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If you lived in Oklahoma, I'd make you come over ASAP and we'd have that bad boy looking like new! Try to find a local to help you out. A lot of shooters have great shops just for their hobby and would love to help!
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I would bet 100% of the main parts are totally salvable.
All the bits and springs ect will need replacing but keep rebuild better than new! |
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It would undoubtedly fire the first shot. Cycling is a bit questionable. A few minutes with the rough side of a sponge and some oil, it'd probably cycle halfway decently. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I would shoot it as is right now,no question about it after seeing the top cover removed It would undoubtedly fire the first shot. Cycling is a bit questionable. A few minutes with the rough side of a sponge and some oil, it'd probably cycle halfway decently. So just like new then eh? |
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Perfect opportunity, btw, to have that thing stripped and chromed. Go bling, amirite?
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Tie a knot in your boot lace, dip in motor oil, run through bore, shoot rifle.
Kharn Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Have not read whole thread. OP so sorry for your loss. Look into this product
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Evapo-Rust-Super-Safe-Rust-Remover-Gallon/48810395?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228037674623&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=80431885129&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=177671625409&veh=sem |
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Sand or bead blast it and see what you've got!
You can always replace the FCG and small parts...or buy parts from APEX |
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OP, can you start a poll?
I vote leave the rust, add paki tape! |
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Search the ak files forum for nodak spud rust issues. May be a sticky in the build it yourself section. Many of us have had to clean up AK builds.
Get a gallon of evaporust. Disassemble and soak in evaporust overnight. Scrub with a wire brush, rinse, then boil the gun on the stovetop. Blow dry with compressed air. Keep repeating this a few times until you stop seeing rust permeating from the receiver during the boiling. Blow dry again on the last run, then bake the gun in the oven at low temp to take care of any residual water. It's a lot easier than it may sound. Pay special attention to around the rails, center support, rivets and trunnions. The flat surfaces will be the easiest to clean, the boil will help pull rust out of the tight places. Best thing to do then is get the gun parkerized, then top coated with whatever you prefer. Keep it well oiled/ greased from then on. I think that will be an easy clean up. The rust looks particularly bad on the bolt carrier because it's not painted, but it should clean up OK. Feel free to just replace as much of the internals as you see fit, but keep in mind the bolt itself is keeping your headspace. Changing bolts may throw your headspace out of check. I personally would disassemble, clean and rebuild the bolt with new internals. Change out the fire control group for an ALG, which is cheap and much better anyways. Change the shepherds hook spring for one of the retaining plates. The internals will be a piece of cake and replacement parts are cheap. I very optimistic about cleaning it up, mainly because your plastic pistol grip is completely in tact and not at all melted. My only concern is inside the barrel. Clean the shit out of it, including the gas port during the rust removal process. Your barrel is not chrome lined, but may clean up and shoot just fine. Keep in mind these guns don't have the greatest accuracy to begin with. You will know the AK intamitely by the time this is done. Treat it like a sledge hammer rather than some sort of precision instrument, and you will understand that none of this is rocket science. Edit: actually, looking at your pictures again, the bolt barely looks rusted and probably just needs disassembly and good cleaning along with the other parts. Maybe new ejector spring, but that may not even be rusted. |
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My handguards are plenty ugly, and I suspect they'll get worse before this is all over with People are saying to try scrubbing the rust off and shooting it, that seems easy and cheap. It's storming like crazy here now, but whenever it dries up a bit, I'll take it outside and give it a good scrub down. I'll also bring non potato pictures and whatnot back with me. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
My handguards are plenty ugly, and I suspect they'll get worse before this is all over with People are saying to try scrubbing the rust off and shooting it, that seems easy and cheap. It's storming like crazy here now, but whenever it dries up a bit, I'll take it outside and give it a good scrub down. I'll also bring non potato pictures and whatnot back with me. Seriously, hose it down with wd40. Get it wet with oil ASAP. |
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I hope this gets moved to the AK tech section before it sinks into the GD abyss.
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Sorry, Zack, but someone's got to say it- those are the worst pics you have ever put up on GD.
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If the bore is good, wrap a piece of fine steel wool around a cleaning rod, spray with kroil and scrub, blast the rest of it with #80 alumox cerakote and change out the springs and possibly the bolt if the heat treat is fucked and you will be gtg. Another option is to buy a pap pistol and strip your sbr and cerakote the rr and use the rest as donor parts from the pap assuming the parts interchange.
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what do the bolt fact, firing pin, chamber and bore look like? the only thing that looks like it has bad rust on it is the charging handle...
If it was my gun I would spray it down with wd40/kerosene mix wire brush everything and wipe it all down smooth. after that I would look at MAYBE replacing the fire control group (if it was gritty), stock (cosmetic) and dust cover (cosmetic). I am surprised the bolt/bcg wasnt chrome plated. the receiver and wood dont look bad. you should be ok. |
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This gives us all hope that your MAC can be saved... Have you found that one yet?
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I'm pretty sure I have the correct Yugo cone flash hider for it. If that would help then IM me your mailing address.
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Sorry, Zack, but someone's got to say it- those are the worst pics you have ever put up on GD. View Quote I am not complaining. I was working most of the morning in the house. Tired, hungry, and shaky. There's no power so it was dark, too. Phone isn't the best tool for the job obviously but in that situation there's not much to be done. |
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I bet it will be just fine. try some electrolysis, replace spring and have someone competent check it out.
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Please don't refinish it! That gun now has a lot of character that can't be purchased! Clean it up and post pics!
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We can rebuild it, we can make it better, stronger, faster. http://static.wixstatic.com/media/ff562f_9dddd04facbdc187cae6b3d650e4275b.jpg Dont just fix it polish the entire thing :) View Quote Gold plate? |
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I vote you do just enough to get it running safe and reliable and call it good. That's not damage, it's "patina" and AKs just look damn cool the more distressed they look.
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Imho I would clean up the bolt, carrier, bore, and replace the springs and trigger and call it good. That things got character.
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Happen to have a Yugo underfolder safety/selector? That's the only part I'm missing from my M92 SBR project View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I've got a brand new m92 I'm sbr'ing, if you need any of the take off parts I have let me know. Grip, hand guard set, trigger, recoil spring, (think that's it for now.) Free and free shipping. Happen to have a Yugo underfolder safety/selector? That's the only part I'm missing from my M92 SBR project I have been looking for a Yugo underfolder stock assembly for a while now and have not had any luck. It sucks that parts for the M92's have all but dried up. |
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I agree rust doesnt look bad, drop it in the bucket with the electric stuff, should be just fine
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If the hammer spring still had tension, I'm betting that the gun is fine. soak it down with oil, wipe it with a rag and shoot it until hot. rinse, repeat.
I wouldn't try to restore it. It's gonna be the coolest looking AK on the site if you just wipe the rust and give it a good scrubbing. Most of that is surface, or minimal etching. The receiver rails look good. If you want to dump it, I'll give you treefitty. |
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Also check out Evaporust. That stuff is EASY to use, cheap and works wonders. View Quote This - buy a gal of it and let that thing soak. Then be proud of the patina you have on your Afghan battlefield pickup clone. And yes I saw ones that were as bad as this one in Afghanistan and they would go boom when needed. |
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Depends on how much time you have.
You can wire wheel, wire brush, emery paper the whole thing and finish or have someone glass bead blast it. Use a "thick" coating...probably brownells baking coatings that will fill in surface defects. I vote for bead blast...so much better results and you won't be dealing with sanding, rinsing, rust, stink, rags, and hard to get areas. |
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I have been looking for a Yugo underfolder stock assembly for a while now and have not had any luck. It sucks that parts for the M92's have all but dried up. View Quote When they were available I managed to snag an underfolding stock assembly but totally spaced on the selector...now the selector is unobtanium |
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Just saw this. Tell me that you can save the stamped part, and rebuild around it...
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Quoted: I got an IM from a guy that is a SOT who offered to fix it up. I'm exploring other options, but I suspect he'll end up getting the gun. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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