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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:27:23 PM EDT
I just finished installing a MaxJax 2-post lift, and have a small leak where the hydraulic hose fitting threads into the quick coupling. At first, I tried tightening to make sure it wasn't simply loose....no dice. Disassembled the fitting, cleaned and checked the threads, and lubed with a little ATF. Reassembled and tightened, but still have a leak. Looks to be a standard pipe style thread, but not sure what my options are on sealing the leak. I couldn't find any damage to the threads, any suggestions?
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:30:07 PM EDT
[#1]
Remove, clean, dope or tape, reassemble.
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:31:12 PM EDT
[#2]
I assume those are NPT threads (not a conical seat type) on that fitting? If they are NPT threads, they need teflon tape.
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:31:35 PM EDT
[#3]
you need to use teflon tape, or other similar thread sealer. Pipe threads won't hold without it most times
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:32:22 PM EDT
[#4]
Whats the end of the fitting look like? Is it supposed to have an o ring? Most new style hydro lines i know just have a flare that does the sealing , and the threads just hold it tight, so something isnt seating. Tape and dope wont do shit on a hydraulic line.
Edit, Guess i should ask if its the high or low side, low might just need taped, but judging by the crimp it is a high pressure line. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:32:41 PM EDT
[#5]
Got any pics of the end if the hose / inside if the quick disconnect?
Lots of different kinds of seals out there. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:33:04 PM EDT
[#6]
You must use teflon tape on stainless. At least 5 full wraps clock wise on to the male threads.
Edit: actually on second look those might be straight threads. Take apart and lets see the threads. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:34:16 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You must use teflon tape on stainless. At least 5 full wraps clock wise on to the male threads. You guys must use different types of stainless in Kali 
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:35:35 PM EDT
[#8]
With hydraulic fitting there are 2 basic types used in those types of applications- one is an o-ring style, which a pretty easy fix just replace the o ring and torque. Or JIC is will have a flare at the tip of fitting and requires no o ring. If it continues to leak consider bringing the hose to a local shop and getting a new one made, could be a bad crimp that's causing the leak.
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:37:47 PM EDT
[#9]
You need to confirm that you have NPT or NPS threads. It looks like NPS on the male portion in your pic, if the female is NPT you will need lots of dope on that fitting or it will always leak.
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:39:11 PM EDT
[#10]
Are you hooking this up for a friend? I only ask as it seems alittle off that you would have your own a two post lift and can't fix a hydro leak.
Tef tape Pipe dope Reflare the hose end Depends on the fitting. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:42:35 PM EDT
[#11]
Double tap
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:49:41 PM EDT
[#12]
you need to use teflon tape, or other similar thread sealer. Pipe threads won't hold without it most times Oddly enough, it has 4x of these quick couplings, and none have any type of sealant....and only this one is leaking. I'm 99% sure its just a standard pipe-style thread, its tapered with relatively coarse threading (and no O-ring). |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:50:13 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you need to use teflon tape, or other similar thread sealer. Pipe threads won't hold without it most times |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:55:52 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Oddly enough, it has 4x of these quick couplings, and none have any type of sealant....and only this one is leaking. I'm 99% sure its just a standard pipe-style thread, its tapered with relatively coarse threading (and no O-ring). Quote HistoryQuoted:
you need to use teflon tape, or other similar thread sealer. Pipe threads won't hold without it most times Oddly enough, it has 4x of these quick couplings, and none have any type of sealant....and only this one is leaking. I'm 99% sure its just a standard pipe-style thread, its tapered with relatively coarse threading (and no O-ring). Teflon tape. That is the real answer. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:57:55 PM EDT
[#15]
Are you hooking this up for a friend? I only ask as it seems alittle off that you would have your own a two post lift and can't fix a hydro leak. Ok, I deserve that...
I tried researching it, but most everything I found suggested you don't need any type of sealant for hydraulic lines....normally, I would teflon it and call it a day, but kind of need this not to fail. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 10:58:23 PM EDT
[#16]
I desagree using Teflon tape. Just too easy to contaminate the valves. I would use Permatex #2 or equivalent.
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:00:20 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I desagree using Teflon tape. Just too easy to contaminate the valves. I would use Permatex #2 or equivalent. The few threads I did find that suggested teflon tape specifically stated to start the wrap at least two threads down, just to prevent any contamination. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:02:08 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Remove, clean, dope or tape, reassemble. And tighten the shit out of it. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:09:00 PM EDT
[#19]
Boss thread looks alot like npt, but has a champfer for an o-ring. The is such a thing as British pipe thread also.
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:15:49 PM EDT
[#20]
And tighten the shit out of it. I can tell you that it was pretty damned tight when I disassembled it, had to use an additional box end wrench as leverage on the 22mm flare wrench just to break it loose. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:19:58 PM EDT
[#21]
That female looks like it would be shallow, are you sure the male isn't hitting bottom?
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:25:56 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That female looks like it would be shallow, are you sure the male isn't hitting bottom? Not sure, I'll have to disassemble again and take a few pics/measurements...I don't *think* it is. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:25:59 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That female looks like it would be shallow, are you sure the male isn't hitting bottom? Looks that way. Tapered pipe threads won't seal if it is. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:31:18 PM EDT
[#24]
Teflon tape.
Wrapped in the correct direction. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:31:36 PM EDT
[#25]
Pipe dope.
Or blue Teflon tape. Have probably a few hundred miles of pipe in the field threaded together like that. All oil or air dispensing. Along with thousands of those types of fittings. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:36:12 PM EDT
[#26]
It appears to be taped on the other end of the connection so there's your answer.
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:36:35 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That female looks like it would be shallow, are you sure the male isn't hitting bottom? This is your answer if everything is tight. Lots of hydraulic guys are moving away from tape due to contamination issues. What we learned in school was the tape or dope was used to help the threads slide together and the actual sealing was done by the threads not the tape/dope. Get a new qd and a new hose made. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:40:14 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I desagree using Teflon tape. Just too easy to contaminate the valves. I would use Permatex #2 or equivalent. This guy is correct. Or Loctite 565. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:46:56 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It appears to be taped on the other end of the connection so there's your answer. All the fittings at the pump itself are taped, as well as the fittings connecting to the hydraulic cylinders, but everything on the individual hydraulic tubes themselves are "dry". |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:47:12 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I desagree using Teflon tape. Just too easy to contaminate the valves. I would use Permatex #2 or equivalent. You start on the second thread back--assuming it is NPT. |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:51:14 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted: I just finished installing a MaxJax 2-post lift, and have a small leak where the hydraulic hose fitting threads into the quick coupling. At first, I tried tightening to make sure it wasn't simply loose....no dice. Disassembled the fitting, cleaned and checked the threads, and lubed with a little ATF. Reassembled and tightened, but still have a leak. Looks to be a standard pipe style thread, but not sure what my options are on sealing the leak. I couldn't find any damage to the threads, any suggestions? http://i.imgur.com/P7VlbvH.jpg http://i.imgur.com/eb4LuUP.jpg |
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Posted: 6/22/2016 11:56:24 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This guy is correct. Or Loctite 565. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I desagree using Teflon tape. Just too easy to contaminate the valves. I would use Permatex #2 or equivalent. This guy is correct. Or Loctite 565. Loctite thread sealant FTW. I use 567 everywhere on air/gas instrument systems. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 6/23/2016 12:00:15 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Remove, clean, dope or tape, reassemble. This, exactly. Tapered pipe threads need sealer. ETA: looking closer at your picture, you may have straight pipe threads on the male - the female on the quick coupler should be tapered. If this is the case you may never get it to seal properly without the correct male fitting. |
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Posted: 6/23/2016 12:05:15 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Loctite thread sealant FTW. I use 567 everywhere on air/gas instrument systems. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I desagree using Teflon tape. Just too easy to contaminate the valves. I would use Permatex #2 or equivalent. This guy is correct. Or Loctite 565. Loctite thread sealant FTW. I use 567 everywhere on air/gas instrument systems. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 6/23/2016 12:05:41 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Oddly enough, it has 4x of these quick couplings, and none have any type of sealant....and only this one is leaking. I'm 99% sure its just a standard pipe-style thread, its tapered with relatively coarse threading (and no O-ring). Quote HistoryQuoted: you need to use teflon tape, or other similar thread sealer. Pipe threads won't hold without it most times Oddly enough, it has 4x of these quick couplings, and none have any type of sealant....and only this one is leaking. I'm 99% sure its just a standard pipe-style thread, its tapered with relatively coarse threading (and no O-ring). Machinery's calls out 3/8" engagement for 1/4 NPT and 3/8 NPT |
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Posted: 6/23/2016 12:06:26 AM EDT
[#36]
fpni
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Posted: 6/23/2016 12:12:12 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That female looks like it would be shallow, are you sure the male isn't hitting bottom? Story of my life, man. Story of my life. |
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Posted: 6/23/2016 12:16:51 AM EDT
[#38]
Vibra-tite. Or locktite. Avoid PTFE tape or dope on hydraulic fittings.
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Posted: 6/23/2016 12:24:55 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Story of my life, man. Story of my life. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
That female looks like it would be shallow, are you sure the male isn't hitting bottom? Story of my life, man. Story of my life. First post AND THIS GUY NAILS IT !!! 
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Posted: 6/24/2016 9:17:40 PM EDT
[#40]
Ok, here are some better pics of the coupling and threads...
This is a pic of the coupling on the other end of the hose, which doesn't leak. 
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Posted: 6/24/2016 9:31:41 PM EDT
[#41]
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Posted: 6/24/2016 9:49:38 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryI'd love to use this, but its not available locally (and will require ordering). I can get Permatex thread sealant with PTFE locally, any reason it wouldn't work just as well? Permatex |
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Posted: 6/24/2016 11:10:39 PM EDT
[#43]
As I mentioned upthread, there is a minimum length of thread engagement (3/8" for 1/4 NPT) required to make a non-leaking seal on tapered pipe threads - measure from the end of the male fitting up 3/8" and make a mark with a Sharpie. Tighten to at least that mark, otherwise it will leak regardless of whether or not you use thread sealant.
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Posted: 6/24/2016 11:29:52 PM EDT
[#44]
That quick connect doesn't look like it was meant for that end fitting and the end fitting looks galled now.
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Posted: 6/24/2016 11:33:14 PM EDT
[#45]
That quick connect doesn't look like it was meant for that end fitting The lift uses two sets of hydraulic hoses with a total of 4x quick-connects...and they all look exactly the same. Only difference is this particular one has a slight leak. |
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Posted: 6/24/2016 11:35:07 PM EDT
[#46]
As I mentioned upthread, there is a minimum length of thread engagement (3/8" for 1/4 NPT) required to make a non-leaking seal on tapered pipe threads - measure from the end of the male fitting up 3/8" and make a mark with a Sharpie. Tighten to at least that mark, otherwise it will leak regardless of whether or not you use thread sealant. I compared the thread engagement on the leaking fitting with the other 3x, and it looks to be threaded just as deeply. |
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Posted: 6/24/2016 11:37:49 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The lift uses two sets of hydraulic hoses with a total of 4x quick-connects...and they all look exactly the same. Only difference is this particular one has a slight leak. Quote HistoryQuoted:
That quick connect doesn't look like it was meant for that end fitting The lift uses two sets of hydraulic hoses with a total of 4x quick-connects...and they all look exactly the same. Only difference is this particular one has a slight leak. Out of curiosity and the fact I own 4 lifts, 3 above ground and 1 in ground. Why does it have QD fittings to begin with? None of mine do. At all. QD fittings will be and always be your weak point. Even my excavators are all hard plumbed to the thumbs. I ripped the QD fittings off as they're always the weak point. Look up your local pipe supplier. They should sell good pipe dope. (Yes you will have a pipe supplier in town.) |
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Posted: 6/24/2016 11:48:17 PM EDT
[#48]
Why does it have QD fittings to begin with? One of the big selling points for the MaxJax lift is portability, and the ability to unbolt it and move it out of the way. Its really designed for small garages with limited height ceilings, hence the 48" lift height and casters on the back of the columns. The idea is to only bolt in place when you need it, otherwise you just unhook the lines and roll everything out of the way. I do like this option, as it gives me extra room if I want to work on my boat or my F550 in the shop. |
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Posted: 6/24/2016 11:52:11 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
One of the big selling points for the MaxJax lift is portability, and the ability to unbolt it and move it out of the way. Its really designed for small garages with limited height ceilings, hence the 48" lift height and casters on the back of the columns. The idea is to only bolt in place when you need it, otherwise you just unhook the lines and roll everything out of the way. I do like this option, as it gives me extra room if I want to work on my boat or my F550 in the shop. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why does it have QD fittings to begin with? One of the big selling points for the MaxJax lift is portability, and the ability to unbolt it and move it out of the way. Its really designed for small garages with limited height ceilings, hence the 48" lift height and casters on the back of the columns. The idea is to only bolt in place when you need it, otherwise you just unhook the lines and roll everything out of the way. I do like this option, as it gives me extra room if I want to work on my boat or my F550 in the shop. Chances are you have a bad QD fittings, as the once I've had are typically made in India and junk. Other wise, some how the threads on the hose side got messed up. I'd still put pipe dope on all the threads. Beyond that. Would it really take you that much longer to unthread a section of hose? Direct thread, in my opinion is always more secure then QD fittings. |
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Posted: 6/24/2016 11:56:09 PM EDT
[#50]
Beyond that. Would it really take you that much longer to unthread a section of hose? Direct thread, in my opinion is always more secure then QD fittings. Probably not, and this may be what I eventually do once I run the lines overhead. For now, though, I need to try and get this one to work...I need to actually "use" the lift a few times to make sure where I want to mount the pump, run the lines, etc... |
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