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Dremel with cut-off wheel.
Grind a slot in it. Use a screwdriver. ETA-OUCH! |
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Dremel with cut-off wheel. Grind a slot in it. Use a screwdriver. ETA-OUCH! View Quote Looks like there's already a slot, but it's mangled. This will work, though - just grind the new slot perpendicular to the existing. If it's Loctited and there's no plastic around, torch it first. |
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fabricators may not have been the best choice....
This is firmly in the defabrication area... |
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Many of those screws are loctited from the factory, Apply heat. I sure do hope that isnt the receiver thats all marred up.
Im guessing this is a VZ with the stock folder? |
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fabricators may not have been the best choice.... This is firmly in the defabrication area... View Quote Lol... didn't think about that Also even if I was able to put another slot for a screwdriver in their it wouldn't come off The dunk monkeys at century arms anodized the entire gun assembled... it really stuck on there |
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Drill a hole into the middle of it, make sure the hole isn't bigger than the actual OD of the screw you're drilling into.
Thread that hole. Original hole size needs to correspond to the tap size you want to use for the threading here. Use the most permanent loc-tite imaginable. Red loctite should work just fine. Apply to screw that fits the threads that you just made, screw that in. Let Loc-Tite cure. Use the new screw to loosen the old one. Edited to ad: I've also welded nuts onto things like this to remove them, but this can be destructive, you have to be very careful with the grounding because of arcing, and it requires specialty equipment. The above method is the easiest way to do it because the only specialty tools you need are a common household drill, drill bit and tap of appropriate size with a matching screw size, and loc-tite. |
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Damn dude thats pretty mangled.
Weld (TIG) some material back onto the screw and try to get it off with some vice-grips when its still hot. Or drill it out and use an EZ-Out |
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Create a new slot. Heat up the area, which should help break the Loctite.
Get a screwdriver that fits right. If the screwdriver has a hex nut on it, make sure you use a wrench to turn the screwdriver. It will increase the leverage. If not, use a set of vise grips on the screwdriver. |
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Try this from Amazon
In the review section, there is a video of it in action. I've used it before. It does work. |
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Tig a nut on the screw then take off with appropriate sized wrench.
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Drill the head of the screw off, 2 sizes larger than the hole in the middle of the screw, this should leave a conical shaped "bolt" end. When it pops loose grab the rest with vise grips and remove stubborn screw.
Send check or money order to... |
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Welding a nut looks like a good option... I don't have a tig welder, my dad has a flux core. Do you guys think that will work?
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Quoted: Create a new slot. Heat up the area, which should help break the Loctite. Get a screwdriver that fits right. If the screwdriver has a hex nut on it, make sure you use a wrench to turn the screwdriver. It will increase the leverage. If not, use a set of vise grips on the screwdriver. View Quote If it still won't budge, carefully punch the exact center of the screw. drill it out slightly smaller than the bore size of the screw, so mostly just the threads are left with maybe a 32nd left. you should be able to get it out easily from there with a screwdriver or small chisel slightly bigger than the diameter of the hole you created. |
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No. TIG is a must. Drill it out and use an EZ-Out is your next option without TIG. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Welding a nut looks like a good option... I don't have a tig welder, my dad has a flux core. Do you guys think that will work? No. TIG is a must. Drill it out and use an EZ-Out is your next option without TIG. I disagree. Drill a hole, thread that hole, red loc-tite in a screw, let loc-tite cure, remove all. If this method doesn't work, the screw you loc-tited in will probably come out. When it does, you can still try EZ-Out. But if the EZ-Out option doesn't work, you can't go back and thread very easily, depending on the existing screw depth. |
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I disagree. Drill a hole, thread that hole, red loc-tite in a screw, let loc-tite cure, remove all. If this method doesn't work, the screw you loc-tited in will probably come out. When it does, you can still try EZ-Out. But if the EZ-Out option doesn't work, you can't go back and thread very easily, depending on the existing screw depth. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Welding a nut looks like a good option... I don't have a tig welder, my dad has a flux core. Do you guys think that will work? No. TIG is a must. Drill it out and use an EZ-Out is your next option without TIG. I disagree. Drill a hole, thread that hole, red loc-tite in a screw, let loc-tite cure, remove all. If this method doesn't work, the screw you loc-tited in will probably come out. When it does, you can still try EZ-Out. But if the EZ-Out option doesn't work, you can't go back and thread very easily, depending on the existing screw depth. They do make left handed taps.... |
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heat first. soak in kroil or breakfree. cut a deeper slot for a huge flathead
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If you have access to welder , weld a nut on . Stack another nut on and weld the sides . Thread a bolt in as far as you can and weld it on . Use a tool with centered pressure like an air impact with the pressure cranked way down to where it just bumps a little . A wrench like ratchet or a box/open allows for too much lateral pressure and makes it easier to crack the weld . A battery powered impact can work too , just be easy with it . Might take more than one attempt . Heat is your friend here .
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Drill the head of the screw off, 2 sizes larger than the hole in the middle of the screw, this should leave a conical shaped "bolt" end. When it pops loose grab the rest with vise grips and remove stubborn screw. Send check or money order to... View Quote This is a good option, provided there is enough of the screw to grab onto. Otherwise, you now really screwed yourself. |
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Welding a nut looks like a good option... I don't have a tig welder, my dad has a flux core. Do you guys think that will work? No. TIG is a must. Drill it out and use an EZ-Out is your next option without TIG. I disagree. Drill a hole, thread that hole, red loc-tite in a screw, let loc-tite cure, remove all. If this method doesn't work, the screw you loc-tited in will probably come out. When it does, you can still try EZ-Out. But if the EZ-Out option doesn't work, you can't go back and thread very easily, depending on the existing screw depth. They do make left handed taps.... Drill hole, use LH tap, put a bolt in it, use a breaker bar to get it off.... that seems like a good option |
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Welding a nut looks like a good option... I don't have a tig welder, my dad has a flux core. Do you guys think that will work? No. TIG is a must. Drill it out and use an EZ-Out is your next option without TIG. I disagree. Drill a hole, thread that hole, red loc-tite in a screw, let loc-tite cure, remove all. If this method doesn't work, the screw you loc-tited in will probably come out. When it does, you can still try EZ-Out. But if the EZ-Out option doesn't work, you can't go back and thread very easily, depending on the existing screw depth. They do make left handed taps.... Which works better, but sometimes left handed taps can be extremely hard to find depending on location. Usually any hardware store will have the required equipment to do all of the above. AND with the right handed threading kit you purchase there's a better chance it will be useful in other projects down the line. I've had horrible luck with EZ-Out type extractors. |
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Drill hole, use LH tap, put a bolt in it, use a breaker bar to get it off.... that seems like a good option View Quote If you can find a LH tap, that is absolutely your best DIY option. If you can't, RH tap with loc-tite is the easiest. Unless you've got access to welding. I've used stick and mig in similar situations, but there's a chance you arc and seize up the folding mechanism somewhere if you aren't careful about it, among other things. Can't be sure without seeing more of the piece. |
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Welding a nut looks like a good option... I don't have a tig welder, my dad has a flux core. Do you guys think that will work? View Quote No. Welding won't work because it's probably 7075 aluminum, which doesn't weld easily. Just drill it out with the largest diameter drill you can without hitting the internal threads - then remove the remnants with a pick |
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Heat it up to release thread locker then use a left handed drill bit....
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Is this the thread where I learn to properly stake a gas key?
Holy shit OP, you reckon that will buff out? |
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Use a soldering iron to heat it up, then use a wide flat blade or impact wrench to loosen it.....I have removed a few of these from CAI rifles..
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lookin good op, you're almost there. just keep at it with the air hammer and punch
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Looks like there's already a slot, but it's mangled. This will work, though - just grind the new slot perpendicular to the existing. If it's Loctited and there's no plastic around, torch it first. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Dremel with cut-off wheel. Grind a slot in it. Use a screwdriver. ETA-OUCH! Looks like there's already a slot, but it's mangled. This will work, though - just grind the new slot perpendicular to the existing. If it's Loctited and there's no plastic around, torch it first. Using a soldering iron to pin-point the heat on the screw has worked for me in the past. (when a torch is not an option) |
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Do most gun smiths men have a tig welder... I am kind of hesitant to leave a gun with anyone else View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Tig a nut on the screw then take off with appropriate sized wrench. Best answer Do most gun smiths men have a tig welder... I am kind of hesitant to leave a gun with anyone else Yes, yes they do. |
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I personally would drill it out and use a tap to re-thread the hole if it was needed. Failing that, try heating it up to release whatever glue they've used in there.
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Have you tried just standing there and cursing at it yet? Give that a try.
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Any hole you drill use a left hand drill bit. often times just drilling the hole can back out the screw and no need to tap or use an EZ out
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Tig a nut on the screw then take off with appropriate sized wrench. Best answer Do most gun smiths men have a tig welder... I am kind of hesitant to leave a gun with anyone else Yes, yes they do. Uh not really. Most people don't have a use for a tig welder. Very few people tig weld on a regular basis unless you're in the fabrication business. Only reason I have one at my shop is to weld aluminum pipe. MIG is better for 95% of situations. But In this case drilling and tapping is a much better DIY approach, as most people have a drill they can use. A hand tap/die set isn't too pricey either, where as a decent tig set up is 2k or more. |
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Looks like there's already a slot, but it's mangled. This will work, though - just grind the new slot perpendicular to the existing. If it's Loctited and there's no plastic around, torch it first. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Dremel with cut-off wheel. Grind a slot in it. Use a screwdriver. ETA-OUCH! Looks like there's already a slot, but it's mangled. This will work, though - just grind the new slot perpendicular to the existing. If it's Loctited and there's no plastic around, torch it first. Not to hijack this thread, but the above post is a great example of why this is such a great place. People like me, who often don't know what to do, can ask here...and more often than not, somebody's BTDT and has an efficient method of solving the problem. In fact, this is a great thread with great solutions. |
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