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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:05:02 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Brakes are usually about as easy as it gets. Also, check rockauto for your parts. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:05:17 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just be sure to test brakes before moving vehicle. After compressing brake calipers it takes a couple of peal strokes before the brakes come up hard. This. 
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:06:00 PM EDT
[#3]
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1378308&cc=1430816&jnid=538&jpid=14
$22.79 + shipping. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:06:11 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
I've got an '05 F250 superduty 6.0 powerstroke diesel FX4 that last had its brakes/rotors changed July of 2012 (new brake pads and I opted for new rotors versus having the old rotors resurfaced). I had my truck in the dealership June of 2014 for a turbocharger problem and, per their routine inspection, the brakes/rotors were "within limits." My wife tells me a few days ago she heard some squeaking when she braked while driving the truck around town. I've driven the truck the past few days and haven't heard a peep. The truck's mileage in 2012 when it got new brakes/rotors was 96,160, and today it is 135,357 - so I've put on 39,197 miles on the current set of brakes/rotors in the past three years. The last brake job cost me a hare under $1k, with parts being $700 and labor coming to almost $300. I've been teaching myself how to work on my truck and over the past five years have taken on more and more repairs/maintenance jobs. I've replaced the shocks, replaced the glow plugs and harness, fixed the 4x4 (vacuum) system, and done a myriad of other relatively easier projects (new serpentine belt, new alternator, etc.). I feel mechanically inclined enough that, with a good guide/YouTube video, I can tackle a brake job. I'd like to know, is this a job that can be done without any special tools/devices (it appears to be from the few guides I have read/watched)? What are some of the tricks of the trade that I should know before doing this job? Are there any tools that, while not required, would make this job much easier? Are there any brake pads or rotors that are better quality than the OEM stuff that I should look at? Any other advice? Thanks! For something like that? A pain in the ass, most likely. Like, pound out all of the wheel studs, and separate the hub from the rotor pain in the ass. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:07:00 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You a service writer? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
OP turn the rotors..throwing new pads on used rotors causes all sorts of issues, including worse stopping distances, pulling, overheated pads and even squeks... always turn rotors... cheapest fastest way for a home mechanic is to buy new rotors , install with new pads, take old rotors and stop, at next brake job, turn old rotors and install with new pads and store old rotors again..... As for the brake job, its simple enough, pay close attention on tear down, clean all caliper slide surfaces and lube with synthetic caliper slide grease(get at store when getting parts), clean all rotor surfaces with brakleen before using.. inspect the entire brake system, including master cylinder, lines,and hoses, bleed system after installing new parts and make sure to bleed until clean fluid comes out bleeders..... You a service writer? LOL.. no mechanic..but I did own my own shop for 15-20 years..does that count? also been factory trained by GM, bendix, and raybesto's on brake systems.... |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:07:23 PM EDT
[#6]
Measure your rotors before taking them in to be turned. Most factory rotors don't have much thickness on them like the ones of old. Back in the day you could get 2 or 3 turns on rotors or drums. No for cost savings they don't leave much to work with.
The min spec will be stamped on the part or you can find it online. If you do decide to get them turned, make sure you'll have enough left to make it to the next change. Otherwise you'll do it again just to replace the rotors. I normally just replace the rotors (when doing the pads) if they look bad or are getting toward the lower end of the specs. If you have 4 wheel disc brakes, buy or rent the tool to compress the piston. They normally need to turn in as they compress at least the Ford I have to do. It's really not that hard. Do one side at a time so you can compare sides if you run into any problems or take pics with the phone. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:08:16 PM EDT
[#7]
It can be easy or it can become a nightmare.
The first time there is a learning curve, even with disc brakes. After that, you'll have figured out the little tricks and next time should go smoother. I would just buy new rotors instead of turning them thinner. Rotors aren't that expensive these days. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:08:18 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The kind that you take it to someone to do it. 
We had a parts store in Chester, VA that used to turn rotors for free. They closed down maybe 15+ years ago. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
You are going to need some special tools to get the rotors off. You can resurface your rotors; you do not have to replace them. You will need to check their condition. It is recommended that you at the minimum resurface rotors when you install new pads. Although, I do know people that have gotten away with just installing new pads. It all depends on the condition of your pads and rotors. I would recommend getting a Hayne's manual for your truck as it will help guide you through the brake maintenance process as well as general maintenance and repair of everything else. The kind that you take it to someone to do it.
We had a parts store in Chester, VA that used to turn rotors for free. They closed down maybe 15+ years ago. Pretty much this. There is a parts store that has a shop on the side that will do it for 7-10$ per rotor a few years ago. Not sure on pricing now. Basically, if there is enough "meat" on the rotors, they can 'Turn the rotor", that is, "resurface" it to a smooth surface. Look for a local parts store or mechanics shop and ask if they can "turn" or "resurface" your rotors. 10$ +/- to resurface is a lot better than >>$100 to replace with a new rotor, depending on costs for your truck. Mine were $120 each. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:09:22 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You a service writer? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
OP turn the rotors..throwing new pads on used rotors causes all sorts of issues, including worse stopping distances, pulling, overheated pads and even squeks... always turn rotors... cheapest fastest way for a home mechanic is to buy new rotors , install with new pads, take old rotors and stop, at next brake job, turn old rotors and install with new pads and store old rotors again..... As for the brake job, its simple enough, pay close attention on tear down, clean all caliper slide surfaces and lube with synthetic caliper slide grease(get at store when getting parts), clean all rotor surfaces with brakleen before using.. inspect the entire brake system, including master cylinder, lines,and hoses, bleed system after installing new parts and make sure to bleed until clean fluid comes out bleeders..... You a service writer? Must be, because he's wrong. 
ETA: I was trained, too. You don't have to resurface rotors if they aren't warped, or look like a vinyl record. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:10:03 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
LOL.. no mechanic..but I did own my own shop for 15-20 years..does that count? also been factory trained by GM, bendix, and raybesto's on brake systems.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Quoted:
OP turn the rotors..throwing new pads on used rotors causes all sorts of issues, including worse stopping distances, pulling, overheated pads and even squeks... always turn rotors... cheapest fastest way for a home mechanic is to buy new rotors , install with new pads, take old rotors and stop, at next brake job, turn old rotors and install with new pads and store old rotors again..... As for the brake job, its simple enough, pay close attention on tear down, clean all caliper slide surfaces and lube with synthetic caliper slide grease(get at store when getting parts), clean all rotor surfaces with brakleen before using.. inspect the entire brake system, including master cylinder, lines,and hoses, bleed system after installing new parts and make sure to bleed until clean fluid comes out bleeders..... You a service writer? LOL.. no mechanic..but I did own my own shop for 15-20 years..does that count? also been factory trained by GM, bendix, and raybesto's on brake systems.... Then you definitely get the joke.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:10:47 PM EDT
[#11]
I always put anti seize on all the parts that could rust or stick together. I bought all 4 pads and drilled and slotted rotters from Pep-Boys on sale for 275.00 out the door. Check the internet and you can usually get a 30% discount if you use ship to store.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:12:19 PM EDT
[#12]
The local O'Reilly's turns them. About the only place in my AO that does. Even the brake shops dont.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:12:34 PM EDT
[#13]
When you do the rears, do one drum at a time, that way you always have a map handy.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:13:06 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I always put anti seize on all the parts that could rust or stick together. I bought all 4 pads and drilled and slotted rotters from Pep-Boys on sale for 275.00 out the door. Check the internet and you can usually get a 30% discount if you use ship to store. they make a synthetic caliper slide grease that works much better then anti-seize..doesnt hold as much road grit/grime so keeps stuff sliding longer... |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:15:16 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I always put anti seize on all the parts that could rust or stick together. I bought all 4 pads and drilled and slotted rotters from Pep-Boys on sale for 275.00 out the door. Check the internet and you can usually get a 30% discount if you use ship to store. I wouldn't get drilled and slotted rotors of any type, unless they say "Brembo" on the side. Just slotted rotors are usually fine, but drilled, shitty rotors tend to crack and warp well before the pads are worn. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:17:55 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Must be, because he's wrong.
ETA: I was trained, too. You don't have to resurface rotors if they aren't warped, or look like a vinyl record. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
OP turn the rotors..throwing new pads on used rotors causes all sorts of issues, including worse stopping distances, pulling, overheated pads and even squeks... always turn rotors... cheapest fastest way for a home mechanic is to buy new rotors , install with new pads, take old rotors and stop, at next brake job, turn old rotors and install with new pads and store old rotors again..... As for the brake job, its simple enough, pay close attention on tear down, clean all caliper slide surfaces and lube with synthetic caliper slide grease(get at store when getting parts), clean all rotor surfaces with brakleen before using.. inspect the entire brake system, including master cylinder, lines,and hoses, bleed system after installing new parts and make sure to bleed until clean fluid comes out bleeders..... You a service writer? Must be, because he's wrong.
ETA: I was trained, too. You don't have to resurface rotors if they aren't warped, or look like a vinyl record. I assume you don't turn your own right? tell you what. go get a safe place to do some brake checks..then get your vehicle up to 60 mph..do a panic stop and measure stopping distance... now come do a complete brake job with turning rotors, then seat the pads and go repeat the test... when you pull your pads off next time, take a close look at the material..bet you see all sorts of heat cracks...doesnt matter to me if you turn them or not, but ignoring proven data is  ...
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:19:03 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What equipment is needed to resurface (assuming rotors are still within recommended width)? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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You are going to need some special tools to get the rotors off. You can resurface your rotors; you do not have to replace them. You will need to check their condition. It is recommended that you at the minimum resurface rotors when you install new pads. Although, I do know people that have gotten away with just installing new pads. It all depends on the condition of your pads and rotors. I would recommend getting a Hayne's manual for your truck as it will help guide you through the brake maintenance process as well as general maintenance and repair of everything else. You take them to a shop and it ends up costing you about as much as a new set would run. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:21:29 PM EDT
[#18]
When you're finished, be sure to pump the brake pedal and make it solid again before putting the vehicle into gear. This is so your brakes will work during that first stop.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:23:02 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The local O'Reilly's turns them. About the only place in my AO that does. Even the brake shops dont. I had a Blazer that I went to replace the front brakes. My rotors had uneven wear (I could tell before I took them off) and I was doing everything on the cheap. Imagine my surprise when I got to the rotors and found out they were composite. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:35:09 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I assume you don't turn your own right? tell you what. go get a safe place to do some brake checks..then get your vehicle up to 60 mph..do a panic stop and measure stopping distance... now come do a complete brake job with turning rotors, then seat the pads and go repeat the test... when you pull your pads off next time, take a close look at the material..bet you see all sorts of heat cracks...doesnt matter to me if you turn them or not, but ignoring proven data is ...Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
OP turn the rotors..throwing new pads on used rotors causes all sorts of issues, including worse stopping distances, pulling, overheated pads and even squeks... always turn rotors... cheapest fastest way for a home mechanic is to buy new rotors , install with new pads, take old rotors and stop, at next brake job, turn old rotors and install with new pads and store old rotors again..... As for the brake job, its simple enough, pay close attention on tear down, clean all caliper slide surfaces and lube with synthetic caliper slide grease(get at store when getting parts), clean all rotor surfaces with brakleen before using.. inspect the entire brake system, including master cylinder, lines,and hoses, bleed system after installing new parts and make sure to bleed until clean fluid comes out bleeders..... You a service writer? Must be, because he's wrong.
ETA: I was trained, too. You don't have to resurface rotors if they aren't warped, or look like a vinyl record. I assume you don't turn your own right? tell you what. go get a safe place to do some brake checks..then get your vehicle up to 60 mph..do a panic stop and measure stopping distance... now come do a complete brake job with turning rotors, then seat the pads and go repeat the test... when you pull your pads off next time, take a close look at the material..bet you see all sorts of heat cracks...doesnt matter to me if you turn them or not, but ignoring proven data is ...I usually just replace them, as I drive shit-box cars that start out thin, that more or less can't be turned without going under the recommended specs. For customer work I would always recommend turning rotors, but you can get away with just pads if the rotor surface isn't destroyed, or severely damaged. As far as turning rotors go I would recommend having it done by a shop that uses an on the car lathe, as this will true the rotor to the vehicle, and not the lathe. Considering the labor involved in removing the front rotors to be turned for 3/4 ton truck, I would recommend new ones if the surfaces are jacked up, as by the time you factor the labor involved in removing them + turning the rotor you would be better off just replacing it for best brake performance, especially when you factor in that even a "good" rotor usually takes at least .010 off a side. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:36:58 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I usually just replace them, as I drive shit-box cars that start out thin, that more or less can't be turned without going under the recommended specs. For customer work I would always recommend turning rotors, but you can get away with just pads if the rotor surface isn't destroyed, or severely damaged. As far as turning rotors go I would recommend having it done by a shop that uses an on the car lathe, as this will true the rotor to the vehicle, and not the lathe. Considering the labor involved in removing the front rotors to be turned for 3/4 ton truck, I would recommend new ones if the surfaces are jacked up, as by the time you factor the labor involved in removing them + turning the rotor you would be better off just replacing it for best brake performance, especially when you factor in that even a "good" rotor usually takes at least .010 off a side. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
OP turn the rotors..throwing new pads on used rotors causes all sorts of issues, including worse stopping distances, pulling, overheated pads and even squeks... always turn rotors... cheapest fastest way for a home mechanic is to buy new rotors , install with new pads, take old rotors and stop, at next brake job, turn old rotors and install with new pads and store old rotors again..... As for the brake job, its simple enough, pay close attention on tear down, clean all caliper slide surfaces and lube with synthetic caliper slide grease(get at store when getting parts), clean all rotor surfaces with brakleen before using.. inspect the entire brake system, including master cylinder, lines,and hoses, bleed system after installing new parts and make sure to bleed until clean fluid comes out bleeders..... You a service writer? Must be, because he's wrong.
ETA: I was trained, too. You don't have to resurface rotors if they aren't warped, or look like a vinyl record. I assume you don't turn your own right? tell you what. go get a safe place to do some brake checks..then get your vehicle up to 60 mph..do a panic stop and measure stopping distance... now come do a complete brake job with turning rotors, then seat the pads and go repeat the test... when you pull your pads off next time, take a close look at the material..bet you see all sorts of heat cracks...doesnt matter to me if you turn them or not, but ignoring proven data is ...I usually just replace them, as I drive shit-box cars that start out thin, that more or less can't be turned without going under the recommended specs. For customer work I would always recommend turning rotors, but you can get away with just pads if the rotor surface isn't destroyed, or severely damaged. As far as turning rotors go I would recommend having it done by a shop that uses an on the car lathe, as this will true the rotor to the vehicle, and not the lathe. Considering the labor involved in removing the front rotors to be turned for 3/4 ton truck, I would recommend new ones if the surfaces are jacked up, as by the time you factor the labor involved in removing them + turning the rotor you would be better off just replacing it for best brake performance, especially when you factor in that even a "good" rotor usually takes at least .010 off a side. 
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:39:04 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you figure out which end of a socket goes on the bolt and which goes on the ratchet, you can do brakes. Pretty much this. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:40:23 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I usually just replace them, as I drive shit-box cars that start out thin, that more or less can't be turned without going under the recommended specs. For customer work I would always recommend turning rotors, but you can get away with just pads if the rotor surface isn't destroyed, or severely damaged. As far as turning rotors go I would recommend having it done by a shop that uses an on the car lathe, as this will true the rotor to the vehicle, and not the lathe. Considering the labor involved in removing the front rotors to be turned for 3/4 ton truck, I would recommend new ones if the surfaces are jacked up, as by the time you factor the labor involved in removing them + turning the rotor you would be better off just replacing it for best brake performance, especially when you factor in that even a "good" rotor usually takes at least .010 off a side. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
OP turn the rotors..throwing new pads on used rotors causes all sorts of issues, including worse stopping distances, pulling, overheated pads and even squeks... always turn rotors... cheapest fastest way for a home mechanic is to buy new rotors , install with new pads, take old rotors and stop, at next brake job, turn old rotors and install with new pads and store old rotors again..... As for the brake job, its simple enough, pay close attention on tear down, clean all caliper slide surfaces and lube with synthetic caliper slide grease(get at store when getting parts), clean all rotor surfaces with brakleen before using.. inspect the entire brake system, including master cylinder, lines,and hoses, bleed system after installing new parts and make sure to bleed until clean fluid comes out bleeders..... You a service writer? Must be, because he's wrong.
ETA: I was trained, too. You don't have to resurface rotors if they aren't warped, or look like a vinyl record. I assume you don't turn your own right? tell you what. go get a safe place to do some brake checks..then get your vehicle up to 60 mph..do a panic stop and measure stopping distance... now come do a complete brake job with turning rotors, then seat the pads and go repeat the test... when you pull your pads off next time, take a close look at the material..bet you see all sorts of heat cracks...doesnt matter to me if you turn them or not, but ignoring proven data is ...I usually just replace them, as I drive shit-box cars that start out thin, that more or less can't be turned without going under the recommended specs. For customer work I would always recommend turning rotors, but you can get away with just pads if the rotor surface isn't destroyed, or severely damaged. As far as turning rotors go I would recommend having it done by a shop that uses an on the car lathe, as this will true the rotor to the vehicle, and not the lathe. Considering the labor involved in removing the front rotors to be turned for 3/4 ton truck, I would recommend new ones if the surfaces are jacked up, as by the time you factor the labor involved in removing them + turning the rotor you would be better off just replacing it for best brake performance, especially when you factor in that even a "good" rotor usually takes at least .010 off a side. Front rotors on his truck just slip onto the hub. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:53:44 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You take them to a shop and it ends up costing you about as much as a new set would run. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: You are going to need some special tools to get the rotors off. You can resurface your rotors; you do not have to replace them. You will need to check their condition. It is recommended that you at the minimum resurface rotors when you install new pads. Although, I do know people that have gotten away with just installing new pads. It all depends on the condition of your pads and rotors. I would recommend getting a Hayne's manual for your truck as it will help guide you through the brake maintenance process as well as general maintenance and repair of everything else. You take them to a shop and it ends up costing you about as much as a new set would run. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:58:07 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not sure if it is needed on OP's truck, but a mustang I did brakes on required a special tool. It was a small borg looking cube that a socket wrench extension snaped into, it allowed me to Rotate the brake caliper piston in, You cannot simply press them in like chevys. A lot of newer GMs require the same tool. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:01:04 PM EDT
[#26]
Maybe someone could answer for me before I take the time to remove the wheels to inspect the pads/rotors - how many miles should I get out of pads/rotors? I know that question is highly dependent on numerous variables, but assuming typical driving mostly on city streets and highways and towing maybe 5-8 times per year, how many miles should I expect to get before needing to replace pads and/or rotors? Truck has 30k miles on the current pads and rotors. I average 10K miles per year so I can expect by winter's end (March) to have an additional 4k miles put on the truck, which would mean if I don't change the brakes/rotors soon I the current ones would have ~34k miles on them March of next year. If I'm going to change them, I will do it this October before winter hits, or I will wait until spring.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:01:28 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The kind that you take it to someone to do it. We had a parts store in Chester, VA that used to turn rotors for free. They closed down maybe 15+ years ago. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: You are going to need some special tools to get the rotors off. You can resurface your rotors; you do not have to replace them. You will need to check their condition. It is recommended that you at the minimum resurface rotors when you install new pads. Although, I do know people that have gotten away with just installing new pads. It all depends on the condition of your pads and rotors. I would recommend getting a Hayne's manual for your truck as it will help guide you through the brake maintenance process as well as general maintenance and repair of everything else. The kind that you take it to someone to do it. We had a parts store in Chester, VA that used to turn rotors for free. They closed down maybe 15+ years ago. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:02:29 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe someone could answer for me before I take the time to remove the wheels to inspect the pads/rotors - how many miles should I get out of pads/rotors? I know that question is highly dependent on numerous variables, but assuming typical driving mostly on city streets and highways and towing maybe 5-8 times per year, how many miles should I expect to get before needing to replace pads and/or rotors? Truck has 30k miles on the current pads and rotors. I average 10K miles per year so I can expect by winter's end (March) to have an additional 4k miles put on the truck, which would mean if I don't change the brakes/rotors soon I the current ones would have ~34k miles on them March of next year. If I'm going to change them, I will do it this October before winter hits, or I will wait until spring. 30k on them? I'd at least inspect them. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:03:52 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes, yes they can. My Landcruiser is such a beast, it's not some little FWD econocar. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Rotors can be a BITCH if they're the kind that bolt onto the back of the hub. http://www.am-autoimages.com/partimage/BFS/AM-30407548/main.JPG Yes, yes they can. My Landcruiser is such a beast, it's not some little FWD econocar. Yeah that's no joke. Landcruiser rotors are a MF and you might as well do bearings while you're in there |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:11:39 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 30k on them? I'd at least inspect them. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Maybe someone could answer for me before I take the time to remove the wheels to inspect the pads/rotors - how many miles should I get out of pads/rotors? I know that question is highly dependent on numerous variables, but assuming typical driving mostly on city streets and highways and towing maybe 5-8 times per year, how many miles should I expect to get before needing to replace pads and/or rotors? Truck has 30k miles on the current pads and rotors. I average 10K miles per year so I can expect by winter's end (March) to have an additional 4k miles put on the truck, which would mean if I don't change the brakes/rotors soon I the current ones would have ~34k miles on them March of next year. If I'm going to change them, I will do it this October before winter hits, or I will wait until spring. 30k on them? I'd at least inspect them. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:14:46 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Maybe someone could answer for me before I take the time to remove the wheels to inspect the pads/rotors - how many miles should I get out of pads/rotors? I know that question is highly dependent on numerous variables, but assuming typical driving mostly on city streets and highways and towing maybe 5-8 times per year, how many miles should I expect to get before needing to replace pads and/or rotors? Truck has 30k miles on the current pads and rotors. I average 10K miles per year so I can expect by winter's end (March) to have an additional 4k miles put on the truck, which would mean if I don't change the brakes/rotors soon I the current ones would have ~34k miles on them March of next year. If I'm going to change them, I will do it this October before winter hits, or I will wait until spring. FWIW - I got like 80K miles out of a set of pads / rotors on my old Dakota 4x4 that I regularly off-roaded and towed with. Of course it was stick shift, so I did engine brake a good bit. Some drivers are just harder on vehicles / brakes than others. I can't stress enough - if you plan on keeping the vehicle, get GOOD quality stuff. I don't mean the latest 'cross-drilled, high tech whatever'.....just good stuff. For the cost of the parts store's bullshit parts you can get GOOD stuff shipped for the same price at RockAuto. I would search some Ford Truck message boards and see what pads people there recommend / have experience with. Personally I live Raybestos Professional stuff and Bendix - depending on what they are going on. And something I ALWAYS recommend, cause it's CHEAP, it's EASY and it's OFTEN overlooked. Go get a Mityvac bleeder setup. Like $30-40. I've had mine FOREVER. Once you've done your brake job, hook the MityVac up and flush out the old fluid. Start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. Good synthetic fluid is cheap. Brake fluid is a wear item that most people ignore. Brakes systems rust from the inside out because of this not being done. It takes zero time and it's dead nuts simple - just don't let the master cylinder run dry. That's it. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:15:40 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe someone could answer for me before I take the time to remove the wheels to inspect the pads/rotors - how many miles should I get out of pads/rotors? I know that question is highly dependent on numerous variables, but assuming typical driving mostly on city streets and highways and towing maybe 5-8 times per year, how many miles should I expect to get before needing to replace pads and/or rotors? Truck has 30k miles on the current pads and rotors. I average 10K miles per year so I can expect by winter's end (March) to have an additional 4k miles put on the truck, which would mean if I don't change the brakes/rotors soon I the current ones would have ~34k miles on them March of next year. If I'm going to change them, I will do it this October before winter hits, or I will wait until spring. I get about 80-90k+ on a front set of pads. 160-200k on a set of rear pads. Rear drum shoes might last the life of the vehicle. But I feather in and coast a lot. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:21:10 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I get about 80-90k+ on a front set of pads. 160-200k on a set of rear pads. Rear drum shoes might last the life of the vehicle. But I feather in and coast a lot. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Maybe someone could answer for me before I take the time to remove the wheels to inspect the pads/rotors - how many miles should I get out of pads/rotors? I know that question is highly dependent on numerous variables, but assuming typical driving mostly on city streets and highways and towing maybe 5-8 times per year, how many miles should I expect to get before needing to replace pads and/or rotors? Truck has 30k miles on the current pads and rotors. I average 10K miles per year so I can expect by winter's end (March) to have an additional 4k miles put on the truck, which would mean if I don't change the brakes/rotors soon I the current ones would have ~34k miles on them March of next year. If I'm going to change them, I will do it this October before winter hits, or I will wait until spring. I get about 80-90k+ on a front set of pads. 160-200k on a set of rear pads. Rear drum shoes might last the life of the vehicle. But I feather in and coast a lot. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:21:51 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been told by more than one acquaintance that I drive like Miss Daisy. I don't speed, don't brake hard, and generally drive easy. So I'm not hard on brakes. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Maybe someone could answer for me before I take the time to remove the wheels to inspect the pads/rotors - how many miles should I get out of pads/rotors? I know that question is highly dependent on numerous variables, but assuming typical driving mostly on city streets and highways and towing maybe 5-8 times per year, how many miles should I expect to get before needing to replace pads and/or rotors? Truck has 30k miles on the current pads and rotors. I average 10K miles per year so I can expect by winter's end (March) to have an additional 4k miles put on the truck, which would mean if I don't change the brakes/rotors soon I the current ones would have ~34k miles on them March of next year. If I'm going to change them, I will do it this October before winter hits, or I will wait until spring. I get about 80-90k+ on a front set of pads. 160-200k on a set of rear pads. Rear drum shoes might last the life of the vehicle. But I feather in and coast a lot. Checking them is cheap insurance with winter coming up. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:30:09 PM EDT
[#35]
Buy your parts ahead of time from RockAuto and save even more.
Get the little $2 packet of lube for the bolts. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:32:11 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good to know! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just watch a couple youtube videos and go for it. Just expect to take a couple hours doing it. You may not have to replace your rotors if there is still some pad life left as well. Make sure you have a nice big C-clamp handy for compressing the caliper back or get the tool. I got really doing good at doing brakes, because before I had a mechanic that helped us out, all my work trucks got brakes atleast once a year at inspection time. I am not a professional mechanic by any means, just a disclaimer
When you do this, keep an eye on the fluid in the brake reservoir. When you compress the caliper it will push the fluid back and can overflow easily thus making a HUGE mess. I use a turkey baster from the grocery store to drain as much as I can before messing with the calipers. Pour fresh in when you are done and you are set. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:36:30 PM EDT
[#37]
I did the front brakes in the parking lot of the cabin we rented in Ouray Co a couple weeks ago on my 2012 F250 4x4 in less than an hour. My truck only had 49K miles and one side started grinding on I70 in stop and go traffic pulling my Jeep / car hauler. I thought maybe a caliper had hung up since it had such few miles. I took it to the dealership in Durango since I really didn't want to mess with it on vacation.. but when they came back with $800 estimate I decided to do it myself. Super easy. The dealership said they are seeing brakes on F250's only lasting 45K-60K miles which I called BS on but 3 of my pads were 3/4 + worn and one had lost the surface material completely. Thought it was a fluke but my friend has the same truck only 2 months older with roughly the same miles and his did the same thing. BTW. They no longer put "squeakers" on the brakes so your first sign of trouble is when it starts grinding. Thought that was shitty.
I don't know about the 05's but if its like the '12's the rotors just slide on and off so you don't have to repack the bearings. Just be careful when you push the pistons back in on the caliper and don't push it too far and blow out the seals. I put the old pad on there and did both pistons at the same time with a big C clamp. Just take it slow and you will be fine. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line either. You should not have to bleed the brakes either. One of my rotors was ruined but was able to get it from NAPA for $95. BTW. With NAPA if you order it online and then pick it up at the store it is sometimes cheaper. Saved $10 or 15 on the rotor that way IIRC. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:44:40 PM EDT
[#38]
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When you're finished, be sure to pump the brake pedal and make it solid again before putting the vehicle into gear. This is so your brakes will work during that first stop. Qfmft |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:54:41 PM EDT
[#39]
I would google a "how-to" on your vehicle before starting, just to know any gotchas. I've done tons of brakes but that doesn't mean I know every quirk of every different car. When I was first starting out it would take me 1.5 hours to do the first rotor/pads, then 20 minutes for the other side once I knew how to do it, then 1.5 hours for the rear because of course it would be different and require a different tool or something (or, releasing the parking brake to get the rotor off
) then 20 minutes for the other side.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 5:56:04 PM EDT
[#40]
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Use jack stands. Get your favorite album on the stereo and chill out when you see how easy it is. Also, I recommend a good shandy, it is usually on sale this time of year, and it will keep you from swearing TOO much when you end up needing a 5 foot cheater bar due to rust. I cheat and put the ratchet on the cheater bar, move the jack stand under the bar, and slowly lower the car , I have a hydraulic/gravity wrench. I cannot stress how much PB blaster/wd40 you are going to use. think an entire can.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 11:22:35 PM EDT
[#41]
If you are doing rear *drum* brakes, take a pic before takings things apart. Disk brakes are super easy usually, but drums seem more complicated with springs in there and stuff.
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