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Posted: 3/29/2015 7:26:36 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I blend my own out of a secret hobo recipe. So how many hobos would I need to brew up, say, 16 quarts? 
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Posted: 3/29/2015 7:29:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Phvck, my car has no engine oil, I feel so left out
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Posted: 3/29/2015 7:34:15 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is not the place for an intelligent post. Everyone wants to just brag about how much money they throw away on the most expensive special oil they can find. Traveller Oil from tractor supply. $9.50 per gallon. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Whatever is on sale. The vast majority of people neither change their oil, have avast enough fleet, or have the proper equipment to analyze the used oil to give truly informed advice. So their opinions are utterly worthless and nothing more than a popularity contest. Simply choose the oil that has the proper grade that is required for your car’s engine at the cheapest price and be done. This is not the place for an intelligent post. Everyone wants to just brag about how much money they throw away on the most expensive special oil they can find. Traveller Oil from tractor supply. $9.50 per gallon. It's $13.50 a gallon for straight 30 weight around these parts at TS. No better than Wally World 
I wonder how many here know that the lower W marked number on the side of the bottle is the actual viscosity of the dino lube and the higher number is achieved though viscosity modifiers that break down with use and reduce the protective qualities of the oil? Guess I should have advised to OP to look into what the MFG uses on commercial fleet vehicles they warranty and go with that. |
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Posted: 3/29/2015 7:34:20 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Rotella...because it doesn't matter enough to use anything $.01 more expensive. Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. |
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Posted: 3/29/2015 7:38:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Mobil 1 Synthetic
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Posted: 3/29/2015 7:49:31 PM EDT
[#6]
Delo 400 full synthetic
best additives i have found |
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Posted: 3/29/2015 7:50:01 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
My current fav is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, with a bottle of lubro moly mos2 added. Purrs and revs like a Siberian tiger. 
Pennz Plat or Pennz Plat Ultra |
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Posted: 3/29/2015 7:54:09 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For someone who knows oil, how is this Total Quartz? If it meets MB 229.5, I can use it. Is it better than Mobil 1? Enough so for me to switch? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 for gas engines. BMW LL-01, MB 229.5 and Porsche A40 spec at less than half the price of Mobil1 locally. Delo 400 for the diesels. For someone who knows oil, how is this Total Quartz? If it meets MB 229.5, I can use it. Is it better than Mobil 1? Enough so for me to switch? Better than Mobil1, I cant say honestly. I just look at the appropriate spec and see basically what it specs for, than look for an oil that meets the spec. When I found this oil and saw the price, I did a bit of additional research online and it seemed legit as far as meeting the spec goes, so I went for it. I'm not that into oils to go over the minutae like TBN, HTHS, etc between to oils that meet the spec, if they are so far apart in price from each other. I put it in a few engines (N62B46, M54B30, M112, M113, M119, M120) and they run very smooth. IMO as long as your choices meet spec I'd get the cheapest one and switch at recommended interval or even a bit earlier. For your 229.5, as long as you use the fleece filter with this oil (which you need to do with mobil 1 too), I wouldnt hesitate to substitute it for Mobil 1 to 229.5 intervals. But I personally use spec oil but change at earlier intervals than 229.5 calls for given how severe conditions are here compared to there or Europe (lots of stop and go, dirty air, tropical heat). |
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Posted: 3/29/2015 8:00:54 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For someone who knows oil, how is this Total Quartz? If it meets MB 229.5, I can use it. Is it better than Mobil 1? Enough so for me to switch? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 for gas engines. BMW LL-01, MB 229.5 and Porsche A40 spec at less than half the price of Mobil1 locally. Delo 400 for the diesels. For someone who knows oil, how is this Total Quartz? If it meets MB 229.5, I can use it. Is it better than Mobil 1? Enough so for me to switch? g300d is in the Philippines, when I read his post I looked up Total Quartz 9000 thinking it may be a deal for me. The Total Quartz is about 9 bucks a quart here in the US, while you can get Mobil1 for 23 bucks per 5 quart jug at wal-mart. So no go for me. 
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Posted: 3/29/2015 8:22:02 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
g300d is in the Philippines, when I read his post I looked up Total Quartz 9000 thinking it may be a deal for me. The Total Quartz is about 9 bucks a quart here in the US, while you can get Mobil1 for 23 bucks per 5 quart jug at wal-mart. So no go for me. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 for gas engines. BMW LL-01, MB 229.5 and Porsche A40 spec at less than half the price of Mobil1 locally. Delo 400 for the diesels. For someone who knows oil, how is this Total Quartz? If it meets MB 229.5, I can use it. Is it better than Mobil 1? Enough so for me to switch? g300d is in the Philippines, when I read his post I looked up Total Quartz 9000 thinking it may be a deal for me. The Total Quartz is about 9 bucks a quart here in the US, while you can get Mobil1 for 23 bucks per 5 quart jug at wal-mart. So no go for me. It's probably similarly expensive here in AZ as well, looks like Mobil 1 will remain my choice. I do use the fleece filter and extended service interval, almost 160k miles on my S class and still going strong. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 12:49:22 AM EDT
[#11]
I was working in a small autoshop in highschool when Pennzoil was going through their sludge troubles. I would never touch the stuff personally after all of the motors I saw coming in looking just like this one. These were people who were doing mostly reasonable OCI's too. 3-5k usually, some of it even done at our shop.
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Posted: 3/30/2015 12:58:22 AM EDT
[#12]
2190 TEP.
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Posted: 3/30/2015 12:59:17 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Rotella...because it doesn't matter enough to use anything $.01 more expensive. Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Come up to my office in north eastern Ohio. I have lab results that will make you stop believing in rotella real quick. In the application of a motorcycle, fine. Application of a heavy truck, its terrible. Probably the quickest sheering oil out there. Comparing a motorcycle engine to a 13L or 15L HDMO application isn't even in the same ball park. Sump size or not, even at 300k miles its not the same amount of hours. 300k miles on a truck engine should put the ecm hour rating around 10500 hrs. Idle time, idle time, idle time. As well, most fleets try to push extended drains. 30k miles, 50k miles... Maybe change the filters every 30k and top off... Only do full services at 90k or 120k. Completely different world then changing it every 2000-3000 miles. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 1:11:08 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Come up to my office in north eastern Ohio. I have lab results that will make you stop believing in rotella real quick. In the application of a motorcycle, fine. Application of a heavy truck, its terrible. Probably the quickest sheering oil out there. Comparing a motorcycle engine to a 13L or 15L HDMO application isn't even in the same ball park. Sump size or not, even at 300k miles its not the same amount of hours. 300k miles on a truck engine should put the ecm hour rating around 10500 hrs. Idle time, idle time, idle time. As well, most fleets try to push extended drains. 30k miles, 50k miles... Maybe change the filters every 30k and top off... Only do full services at 90k or 120k. Completely different world then changing it every 2000-3000 miles. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Rotella...because it doesn't matter enough to use anything $.01 more expensive. Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Come up to my office in north eastern Ohio. I have lab results that will make you stop believing in rotella real quick. In the application of a motorcycle, fine. Application of a heavy truck, its terrible. Probably the quickest sheering oil out there. Comparing a motorcycle engine to a 13L or 15L HDMO application isn't even in the same ball park. Sump size or not, even at 300k miles its not the same amount of hours. 300k miles on a truck engine should put the ecm hour rating around 10500 hrs. Idle time, idle time, idle time. As well, most fleets try to push extended drains. 30k miles, 50k miles... Maybe change the filters every 30k and top off... Only do full services at 90k or 120k. Completely different world then changing it every 2000-3000 miles. I saw similar results in hot running, turbo rally car motors. I used to use T6 for years in my motorcycles and race quads, but after I started doing UOA's of the rally cars it got me to switch. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 1:14:00 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
g300d is in the Philippines, when I read his post I looked up Total Quartz 9000 thinking it may be a deal for me. The Total Quartz is about 9 bucks a quart here in the US, while you can get Mobil1 for 23 bucks per 5 quart jug at wal-mart. So no go for me. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Total Quartz 9000 5w-40 for gas engines. BMW LL-01, MB 229.5 and Porsche A40 spec at less than half the price of Mobil1 locally. Delo 400 for the diesels. For someone who knows oil, how is this Total Quartz? If it meets MB 229.5, I can use it. Is it better than Mobil 1? Enough so for me to switch? g300d is in the Philippines, when I read his post I looked up Total Quartz 9000 thinking it may be a deal for me. The Total Quartz is about 9 bucks a quart here in the US, while you can get Mobil1 for 23 bucks per 5 quart jug at wal-mart. So no go for me. Yeah, I'd probably be using Mobil1 if they were not so far off in price like over there. Heck, I'd probably not even notice Total Quartz 9000 if that were the case. 
$23 for a 5qt container so that's $4.60 a quart, right? Heck, that's about the price of a quart of dino oil here! 
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Posted: 3/30/2015 2:24:12 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
My current fav is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, with a bottle of lubro moly mos2 added. Purrs and revs like a Siberian tiger.
lol. GD is awesome. so, what's cheaper, using synthetic with 10K OCI or dead dinosaur oil with 3K OCI? show your math please. ar-jedi . . still waiting for the GD advanced math. ar-jedi |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 2:47:29 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Come up to my office in north eastern Ohio. I have lab results that will make you stop believing in rotella real quick. In the application of a motorcycle, fine. Application of a heavy truck, its terrible. Probably the quickest sheering oil out there. Comparing a motorcycle engine to a 13L or 15L HDMO application isn't even in the same ball park. Sump size or not, even at 300k miles its not the same amount of hours. 300k miles on a truck engine should put the ecm hour rating around 10500 hrs. Idle time, idle time, idle time. As well, most fleets try to push extended drains. 30k miles, 50k miles... Maybe change the filters every 30k and top off... Only do full services at 90k or 120k. Completely different world then changing it every 2000-3000 miles. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Rotella...because it doesn't matter enough to use anything $.01 more expensive. Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Come up to my office in north eastern Ohio. I have lab results that will make you stop believing in rotella real quick. In the application of a motorcycle, fine. Application of a heavy truck, its terrible. Probably the quickest sheering oil out there. Comparing a motorcycle engine to a 13L or 15L HDMO application isn't even in the same ball park. Sump size or not, even at 300k miles its not the same amount of hours. 300k miles on a truck engine should put the ecm hour rating around 10500 hrs. Idle time, idle time, idle time. As well, most fleets try to push extended drains. 30k miles, 50k miles... Maybe change the filters every 30k and top off... Only do full services at 90k or 120k. Completely different world then changing it every 2000-3000 miles. Never got a bad UOA back from Rotella swapped at 3-500 Tractor hours. Is this something that has changed in the last 3-4 years? Been looking at just switching everything over to the Deere Plus 50, as it would streamline things in the shop, and cost differences would be close to nil on volume. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:02:09 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mobil 1 full synthetic |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:54:29 AM EDT
[#19]
Used Walmart super tech for ever. Same SAE rating as all the others. Worked there for 8 years and when scanned showed Exxon Mobile as
the maker. Never ever had any oil related engine problems. Or any other engine problems other than a few starters and alternators. I have had problems due to corrosion. Had a 91 Bonneville. Drove up the driveway to check the mail because I was too lazy to walk. The front end dropped out and I could spin the steering wheel to infinity. That was my daily driver too. But the motor was fine. I couldn't believe the derp over "name brand oil" when I worked there. Advertising works. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:57:42 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I was working in a small autoshop in highschool when Pennzoil was going through their sludge troubles. I would never touch the stuff personally after all of the motors I saw coming in looking just like this one. These were people who were doing mostly reasonable OCI's too. 3-5k usually, some of it even done at our shop. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/mud2-mjd.jpg Can you tell us more about the sludge problem? Never heard of it myself. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 6:52:09 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How is Mobil 1 garbage? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Mobil 1 is garbage ... AMSOIL FTW How is Mobil 1 garbage? It is not the Mobil1 of old. Same name... shitty product. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 7:33:32 AM EDT
[#22]
I use Castrol..depending on the season 10 W30 or 10W40
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Posted: 3/30/2015 7:38:36 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Never got a bad UOA back from Rotella swapped at 3-500 Tractor hours. Is this something that has changed in the last 3-4 years? Been looking at just switching everything over to the Deere Plus 50, as it would streamline things in the shop, and cost differences would be close to nil on volume. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Rotella...because it doesn't matter enough to use anything $.01 more expensive. Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Come up to my office in north eastern Ohio. I have lab results that will make you stop believing in rotella real quick. In the application of a motorcycle, fine. Application of a heavy truck, its terrible. Probably the quickest sheering oil out there. Comparing a motorcycle engine to a 13L or 15L HDMO application isn't even in the same ball park. Sump size or not, even at 300k miles its not the same amount of hours. 300k miles on a truck engine should put the ecm hour rating around 10500 hrs. Idle time, idle time, idle time. As well, most fleets try to push extended drains. 30k miles, 50k miles... Maybe change the filters every 30k and top off... Only do full services at 90k or 120k. Completely different world then changing it every 2000-3000 miles. Never got a bad UOA back from Rotella swapped at 3-500 Tractor hours. Is this something that has changed in the last 3-4 years? Been looking at just switching everything over to the Deere Plus 50, as it would streamline things in the shop, and cost differences would be close to nil on volume. Happened around 5 years ago when they changed over their naming sequence. Deere, in our AO is made by Petro Canada. Pretty damn good stuff. If you're in Michigan around lanasing, IM me. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 8:18:54 AM EDT
[#24]
LiquiMoly and Pentosin for my European cars, Mobil 1 for my American
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Posted: 3/30/2015 3:11:44 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Come up to my office in north eastern Ohio. I have lab results that will make you stop believing in rotella real quick. In the application of a motorcycle, fine. Application of a heavy truck, its terrible. Probably the quickest sheering oil out there. Comparing a motorcycle engine to a 13L or 15L HDMO application isn't even in the same ball park. Sump size or not, even at 300k miles its not the same amount of hours. 300k miles on a truck engine should put the ecm hour rating around 10500 hrs. Idle time, idle time, idle time. As well, most fleets try to push extended drains. 30k miles, 50k miles... Maybe change the filters every 30k and top off... Only do full services at 90k or 120k. Completely different world then changing it every 2000-3000 miles. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Rotella...because it doesn't matter enough to use anything $.01 more expensive. Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Come up to my office in north eastern Ohio. I have lab results that will make you stop believing in rotella real quick. In the application of a motorcycle, fine. Application of a heavy truck, its terrible. Probably the quickest sheering oil out there. Comparing a motorcycle engine to a 13L or 15L HDMO application isn't even in the same ball park. Sump size or not, even at 300k miles its not the same amount of hours. 300k miles on a truck engine should put the ecm hour rating around 10500 hrs. Idle time, idle time, idle time. As well, most fleets try to push extended drains. 30k miles, 50k miles... Maybe change the filters every 30k and top off... Only do full services at 90k or 120k. Completely different world then changing it every 2000-3000 miles. What diesel oil do you recommend? |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 3:36:05 PM EDT
[#26]
Pennzoil 10W-30. Used nothing but it in my last 3 vehicles.
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Posted: 3/30/2015 3:48:38 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Come up to my office in north eastern Ohio. I have lab results that will make you stop believing in rotella real quick. In the application of a motorcycle, fine. Application of a heavy truck, its terrible. Probably the quickest sheering oil out there. Comparing a motorcycle engine to a 13L or 15L HDMO application isn't even in the same ball park. Sump size or not, even at 300k miles its not the same amount of hours. 300k miles on a truck engine should put the ecm hour rating around 10500 hrs. Idle time, idle time, idle time. As well, most fleets try to push extended drains. 30k miles, 50k miles... Maybe change the filters every 30k and top off... Only do full services at 90k or 120k. Completely different world then changing it every 2000-3000 miles. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Rotella...because it doesn't matter enough to use anything $.01 more expensive. Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Come up to my office in north eastern Ohio. I have lab results that will make you stop believing in rotella real quick. In the application of a motorcycle, fine. Application of a heavy truck, its terrible. Probably the quickest sheering oil out there. Comparing a motorcycle engine to a 13L or 15L HDMO application isn't even in the same ball park. Sump size or not, even at 300k miles its not the same amount of hours. 300k miles on a truck engine should put the ecm hour rating around 10500 hrs. Idle time, idle time, idle time. As well, most fleets try to push extended drains. 30k miles, 50k miles... Maybe change the filters every 30k and top off... Only do full services at 90k or 120k. Completely different world then changing it every 2000-3000 miles. It suffers a very short life span because of the poor shear stability. For some reason the customers LOVE it despite this. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 3:49:26 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Mobil 1 full synthetic |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:15:06 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Its nothing fancy. Not one of the cool kid FJ40's. I call her the turd wagon.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s72/Kanatii/2012-01-28_16-36-18_387.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
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I use the high quality, boutique stuff in my "race" car, and my old Landcruiser. Both are abused pretty much the entire time they are running, and both have flat tappet heads and need much more zinc than is included in today's SM/SN oils (yay EPA!). pics of Cruiser?  Its nothing fancy. Not one of the cool kid FJ40's. I call her the turd wagon.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s72/Kanatii/2012-01-28_16-36-18_387.jpg Nice... It that a 3FE? I just recently took the plunge, with an FJ80... 
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:17:14 PM EDT
[#30]
Rotella T6
/thread |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:21:52 PM EDT
[#31]
I've used Pennzoil since I was a kid. Put way over 300k on my first vehicle and the engine was still running fine. Even using Fram filters.
I have since moved up to Purolator PureOne for filters but I still use Pennzoil (5W30, 10W30 and 10W40) in everything 4-stroke except the Harley, which gets Rotella 15W40. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:27:09 PM EDT
[#32]
Whatever that is on sale that isn't Mobil 1 (usually castrol or valvoline). Noticed a reduction in valve train noise after switching away from it.
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:31:43 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Rotella...because it doesn't matter enough to use anything $.01 more expensive. Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Rotella may be fine in cycle engines that run a lower RPM. IE Harley, goldwing, a thumper, but Personally I feel better running something that doesn't have friction modifiers to cause clutch slip, plus its not exactly meant for an engine spinning 16k. Ive tried a few and castroil 4T seems to be my favorite. Clutch feel and shifting is improved IMO. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:37:34 PM EDT
[#34]
Wolf's Head Brand
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:38:45 PM EDT
[#35]
I treated my engine with Slick 50 so now I don't have to use oil in the motor.
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Posted: 3/30/2015 4:51:10 PM EDT
[#36]
Everyone saying rotella isn't that great, what do you find is working better?
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Posted: 3/30/2015 5:07:06 PM EDT
[#37]
Whatever is synthetic, on sale, and meets dexos 1 requirements..
So pretty much always Castrol Syn or Mobil 1 Syn  |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 5:58:26 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can you tell us more about the sludge problem? Never heard of it myself. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I was working in a small autoshop in highschool when Pennzoil was going through their sludge troubles. I would never touch the stuff personally after all of the motors I saw coming in looking just like this one. These were people who were doing mostly reasonable OCI's too. 3-5k usually, some of it even done at our shop. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/mud2-mjd.jpg Can you tell us more about the sludge problem? Never heard of it myself. it wa back in the day when the yellow dino pennzoil bottles contained wax in the oil. that has since been fixed. only other way i have heard it getting this bad is when they don't change their oil in +30k miles. with my old truck it had a lifter tick and usually went away after oil changes. but after so many miles it would be back. pennzoil platinum lasted the longest out of all the other main brands so thats what i have been using. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 6:05:19 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It is not the Mobil1 of old. Same name... shitty product. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Mobil 1 is garbage ... AMSOIL FTW How is Mobil 1 garbage? It is not the Mobil1 of old. Same name... shitty product. And your proof is where.....? |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 6:43:59 PM EDT
[#40]
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Rotella may be fine in cycle engines that run a lower RPM. IE Harley, goldwing, a thumper, but Personally I feel better running something that doesn't have friction modifiers to cause clutch slip, plus its not exactly meant for an engine spinning 16k. Ive tried a few and castroil 4T seems to be my favorite. Clutch feel and shifting is improved IMO. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Rotella...because it doesn't matter enough to use anything $.01 more expensive. Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Rotella may be fine in cycle engines that run a lower RPM. IE Harley, goldwing, a thumper, but Personally I feel better running something that doesn't have friction modifiers to cause clutch slip, plus its not exactly meant for an engine spinning 16k. Ive tried a few and castroil 4T seems to be my favorite. Clutch feel and shifting is improved IMO. Rotella T6 does not have friction modifiers and is JASO rated for motorcycle |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 6:59:10 PM EDT
[#41]
Amsoil not esther. The Additive packs are probably esther products.
Amsoil is a PAO......... Group IV -Chemical Reactions: Group IV base oils are chemically engineered synthetic base stocks. Polyalphaolefins (PAO's) synthetics, when combined with additives, offer excellent performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. They have very stable chemical compositions and highly uniform molecular chains. Group IV base oils are becoming more common in synthetic and synthetic-blend products for automotive and industrial applications. The future belongs to the Group IV basestocks (AMSOIL Synthetic Oils are Group IV Polyalphaolefins). Group V - As Indicated: Group V base oils are used primarily in the creation of oil additives. Esters and polyolesters are both common Group V base oils used in the formulation of oil additives. Group V oils are generally not used as base oils themselves, but add beneficial properties to other base oils. Note that the additives referred to in the Group V description are not aftermarket type oil additives. The additives referred to are used in the chemical engineering and blending of motor oils and other lubricating oils by the specific oil company that produces the finished product. Quote HistoryQuoted:
i use them in my tranny and difs because of the longer intervals. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Group 5 Esther based synthetics only for me. Motul, AmSoil, Brad Penn, Redline I run UOA every few changes just to check the health of the motor. i use them in my tranny and difs because of the longer intervals. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 6:59:54 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Rotella may be fine in cycle engines that run a lower RPM. IE Harley, goldwing, a thumper, but Personally I feel better running something that doesn't have friction modifiers to cause clutch slip, plus its not exactly meant for an engine spinning 16k. Ive tried a few and castroil 4T seems to be my favorite. Clutch feel and shifting is improved IMO. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Rotella...because it doesn't matter enough to use anything $.01 more expensive. Rottella T is all I used in my Yota pickup from 270,000 to 450,000 miles, I ran it in 5 different motorcycles with wet clutches, that's where a shitty oil would show its colors. I had 28,000 miles on single-jug TTR250, with nothing but Rotella and it's still going (sold it to a friend). That's good oil, period. There's a guy on my Vstrom forum with 300k on a DL1000 running nothing but Rotella. That's like dog years to a big sump truck or passenger cars. Rotella may be fine in cycle engines that run a lower RPM. IE Harley, goldwing, a thumper, but Personally I feel better running something that doesn't have friction modifiers to cause clutch slip, plus its not exactly meant for an engine spinning 16k. Ive tried a few and castroil 4T seems to be my favorite. Clutch feel and shifting is improved IMO. The reason me and oodles of other motorcycle owners swear by Rotella is we did the research, figured out that it's equal to most any motorcycle oil, and we have the Blackstone tests to confirm it's up to the task...and does not contain friction modifiers (the API label is right there on the back, but you can google it and see that it's a well-tested, well-used oil on high compression bikes and is JASO rated). I ran it in a VFR and a SV1k too. Great clutch feel, no issues ever. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 7:05:45 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wolf's Head Brand |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 7:42:12 PM EDT
[#44]
Mobil1 EP 5W30 or Mobil1 0W40 they are great oils
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Posted: 3/30/2015 7:56:07 PM EDT
[#45]
I use Rotella T6 15-40w in my 300zx, that pushes more boost then stock. By the forums, it supposedly has a little more zinc in it the most other synthetics and my engine was designed for zinc. Sure its a little pricey, but with oil and water cooled turbos, I think the extra $~2 is worth it. Besides the car only takes 3 5/8 quarts with filter.
Also I dont feel like taking apart the head to fix the damn lifter that ticks, and Rotella keeps it quieter then any other oil I've tried. |
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Posted: 3/30/2015 8:24:00 PM EDT
[#46]
Rotella T6 in the '08 Cummins. 146K & counting.
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Posted: 3/30/2015 11:11:36 PM EDT
[#47]
In to hear the answer to the Rotella substitute.
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Posted: 3/31/2015 1:08:43 AM EDT
[#48]
My wife told me I needed to put more oil in her 2013 Chevy Equinox because she said "The car only has 15% oil left!!!!!!"
 She can't tell the difference between the oil level guage or even using the dip stick versus a calculated timer in the cars computer....FML Computer says by the way' "XX% Oil Life Remaining". |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 8:31:37 AM EDT
[#49]
Oh I forgot.
BITOGBITOGBITOGBITOGBITOGBITOGBITOGBITOGBITOGBITOGBITOGBITOGBITOG |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 8:34:56 AM EDT
[#50]
Super-Tech full synthetic.
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