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If you don't mind carbon steel, you can't hardly go wrong with CCK, they have thin vegetable knives to thick bone choppers. http://www.chefknivestogo.com/cckcleavers.html I'm not affiliated with him, but Mark is great to deal with. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Anyone making a good cleaver anymore. If you don't mind carbon steel, you can't hardly go wrong with CCK, they have thin vegetable knives to thick bone choppers. http://www.chefknivestogo.com/cckcleavers.html I'm not affiliated with him, but Mark is great to deal with. I prefer good carbon steel. |
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Anyone making a good cleaver anymore. If you don't mind carbon steel, you can't hardly go wrong with CCK, they have thin vegetable knives to thick bone choppers. http://www.chefknivestogo.com/cckcleavers.html I'm not affiliated with him, but Mark is great to deal with. I prefer good carbon steel. Link fixed. |
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My Granddad made this one I suspect in the 1920s. All of Grandma's kitchen knives were handmade. It was made from a crosscut saw blade. I was lucky to snag this one that was left in the smoke-house. My Aunts got the rest. Still going strong. http://oi62.tinypic.com/smdcnt.jpg I kinda feel sorry for you folks that have to use all store bought stuff....No meaning or warmth to them at all. View Quote So how do you chop without a heel? |
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Generally speaking:
European/German blades (Wusthoff, Henckels) have heavier (thicker) blades and softer steel. Japanese blades (MAC, Shun, Tojiro) have lighter, harder blades. U.S. blades (Chicago Cutlery) are more like Ze Germans. I have and use all the above brands at home, but have moved away from the Euro blades over the years. At work, however, I still use my 15-year-old slightly modified Sabatier 12" ham slicer and 5-year-old modified Dexter boning knife every day. They all have advantages and disadvantages, which is why buying a single-brand knife set is sub-optimal. The most important knife in the block is not a knife: it's the steel. Every knife set I've ever seen gives you the smallest, shittiest steel they can get away with. Do yourself a huge favor and throw that little toy in the trash (or make a main gauche out of it), buy the biggest steel you can find, and learn how to properly steel your knives. There are numerous tutorials online. If you don't / won't learn to steel correctly, you might as well buy the cheapest serrated knife you can find at the Dollar Store. It will "cut" (actually shred) things longer than the best "good" knife that has been dulled by mistreatment, and save you a fortune. Or, you could exponentially compound the waste of money and buy the Cutco serrated "knives", which simply tear and shred their way through food just like the Dollar Store knife, but cost more than a good knife. Only 2 knives should be serrated: bread and tomato. And get a wood or hard rubber cutting board. Polypro is second best. Everything else is evil, as in Hillary Clinton/George Soros/Satan/Cthulhu evil. |
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Generally speaking: European/German blades (Wusthoff, Henckels) have heavier (thicker) blades and softer steel. Japanese blades (MAC, Shun, Tojiro) have lighter, harder blades. U.S. blades (Chicago Cutlery) are more like Ze Germans. I have and use all the above brands at home, but have moved away from the Euro blades over the years. At work, however, I still use my 15-year-old slightly modified Sabatier 12" ham slicer and 5-year-old modified Dexter boning knife every day. They all have advantages and disadvantages, which is why buying a single-brand knife set is sub-optimal. The most important knife in the block is not a knife: it's the steel. Every knife set I've ever seen gives you the smallest, shittiest steel they can get away with. Do yourself a huge favor and throw that little toy in the trash (or make a main gauche out of it), buy the biggest steel you can find, and learn how to properly steel your knives. There are numerous tutorials online. If you don't / won't learn to steel correctly, you might as well buy the cheapest serrated knife you can find at the Dollar Store. It will "cut" (actually shred) things longer than the best "good" knife that has been dulled by mistreatment, and save you a fortune. Or, you could exponentially compound the waste of money and buy the Cutco serrated "knives", which simply tear and shred their way through food just like the Dollar Store knife, but cost more than a good knife. Only 2 knives should be serrated: bread and tomato. And get a wood or hard rubber cutting board. Polypro is second best. Everything else is evil, as in Hillary Clinton/George Soros/Satan/Cthulhu evil. View Quote I don't even own a steel. I've seen many say not to use a steel on the Japanese blades. |
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Wusthof 6" boning knife. I use it for nearly everything in the kitchen and it's great for butchering deer. Takes a good edge that holds well and I can touch it up in about ten seconds on my Spyderco Sharpmaker. Takes a better edge and that edge lasts longer than the Henckels I was using before.
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I don't even own a steel. I've seen many say not to use a steel on the Japanese blades. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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<snip> The most important knife in the block is not a knife: it's the steel. Every knife set I've ever seen gives you the smallest, shittiest steel they can get away with. Do yourself a huge favor and throw that little toy in the trash (or make a main gauche out of it), buy the biggest steel you can find, and learn how to properly steel your knives. There are numerous tutorials online. <snip>. I don't even own a steel. I've seen many say not to use a steel on the Japanese blades. That's because Japanese knives have a thinner bevel. If you don't know what you're doing and treat them like a Euro blade, you'll round over the edge and dull it. There's nothing magic about Japanese steel or knives, but they don't tolerate mishandling like a Euro or U.S. blade will. Proper steeling is nothing like the frenetic action you see on TV and movies. I steel my blades (regardless of origin or type) every time they come out of the block, but I do it slowly, gently, and deliberately, taking great care to use the proper angle for the individual blade. Because of that, I only rarely need to actually sharpen any of them. It only takes a few strokes on the steel each time they come out of the block to set the edge up and keep it up. I will note that the same person always should do the steeling. Because everyone holds a knife a bit differently, letting all and sundry (especially if different-handed) use the steel will round over the edge. Again, there's no magic to any of this. I learned how to do it by reading and doing. It sounds like it's a PITA, but it's actually very quick, easy (once you learn how), and keeps your expensive knife performing like an expensive knife. |
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Rapala filet knife. Not much else needed. Sharpens like a razor. Also what we use to cut up deer. Bread is the only thing it wont cut. |
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Just this thing http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v626/Skammy/knief.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v626/Skammy/steaks_zps4339d303.jpg View Quote What cut of meat is that Skammy? |
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Quoted: What cut of meat is that Skammy? |
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I don't even own a steel. I've seen many say not to use a steel on the Japanese blades. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Generally speaking: European/German blades (Wusthoff, Henckels) have heavier (thicker) blades and softer steel. Japanese blades (MAC, Shun, Tojiro) have lighter, harder blades. U.S. blades (Chicago Cutlery) are more like Ze Germans. I have and use all the above brands at home, but have moved away from the Euro blades over the years. At work, however, I still use my 15-year-old slightly modified Sabatier 12" ham slicer and 5-year-old modified Dexter boning knife every day. They all have advantages and disadvantages, which is why buying a single-brand knife set is sub-optimal. The most important knife in the block is not a knife: it's the steel. Every knife set I've ever seen gives you the smallest, shittiest steel they can get away with. Do yourself a huge favor and throw that little toy in the trash (or make a main gauche out of it), buy the biggest steel you can find, and learn how to properly steel your knives. There are numerous tutorials online. If you don't / won't learn to steel correctly, you might as well buy the cheapest serrated knife you can find at the Dollar Store. It will "cut" (actually shred) things longer than the best "good" knife that has been dulled by mistreatment, and save you a fortune. Or, you could exponentially compound the waste of money and buy the Cutco serrated "knives", which simply tear and shred their way through food just like the Dollar Store knife, but cost more than a good knife. Only 2 knives should be serrated: bread and tomato. And get a wood or hard rubber cutting board. Polypro is second best. Everything else is evil, as in Hillary Clinton/George Soros/Satan/Cthulhu evil. I don't even own a steel. I've seen many say not to use a steel on the Japanese blades. Basically this is correct; do not use a honing steel on Japanese knives. Just do some reading before you dive in. Stones or a ceramic honing "steel" for Japanese knives. Worth the effort when vegetables seem to melt before the mere hint of pressure under a gentle push cut. |
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Commercial kitchen knife from Sam's Club. Going on 10 years. Works awesome. Paid about $7.00
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I find it best to have different types of knives for different purposes.
German knives for bone-in meat; Japanese for fish and vegetables. It took awhile to figure this out, but worthwhile. Having a good japanese Gyuto plus a set of German knives from chef to bread to paring-- works for me. |
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I don't even own a steel. I've seen many say not to use a steel on the Japanese blades. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Generally speaking: European/German blades (Wusthoff, Henckels) have heavier (thicker) blades and softer steel. Japanese blades (MAC, Shun, Tojiro) have lighter, harder blades. U.S. blades (Chicago Cutlery) are more like Ze Germans. I have and use all the above brands at home, but have moved away from the Euro blades over the years. At work, however, I still use my 15-year-old slightly modified Sabatier 12" ham slicer and 5-year-old modified Dexter boning knife every day. They all have advantages and disadvantages, which is why buying a single-brand knife set is sub-optimal. The most important knife in the block is not a knife: it's the steel. Every knife set I've ever seen gives you the smallest, shittiest steel they can get away with. Do yourself a huge favor and throw that little toy in the trash (or make a main gauche out of it), buy the biggest steel you can find, and learn how to properly steel your knives. There are numerous tutorials online. If you don't / won't learn to steel correctly, you might as well buy the cheapest serrated knife you can find at the Dollar Store. It will "cut" (actually shred) things longer than the best "good" knife that has been dulled by mistreatment, and save you a fortune. Or, you could exponentially compound the waste of money and buy the Cutco serrated "knives", which simply tear and shred their way through food just like the Dollar Store knife, but cost more than a good knife. Only 2 knives should be serrated: bread and tomato. And get a wood or hard rubber cutting board. Polypro is second best. Everything else is evil, as in Hillary Clinton/George Soros/Satan/Cthulhu evil. I don't even own a steel. I've seen many say not to use a steel on the Japanese blades. A diamond steel is a must have in my knife kit, but I have quite a bit of stuff in it since it's what I do for a living. |
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What cut of meat is that Skammy? Thought so. That is some serious marbling, how was it? |
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A diamond steel is a must have in my knife kit, but I have quite a bit of stuff in it since it's what I do for a living. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Generally speaking: European/German blades (Wusthoff, Henckels) have heavier (thicker) blades and softer steel. Japanese blades (MAC, Shun, Tojiro) have lighter, harder blades. U.S. blades (Chicago Cutlery) are more like Ze Germans. I have and use all the above brands at home, but have moved away from the Euro blades over the years. At work, however, I still use my 15-year-old slightly modified Sabatier 12" ham slicer and 5-year-old modified Dexter boning knife every day. They all have advantages and disadvantages, which is why buying a single-brand knife set is sub-optimal. The most important knife in the block is not a knife: it's the steel. Every knife set I've ever seen gives you the smallest, shittiest steel they can get away with. Do yourself a huge favor and throw that little toy in the trash (or make a main gauche out of it), buy the biggest steel you can find, and learn how to properly steel your knives. There are numerous tutorials online. If you don't / won't learn to steel correctly, you might as well buy the cheapest serrated knife you can find at the Dollar Store. It will "cut" (actually shred) things longer than the best "good" knife that has been dulled by mistreatment, and save you a fortune. Or, you could exponentially compound the waste of money and buy the Cutco serrated "knives", which simply tear and shred their way through food just like the Dollar Store knife, but cost more than a good knife. Only 2 knives should be serrated: bread and tomato. And get a wood or hard rubber cutting board. Polypro is second best. Everything else is evil, as in Hillary Clinton/George Soros/Satan/Cthulhu evil. I don't even own a steel. I've seen many say not to use a steel on the Japanese blades. A diamond steel is a must have in my knife kit, but I have quite a bit of stuff in it since it's what I do for a living. I haven't done it professionally in a few years, but yeah the wear and tear your knives take is totally different. Plus I tended to primarily use about 3 knives, when I was on line. I vary them on purpose now, as I have a bunch that I would never bring into a commercial kitchen. |
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I bought a set of Zwilling J.A. Henckels Twin Signature for Christmas and love them. What are your go to kitchen knives? View Quote I put together a big set of original Henckels with wooden laminated handles and ice tempered SS blades, but sold/labeled by Hoffritz here in America. I got most of them in minty condition off of Ebay and saved a lot of money. Probably 15 knives and I put together a set for my sister almost as large. I have the 10.5, 8 and 6 inch Chef's knives, the 10.5, 8 and 6 inch slicers, among others and I probably use the 8" Chef's knife most and then the 6" CK. For quartering a cooked pizza, it's always the 10.5" battle axe CK. Chris |
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Quoted: Thought so. That is some serious marbling, how was it? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: What cut of meat is that Skammy? Thought so. That is some serious marbling, how was it? You should be able to find a place that carries it maybe.. |
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Quoted: Very delicious.. It's a darling downs wagyu steak You should be able to find a place that carries it maybe.. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: What cut of meat is that Skammy? Thought so. That is some serious marbling, how was it? |
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A metric shit-ton of very good Japanese knives. Another said unit of measurement of cool sharpening gear. I'm a knife nerd, but we seldom eat meat that requires cutting. So we eat a lot of $2/head Cauliflower from Trader Joes 'cause it gives me something to butcher out like a real man should be doing.
70 % of the cutting in our home gets done by a dog-chewed-the-handle, beat to shit 15 year old Victorinox Santoku. I've another $225 Gyuto coming tomorrow |
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Wusthof classic Ikon. They're pretty and sharp.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Shun and Global. Any cheap NSF white-handle knife for hacking around. http://i960.photobucket.com/albums/ae81/testify220/Web/KnifeRoll.jpg View Quote I love my Globals! |
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My Granddad made this one I suspect in the 1920s. All of Grandma's kitchen knives were handmade. It was made from a crosscut saw blade. I was lucky to snag this one that was left in the smoke-house. My Aunts got the rest. Still going strong. http://oi62.tinypic.com/smdcnt.jpg I kinda feel sorry for you folks that have to use all store bought stuff....No meaning or warmth to them at all. So how do you chop without a heel? I slice precisely, chopping is for the lazy. If I have to chop through something like a deer pelvis I have a home-made meat cleaver for that. |
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Chicago Cutlery.
Don't put it in the dishwasher. A friend's wife put her'w in. The handles looked like driftwood, with popped rivits from the wood swelling. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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$8 Santoku food grade from Sams Club. (I have a lot of Henckels and a Shun)
Second up is a medium boning knife by Old Hickory. It has done a lot of.............................boning. I am a shooter, reloader, and a cook. I use my shit, and I even threw my knife down the driveway for that combat-proven look. Funny thing is that I was preparing a couple main dishes for superbowl week at a friend's house while out of town. There wasn't a sharp knife in the entire kitchen. I used my Gerber EZ out to chop veggies, bone and cut a turkey in half, and chop up all kinds of shit. It makes me think there may be a good market for a folder chef's knife for traveling. Is there such a thing? |
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I have a KBAR blade I rescued from a gunshow table for $5. No handle. Someone cut the tang off and brazed a bolt on with a big lump of brass to screw onto that. I removed that and had some flat stock brazed on and installed and pinned a hunk of maple. Shaped that and put a finish on it. They had put a bevel on it more conducive to a kitchen knife so it works great. I keep it sharp with some good stones and a Zwilling steel. It does everything I need. View Quote I would like to see a photo of that. Sounds interesting. |
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Shun and Global. Any cheap NSF white-handle knife for hacking around. http://i960.photobucket.com/albums/ae81/testify220/Web/KnifeRoll.jpg View Quote Pretty much this |
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I like cheap stuff that works. Victorinox seems to be consistently good.
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I like cheap stuff that works. Victorinox seems to be consistently good. View Quote Victorinox is the 1988 Ford Taurus of the kitchen knife world. Gets you there but............ They are thick behind the edge, lack grind geometry to prevent stiction, are soft enough to steel which means they don't hold an edge especially well, the handles for the most part are clumsy and blocky. Take the 8" chef's knife, the handle is cocked at an upward angle which forces the wrist to a difficult angle on counter tops of normal height. Yet this is the knife that America's Test Kitchen has hailed repeatedly as the best low $ kitchen knife so they sell in huge quantities. I bought one just to have a look. It stays on the microwave for my Wife to use - she doesn't care. I own Vic knives for tasks I rarely perform - 12" slicer, boning, and for those they are a pretty good value. But if you enjoy cooking and breaking down ingredients a good Japanese knife - properly maintained, blows any German or American knife out of the water. And for the record, Shun is the Bose Audio of the Kitchen knife world, though it's a very crowded field of candidates. |
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I have a set of respectable Henkels Twins Classic knives that I often us, but my day-to-day go-to is an inexpensive thin cleaver I got in Chinatown many years back. It sharpens up like a razor and is the most versatile thing in my kitchen other than the Quisinart. It cost $10.
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I have a set of respectable Henkels Twins Classic knives that I often us, but my day-to-day got-to is an inexpensive thin cleaver I got in Chinatown many years back. It sharpens up like a razor and is the most versatile thing in my kitchen other than the Quisinart. It cost $10. View Quote Thin, cheap Chinese cleavers are tons of fun. I have a heavier $6 stainless one as well that comes out when splitting crab legs etc |
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I have three Victorinox I use... an 8" and 6" chefs and a paring... think I paid around $50 for all three. They came very sharp and have stayed that way for years through proper use of a steel, and care.
They aren't pretty of course, but the handle materiel they use is probably the grippiest you'll find on a knife, and they have nice weighting for stamped tools quality for a fair price... if you're into admiring your kitchen tools and have money to burn, rather than just chopping shit up, I'm sure there are many more appropriate options. |
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My go to is a Nenox Corian 270mm guyto (top knife). My wife goes for a 240mm Tadatsuna Inox gyuto ( not pictured).
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A mix of shun, wusthof and miyabi at my house.
I'm most impressed with my friend's wusthof epicure...he used it exclusively at his food truck for six months and it has not needed honing yet. Still wickedly sharp with just a quick steel. |
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