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something like this would be awesome! https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/318573/wowbikemotor-124052.JPG View Quote |
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What did you use for a bottom bracket crank set. I noticed that most of the bikes in the pictures are using the off the shelf single gear for cruiser bike. Would a Shimano FC-M552-L MTB crankset like this, fit on this frame? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
What did you use for a bottom bracket crank set. I noticed that most of the bikes in the pictures are using the off the shelf single gear for cruiser bike. Would a Shimano FC-M552-L MTB crankset like this, fit on this frame? My first one was just a cheap china girl kit I got off ebay that I bolted to an old Diamond Back mountain bike. So I used the OEM crank set and the standard "rag joint" sprocket mount on the left rear. I don't know what type of crank set those dedicated frames use. If you're going to run gears, you should look at the shifter kit from Sick Bike Parts. I also built one using a 50cc Huasheng 4-stroke and rear friction drive from That's Dax that worked surprisingly well. Basically it's like having a little weed whacker motor sitting on your rear rack, and when you want to go you just lower the bracket so the roller contacts the rear tire and you're off! (Note about Dax - His web page looks funky. That's because the entire business is just one guy named Duane who does all the work. The phone number he lists on the page is his personal number, which he answers. You can call him up and ask him questions. I've bought hundreds of dollars of stuff from him and never had a problem. Duane is a good guy.) My next project is a Manhattan Adult Trike with a Sick Bike shifter kit and Huasheng motor. Quoted:
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Generally we skip the fenders on motorized bikes. What happens over time is the vibration from the engine cracks the fenders and they break off. Traveling under power at 30+MPH and having your wheel eat a fender means you get launched over the bars. Seriously - fenders are killers. Was that plastic or metal? I got a rock in the shin from the front wheel. Being diabetic. I still have the mark from it two months later. That is why I was looking at fenders. Maybe I should be wearing two leg shields. On the other hand I just saved some money The standard metal bicycle fenders are the killers. It wasn't me, but I've read other stories on the MB boards about fender failures. Here's one - Another Fender Crash Story An excerpt: You've heard me and others preach about the hazards of running fenders on a motorized bike. I do use fenders, front and rear but I've always been extremely cautious about how they're mounted and diligent about checking them often for security. Nevertheless I'm setting here with my left leg in a temporary cast waiting for the swelling to go down so the docs can determine if I'll need surgery or not. I have a crack in the knee joint of my tibia, road rash on my foot and elbows and, It hurts! I have little recall as to what happened except that I was doing about 22 to 25 mph when I heard a loud metallic 'BANG' and in half a second I was sliding on the ground, the bike on my left leg and facing backwards from the direction I was going. The rear fender was laying in the street thirty feet behind where me and the bike came to rest. See photo. Obviously it was the culprit. [...] The crash happened so fast. One second I was riding, the next I was sliding on my side. Luckly traffic stopped and several good people helped me get the bike up and off the road and I called my wife who came a got me and the bike home then to the ER because she's a nurse and knew something bad was going on with my knee. She was right. So mount fenders at your own risk! |
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OK. Card board and rubber bands may be safer than buying fenders. I already am wearing a brace on my right knee for a torn PCL that cant be repaired. I dont want any more braces.
Transfer money for fenders and the Shimano crankset to buy the shifter kit that has the bottom crank kit in it. Just joined MBcom Misspelled my login name |
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I rode one around for an entire summer, just because. Groceries, trips to the hardware store, range, etc. http://www.jurai.net/~winter/mtb/img/_IMG_3244.JPG Was a hoot. View Quote I had a gallon of OJ and milk, two 24 pack water on the front of the bike, Both saddle bags with eggs bacon, top of the rear rack had assorted groceries with bread. Steering was down right dangerous. The bike wanted to tip over. But really. Lumber. Thats just nuts. |
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Just been looking at a new helmet with a shield. Lots to choose from. This may take a while.
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Found this video of a Shyjawk with a shufter kit.
Holy crap!! 55 MPH. Failed To Load Title |
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I have an old frame, Murray, or something like it. But I've been thinking about doing a Whizzer kit on it. Those ones in the pics were cool, but I like the retro cruiser frame. Your post is making it harder to resist. I got to many sticks in the fire now though. But I do want one one day. Maybe put one on this. 52 Schwinn https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/10418392_1037063129694876_4409701295995223379_n.jpg?oh=39ce823d9a5cb0f238962c31558e40c0&oe=5912CF2A View Quote Right off the bat you're going to need better brakes than just the rear coaster brake. Take a good look at original Whizzers to get ideas. |
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I have built a few choppers back in the 70's and early 80's...
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Motorized Bikes Disaster Builds Edition |
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I have watched quite a few videos in the paste 3 days. I found that these guys. Sinister Custom Cycle, Bike Berry, and Houstan Motorized have lots of info, and how to in their videos.
I am starting to lean towards the 4 stroke motors. Yes. The are bigger, heavier, and not as fast. But the ideas a cleaner fuel and having a oil reservoir for the motor is better for the motor. Also. You cant get special colors for the 4 stroke covers. While the 2 strokes do power the lights, I cant find any info if the 4 stroke also do generate a 12 volt output. I have looked at motors that are internally (Huasheng )belt drive. Motors that have a single chain on the inside are made cheaply. The Flying Horse has a double chain. I dont know what the Petrol has for a drive in the transmission, But the flying horse a about the same in price. Anyway. What ever engine that I get it is to dangerous to use the drive sprocket in the kits since you can destroy your spokes using it. There fore you need to buy another drive sprocket and a special clamp hub mount to not damage the sprocket. cost for the two $90 to 100. Its a better and safer investment. Time to hit the sack. I have been sick all weekend with the flu. I need to work tomorrow. |
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Holy fucking shit. If you are going to go through all these gyrations to get a motor, "shifter kit", gear set, huge saddlebags, heavy seat, more bags, special bars, lights, handlebar streamers, a little dinging bell, etc, just get a fucking REAL motorcycle for fucks sake.
Only thing missing in all these motorized bicycle bullshit photos is a skinny jeans wearing bearded hipster with a Starbucks in his manicured fingers. |
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Holy fucking shit. If you are going to go through all these gyrations to get a motor, "shifter kit", gear set, huge saddlebags, heavy seat, more bags, special bars, lights, handlebar streamers, a little dinging bell, etc, just get a fucking REAL motorcycle for fucks sake. Only thing missing in all these motorized bicycle bullshit photos is a skinny jeans wearing bearded hipster with a Starbucks in his manicured fingers. View Quote I'm the dirty jean type slob. Some people say that I invented the plumbers cleavage but I'm not that old. I was asked why I was building this. I responded by saying that this is to be my emergency transportation when I need to get parts for my truck. I figure on keeping it next to the spare tire. |
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OK. I broke down and ordered the Wheel set on Amazon. I wont give the location on Amazon since there are only 6 sets left and others that are I know that are interested a chance to buy. They started to sell fast. With spring just around the corner these could disappear fast. Other sites are selling the same wheels without tires for up to $250 a set.
Oh. BTW. They take 7 to 10 speed hub sets. If I cant have a front derailleur I can at least have some rear gears to ride with. So I ordered a 10 speed cassette and rear derailleur.There is a possibility that I can still have the front derailleur with a 3 sprocket set with the 4 stroke set up. Two stoke without the shifter set is a definite yes possibility. Bottom bracket set shafts can be order up to 10 inches long for the 2 or 4 stroke engine shifter setups that I saw in the videos. If so. That would give it a 30 speed bike with a gas engine. I going to flip the 7 Speed set that I bought to someone else at cost. Sifters for the derailleurs are on hold until I decide which of the three candidates that I choose for the handler bars. Height and arm length is the issue here. I maybe only 5 ft 8 inch in height but I have long arms. Example. I have a re-curve Bow. I draw 32 inch arrows. I bought it from a former Mr. NH body builder he could only draw 28" arrows with his arms. He is 6 ft 2 inch. OK. I have ape arms and frog type flippers for feet, and Canadian born. Neanderthals off have it better than me. My BCA Mountain bike handle bars feel too close to me. I can purchase longer stems to move it further away. Ordering a longer stem for my BCA could be in the future. Some want to build one with the Dummy tank ones for $69 but with no motor as a cruiser bike. These guys really do a great job painting there noisy cars. It will become a show bike or canvas piece that they can flip at flea markets. Even if its just the frame. There are plenty of donor bikes for them out there to build one cheap. |
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I built and rode an E-Bike all throughout grad school and my first year of work.
9-C hub motor, custom built motor controller, Cycle Analyst heads up display and LiPo batteries. It was/is a hoot. 45 MPH top speed with almost zero noise. It really freaked people out. I'd look here if you're really interested in E-Bikes. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/#start_here |
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You can find them if you look. I have a Huasheng 144F (53cc) with a lighting coil that I found on ebay a few years ago. Basically it's just a coil and you get AC out, so you need a rectifier/regulator off a moped to get 12VDC. That's the motor I'm planning on mounting in the trike. http://kcsbikes.com/pics/HSengines2.jpg View Quote The rectifier looks like the one on my tractors Kohler 25 HP motor Also for those winter crazy people I;ll keep this one out of the snow. Already wiped out with the BCA on ice. Convert your bike into a half track |
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I built and rode an E-Bike all throughout grad school and my first year of work. 9-C hub motor, custom built motor controller, Cycle Analyst heads up display and LiPo batteries. It was/is a hoot. 45 MPH top speed with almost zero noise. It really freaked people out. I'd look here if you're really interested in E-Bikes. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/#start_here View Quote Its the next best thing to two wheel drive in the woods. |
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Just got an email from Bike Berry/
There 4 stroke does put out 12 volts but it has a limited output when it come to lights by itself/ I only want it for charging sing I will have a battery on board somewhere on the bike. LED lighting should help for a lower draw on the system. I dont plan to ride all night. Just running lights during the daytime. |
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I have a friend who built an electric bike. It is stupid fast, ~35+ mph, and he is a BFF. He has these big fatass tires on it, lots of rolling resistance. It's an impressive build.
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I want a Motoped. It uses a 49cc pit bike motor. http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv219/Dredd308/motoped.jpg View Quote I like the Rotopax gas can. They are pricey and the mounts are separate. ETA Found out that these are starting at $2999. Bike Berrie was selling some at $3999 and are sold out. Must be ARFCOMERS buying them out. |
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Read and question before you buy. Otherwise you get what you paid for. Lower price could mean an older model.
Just got the frame today. Silver. Real solid lite frame. Meaning not polished but sanded aluminum only. OK. Thats what I expected. Clean and ready for paint. That should hold on to the paint. I was thinking of painting it blue and white or red and white. I like to know how that guy made a wood grain look on his. Before painting I need to test for leaks in the tank. It would be a waste of time to paint it now until I am sure. Seems to be more than one model/style and manufacturers with the 2.4L and 3.7L's. This one does not have a bracket for the disk caliper. You have to buy an adapter for since it is a bike for a single bracket brake rim. You know pedal backwards. But it does have the mounts for Cruiser and MTB style brakes. Should have read the description on the one. Other models have the caliper mounts. I ordered the rear brake conversion bracket for $20 Even though the description the wheel clearance on most of these being sold 5 1/2 inches. They neglected to state whether that is at the axle or tire clearance, some are saying wheel rather than axle only leaving it open on tire width. . This one did not have it. Looks like it is made for no bigger than 26x2.15 max. The 26x3 wheels set tires that I ordered wont get past the tabs the brake mounts. Again. Loos like different manufacturer. It could be why Bike Berrie sell only the 26x1.95 on there complete bikes. So far Frame $130 cheap deal Brake caliper conversion mount $20 Looks like the $159 Fat Tires wont fit this frame. But they will fit the triple tree fork. They should both be in tomorrow or Saturday . The description of the 26x3 Duro tires say they can mount on a 1.75 wide rim. This rim is designed for fat tire. It has no description of the actual rim width. If it does squeeze through the brake mounts it will only have an 1/8 leeway on both sides f the tire. Some of these fat tires are actually metric in size and under in SAE width description. I may just need to put the 2.5 inch wide tires and call it a day. Its like my MTB tires. My new aggressive tires are more wider than my old hybrid threads. |
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Some of these cost as much as a used dual sport. I want to get my hands on one though.
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IIRC: those size motors don't produce great trq and would be better served as a hybrid charger system for electric drive.
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This one does not have a bracket for the disk caliper. You have to buy an adapter for since it is a bike for a single bracket brake rim. You know pedal backwards. But it does have the mounts for Cruiser and MTB style brakes. Should have read the description on the one. Other models have the caliper mounts. I ordered the rear brake conversion bracket for $20 View Quote Generally motorized bikes don't use a rear disk brake because by far the most common configuration is with the engine drive sprocket on the left. So unless you pop for an expensive Sick Bike Parts shifter kit, you pretty much have to use clinchers on the rear. I'm worried that the OP's project is getting overly complicated. I've seen lots of these that get bogged down with details and expense and never get finished. I've seen new people get so tied up trying to change the spark timing on the motor or swapping carbs and pipes that they never get around to actually riding it. Personally my advice for anyone who wants to try out motorized bicycles is pick up a cheap 2-stroke motor kit like this, drag that old, unused bicycle out of the garage and bolt it on. You'll learn a whole lot about motorized bikes - what works, what doesn't, what to do, what not to do, how to fix them, keep them running, set up, etc. And if you decide that maybe it's not for you, then you're only out $100 and you can turn your Seriously, throwing something together cheap and riding it is the best education in motorized bicycles you'll ever get. Don't over think it. |
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I want a Motoped. It uses a 49cc pit bike motor. http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv219/Dredd308/motoped.jpg View Quote Came here to post this. |
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I want a Motoped. It uses a 49cc pit bike motor. http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv219/Dredd308/motoped.jpg View Quote If it came with a 100+cc motor and was 1K cheaper I would be in. 6K for that is a bit much. |
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