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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:25:37 PM EDT
[#1]
Okay; I let the PB Blaster set for a few hours, and came back to it with my wrench and a 8" inch pipe over it for maximum results.
GOOD NEWS!!! Left hub bolts are all off, and the hub is off. Right hub bolts are all of, except for one.... However it's now loose, and about 1/16th to 1/8th off. BAD NEWS that last f#cking bolt, that is 1/16th to 1/8th off, somehow just had its 12 point threading strip 
So the bolt is sorta loose... but now the T12 threading in it is stripped.... Now what? Photo of stripped bolt 
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:28:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Breaker bar w/6' pipe. Far too likely to twist the head off or round the hex. Then you're drilling the bolt out which isn't fun. At that point hopefully you've got a tap on hand or else you're probably going to have to order one. Had that happen more than once. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:30:02 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay; I let the PB Blaster set for a few hours, and came back to it with my wrench and a 8" inch pipe over it for maximum results. GOOD NEWS!!! Left hub bolts are all off, and the hub is off. Right hub bolts are all of, except for one.... However it's now loose, and about 1/16th to 1/8th off. BAD NEWS that last f#cking bolt, that is 1/16th to 1/8th off, somehow just had its 12 point threading strip
So the bolt is sorta loose... but now the T12 threading in it is stripped.... Now what? Congrats!!! Vice grips on the bolt |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:31:36 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay; I let the PB Blaster set for a few hours, and came back to it with my wrench and a 8" inch pipe over it for maximum results. GOOD NEWS!!! Left hub bolts are all off, and the hub is off. Right hub bolts are all of, except for one.... However it's now loose, and about 1/16th to 1/8th off. BAD NEWS that last f#cking bolt, that is 1/16th to 1/8th off, somehow just had its 12 point threading strip
So the bolt is sorta loose... but now the T12 threading in it is stripped.... Now what? Edit: Re. your pic you added--that kind of bolt, assuming you have the space, responds to just using a 1/16" cutting disk on an angle grinder to <carefully> cut a slot in it. You can then use a large screwdriver to back it out. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:36:55 PM EDT
[#5]
sell it.
I wouldn't wish hub replacement on my worst enemy. I replaced hubs on all 4 corners of a saturn vue. Saved a ton of money, but man it took a lot of time. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:37:22 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I love mine Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Induction bolt heater.  Induction heater in the top 5 "Tools I thought I'd never use but cannot live without now" list. Rarely used, but when it's needed, it's needed, a torch isn't the same. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:46:33 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay; I let the PB Blaster set for a few hours, and came back to it with my wrench and a 8" inch pipe over it for maximum results. GOOD NEWS!!! Left hub bolts are all off, and the hub is off. Right hub bolts are all of, except for one.... However it's now loose, and about 1/16th to 1/8th off. BAD NEWS that last f#cking bolt, that is 1/16th to 1/8th off, somehow just had its 12 point threading strip
So the bolt is sorta loose... but now the T12 threading in it is stripped.... Now what? Photo of stripped bolt http://www.nextdayauto.com/auto_images/genuine/2008-volkswagen-passat-axle-hub-mounting-bolt-rear-front-genuine-w0133-1960385-2928149.jpg Is it a torx recess screw, like this, 
or a male Torx bolt, like this 
or a 12 point bolt head, as in takes a regular 12 socket ? 
And when you say 1/16 to 1/8 off, do you mean ratio to length, or 1/16" to 1/8" gap under head? ETA - never mind - didn't see the photo you posted. I would just weld a nut over it, and quietly back it out, but i'm assuming you do not have welding equipment. Maybe smash a Torx bit into the recess, using a big hammer to sort of broach its way into it. Maybe add some heat, get the head and shaft red, LET IT COOL, TOTALLY, try vise grips on it. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:50:48 PM EDT
[#8]
Reapply PB (or ATF) and work it in and out.
ETA: If you must use vicegrips really clamp them down and/or consider filing a couple of flats on the head so you don't just rip the head apart. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:57:00 PM EDT
[#9]
Vice grips if you can get them on. If you can't fit vice grips you can use these little guys (they've saved my ass a few times, this weekend recently when changing a manifold and rounded a nut), http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/5-pc-bolt-grip-expansion-set
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Posted: 2/27/2017 5:00:45 PM EDT
[#10]
google "boltout" I have used that tool more than I can say
screw extractor style around the outter head style 
works great with an impact |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 5:00:48 PM EDT
[#11]
Stuck bolts usually respond better to impact than to a huge slow twist
sometimes banging the wrench with a lump hammer will pop a bolt loose but if you put a breaker bar on it and put a huge twist on it, it strips or the head twists off the bolt |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 5:29:32 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stuck bolts usually respond better to impact than to a huge slow twist sometimes banging the wrench with a lump hammer will pop a bolt loose but if you put a breaker bar on it and put a huge twist on it, it strips or the head twists off the bolt This whole quote BUT smacking the shit out of it a cougple of time is important rather than torque. Nice tool for this issue is an impact driver set. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=vglnk-c102-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0002NYDRG |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 5:34:56 PM EDT
[#13]
I've had 40-60 results with screw extractor kits. You tap a hole into the screw. Then, screw in the screw extractor counter-clockwise. It gets tighter then more you turn it.
I had a screw extractor break in the hole. I ended up drilling the screw extractor out and the bolt itself with a drill. I kept of drilling with larger drill bits until the bolt was thinned out so I could use a screwdriver to bang out the remaining material of the bolt. This method worked and is like shaving down a log to make a toothpick. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 5:42:31 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've had 40-60 results with screw extractor kits. You tap a hole into the screw. Then, screw in the screw extractor counter-clockwise. It gets tighter then more you turn it. I had a screw extractor break in the hole. I ended up drilling the screw extractor out and the bolt itself with a drill. I kept of drilling with larger drill bits until the bolt was thinned out so I could use a screwdriver to bang out the remaining material of the bolt. This method worked and is like shaving down a log to make a toothpick. Not an experienced mechanic but I've had little luck trying to drill out a screw or bolt. Seems like the ones I break are some hardened steel that does not drill easily. What do you do with hardened steel bolts/studs? |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 5:48:09 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not an experienced mechanic but I've had little luck trying to drill out a screw or bolt. Seems like the ones I break are some hardened steel that does not drill easily. What do you do with hardened steel bolts/studs? Get out that hot wrench and get to it!!!!! |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 5:56:06 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
BAD NEWS that last f#cking bolt, that is 1/16th to 1/8th off, somehow just had its 12 point threading strip
So the bolt is sorta loose... but now the T12 threading in it is stripped.... Now what? Photo of stripped bolt http://www.nextdayauto.com/auto_images/genuine/2008-volkswagen-passat-axle-hub-mounting-bolt-rear-front-genuine-w0133-1960385-2928149.jpg I recently had the same problem. I drilled out the bolt head enough to hammer the next larger T-socket into the hole. The bolt easily came out probably because of the heat from drilling and the release of tension from the hole. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 6:29:15 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Old school is milk of magnesia (sp), old timèr showed me that trick when trying to remove broken tie bars from 240 ton presses, takes a couple of days but it does wonders. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 6:31:03 PM EDT
[#18]
Weld a nut on the end.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 7:20:26 PM EDT
[#19]
The project, is on postpone, until tomorrow.
Until then, 3 beers to lick my wounds with. I'm not sure why anyone would hire a mechanic. This type of work is too fulfilling. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 7:23:12 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay; I let the PB Blaster set for a few hours, and came back to it with my wrench and a 8" inch pipe over it for maximum results. GOOD NEWS!!! Left hub bolts are all off, and the hub is off. Right hub bolts are all of, except for one.... However it's now loose, and about 1/16th to 1/8th off. BAD NEWS that last f#cking bolt, that is 1/16th to 1/8th off, somehow just had its 12 point threading strip
So the bolt is sorta loose... but now the T12 threading in it is stripped.... Now what? Photo of stripped bolt http://www.nextdayauto.com/auto_images/genuine/2008-volkswagen-passat-axle-hub-mounting-bolt-rear-front-genuine-w0133-1960385-2928149.jpg LOL thats a triple square, not a torx. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 7:23:47 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
google "boltout" I have used that tool more than I can say screw extractor style around the outter head style
works great with an impact yeah don't do that. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 8:42:01 PM EDT
[#22]
Heat, then heat, and if that doesn't work, heat.
Penetrating oils (PB, Kroil, Acetone/ATF) seldom if ever work for me. Tried and tried, success rate just sucks, so I go right to heat. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 8:42:59 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Induction heater in the top 5 "Tools I thought I'd never use but cannot live without now" list. Rarely used, but when it's needed, it's needed, a torch isn't the same. At one time I saw a DIY induction heater specifically built for things like stuck bolts. But I didn't save the link. Google only seems to return general-purpose devices with a jumbo coil that won't fit into tight spaces. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 8:48:56 PM EDT
[#24]
If you can't get vice grips on it see if you can cut a slot in it with a dremel tool and screw it in and out with lots of oil on the threads. Gotta make sure you don't strip the head.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 9:32:07 PM EDT
[#25]
If you have ample access around the head of the bolt then I would consider using a dremel to grind a couple flats on the head of the bolt and use an open ended wrench on it to remove it.
ETA: Since your calling it a night liberally apply some more PB Blaster to let it work it's magic overnight. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 9:40:56 PM EDT
[#26]
The oil that creeps
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Posted: 2/27/2017 9:45:30 PM EDT
[#27]
I bought some sockets that bite into the bolt. Has reverse thread. Got them off Amazon. Dont remember the brand but they saved my ass.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 10:04:23 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The project, is on postpone, until tomorrow. Until then, 3 beers to lick my wounds with. I'm not sure why anyone would hire a mechanic. This type of work is too fulfilling. Good idea. I did shocks on my truck this weekend. The 2 passenger side came right off, done with both in 10-15 minutes each. Both driver's side were a royal PITA. Rear had a stripped nut on the upper mount that I walked away from for a night and pondered my strategy (eventually used vice grips), and the front ultimately required a cut off wheel. Each time walking away probably saved me from making the situation much worse. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 10:35:52 PM EDT
[#29]
Try some valve grinding compound,,, It might give you just enough grip..
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Posted: 2/27/2017 10:44:15 PM EDT
[#30]
One of the manual impact wrenches may be handy. Easier to not strip fasteners of that style.
Maybe cut a slot into the bolt and take a flat head to it. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 10:58:29 PM EDT
[#31]
Sucks -- good luck getting that last bolt out.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 1:36:07 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not an experienced mechanic but I've had little luck trying to drill out a screw or bolt. Seems like the ones I break are some hardened steel that does not drill easily. What do you do with hardened steel bolts/studs? No, they don't drill easily. I just buy a drill bit for metal and start drilling. Go from smaller bits to larger bits. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 1:42:50 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm a do-it-yourself car maintenance, minor repair grease monkey, not a professional mechanic. No, they don't drill easily. I just buy a drill bit for metal and start drilling. Go from smaller bits to larger bits. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Not an experienced mechanic but I've had little luck trying to drill out a screw or bolt. Seems like the ones I break are some hardened steel that does not drill easily. What do you do with hardened steel bolts/studs? No, they don't drill easily. I just buy a drill bit for metal and start drilling. Go from smaller bits to larger bits. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 1:51:56 AM EDT
[#35]
Cut the head off and leave the stud in the old hub assy
Get new bolts |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 1:53:22 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good idea. I did shocks on my truck this weekend. The 2 passenger side came right off, done with both in 10-15 minutes each. Both driver's side were a royal PITA. Rear had a stripped nut on the upper mount that I walked away from for a night and pondered my strategy (eventually used vice grips), and the front ultimately required a cut off wheel. Each time walking away probably saved me from making the situation much worse. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The project, is on postpone, until tomorrow. Until then, 3 beers to lick my wounds with. I'm not sure why anyone would hire a mechanic. This type of work is too fulfilling. Good idea. I did shocks on my truck this weekend. The 2 passenger side came right off, done with both in 10-15 minutes each. Both driver's side were a royal PITA. Rear had a stripped nut on the upper mount that I walked away from for a night and pondered my strategy (eventually used vice grips), and the front ultimately required a cut off wheel. Each time walking away probably saved me from making the situation much worse. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 1:55:48 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A quality cobalt bit is best--with lube and turned slowly. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Not an experienced mechanic but I've had little luck trying to drill out a screw or bolt. Seems like the ones I break are some hardened steel that does not drill easily. What do you do with hardened steel bolts/studs? No, they don't drill easily. I just buy a drill bit for metal and start drilling. Go from smaller bits to larger bits. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 1:58:59 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
reverse drill bits are what you need Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Not an experienced mechanic but I've had little luck trying to drill out a screw or bolt. Seems like the ones I break are some hardened steel that does not drill easily. What do you do with hardened steel bolts/studs? No, they don't drill easily. I just buy a drill bit for metal and start drilling. Go from smaller bits to larger bits. 
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Posted: 2/28/2017 2:24:35 AM EDT
[#39]
Try to walk the bolt out with a chisel before drilling on it. Drilling on it should be your last resort. If you do have to drill go slow. The cheaper easyouts with the steeper pitch flutes are usually better at backing bolts out than the shorter ones.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 2:29:35 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For the OP, yes. But that's not what I was addressing. Ideally one would have a set of left-hand cobalt bits, but I don't know if they are made (I would guess they are). Was wondering about that. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 3:00:19 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not an experienced mechanic but I've had little luck trying to drill out a screw or bolt. Seems like the ones I break are some hardened steel that does not drill easily. What do you do with hardened steel bolts/studs? I have broken a tap off in a hole before. Now, I have never done it, but if you have the equipment, use a hammer drill set to just hammer, and chuck up a carbide hammer drill bit in it. Supposedly, the harder carbide causes the hardened steel tap to shatter. Supposedly... |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 3:11:54 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have broken a tap off in a hole before. Now, I have never done it, but if you have the equipment, use a hammer drill set to just hammer, and chuck up a carbide hammer drill bit in it. Supposedly, the harder carbide causes the hardened steel tap to shatter. Supposedly... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Not an experienced mechanic but I've had little luck trying to drill out a screw or bolt. Seems like the ones I break are some hardened steel that does not drill easily. What do you do with hardened steel bolts/studs? I have broken a tap off in a hole before. Now, I have never done it, but if you have the equipment, use a hammer drill set to just hammer, and chuck up a carbide hammer drill bit in it. Supposedly, the harder carbide causes the hardened steel tap to shatter. Supposedly... They make a tool specifically for drilling out E-Z-Outs. It is harder than a whore's heart and made for the purpose. I'll see if I can find the link. Costly at ~$45 IIRC. 
Edit: Found it--"Rescue Bit" |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 3:53:22 AM EDT
[#43]
Read the wax on, wax off portion about half way down. It works pretty well.
http://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/the-art-of-removing-stuck-nuts-and-bolts/ |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 4:25:32 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay; I let the PB Blaster set for a few hours, and came back to it with my wrench and a 8" inch pipe over it for maximum results. GOOD NEWS!!! Left hub bolts are all off, and the hub is off. Right hub bolts are all of, except for one.... However it's now loose, and about 1/16th to 1/8th off. BAD NEWS that last f#cking bolt, that is 1/16th to 1/8th off, somehow just had its 12 point threading strip
So the bolt is sorta loose... but now the T12 threading in it is stripped.... Now what? Photo of stripped bolt http://www.nextdayauto.com/auto_images/genuine/2008-volkswagen-passat-axle-hub-mounting-bolt-rear-front-genuine-w0133-1960385-2928149.jpg What ever happened with the whole your property line/neighbors property line dispute thing? This thread reminded me of that thread, but I've been gone for a while. 
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Posted: 2/28/2017 5:13:03 AM EDT
[#45]
these should help
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Posted: 2/28/2017 1:43:08 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you can't get vice grips on it see if you can cut a slot in it with a dremel tool and screw it in and out with lots of oil on the threads. Gotta make sure you don't strip the head. This is what I've always done. Cut a slot in it and use a flat head. If that strips, break out an EZ out or if you have a welder you can weld a bolt to it and hope the heating/cooling of welding helps break it loose. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 2:45:11 PM EDT
[#47]
UPDATE!!
I bought a bolt extractor,drilled the hole into the bolt and put the bolt extractor in it. The damn thing is tore up my tap wrench, so I'm now using a crescent wrench. With some muscle, I can get it to seized bolt wiggle some, but it's not threading out. Because the bolt extractor seems pretty torqued in there when I crank on it, I'm going to go to the heat wax method for the rusted threading that I think it's having a hard time feeding through the threaded hole and is the bane of my existence. I'm also going to get a pipe to stick over my crescent wrench to give me some more leverage. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 2:48:14 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
UPDATE!! I bought a bolt extractor,drilled the hole into the bolt and put the bolt extractor in it. The damn thing is tore up my tap wrench, so I'm now using a crescent wrench. With some muscle, I can get it to seized bolt wiggle some, but it's not threading out. Because the bolt extractor seems pretty torqued in there when I crank on it, I'm going to go to the heat wax method for the rusted threading that I think it's having a hard time feeding through the threaded hole and is the bane of my existence. I'm also going to get a pipe to stick over my crescent wrench to give me some more leverage. Now now OP, what did 80FL tell you about heat? Yeah, you were warned and you disregarded your warning. Now you must face the consequences of your unruly behavior. Someday OP..........................someday you will listen to your elders in matters such as this. For now you must learn your lessons. They will serve you well in your future.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 2:50:48 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What ever happened with the whole your property line/neighbors property line dispute thing? This thread reminded me of that thread, but I've been gone for a while. I found existing survey marker lines, where based upon those, the shed is on his side with the 15' foot minimal offset; however, when he planeted his row of pine trees to seperate our two properties 20 years ago, it was off course and more on my side, and gave the illusion everything was on my property from a satellite image. Well, his trees are, not the shed. Free wood, at his expense. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 3:04:45 PM EDT
[#50]
Be careful with that bolt rounder and a cheater bar. I have broken a few of those and they are not fun to drill out.
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