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Posted: 2/3/2016 2:59:50 PM EDT
[#1]
basically as close to stock as you can get is better.
Chances might be low that someone screwed with it then Love them |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:01:47 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? Why isn't '87 in the running? That was the 1st year of the ground effects that those other years had. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:03:12 PM EDT
[#3]
^^^^^^^^ '87 was the switch to the new body style. 85-86 had their own and 79-84 are relative.
Avoid anything with sunroof, T-tops or Convertible. I had an '86 GT with sunroof, nothing but issues with it. Otherwise, try to find one stock like mentioned. Look for usual things ppl do to them (headers, intake, cold air intake, subframe supports, exhaust, etc.) |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:03:45 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why isn't '87 in the running? That was the 1st year of the ground effects that those other years had. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? Why isn't '87 in the running? That was the 1st year of the ground effects that those other years had. I did not know that, 87 is fine then too 
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:04:46 PM EDT
[#5]
Cracking in the floor pan under the driver's seat if it had some fat person driving it.
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:04:58 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Avoid anything with sunroof, T-tops or Convertible. I had an '86 GT with sunroof, nothing but issues with it. Otherwise, try to find one stock like mentioned. Look for usual things ppl do to them (headers, intake, cold air intake, subframe supports, exhaust, etc.) Wife wants a convertible. It will live most of its life in the garage parked next my 62' Fairlane. I've found a couple close to me that were all bone stock, no mods done at all. They are around the $3-4k range, not sure that's good or not |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:05:54 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Cracking in the floor pan under the driver's seat if it had some fat person driving it. Forgot about that. I had an '84 Capri RS (same as Mustang GT), it had the cracked floor, just had it plated and welded up. Good as new. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:07:09 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wife wants a convertible. It will live most of its life in the garage parked next my 62' Fairlane. I've found a couple close to me that were all bone stock, no mods done at all. They are around the $3-4k range, not sure that's good or not Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Avoid anything with sunroof, T-tops or Convertible. I had an '86 GT with sunroof, nothing but issues with it. Otherwise, try to find one stock like mentioned. Look for usual things ppl do to them (headers, intake, cold air intake, subframe supports, exhaust, etc.) Wife wants a convertible. It will live most of its life in the garage parked next my 62' Fairlane. I've found a couple close to me that were all bone stock, no mods done at all. They are around the $3-4k range, not sure that's good or not You pretty much need to toss out NADA/KBB on value when it comes to older, your going to pay for condition and mileages and maintance. Id pay 4k for a decent GT that was stock. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:07:13 PM EDT
[#9]
I am not a Ford Mustang fox body expert.
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:09:52 PM EDT
[#10]
edit, stand by.
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:11:01 PM EDT
[#11]
I had a 7up edition 1990 convertible for many years. The only issue I had, and I think it is common to the motor, was a rear main seal leak. It had 2 or 3 recalls for electrical stuff that were handled easily by the dealer. I liked it a lot.
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:11:18 PM EDT
[#12]
sorry Common problems
broken ash tray door Bent driver side seat ( leaning back and into center of car) Check floor pans by firewall, seat mounting and rear section around gas tank. Sunroofs have been know to leak, Good seals are available. Check drain tubes that go behind quarter windows also quarter window trim is normally junked. Replacements are an option. My 91 has 36k original miles on it |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:17:38 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why isn't '87 in the running? That was the 1st year of the ground effects that those other years had. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? Why isn't '87 in the running? That was the 1st year of the ground effects that those other years had. get a MAF one, 89-93. It will make upgrades easier in the future. Check torque boxes for cracks, especially on convertibles. If you find one with a working ashtray, buy it. Those things are always broken 
My baby from HS. My dad bought it new in '91. I bought it from him and did a .030" bore, H/C/I, exhaust, Tremec Trans, 150 shot, etc. My buddy totaled it, and he wasn't even supposed to drive it. 
It was 100% stock appearance, except it was lowered 1", rode on some fat Mickey Thompson street radials and had a Cobra rear bumper. I surprised more than a few LS1s with the old purge switch and remote bottle opener... 
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:20:36 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You pretty much need to toss out NADA/KBB on value when it comes to older, your going to pay for condition and mileages and maintance. Id pay 4k for a decent GT that was stock. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Avoid anything with sunroof, T-tops or Convertible. I had an '86 GT with sunroof, nothing but issues with it. Otherwise, try to find one stock like mentioned. Look for usual things ppl do to them (headers, intake, cold air intake, subframe supports, exhaust, etc.) Wife wants a convertible. It will live most of its life in the garage parked next my 62' Fairlane. I've found a couple close to me that were all bone stock, no mods done at all. They are around the $3-4k range, not sure that's good or not You pretty much need to toss out NADA/KBB on value when it comes to older, your going to pay for condition and mileages and maintance. Id pay 4k for a decent GT that was stock. The one I'm looking at (1990 Mustang GT two tone blue and gray) is owned by a 65 year old man. He's the second owner of it, and has had it for the last 20 years. It's got 144k miles on it. He had it repainted about 10 years ago, the paint still looks good for its age. He's asking 3k for it |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:24:30 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The one I'm looking at is owned by a 65 year old man. He's the second owner of it, and has had it for the last 20 years. It's got 144k miles on it. He had it repainted about 10 years ago, the paint still looks good for its age. He's asking 3k for it Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Avoid anything with sunroof, T-tops or Convertible. I had an '86 GT with sunroof, nothing but issues with it. Otherwise, try to find one stock like mentioned. Look for usual things ppl do to them (headers, intake, cold air intake, subframe supports, exhaust, etc.) Wife wants a convertible. It will live most of its life in the garage parked next my 62' Fairlane. I've found a couple close to me that were all bone stock, no mods done at all. They are around the $3-4k range, not sure that's good or not You pretty much need to toss out NADA/KBB on value when it comes to older, your going to pay for condition and mileages and maintance. Id pay 4k for a decent GT that was stock. The one I'm looking at is owned by a 65 year old man. He's the second owner of it, and has had it for the last 20 years. It's got 144k miles on it. He had it repainted about 10 years ago, the paint still looks good for its age. He's asking 3k for it What year? 5 SPD? At $3k if its pretty clean I'd buy it in a heartbeat! Beat me with an edit. Go buy it now... Edit: Don't be surprised if the rear windows don't work. They aren't THAT hard to replace the regulators, but they do go bad often. You can help this by only rolling up the windows after the top is up. The top slamming onto the raised rear windows caused premature wear on the regulators. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:28:27 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What year? 5 SPD? At $3k if its pretty clean I'd buy it in a heartbeat! Beat me with an edit. Go buy it now... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Avoid anything with sunroof, T-tops or Convertible. I had an '86 GT with sunroof, nothing but issues with it. Otherwise, try to find one stock like mentioned. Look for usual things ppl do to them (headers, intake, cold air intake, subframe supports, exhaust, etc.) Wife wants a convertible. It will live most of its life in the garage parked next my 62' Fairlane. I've found a couple close to me that were all bone stock, no mods done at all. They are around the $3-4k range, not sure that's good or not You pretty much need to toss out NADA/KBB on value when it comes to older, your going to pay for condition and mileages and maintance. Id pay 4k for a decent GT that was stock. The one I'm looking at is owned by a 65 year old man. He's the second owner of it, and has had it for the last 20 years. It's got 144k miles on it. He had it repainted about 10 years ago, the paint still looks good for its age. He's asking 3k for it What year? 5 SPD? At $3k if its pretty clean I'd buy it in a heartbeat! Beat me with an edit. Go buy it now... Its an automatic . The issues that he told me it has is, the top is slow to go up (it goes down just fine), the small windows in the back sometimes come off track (is this common?), the original white leather seats are pretty worn (not cracked, just worn). Also, he replaced the original vinyl top a few years back with a new cloth type top
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:31:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
get a MAF one, 89-93. It will make upgrades easier in the future. Check torque boxes for cracks, especially on convertibles. If you find one with a working ashtray, buy it. Those things are always broken
My baby from HS. My dad bought it new in '91. I bought it from him and did a .030" bore, H/C/I, exhaust, Tremec Trans, 150 shot, etc. My buddy totaled it, and he wasn't even supposed to drive it.
It was 100% stock appearance, except it was lowered 1", rode on some fat Mickey Thompson street radials and had a Cobra rear bumper. I surprised more than a few LS1s with the old purge switch and remote bottle opener... https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/207190_1008991666287_9295_n.jpg?oh=d7488dd2d8b84cf22dca58645db07e26&oe=57287E74 https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/206574_1008991306278_241_n.jpg?oh=ee19c2325fc32e40dae363ad9ff6a941&oe=5770EE5C Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? Why isn't '87 in the running? That was the 1st year of the ground effects that those other years had. get a MAF one, 89-93. It will make upgrades easier in the future. Check torque boxes for cracks, especially on convertibles. If you find one with a working ashtray, buy it. Those things are always broken
My baby from HS. My dad bought it new in '91. I bought it from him and did a .030" bore, H/C/I, exhaust, Tremec Trans, 150 shot, etc. My buddy totaled it, and he wasn't even supposed to drive it.
It was 100% stock appearance, except it was lowered 1", rode on some fat Mickey Thompson street radials and had a Cobra rear bumper. I surprised more than a few LS1s with the old purge switch and remote bottle opener... https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/207190_1008991666287_9295_n.jpg?oh=d7488dd2d8b84cf22dca58645db07e26&oe=57287E74 https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/206574_1008991306278_241_n.jpg?oh=ee19c2325fc32e40dae363ad9ff6a941&oe=5770EE5C You can fix the ashtray door, you know. 
ETA: Black seats are also made out of gold. My driver's seat is broken, and its almost more cost effective to grab a discarded recaro out of an Evo than an original black sport seat.
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:38:29 PM EDT
[#18]
The Borg Warner T5 transmission is absolute shit.
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:39:25 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Its an automatic . The issues that he told me it has is, the top is slow to go up (it goes down just fine), the small windows in the back sometimes come off track (is this common?), the original white leather seats are pretty worn (not cracked, just worn). Also, he replaced the original vinyl top a few years back with a new cloth type topMan they are SLOOOW with an auto, especially being a heavy bodied 'vert. The AOD in those cars was particularly lack luster, but luckily the aftermarket is flooded with shift kits and parts for those cars. The top motor is going out, and they aren't the worst to replace, but they die a loooooong death. When mine started going out I just held the button for the top and reached back with my other arm to help the top come forward. It will probably be fine for a few years. Do the usual rundown for used car stuff, check the shocks with a bounce test, check the vac lines, and the filters. Wiggle the wheels in and out and side to side looking for wheel bearing slop, bad tie rods, or ball joints. Push and pull on the rear wheels to check the axle bearings. In fact, go ahead and crack open the diff as soon as you get it, throw in some 4.10 gears with a rebuilt clutch pack in the differential. Factory were probably 3.31 gear ratio and one wheel peel(clutch diff burned up) was common. That's I can think of off the top of my head. It's been almost 10 years since I was really into the 5.0 scene. Good luck and I'll check back with this thread, but feel free to IM me any questions! |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:40:36 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The Borg Warner T5 transmission is absolute shit. Works just fine for what it is. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:42:31 PM EDT
[#21]
true 87-88 are speed density 89-93 are mass air
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:42:53 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
^^^^^^^^ '87 was the switch to the new body style. 85-86 had their own and 79-84 are relative. Avoid anything with sunroof, T-tops or Convertible. I had an '86 GT with sunroof, nothing but issues with it. Otherwise, try to find one stock like mentioned. Look for usual things ppl do to them (headers, intake, cold air intake, subframe supports, exhaust, etc.) I had an '86 GT as well. I didn't have any sunroof issues, though. 5-speed manual......man, I do miss that car. I can still remember the badass snarl when you started it up. It was quick as hell for what else was on the road back then, but holy shit those brakes sucked.
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:43:19 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You can fix the ashtray door, you know.
ETA: Black seats are also made out of gold. My driver's seat is broken, and its almost more cost effective to grab a discarded recaro out of an Evo than an original black sport seat. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? Why isn't '87 in the running? That was the 1st year of the ground effects that those other years had. get a MAF one, 89-93. It will make upgrades easier in the future. Check torque boxes for cracks, especially on convertibles. If you find one with a working ashtray, buy it. Those things are always broken
My baby from HS. My dad bought it new in '91. I bought it from him and did a .030" bore, H/C/I, exhaust, Tremec Trans, 150 shot, etc. My buddy totaled it, and he wasn't even supposed to drive it.
It was 100% stock appearance, except it was lowered 1", rode on some fat Mickey Thompson street radials and had a Cobra rear bumper. I surprised more than a few LS1s with the old purge switch and remote bottle opener... https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/207190_1008991666287_9295_n.jpg?oh=d7488dd2d8b84cf22dca58645db07e26&oe=57287E74 https://scontent-sjc2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/206574_1008991306278_241_n.jpg?oh=ee19c2325fc32e40dae363ad9ff6a941&oe=5770EE5C You can fix the ashtray door, you know.
ETA: Black seats are also made out of gold. My driver's seat is broken, and its almost more cost effective to grab a discarded recaro out of an Evo than an original black sport seat. My ash tray door worked, which was tits, because I had my nitrous switches wired into it. Completely stock mint interior, too. Man this thread has me feeling nostalgic. I miss the hell out of torque.... |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:44:11 PM EDT
[#24]
Loved the 85 I had, but the t-tops worked better than most shower heads.
Big thing on the fox body is floor pan where the seat bolts in. They are known to tear from metal fatigue. When looking at one grab the top of the seat and push it around to make sure the floor pan is good |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:45:09 PM EDT
[#25]
Look at the torque boxes and undercarriage for cracks and breaks.
Convertibles are also susceptible to door sagging of the owners dod not put sub frame connectors on the car. The rear main seal and head gaskets will weep a bit of oil on higher mileage cars. The 87-92 models used forfed pistons...the 93 had cast pistons. The T5 is weak...but easily replaced. The stock E7TE heads are the biggest restriction to performance on the 5.0...a head swap to anything else will really wake the motor up. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 3:54:26 PM EDT
[#26]
i keep on remembering things. check the torque boxes
where the rear control arms (4) mount to body. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 4:05:32 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The Borg Warner T5 transmission is absolute shit. There were not a lot of other options out there. My 95 Cobra has a slightly upgraded t5, honestly 330ft/lbs is enough capacity unless you are on sticky tires and drag launching it, and I find no issues with i given I have traction problems even wuth 315 street tires. It is a nice light trans when it comes to dropping it for rebuild or clutch replacement. I would sooner do a Gforce T5 upgrade than do a big heavy high rotational loss t56. I may some day own a Fox body but no way in hell I would have a convertible. LX notch back coupe for me. Subframes at a minimum with cobra 5 lug disc brake conversion front and rear. As others have said, 89-93 for mass air. Do a head/cam/intake with a tune and be done. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 4:09:17 PM EDT
[#28]
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? Just noticed you're in GA, What part? |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 4:12:21 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just noticed you're in GA, What part? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? Just noticed you're in GA, What part? Up GA 400 near Alpharetta. The car is in Peachtree City, I'll be looking at it tomorrow |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 4:14:18 PM EDT
[#30]
You can swap in a manual transmission without too much trouble if you really want one. I'm without a 5.0 right now, but I've got my manual trans swap parts tucked away for when I have the garage space again.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 4:17:01 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? If it looks like it has been worked. Check the gaps, 80% of the ones you find will be all twisted up from racing. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 4:18:49 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If it looks like it has been worked. Check the gaps, 80% of the ones you find will be all twisted up from racing. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? If it looks like it has been worked. Check the gaps, 80% of the ones you find will be all twisted up from racing. I don't think its been raced at all. It is all bone stock, even has the stock exhaust |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 4:47:52 PM EDT
[#33]
LX 5.0 Notchback is my fave!!!!!!!!
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Posted: 2/3/2016 4:51:37 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Forgot about that. I had an '84 Capri RS (same as Mustang GT), it had the cracked floor, just had it plated and welded up. Good as new. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Cracking in the floor pan under the driver's seat if it had some fat person driving it. Forgot about that. I had an '84 Capri RS (same as Mustang GT), it had the cracked floor, just had it plated and welded up. Good as new. Floor boards are a cinch to fix in fox body cars. Even full on replacement is easy. Op there is a lot of good advise. Definitely avoid sunroof cars. My fb had a factory roof that leaked like crazy. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 5:00:10 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Man they are SLOOOW with an auto, especially being a heavy bodied 'vert. The AOD in those cars was particularly lack luster, but luckily the aftermarket is flooded with shift kits and parts for those cars. The top motor is going out, and they aren't the worst to replace, but they die a loooooong death. When mine started going out I just held the button for the top and reached back with my other arm to help the top come forward. It will probably be fine for a few years. Do the usual rundown for used car stuff, check the shocks with a bounce test, check the vac lines, and the filters. Wiggle the wheels in and out and side to side looking for wheel bearing slop, bad tie rods, or ball joints. Push and pull on the rear wheels to check the axle bearings. In fact, go ahead and crack open the diff as soon as you get it, throw in some 4.10 gears with a rebuilt clutch pack in the differential. Factory were probably 3.31 gear ratio and one wheel peel(clutch diff burned up) was common. That's I can think of off the top of my head. It's been almost 10 years since I was really into the 5.0 scene. Good luck and I'll check back with this thread, but feel free to IM me any questions! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Its an automatic . The issues that he told me it has is, the top is slow to go up (it goes down just fine), the small windows in the back sometimes come off track (is this common?), the original white leather seats are pretty worn (not cracked, just worn). Also, he replaced the original vinyl top a few years back with a new cloth type topMan they are SLOOOW with an auto, especially being a heavy bodied 'vert. The AOD in those cars was particularly lack luster, but luckily the aftermarket is flooded with shift kits and parts for those cars. The top motor is going out, and they aren't the worst to replace, but they die a loooooong death. When mine started going out I just held the button for the top and reached back with my other arm to help the top come forward. It will probably be fine for a few years. Do the usual rundown for used car stuff, check the shocks with a bounce test, check the vac lines, and the filters. Wiggle the wheels in and out and side to side looking for wheel bearing slop, bad tie rods, or ball joints. Push and pull on the rear wheels to check the axle bearings. In fact, go ahead and crack open the diff as soon as you get it, throw in some 4.10 gears with a rebuilt clutch pack in the differential. Factory were probably 3.31 gear ratio and one wheel peel(clutch diff burned up) was common. That's I can think of off the top of my head. It's been almost 10 years since I was really into the 5.0 scene. Good luck and I'll check back with this thread, but feel free to IM me any questions! There is a fix for lackluster performance.
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Posted: 2/3/2016 5:12:23 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If it looks like it has been worked. Check the gaps, 80% of the ones you find will be all twisted up from racing. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? If it looks like it has been worked. Check the gaps, 80% of the ones you find will be all twisted up from racing. yeah... the roof wrinkled on my 91 LX 5.0. Man I spent a lot of money to make hp my truck makes stock now. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 5:17:06 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
yeah... the roof wrinkled on my 91 LX 5.0. Man I spent a lot of money to make hp my truck makes stock now. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
My wife is wanting to buy an 88-93 Mustang 5.0. Is there any common issues I should look for before buying one? If it looks like it has been worked. Check the gaps, 80% of the ones you find will be all twisted up from racing. yeah... the roof wrinkled on my 91 LX 5.0. Man I spent a lot of money to make hp my truck makes stock now. Bracing. Most people don't brace the chassis. If you're going to make power with a fb car, you need to have chassis braces, torquebox reenforcement, and ideally a good cage to cure chassis flex. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 5:19:09 PM EDT
[#38]
We have no plans to do any crazy mods to it. She just wants a convertible to cruise around town in
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Posted: 2/3/2016 5:25:37 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We have no plans to do any crazy mods to it. She just wants a convertible to cruise around town in Check for... Check body panels for gaps. Check torque boxes. Broken seats, floor pans, fuel fill pipe seal, door hinges and window regulators. Those are what I can think off off the top of my head. The 5.0 engines are usually pretty bullet proof. Check the oil for anything obvious. Check the coolant. Look for oil leaks, rear main is common. Drive and make sure the trans shifts and works fine. Check the trans fluid. Check suspension and swaybar bushings. Off the top of my head. The rest is common used car stuff to look over. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 6:30:07 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We have no plans to do any crazy mods to it. She just wants a convertible to cruise around town in Even if you don't plan to beat on the car, I would still install a good set of subframe connectors that include support braces for the front seat mounts. Convertibles come with additional torque box bracing, but they lack any bracing between the front and rear subframes. Without the roof structure of the coupe or hatchback the stresses of normal driving will cause a convertible to experience body flex over the years which will lead to problems. A set of subframe connectors is cheap prevention for multiple problems. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 10:12:37 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: LX 5.0 Notchback is my fave!!!!!!!! They're on my short list. |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 10:21:44 PM EDT
[#42]
You want 89+ which is mass air. 88 and older is speed density. If you are planning any power adders (turbo, nitrous , supercharger) with the stock bottom end you want 89-92. As 93s have hypertectic* pistons.
ETA maybe its 88 on for mass air. I never kept any of that stuff long enough to remember. Last car had fast injection |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 10:30:54 PM EDT
[#43]
*sigh" owned 15 of the damn things over the years
I need to get another most issues have already been covered , except I had a few leaky heater cores and they are a bit of a chore to fix |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 10:42:22 PM EDT
[#44]
great points so far, another thing to check is the front strut towers
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Posted: 2/3/2016 10:43:24 PM EDT
[#45]
I know 85s were the first year with the roller cams
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Posted: 2/3/2016 10:45:54 PM EDT
[#46]
I miss my 85
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Posted: 2/3/2016 10:50:45 PM EDT
[#47]
Wish they weren't so hard to find around here. I want a notch back which makes it even harder/more expensive.
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Posted: 2/3/2016 10:57:16 PM EDT
[#48]
Also check the vin to see if its a "real" v8 car, not a conversion. The 8th digit will be E for V8 cars (93 cobra is D).
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Posted: 2/3/2016 11:04:10 PM EDT
[#49]
1992 GT is what you want to hunt for. Last year of forged pistons, the wheel well openings were enlarged on the 1991 and up cars so you have more tire clearance, the T5 world class was being upgraded through several minor revisions, with 1990 being when it was finally upgraded on the books to take more torque.
Good luck finding a lower mileage example with good paint and no dings...they are getting really hard to come by in that condition any more. Wes |
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Posted: 2/3/2016 11:07:14 PM EDT
[#50]
Had an 87 GT T-top in high school and it didn't take much to get it to run 13s in the 1/4... loved that car. Wish I had another..
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