sun on white panels was not friendly

I replaced the lines per current setup to see if she fires up, THANK YOU PAUL!!!!!

I used 3/16 ID fuel line and it fit all the connections that ranged from .195 to .220 diameter

I didnt replace the clear line yet, nothing in stock in the mountains of TN.

I had nothing coming out of carb, took it apart and main jet and needle valve was gunked with a white glue like stuff, cleaned and put back together






next was starting her, little bit of gas in carb and she sputtered, pulled a few moar times with choke on and flooded the ole girl

so remembering the 80's and youth, I pulled plug, left choke open and throttle open and dried her out

put plug back in, 1 pull with choke one and then back to open, she fired right up, I guess 85* doesnt really need a choke

she sat idling like an old dirt bike or 3 wheeler!!!!

Throttle response was VERY crisp!

Put into a tank I cut off today and......where is the tell tale water supposed to come from? I guess the passages and impeller need replacing any ways



water depth was above the only holes I could find on lower unit



I kept my hand on the head/cylinder the whole time to not overheat

THIS HOSE had air coming out of it? is this a engine vent? or the tell tale with no impeller to shove water through



Thank you!!

John from NYUnless that tank requires the fuel pump, you could route the hose from the carb right to the tank, eliminating the fuel pump, but then you would need the fuel cock of the newer style tank. That hose that is blowing air is the telltale. Clearly you are not pumping water. Depending on condition, you may also need the pump case and gear case head; there isn't any stainless liner or wear plate for the pump, so those aluminum parts can wear, and cause too much side clearance at the impeller. Fuel mix is 50:1.
View Quote
Tore down tonight, there is a reason monkey's shouldn't play with anything other than bananas

It doesn't matter if it is car/house or boat related

So i pulled out the prop cotter key, removed prop and the key fell out (1/2 inch long nail with head still on it)

I shook my head, went to loosen 2 bolts, yup, lower one, tab is broken off
Pulled cover, the impeller (it was whole just a couple dry rotted broken vanes)
Pulled it and drive pin
Next was impeller housing..
Guess what?
Lower tab broken off

Here are parts and best is yet to come!!!




Flipped over, see shiny ring where prop rubbed?



The cause for wear mark?

The monkey got out of the trunk! And grabbed wrenches...errrr

No wonder it leaked water and wouldn't pump to cool motor....


You think they over tightened the bolts?
This is...
Why people can't have nice things

So i need housing, bearing, seal, impeller and cover

Best place to get part?

Biggest problem is how bad was this overheated?

This is where I stand, except I can not find parts

I went to tohatsoutboardparts dot com, and they only have the impeller, and local places are trying to have my buy a new engine

Any idea where to get parts?

Before I take the time to make new ones

TIA
Link Posted: 6/27/2017 7:38:20 AM EDT
[#1]
iboats
Draper UT.
Link Posted: 6/27/2017 8:22:55 AM EDT
[#2]
adding picture so I know where it is



I need 9, 8, 7, 10, 11, and 12
Link Posted: 6/27/2017 9:37:25 AM EDT
[#3]
I have a similar one, a 3.3 HP Johnson (this Tohatsu was rebadged under many Mfg, Johnson, Evenrude, Mercury, Mariner being just a few).

Do get a $3 inline Fuel shutoff valve. After you run it shut the fuel off and drain the fuel line and carb bowl by removing the tiny drain screw on the bottom of the carb bowl. One more thing for any water cooled 2-stroke kicker, when removing or storing the engine right after you have ran it never let the lower unit get higher than the power head for a while after you have run it. Any water left in the lower and mid section can run right through the exhaust port into the cylinder. Not a good thing with needle bearings.

Great little engines.
Link Posted: 6/27/2017 9:49:33 AM EDT
[#4]
Link Posted: 6/27/2017 10:03:08 AM EDT
[#5]
Why can't the missing tabs be reconstructed by welding if the parts aren't available?
Link Posted: 6/27/2017 10:24:40 AM EDT
[#6]
welding is out I believe; These are very cheap and dirty pot metal, if I can't get them cheap, I will machine some from billet and then buy a seal/bearing and the impeller

I have a dealer quoting all the parts now and will post back with results

I will do an actually compression test, when I pull out my gage this week, if pressure is good (and it started and ran fine the other day) I will fix lower end...if not I will probably rebuild it

Thanks for link to fishing area

Can a mod move this there for me?
Link Posted: 6/30/2017 6:46:14 AM EDT
[#7]
Checked compression a couple times last night

Choke open
Throttle open
Dry, except for residual fuel

3 pulls each to reach max# 30, 70, 90#

Repeated test 3 times, same results 90# max

Small 2 stroke, rope pull, this should be okay, correct?

The interwebz says GTG and low

Whatcha think?
Link Posted: 6/30/2017 7:18:17 AM EDT
[#8]
the compression is low, but if it has adjustable valves they very likely need some adjusting just due to age and obvious lack of maintenance. I do not know much about outboards but most small engines I have had this has been the case.
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