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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:41:55 PM EDT
[#1]
Just watch a couple youtube videos and go for it. Just expect to take a couple hours doing it. You may not have to replace your rotors if there is still some pad life left as well. Make sure you have a nice big C-clamp handy for compressing the caliper back or get the tool.
I got really doing good at doing brakes, because before I had a mechanic that helped us out, all my work trucks got brakes atleast once a year at inspection time. I am not a professional mechanic by any means, just a disclaimer 
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:42:25 PM EDT
[#2]
Go for it. It's not that tough and with youtube the sky is the limit. Dont forget to use jack stands.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:43:20 PM EDT
[#3]
Brakes are usually about as easy as it gets.
Also, check rockauto for your parts. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:43:27 PM EDT
[#4]
If you figure out which end of a socket goes on the bolt and which goes on the ratchet, you can do brakes.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:43:39 PM EDT
[#5]
Use jack stands. Get your favorite album on the stereo and chill out when you see how easy it is.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:43:54 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Go for it. It's not that tough and with youtube the sky is the limit. Dont forget to use jack stands. This. If you are mechanically inclined at all it's easy. If you get twisted up at any point it's better to ask for help and no just hope you got it. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:44:42 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Brakes are usually about as easy as it gets. Also, check rockauto for your parts. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:44:58 PM EDT
[#8]
And don't forget to clean the anti-corrosive off the parts before you install them (mainly rotors.)
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:45:02 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just watch a couple youtube videos and go for it. Just expect to take a couple hours doing it. You may not have to replace your rotors if there is still some pad life left as well. Make sure you have a nice big C-clamp handy for compressing the caliper back or get the tool. I got really doing good at doing brakes, because before I had a mechanic that helped us out, all my work trucks got brakes atleast once a year at inspection time. I am not a professional mechanic by any means, just a disclaimer |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:45:42 PM EDT
[#10]
If the rotors are rusted on don't forget to have a Big fucking hammer.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:46:27 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If the rotors are rusted on don't forget to have a Big fucking hammer.  |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:46:44 PM EDT
[#12]
You are going to need some special tools to get the rotors off. You can resurface your rotors; you do not have to replace them. You will need to check their condition. It is recommended that you at the minimum resurface rotors when you install new pads. Although, I do know people that have gotten away with just installing new pads. It all depends on the condition of your pads and rotors.
I would recommend getting a Hayne's manual for your truck as it will help guide you through the brake maintenance process as well as general maintenance and repair of everything else. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:46:52 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If the rotors are rusted on don't forget to have a Big fucking hammer. Yep, just whack the shit out of it once you get all the bolts out. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:49:20 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yep, just whack the shit out of it once you get all the bolts out. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
If the rotors are rusted on don't forget to have a Big fucking hammer. Yep, just whack the shit out of it once you get all the bolts out. It helps to soak it with penetrating oil such as WD-40, Loosey-Goosey or others. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:49:49 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: And don't forget to clean the anti-corrosive off the parts before you install them (mainly rotors.) |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:50:27 PM EDT
[#16]
Its basically 4 bolts, common sense, and sometimes a hammer if your shits rusted.
Oh, and maybe a good C-clamp to compress the piston. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:51:31 PM EDT
[#17]
VERY easy, your husband should have it done in no less than an hour. Hell it takes longer to get the tires on/ off than to swap the brakes.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:52:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Rotors can be a BITCH if they're the kind that bolt onto the back of the hub.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:53:13 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I plan on first inspecting the brake pads and rotors once I get the tires off and anticipate replacing the pads, but at three years and thirty-ish thousand miles do you think I would be better off just replacing the rotors even if they visually look okay? I try and be proactive when I do work on my truck during the summer/fall because I dislike nothing more than trying to work on my truck during the winter (November-March) when it's freezing cold and snowing out. So I figure while I got the truck jacked up, tires off, and I'm monkeying with the brakes I'd rather change the rotors now than have to do it 6 months later in the dead of winter. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
And don't forget to clean the anti-corrosive off the parts before you install them (mainly rotors.) If your pads haven't gouged the rotors they should be fine. You don't get steering wheel shake when you brake do you? |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:53:30 PM EDT
[#20]
Check Amazon too for parts. I've found they have OEM parts for the same as the parts store brands. Also check to see if people have returned brand new parts; you can save 20-30% off Amazon's prices that way.
An unnecessary tool is a brake piston compressor; it'll press pistons back into the caliper in 1/4 the time a big c-clamp takes. Get yourself a 18-24" breaker bar too; if a shop used an impact wrench on the lug nuts you'll appreciate the extra leverage a good breaker bar provides. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:53:33 PM EDT
[#21]
With the right tools it's a pretty straight forward job for most vehicles. If you are handy with tools and have a basic understanding of cars I would say it's an easy job to do.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:53:55 PM EDT
[#22]
Get a friend to help you bleed them when you are done.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:54:15 PM EDT
[#23]
DON'T forget this part, it's very important! I can't stress that enough....
http://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/ forgot link.... |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:54:24 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If your pads haven't gouged the rotors they should be fine. You don't get steering wheel shake when you brake do you? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: And don't forget to clean the anti-corrosive off the parts before you install them (mainly rotors.) If your pads haven't gouged the rotors they should be fine. You don't get steering wheel shake when you brake do you? |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:54:36 PM EDT
[#25]
Not sure if it is needed on OP's truck, but a mustang I did brakes on required a special tool.
It was a small borg looking cube that a socket wrench extension snaped into, it allowed me to Rotate the brake caliper piston in, You cannot simply press them in like chevys. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:55:03 PM EDT
[#26]
What they all said. Do it and you will pay 1/4 of what you pay a mechanic if not less.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:55:57 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
And don't forget to clean the anti-corrosive off the parts before you install them (mainly rotors.) If your pads haven't gouged the rotors they should be fine. You don't get steering wheel shake when you brake do you? Old rotors are probably dandy. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:56:18 PM EDT
[#28]
Super easy.
Unless the rotors are pressed on...in that case, slightly harder but not bad. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:56:23 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Check Amazon too for parts. I've found they have OEM parts for the same as the parts store brands. Also check to see if people have returned brand new parts; you can save 20-30% off Amazon's prices that way. An unnecessary tool is a brake piston compressor; it'll press pistons back into the caliper in 1/4 the time a big c-clamp takes. Get yourself a 18-24" breaker bar too; if a shop used an impact wrench on the lug nuts you'll appreciate the extra leverage a good breaker bar provides. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:56:57 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It helps to soak it with penetrating oil such as WD-40, Loosey-Goosey or others. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If the rotors are rusted on don't forget to have a Big fucking hammer. Yep, just whack the shit out of it once you get all the bolts out. It helps to soak it with penetrating oil such as WD-40, Loosey-Goosey or others. Big +1. I did brakes recently, a simple exercise turned into a nightmare. the bolts were Torx T55. And completely frozen. I rounded them off and ended up replacing the entire caliper. Asked how much it would cost to fix professionally and they quoted me $200. So replacing the caliper was cheaper. I heard one advice is to heat the bolt but I just did not want to go there. The new caliper came with 18mm bolt and not Torx which is the devil. Soak everything with PB Blaster, 3 days in advance. Flood it with the stuff. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:57:00 PM EDT
[#31]
Be sure to get jackstands solidly under it if you really have to wail on the rotors or bolts. Even a heavy truck can be pushed off a jack or even jackstands pretty easily.
I try to replace rotors when I'm in there too, but you can look up the wear limit and measure the thickness. They are big hunks of steel and I've seen rotors last for many years even w/ several pad changes. You could get the rotors resurfaced but I have only done that once and never had an issue. I have an F150 and am not a pro. Double check all the caliper bolts once you get the pads in. Brakes are the most important part of your car, don't fuck it up.  |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:57:09 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: VERY easy, your husband should have it done in no less than an hour. Hell it takes longer to get the tires on/ off than to swap the brakes.  |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:57:40 PM EDT
[#33]
It can't be done. It's impossible.
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:57:42 PM EDT
[#34]
How often do you tow with it?
Usually 3/4 and 1 ton rotors are good for a really long time if you don't abuse them. 50k miles doesn't seem unreasonable for just driving around. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:57:57 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Rotors can be a BITCH if they're the kind that bolt onto the back of the hub. http://www.am-autoimages.com/partimage/BFS/AM-30407548/main.JPG Yes, yes they can. My Landcruiser is such a beast, it's not some little FWD econocar. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:58:09 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You are going to need some special tools to get the rotors off. You can resurface your rotors; you do not have to replace them. You will need to check their condition. It is recommended that you at the minimum resurface rotors when you install new pads. Although, I do know people that have gotten away with just installing new pads. It all depends on the condition of your pads and rotors. I would recommend getting a Hayne's manual for your truck as it will help guide you through the brake maintenance process as well as general maintenance and repair of everything else. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:59:17 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Get a friend to help you bleed them when you are done. Why would he need to remove the line 
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:59:20 PM EDT
[#38]
OP turn the rotors..throwing new pads on used rotors causes all sorts of issues, including worse stopping distances, pulling, overheated pads and even squeks... always turn rotors... cheapest fastest way for a home mechanic is to buy new rotors , install with new pads, take old rotors and stop, at next brake job, turn old rotors and install with new pads and store old rotors again.....
As for the brake job, its simple enough, pay close attention on tear down, clean all caliper slide surfaces and lube with synthetic caliper slide grease(get at store when getting parts), clean all rotor surfaces with brakleen before using.. inspect the entire brake system, including master cylinder, lines,and hoses, bleed system after installing new parts and make sure to bleed until clean fluid comes out bleeders..... |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:59:22 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What equipment is needed to resurface (assuming rotors are still within recommended width)? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: You are going to need some special tools to get the rotors off. You can resurface your rotors; you do not have to replace them. You will need to check their condition. It is recommended that you at the minimum resurface rotors when you install new pads. Although, I do know people that have gotten away with just installing new pads. It all depends on the condition of your pads and rotors. I would recommend getting a Hayne's manual for your truck as it will help guide you through the brake maintenance process as well as general maintenance and repair of everything else. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:59:33 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What equipment is needed to resurface (assuming rotors are still within recommended width)? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You are going to need some special tools to get the rotors off. You can resurface your rotors; you do not have to replace them. You will need to check their condition. It is recommended that you at the minimum resurface rotors when you install new pads. Although, I do know people that have gotten away with just installing new pads. It all depends on the condition of your pads and rotors. I would recommend getting a Hayne's manual for your truck as it will help guide you through the brake maintenance process as well as general maintenance and repair of everything else. It's not a DIY job, easier to take it somewhere, or just buy new rotors. I am in exactly the same boat. Was too late with replacing the brakes and the worn out brake pad damaged the rotor. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 3:59:52 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How often do you tow with it? Usually 3/4 and 1 ton rotors are good for a really long time if you don't abuse them. 50k miles doesn't seem unreasonable for just driving around. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:00:50 PM EDT
[#42]
Google or youtube your truck. One of mine had screws in the rotor that held them on that needed a whack on a screwdriver and my impact drill to break loose.
Another vehicle had nothing of the kind but the rotors were frozen or rusted on. However, there were two spots where you could screw in two certain sized bolts. By alternating the tightening, they forced off the stuck rotors. +1 on RockAuto. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:00:59 PM EDT
[#43]
Check out a few Youtube videos. Half the work is taking the wheels off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pa-FMpwpzdw I order OEM brake pads on Ebay. Usually about $35 per set. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:01:09 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What equipment is needed to resurface (assuming rotors are still within recommended width)? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You are going to need some special tools to get the rotors off. You can resurface your rotors; you do not have to replace them. You will need to check their condition. It is recommended that you at the minimum resurface rotors when you install new pads. Although, I do know people that have gotten away with just installing new pads. It all depends on the condition of your pads and rotors. I would recommend getting a Hayne's manual for your truck as it will help guide you through the brake maintenance process as well as general maintenance and repair of everything else. The kind that you take it to someone to do it.
We had a parts store in Chester, VA that used to turn rotors for free. They closed down maybe 15+ years ago. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:01:32 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What equipment is needed to resurface (assuming rotors are still within recommended width)? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You are going to need some special tools to get the rotors off. You can resurface your rotors; you do not have to replace them. You will need to check their condition. It is recommended that you at the minimum resurface rotors when you install new pads. Although, I do know people that have gotten away with just installing new pads. It all depends on the condition of your pads and rotors. I would recommend getting a Hayne's manual for your truck as it will help guide you through the brake maintenance process as well as general maintenance and repair of everything else. A trip to the parts house and around 10-15 bucks 
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:01:58 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP turn the rotors..throwing new pads on used rotors causes all sorts of issues, including worse stopping distances, pulling, overheated pads and even squeks... always turn rotors... cheapest fastest way for a home mechanic is to buy new rotors , install with new pads, take old rotors and stop, at next brake job, turn old rotors and install with new pads and store old rotors again..... As for the brake job, its simple enough, pay close attention on tear down, clean all caliper slide surfaces and lube with synthetic caliper slide grease(get at store when getting parts), clean all rotor surfaces with brakleen before using.. inspect the entire brake system, including master cylinder, lines,and hoses, bleed system after installing new parts and make sure to bleed until clean fluid comes out bleeders..... You a service writer? |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:02:49 PM EDT
[#47]
Just be sure to test brakes before moving vehicle.
After compressing brake calipers it takes a couple of peal strokes before the brakes come up hard. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:03:05 PM EDT
[#48]
Do not resurface your rotors. Either replace them or leave them alone. It will reduce the amount of material and make them more prone to warping.
With as few miles as you have I would damn near guarantee you all you need are pads. Probably only in the front, too. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:03:31 PM EDT
[#49]
Quoted:
I've got an '05 F250 superduty 6.0 powerstroke diesel FX4 that last had its brakes/rotors changed July of 2012 (new brake pads and I opted for new rotors versus having the old rotors resurfaced). I had my truck in the dealership June of 2014 for a turbocharger problem and, per their routine inspection, the brakes/rotors were "within limits." My wife tells me a few days ago she heard some squeaking when she braked while driving the truck around town. I've driven the truck the past few days and haven't heard a peep. The truck's mileage in 2012 when it got new brakes/rotors was 96,160, and today it is 135,357 - so I've put on 39,197 miles on the current set of brakes/rotors in the past three years. The last brake job cost me a hare under $1k, with parts being $700 and labor coming to almost $300. I've been teaching myself how to work on my truck and over the past five years have taken on more and more repairs/maintenance jobs. I've replaced the shocks, replaced the glow plugs and harness, fixed the 4x4 (vacuum) system, and done a myriad of other relatively easier projects (new serpentine belt, new alternator, etc.). I feel mechanically inclined enough that, with a good guide/YouTube video, I can tackle a brake job. I'd like to know, is this a job that can be done without any special tools/devices (it appears to be from the few guides I have read/watched)? What are some of the tricks of the trade that I should know before doing this job? Are there any tools that, while not required, would make this job much easier? Are there any brake pads or rotors that are better quality than the OEM stuff that I should look at? Any other advice? Thanks! I've done dozens - literally - of brake jobs. My 2010 F250 was the hardest one I've ever done. Take a look at the torque specs. You'll need some big ass tools. I ended up using a 6' cheater bar at one point. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 4:04:05 PM EDT
[#50]
If I remember correctly. Don't Fords have the lug bolts as part of the rotor assembly?
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