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I assume those are NPT threads (not a conical seat type) on that fitting? If they are NPT threads, they need teflon tape.
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you need to use teflon tape, or other similar thread sealer. Pipe threads won't hold without it most times
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Whats the end of the fitting look like? Is it supposed to have an o ring? Most new style hydro lines i know just have a flare that does the sealing , and the threads just hold it tight, so something isnt seating. Tape and dope wont do shit on a hydraulic line.
Edit, Guess i should ask if its the high or low side, low might just need taped, but judging by the crimp it is a high pressure line. |
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Got any pics of the end if the hose / inside if the quick disconnect?
Lots of different kinds of seals out there. |
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You must use teflon tape on stainless. At least 5 full wraps clock wise on to the male threads.
Edit: actually on second look those might be straight threads. Take apart and lets see the threads. |
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With hydraulic fitting there are 2 basic types used in those types of applications- one is an o-ring style, which a pretty easy fix just replace the o ring and torque. Or JIC is will have a flare at the tip of fitting and requires no o ring. If it continues to leak consider bringing the hose to a local shop and getting a new one made, could be a bad crimp that's causing the leak.
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You need to confirm that you have NPT or NPS threads. It looks like NPS on the male portion in your pic, if the female is NPT you will need lots of dope on that fitting or it will always leak.
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Are you hooking this up for a friend? I only ask as it seems alittle off that you would have your own a two post lift and can't fix a hydro leak.
Tef tape Pipe dope Reflare the hose end Depends on the fitting. |
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you need to use teflon tape, or other similar thread sealer. Pipe threads won't hold without it most times View Quote Oddly enough, it has 4x of these quick couplings, and none have any type of sealant....and only this one is leaking. I'm 99% sure its just a standard pipe-style thread, its tapered with relatively coarse threading (and no O-ring). |
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Quoted:
Oddly enough, it has 4x of these quick couplings, and none have any type of sealant....and only this one is leaking. I'm 99% sure its just a standard pipe-style thread, its tapered with relatively coarse threading (and no O-ring). View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
you need to use teflon tape, or other similar thread sealer. Pipe threads won't hold without it most times Oddly enough, it has 4x of these quick couplings, and none have any type of sealant....and only this one is leaking. I'm 99% sure its just a standard pipe-style thread, its tapered with relatively coarse threading (and no O-ring). Teflon tape. That is the real answer. |
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Are you hooking this up for a friend? I only ask as it seems alittle off that you would have your own a two post lift and can't fix a hydro leak. View Quote Ok, I deserve that... I tried researching it, but most everything I found suggested you don't need any type of sealant for hydraulic lines....normally, I would teflon it and call it a day, but kind of need this not to fail. |
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I desagree using Teflon tape. Just too easy to contaminate the valves. I would use Permatex #2 or equivalent.
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Boss thread looks alot like npt, but has a champfer for an o-ring. The is such a thing as British pipe thread also.
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And tighten the shit out of it. View Quote I can tell you that it was pretty damned tight when I disassembled it, had to use an additional box end wrench as leverage on the 22mm flare wrench just to break it loose. |
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That female looks like it would be shallow, are you sure the male isn't hitting bottom?
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Pipe dope.
Or blue Teflon tape. Have probably a few hundred miles of pipe in the field threaded together like that. All oil or air dispensing. Along with thousands of those types of fittings. |
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It appears to be taped on the other end of the connection so there's your answer.
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Quoted:
That female looks like it would be shallow, are you sure the male isn't hitting bottom? View Quote This is your answer if everything is tight. Lots of hydraulic guys are moving away from tape due to contamination issues. What we learned in school was the tape or dope was used to help the threads slide together and the actual sealing was done by the threads not the tape/dope. Get a new qd and a new hose made. |
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Quoted: I just finished installing a MaxJax 2-post lift, and have a small leak where the hydraulic hose fitting threads into the quick coupling. At first, I tried tightening to make sure it wasn't simply loose....no dice. Disassembled the fitting, cleaned and checked the threads, and lubed with a little ATF. Reassembled and tightened, but still have a leak. Looks to be a standard pipe style thread, but not sure what my options are on sealing the leak. I couldn't find any damage to the threads, any suggestions? http://i.imgur.com/P7VlbvH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/eb4LuUP.jpg View Quote |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I desagree using Teflon tape. Just too easy to contaminate the valves. I would use Permatex #2 or equivalent. This guy is correct. Or Loctite 565. Loctite thread sealant FTW. I use 567 everywhere on air/gas instrument systems. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Quoted:
Remove, clean, dope or tape, reassemble. View Quote This, exactly. Tapered pipe threads need sealer. ETA: looking closer at your picture, you may have straight pipe threads on the male - the female on the quick coupler should be tapered. If this is the case you may never get it to seal properly without the correct male fitting. |
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Quoted: Loctite thread sealant FTW. I use 567 everywhere on air/gas instrument systems. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I desagree using Teflon tape. Just too easy to contaminate the valves. I would use Permatex #2 or equivalent. This guy is correct. Or Loctite 565. Loctite thread sealant FTW. I use 567 everywhere on air/gas instrument systems. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Quoted: Oddly enough, it has 4x of these quick couplings, and none have any type of sealant....and only this one is leaking. I'm 99% sure its just a standard pipe-style thread, its tapered with relatively coarse threading (and no O-ring). View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: you need to use teflon tape, or other similar thread sealer. Pipe threads won't hold without it most times Oddly enough, it has 4x of these quick couplings, and none have any type of sealant....and only this one is leaking. I'm 99% sure its just a standard pipe-style thread, its tapered with relatively coarse threading (and no O-ring). Machinery's calls out 3/8" engagement for 1/4 NPT and 3/8 NPT |
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Vibra-tite. Or locktite. Avoid PTFE tape or dope on hydraulic fittings.
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View Quote I'd love to use this, but its not available locally (and will require ordering). I can get Permatex thread sealant with PTFE locally, any reason it wouldn't work just as well? Permatex |
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As I mentioned upthread, there is a minimum length of thread engagement (3/8" for 1/4 NPT) required to make a non-leaking seal on tapered pipe threads - measure from the end of the male fitting up 3/8" and make a mark with a Sharpie. Tighten to at least that mark, otherwise it will leak regardless of whether or not you use thread sealant.
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That quick connect doesn't look like it was meant for that end fitting and the end fitting looks galled now.
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That quick connect doesn't look like it was meant for that end fitting View Quote The lift uses two sets of hydraulic hoses with a total of 4x quick-connects...and they all look exactly the same. Only difference is this particular one has a slight leak. |
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As I mentioned upthread, there is a minimum length of thread engagement (3/8" for 1/4 NPT) required to make a non-leaking seal on tapered pipe threads - measure from the end of the male fitting up 3/8" and make a mark with a Sharpie. Tighten to at least that mark, otherwise it will leak regardless of whether or not you use thread sealant. View Quote I compared the thread engagement on the leaking fitting with the other 3x, and it looks to be threaded just as deeply. |
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The lift uses two sets of hydraulic hoses with a total of 4x quick-connects...and they all look exactly the same. Only difference is this particular one has a slight leak. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
That quick connect doesn't look like it was meant for that end fitting The lift uses two sets of hydraulic hoses with a total of 4x quick-connects...and they all look exactly the same. Only difference is this particular one has a slight leak. Out of curiosity and the fact I own 4 lifts, 3 above ground and 1 in ground. Why does it have QD fittings to begin with? None of mine do. At all. QD fittings will be and always be your weak point. Even my excavators are all hard plumbed to the thumbs. I ripped the QD fittings off as they're always the weak point. Look up your local pipe supplier. They should sell good pipe dope. (Yes you will have a pipe supplier in town.) |
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Why does it have QD fittings to begin with? View Quote One of the big selling points for the MaxJax lift is portability, and the ability to unbolt it and move it out of the way. Its really designed for small garages with limited height ceilings, hence the 48" lift height and casters on the back of the columns. The idea is to only bolt in place when you need it, otherwise you just unhook the lines and roll everything out of the way. I do like this option, as it gives me extra room if I want to work on my boat or my F550 in the shop. |
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Quoted:
One of the big selling points for the MaxJax lift is portability, and the ability to unbolt it and move it out of the way. Its really designed for small garages with limited height ceilings, hence the 48" lift height and casters on the back of the columns. The idea is to only bolt in place when you need it, otherwise you just unhook the lines and roll everything out of the way. I do like this option, as it gives me extra room if I want to work on my boat or my F550 in the shop. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Why does it have QD fittings to begin with? One of the big selling points for the MaxJax lift is portability, and the ability to unbolt it and move it out of the way. Its really designed for small garages with limited height ceilings, hence the 48" lift height and casters on the back of the columns. The idea is to only bolt in place when you need it, otherwise you just unhook the lines and roll everything out of the way. I do like this option, as it gives me extra room if I want to work on my boat or my F550 in the shop. Chances are you have a bad QD fittings, as the once I've had are typically made in India and junk. Other wise, some how the threads on the hose side got messed up. I'd still put pipe dope on all the threads. Beyond that. Would it really take you that much longer to unthread a section of hose? Direct thread, in my opinion is always more secure then QD fittings. |
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Beyond that. Would it really take you that much longer to unthread a section of hose? Direct thread, in my opinion is always more secure then QD fittings. View Quote Probably not, and this may be what I eventually do once I run the lines overhead. For now, though, I need to try and get this one to work...I need to actually "use" the lift a few times to make sure where I want to mount the pump, run the lines, etc... |
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