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Posted: 2/27/2017 1:49:10 PM EDT
[#1]
yes, the miracle spray is PB Blaster
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-The-Original-PB-Penetrant-16-PB/205178591 |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 1:50:25 PM EDT
[#2]
Get some form of penetrating oil. I like Kroil, personally, and have used it with success on 100+ year old rusted screws.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 1:50:37 PM EDT
[#3]
Yes definitely try some Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster before jumping to the torch. Just let it soak for a good while to let it loosen up.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 1:52:30 PM EDT
[#4]
PB blaster works wonders for auto. I havent tried Kroil for automotive use, as PB usually works for me.
I'm assuming you've used heat and plenty of leverage with a cheater bar? You can try a cheater bar while someone is pounding on the bolt with a BFH too. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 1:53:07 PM EDT
[#5]
Kroil or a 50/50 mix of auto trans fluid and acetone.
Let soak. Apply vibration. Repeat. After a couple days of this, add heat and torque. The above works on century-old rusted fasteners; it should make short work of yours. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 1:53:33 PM EDT
[#6]
heat is your friend.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 1:53:35 PM EDT
[#7]
Penetrating Oil and heat....
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Posted: 2/27/2017 1:59:22 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Kroil or a 50/50 mix of auto trans fluid and acetone. Let soak. Apply vibration. Repeat. After a couple days of this, add heat and torque. The above works on century-old rusted fasteners; it should make short work of yours. Someone else that's cleaned up an IMA Martini! 
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:01:39 PM EDT
[#9]
Kroil or some good old ed's red.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:01:41 PM EDT
[#10]
Induction bolt heater.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:02:43 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Induction bolt heater. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:04:36 PM EDT
[#12]
The blue wrench is your friend.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:09:33 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Penetrating Oil and heat.... it doesn't even matter what kind but this is the answer. also "shocking" it works well, heat it up, then hit it with cold water to cool it down quickly, the thermal shock helps break them loose.. a breaker bar and cheater pipe are also helpful because air tools while stronger then they used to be aren't all that. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:10:00 PM EDT
[#14]
Soak with PB blaster. Wait a day. Weld a nut to it and wrench it off.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:11:54 PM EDT
[#15]
FPNI
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:13:11 PM EDT
[#16]
I just replaced everything down to the ball joints on my '94 F150. My pennsylvania rust beats your Va. rust and I just used a 4 foot long cheater bar homemade outta pipe. I guarendamntee you it'll work for you! If need be then just beat a socket onto any bolt that won't cooperate! I like PB Blaster too but the cheater bar will work without it.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:18:00 PM EDT
[#17]
Kroil and impact wrench
Melt candle wax into the threads and impact wrench Heat the nut and impact wrench if all else fails get the heat wrench out and cut it off |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:20:06 PM EDT
[#18]
Poor man's way: Kroil, brake fluid, ATF, tapping gently, and time. If that doesn't work, torch time.
Best way: induction heater, if you can get it to fit. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:28:52 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Penetrating Oil and heat.... There is absolutely NO substitute for heat and pen oil. Just remember that heat first expands then it shrinks. If you need a nut removed, heat it then remove it while still HOT. If you need a bolt removed, heat it then let it cool a bit to shrink. I love my Dogs. I love my Kids. I used to love my Wife. But I REALLY LOVE MY HEAT. 
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:33:18 PM EDT
[#20]
Can you use a bolt splitter or cut it off?
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:36:36 PM EDT
[#21]
Get it hot and then spray it hot with kroil. Heat pulls the oil into the threads.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:37:17 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
yes, the miracle spray is PB Blaster http://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-11-oz-The-Original-PB-Penetrant-16-PB/205178591 Okay, I ran down to Advanced, and bought some PB Blaster. Last can! The bolts are currently soaking. Just wondering ideally how many minutes it should soak in. It's pretty bad. Is it an overnight soak? |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:39:03 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay, I ran down to Advanced, and bought some PB Blaster. Last can! The bolts are currently soaking. Just wondering ideally how many minutes it should soak in. It's pretty bad. Is it an overnight soak? Overnight is good. Heat is better. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:41:04 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Okay, I ran down to Advanced, and bought some PB Blaster. Last can! The bolts are currently soaking. Just wondering ideally how many minutes it should soak in. It's pretty bad. Is it an overnight soak? if you had a MAP torch you could be done in 15 minuets.. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:41:56 PM EDT
[#25]
The first 5 replys nail it.
Kroil works a little better than BP blaster. Spray it on, go do something else for a little while, spray again, go do something else, then hit it with the impact wrench again. Heat is a last resort. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:43:18 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just replaced everything down to the ball joints on my '94 F150. My pennsylvania rust beats your Va. rust and I just used a 4 foot long cheater bar homemade outta pipe. I guarendamntee you it'll work for you! If need be then just beat a socket onto any bolt that won't cooperate! I like PB Blaster too but the cheater bar will work without it. Until you break the bolt off, then what??? |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:44:16 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The first 5 replys nail it. Kroil works a little better than BP blaster. Spray it on, go do something else for a little while, spray again, go do something else, then hit it with the impact wrench again. Heat is a last resort. What is this heat everyone is talking about? Like a propane torch? |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:44:35 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The first 5 replys nail it. Kroil works a little better than BP blaster. Spray it on, go do something else for a little while, spray again, go do something else, then hit it with the impact wrench again. Heat is a last resort. Heat is always the second resort. The last resort is when you break off the bolt or stud and end up drilling and using an e-z-out. 
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:46:23 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What is this heat everyone is talking about? Like a propane torch? Preferably an Oxy-Acetylene torch with a fine tip to concentrate the heat where you want it. A propane torch may work for you but it's so-so at best. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:48:49 PM EDT
[#30]
Put impact in reverse
Edit; or use kroil.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:51:43 PM EDT
[#31]
I've had many bolts over the years that PB Blaster didn't faze at all. Kroil on the other hand, I've had very few that I had to use heat. Spray, let sit overnight, smack with a hammer and remove.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:58:41 PM EDT
[#32]
Try tightening it.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 2:59:46 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've had many bolts over the years that PB Blaster didn't faze at all. Kroil on the other hand, I've had very few that I had to use heat. Spray, let sit overnight, smack with a hammer and remove. PB Blaster is called "weasel piss" by those who use it. 
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:04:59 PM EDT
[#34]
Wisconsin rust expert...
cut the bolt? My favorite... a "i'm not fucking around bar".... pretty much a big steel pipe you use on your ratchet for leverage. I have one that's 8' long that I sometimes use. the 4' one is pretty handy PB Blaster Heat PB blaster... then heat... then your air tool... repeat. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:05:19 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Preferably an Oxy-Acetylene torch with a fine tip to concentrate the heat where you want it. A propane torch may work for you but it's so-so at best. also read this advice : taking shit apart on the farm |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:06:43 PM EDT
[#36]
I had one hub bolt that was so seized, I put a 10 foot cheater on it, jacked the front up to give me clearance for the bar, then snapped the bolt head right off. then the hub assembly just slid right off over the broken bolt, exposing about 2 inches of bolt stud that then threaded right out finger loose.
so, in my experience, (this was a 2003ish tahoe) having the other bolts out increases pressure on that last remaining bolt, unevenly, making it bind up and be a bitch. heat is good. gotta get it HOT and the hub will heat sink the heat away so you have to torch it for a long time. water penetrates better than oil and lubes, it works as a good bolt breaker. banging on shit with a big hammer works, to jar everything loose. get a good quality BRAND NEW socket and get it on that bolt. old shit will strip the bolt face. but yeah, look at the bolt and if the vehicle is a early 2000's chevy truck, you can grind the bolt head off and the hub will slide off the stud. then you can get some BAVG's (big ass vice grips) and lock onto the stud and thread it out. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:09:23 PM EDT
[#37]
If you tried wd or pb blaster and it isn't budging it's time for the hot blue wrench.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:09:42 PM EDT
[#38]
Heat, soak, heat, soak It will either come out or snap off. Once that happens.... left hand drill bit
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:11:11 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The blue wrench is your friend. Aye, the Blue Wrench. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:12:04 PM EDT
[#40]
Old school is milk of magnesia (sp), old timèr showed me that trick when trying to remove broken tie bars from 240 ton presses, takes a couple of days but it does wonders.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:17:59 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Get some form of penetrating oil. I like Kroil, personally, and have used it with success on 100+ year old rusted screws. This will work |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:56:54 PM EDT
[#42]
LOL at everyone recommending Kroil... The stuff is great, but 5-6 years ago when I had a bolt I didn't want to break I tried everything and had to order Kroil because I couldn't find it anywhere. The bolt still snapped even after putting Kroil on it for a few days and using heat (1st of 2 bolts snapped as soon as I put some force on it and I didn't want to drill out both, so I tried my hardest to not break the 2nd bolt). One day I was in my LGS and I saw a can of Kroil with all the other gun oils, so if you have trouble finding it locally, start calling your local LGSs.
Lots of great suggestions in here. My path is to use penetrating oil first and let soak for hours or overnight. Then smack it with a hammer so the vibrations can help knock it loose (don't hit threads or you'll damage them). If it still doesn't come off I move on to using heat which damn near always does the trick. If heat doesn't get it I'm usually stuck with either drilling out the bolt or using an easy out if I can. I haven't had much luck, but there are also a few freezing sprays you can use too. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 3:59:11 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Old school is milk of magnesia (sp), old timèr showed me that trick when trying to remove broken tie bars from 240 ton presses, takes a couple of days but it does wonders. Oil of wintergreen too... That shit smells so strong though, like 100 packs of Winterfresh gum. I'm pretty sure the good smell in Kroil probably comes from oil of wintergreen. 
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:01:42 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I love mine Rented one on the advice given here, I was pulling the head off of an old outboard. Worked so well I went out and bought one off Amazon. Now I'll probably never need one again.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:06:34 PM EDT
[#45]
like most have said penetrating oil I prefer Aero Kroil. let sit heat then tighten just a little with a breaker bar, it should then come off with a impact wrench.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:11:20 PM EDT
[#46]
Heat and beeswax
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:17:13 PM EDT
[#47]
Kroil is a miracle worker.
ETA post 87
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:18:30 PM EDT
[#48]
Breaker bar w/6' pipe.
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:24:02 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Preferably an Oxy-Acetylene torch with a fine tip to concentrate the heat where you want it. A propane torch may work for you but it's so-so at best. This. I stopped using Pblaster years ago. It works maybe 25%-50% of the time. The rest of the time the bolt head twists off or hex head rounds off. Straight to the oxy acetylene. Heat it cherry red, that breaks all rust. Comes out very easily then. If you hit it with the penetrating spray first, you have a flammable substance you just sprayed everywhere (brake cleaner or something to remove). |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 4:25:09 PM EDT
[#50]
Kroil. Let it soak overnight.
When you come back in the morning, the rusty bolt will be laying on the ground..
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